Finishing kitchen utensils

metalspinner · December 12, 2008, 07:40:40 AM

I spent yesterday morning sawing out a bunch of cherry spatulas to hand out as gifts to my cub scouts last night. They did a great job cooking a big pot of chili last week, so the earned a nice little something for their efforts.

Anyway, because I didn't start this little project until the morning they were to be passed out, I used mineral oil. I warmed the mineral oil up in a big pan, then let the spatulas soak for about an hour. After draining, they looked as dry as when i put them in. :-\ Then I followed this up with a coat of bee's wax at the buff. Needless to say, this was not a museum quality finish. :

However, we all still a have a couple of weeks before Christmas, so how should I finish the next 20 or 30 I make? Can Mineral oil and wax make a nice looking finish?

Fla._Deadheader · December 12, 2008, 08:07:25 AM

Cherry has oil in it. If you boil them, the water will turn red. Might not be the best for a "user" utensil ??? We use a white wood for spoons.

Burlkraft · December 12, 2008, 09:09:17 AM

Quote from: metalspinner on December 12, 2008, 07:40:40 AM
Can Mineral oil and wax make a nice looking finish?

Yes ;) ;) ;)

Mineral oil has been my finish of choice for quite a while now. I have a burl bowl that I did for Pasbuild that I used mineral oil and wax on. I usually soak the piece until it won't take oil anymore, wipe dry and let sit for a couple a days. Then I waxed and buffed it with a goblet buff on the lathe. This one turned out pretty good ;D ;D

Don't worry Bob.......I will send the bowl :D :D :D

metalspinner · December 12, 2008, 10:46:10 AM

QuoteI usually soak the piece until it won't take oil anymore

About how long did that bowl soak? Just trying to get an idea so I can procrastinate just long enough. ;)

FDH,

The cherry was the piece of wood that happened to be closest to the bandsaw when I had this idea. ;D I'll have to dig in the pile for some maple to make as many as I need for Christmas.

Burlkraft · December 12, 2008, 11:19:03 AM

Quote from: metalspinner on December 12, 2008, 10:46:10 AM
QuoteI usually soak the piece until it won't take oil anymore

About how long did that bowl soak? Just trying to get an idea so I can procrastinate just long enough. ;)

That burl was pretty dry, it took 3 days I think

pasbuild · December 12, 2008, 06:19:58 PM

I knew that bowl was in that burl somewhere, Thanks fer findin it Steve its beautiful

Sprucegum · December 12, 2008, 06:31:35 PM

Melt you beeswax into your mineral oil, about a dozen shavings in a cup of oil, hit it a couple taps with the microwave and apply while still warm. Quick and simple - in case you procrastinate a bit tooo long ;)

thedeeredude · December 13, 2008, 09:15:27 AM

I have some stuff from Holland Bowl Mill, I think its mineral oil and beeswax mix. It's easy as pie and looks great too.

bee's oil

Dodgy Loner · December 14, 2008, 12:08:47 AM

I use linseed oil. It's not a fine finish either, but it works. I like it because it dries, whereas mineral oil does not. By the way, I have read all the warnings about not using linseed oil on objects that contact food, due to the use of lead as a drying agent, but those warnings are now moot because lead is no longer used as a drying agent ;D. I just knew somebody was going to correct me if I didn't add this disclaimer. Somebody probably still will ;).

SwampDonkey · December 14, 2008, 06:31:55 AM

I use linseed also Dodgy. In school, we was taught to use it on bowls for food right from the start even band saw blade bread knives. ;D

woodsteach · December 15, 2008, 01:29:22 PM

Quote from: SwampDonkey on December 14, 2008, 06:31:55 AM
I use linseed also Dodgy. In school, we was taught to use it on bowls for food right from the start even band saw blade bread knives. ;D

Lets see a pix of the band saw blade bread knife. lord knows I've got quite a few broken band saw blades from the kids.

Paul

SwampDonkey · December 15, 2008, 02:40:10 PM

Yea bread knife. ;)

Lud · December 16, 2008, 11:54:59 PM

I think multiple coats of mineral oil may be better than the soak. After all, the old quote was "once a month for a year" for treatment of woodware.

I also like the quote that "the first scratch is a tragedy, the 1000th is a patina."

woodsteach · December 19, 2008, 12:55:27 PM

thanks sd for the bread knife pix. Did you regring the teeth or just use them as is.

A student brought in a magazine and it said to use walnut oil or flaxseed oil for food safe finishes. I'll see if he still has the magazine next week.

metalspinner · December 19, 2008, 01:34:15 PM

Thanks for all the tips, guys.

Seeing as I still have 7 days till Christmas, I still have plenty time to decide on the finishing technique. I'm leaning toward melting a bit of wax in with the mineral oil and letting it soak or just wiping on many coats.

Woodsteach,
I used walnut oil and bees wax on the last bowl I completed. It turned out really nice. And the smell was out of this world. You just need to watch out for the nut allergy crowd with giving or selling these things.

SwampDonkey · December 19, 2008, 04:06:36 PM

Quote from: woodsteach on December 19, 2008, 12:55:27 PM
thanks sd for the bread knife pix. Did you regring the teeth or just use them as is.

I just used as is, it's bread your cut'n not wood. Keep the blade oiled with veg oil or mineral. ;) I haven't used mine in years because I'm not a big bread eater and I don't bake it if I don't eat much of it. ;) Store bought bread is mostly what I use, pre-sliced now. The darn stuff never spoils. :

Quote
A student brought in a magazine and it said to use walnut oil or flaxseed oil for food safe finishes. I'll see if he still has the magazine next week.

Huile de lin is French for flax seed oil, thus linseed oil. I think it's boiled or something. A few of the fellows on here mentioned the process. I can't seem to recall exactly. Anyway, I was always told it was food safe and I ain't died from it yet. ;)