questions about nyle l200m room plans

[forrestM]

hello, and happy 4th of july!

I am making progress on my kiln - have a spot dug out, gravel down and 2" of blue foam on top of that. I'm getting ready to build my forms and am going to set those right on top of the blue foam. I figured that would give me 1.5" of foam hanging out past the concrete on the bottom of the slab, and i could slide some foam down against that when i put it around the sides. i'll have 1.5" meeting 2" of foam at the bottom corners, but will that be ok?

also, i would be smart to add a little space for storing stickers, and could pour a little pad next to the kiln room pad. if i decide to do that, is it sufficient to thermally separate the two slabs with 2" of blue foam, on edge, in between them?

thanks,
forrest

will post some pictures soon.

[K-Guy]

is it sufficient to thermally separate the two slabs with 2" of blue foam, on edge, in between them?

That's fine. The biggest thing is to make sure they can't come in contact with each other. 1" would also work.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

A little extra size on the slab will help when unloading the kiln and you need to store the lumber for a few days before unstacking and getting the lumber under satisfactory dry conditions so it does not regain moisture.  Often this dry lumber shed is where stickers are stored.  To prevent insect infestations, keep the shed free of wood debris and any lumber that you did not dry yourself.

[forrestM]

pouring tomorrow! 


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[forrestM]

At this point I am all framed up (except for the doors), and I'm going to start fitting my polyiso in between my studs. If I end up with gaps between the stud and the insulation, do I fill those with some kind of spray foam like 'great stuff' or just put foil tape over the gaps? or do nothing, because another 2" of poly iso will be overlapping it? 

If i am to spray foam the gaps, what kind of foam am I looking for?

also, I am planning to do board and batten siding, and will be nailing 1x6 horizontal girts to fasten to. This would increase my air gap from 1-1/2" to 2 - 1/2"   ---  is it ok to have that much of an air gap?

will update pictures soon.

THANKS!

[K-Guy]

9' deep x 22' long foot seems ideal for 2 stacks side by side.

That is only deep enough for one stack, you need space for airflow. Plus it would require more fans, even with the extra fans it would not be ideal. The l200 system has been designed with a kiln chamber only one stack deep. You would be better off going higher with extra fans.

[YellowHammer]

If the DH unit takes up about 2 feet from the inside wall.  Then there should be an air gap at least 18" from the intake of the DH unit to the stack of wood, so that's 3.5' taken.  Then on the other side of the stack, there should be at least 18" to the wall, so that is 5' minimum of unusable space for wood.  Considering that a normal wood stack is 4' wide, that come to a minimum of 9' of inside chamber depth required for a single width pallet of lumber.  



  

[forrestM]

I think I might be able to phrase that question a little better -- i am talking about the air gap between my two 2" layers of polyiso and the back side of my studs within the wall. the nyle plans call for one 2" layer of polyiso to be fit between the studs and then another 2" over top of that layer. since the 2" of polyiso is form-fit between the 3 - 1/2" stud we get the benefit of 1-1/2" of air gap. I am adding a 1x6" horizontal girts around the outside of my framing to nail board and batten siding to. This would increase my air gap to 2 -1/2" 

I'm just wondering if that is ok, or if an air gap has some point of diminishing returns that would make it detrimental.

Also wondering if I need to tape or spray foam any gaps where the form fit poly iso meets the studs - and what material would be best for that.

thanks,
forrest

[K-Guy]

@forrestM 
Call me at 800-777-6953 Ext 212 to discuss this. 

[scsmith42]

Stan, Gene, et al,

I'm curious if anyone has successfully experimented with insulation on top of the kiln slab, either in addition to or in lieu of insulation under the slab.

My thought process is that insulating on top of the slab would theoretically save energy costs by not having to heat up the slab.

Plus, with the relatively shallow depth of a 200 series kiln, you may not have to drive a front end loader on top of the insulation, thus damaging it.

Thoughts?

Scott

[WDH]

Actually, on my L53 Chamber, I built a joist floor on top of the sealed concrete slab and insulated between the joists.  Then I put down a polyethylene vapor barrier and on top of that treated 1/2" CDX plywood and sealed the seams with high temp silicone caulk. 

[YellowHammer]

I tried but did not make a good vapor barrier, so the moist hot chamber air got under the insulation and condensed out as large quantities of water on the cold winter concrete floor, actually under the insulation.  It was a total mess.  

So WDH's technique of sealing with a vapor barrier is critical.

That's why I now resort to just pouring Kool Seal on the floor and flooding it.  

[K-Guy]

I'm curious if anyone has successfully experimented with insulation on top of the kiln slab

Some will do this if the kiln chamber on a larger than it concrete pad to prevent the heat bleeding out of the kiln through the pad.

[forrestM]

Just got some metal on the roof today, right before the rain. Will have to go back up there and finish screwing it down. Coming along.... slowly! Got the poplar board and batten siding drying in there now. Went with 7/8" for the siding.
Why are all of my pictures upside down?  (Not any More.  Admin)




 

[forrestM]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[forrestM]

Progress pictures. Getting closer, but a lot of details yet to be addressed. Ordered my gasket for the doors today. Got the doors insulated but haven't finished the vapor barrier and plywood for them.