Enclosed Trailers: Tips and tricks? Outfitting?

[Old Greenhorn]

So last week I bought a 6x12' enclosed trailer for doing shows and I know there are a lot of folks here who either have or had one. I also know there are a lot of folks here who are sharper, smarter, neater, and more creative than me. I am busy with another aspect of my business, but show season kind of starts next month and I need to get the trailer outfitted for use and ready to go. I haven't had time to get into it yet, except to register it.
 At first I was concerned about shelves, tie-downs, and packing layouts. But then I started looking at it and played that game many of us know "well, before I do that I really have to to this, and before I do this, I should really have to do that." So where I thought I would start is actually where I will end up now. Shelves and that stuff will be last.
 This trailer has aftermarket boat trailer fenders on it, installed incorrectly. Just looking at them is driving me crazy. It ain't right. Well to change the fenders out I need to pull the inside wall paneling. OK, here we go. As long as that paneling is out I might as well put some rigid foam insulation in there before I put the panels back, and oh yeah, I have to change some wiring, need to do that too while the panels are out. I ordered a 3 bay surface mount switch for the new LED lights. As long as the panels are off I should replace the loosened sheet metal panel screws with nuts and bolts. It's going to go on and on, I know. I also know there is a limit I have to put on it. I will have to go over the bearings and order some spares and look for a dedicated properly fitting jack and important stuff like that. I will be re-doig the dafety chains, they are a mess. Might change the front jack too. 
 So today I took some time while I let my back repair and pulled the inside panel on one side to see how this is built. It seemed like a hundred gazillion screws.  That allowed me to see where and how the original fenders looked. So I ordered those and a few other things. Today was just 'discovery' as the lawyers say. I also learned I don't care for the trailer rocking around as I work in side and was thinking about adding some very simple drop leg stabilizers.  Then I might add a small battery with a small solar panel to keep the battery up so the lights work whenever I need them This all got me thinking, and finally my question:

 What have you folks who have or had these rigs done to make them work for you? What worked, what drove you crazy, what do you find an oddball solution for that worked out great? What did you always wish you had done, but never got to it? Anything you could share with a newbie would be appreciated a great deal.

[sprucebunny]

First thing, I waterproofed the floor. Then I put waterproof carpet on it. Then I put plastic panels over the panelling. 
Haven't used it much.

I bought it to haul my tracked ATV but it's ended up another storage area.

[Andries]

Tom, you can call me a too practical Dutch guy, but here's how I would go about it.
I - get your new set of wheels roadworthy. Are the bearings in good shape, bearing buddies needed? fix up those safety chains, do all lights work, is the roof waterproof, is there any dry rot in the wheels or do they look like they need to be replaced? You're already doing the fenders – good man.
II - have an 'oh shyte' spot near either the rear door or side door. I like to keep my spare tire out of the sun and away from knuckleheads. Get a hydraulic jack that's rated for a fully loaded trailer and have some blocking so that you can get it under one of the axles. A long harbour freight breaker bar with a deep socket for the Lugnuts. It's going to be appreciated on a rainy, dark night. Fire extinguisher? Road flares? . . . and all in one sacred spot. "Don't touch" signs all over it.
III - get some big and some small load straps, some movers blankets, and some bubble pack. Maybe one or two of those freight truck pogo sticks that stabilize loads. I see you on the road going from one craft fair to another and I'm pretty sure that in short order you'll have figured out all of the gizmos and gadgets that it'll take for you to get your stuff in and out. Like a good quality two wheel loader.
IIII - have some fun and pimp out your wheels with LED lights, solar panels, Forestry Forum stickers, Woody woodpecker smoking' a cigar stickers and flames coming out of the new fenders.
Happy trails buddy!

[Larry]

My trailer came with stabilizer jacks, can't imagine being without them but my trailer was 10' and maybe a different balance point. The jacks were not the nice screw type but some kind of sliding lock. I'm sure they were probably the cheapest ones but they worked fine and did the job.

For craft shows most of the stuff was packed in nice big tubs. All the same brand and they sorta locked together when stacked. I thought about tie downs but never got any. To keep the load from shifting we tried to make sure we had a full layer of tubs, wall to wall. If not I had some of those cargo jacks to keep everything in place. Harbor Freight sells them now, but have never really looked close at them. They probably would slide under hard braking or a sudden maneuver. At one time I put some shelves in it with deep bins which was fine for some items.

The most important thing I did to it was add decals of a Razorback Hog herd to the back door. Go Razorbacks!

 

 

[Old Greenhorn]

Thanks fellas, even stuff I have already thought of is helpful to hear from others so I know I am thinking straight. Yes, thought of the 'roadside disaster kit' and right by the door too. In fact, as I jsut walked back in the house from freezing my butt cheeks together helping my son swap out the Fuel tank selector switch on the side of the road in a blowing snow with 30 MPH winds, yeah, that experience, which I have had personally too many times is always present in my mind. I do everything I can to make it as easy as possible, so I am planning on extra bearings sets in that kit as well as the tools for the job. If it's all laid out, it's pretty easy, if you don't have what you need, it's a long sordid story. So yes, all the running and safety gear is first on my mind, that's a no brainer. Mostly I hope for short drives but I have a market in VT that I would like to try and that's 2+ hours at highway and interstate speeds. I am also considering doing the LogRite  open house which puts me on CT interstates with some tire eating potholes, another 2.5 hours each way. I just don't know if I can be ready in time for that. I want my best foot forward for that one. I still have a lot of product work to get done too.
This trailer has a nice rubber floor, I ain't gonna touch it. The roof and walls are sound, but a lot of joints need tightening up so that they stay tight. So really I just have to pull all the inside panels and do it right, once.
All good ideas. Keep 'em coming.

I don't know if there are any FF stickers left, but I would love to have 3 for it, but at least one on the right side. Yeah, I'll think about the others as I go along. Right now I am focused on safe and (very) functional.

[21incher]

When we used our  little trailer for moving from Poughkeepsie to up here the big thing we needed  for furniture was cushioning between the items. There are always corners  sticking  out that will rub on something when strapped together. We found some of the old mattress toppers made from foam that I cut up to pad between items and also walls. Also some white styrofoam packing sheets with higher density they usually toss out at places like home depot when unpacking the tool chests. If you have torsion axles things don't bounce much but with springs you probably will need to strap to the floor anything behind the axle. Be careful  of stickers because the minute our boy put one on his 6 x 12 he used for landscaping  the DOT took notice and he had to get DOT stickers on his F150 pulling it. Before stickers he  never  was pulled over. 

[Old Greenhorn]

His stickers had his business name on them, correct? Yeah, I'm not doing that. Just some general stuff like anybody might put on their car windows. No business name or advertising.

[21incher]

His stickers had his business name on them, correct? Yeah, I'm not doing that. Just some general stuff like anybody might put on their car windows. No business name or advertising.

Yes, a small name and phone number sticker on both sides of the trailer. Actually in the end after getting  DOT numbers,  he wound up getting a 4 door jeep wrangler with passenger plates to pull it because insurance companies don't like personal commercial plated trucks with DOT numbers on them. He just did it on the side for a couple years.

[Ron Scott]

Easily reachable fire extinguisher inside access door. 

[Resonator]

Been a few years since I used a small cargo trailer for jobs, one thing that stood out I think I'd improve on is the inside paneling. They use the thinnest plywood they can get by with, I would upgrade to a heavier sheet at least a 4' up on the sidewall. This would not only be less likely to break if it gets hit with anything you're hauling, but would also be a solid surface to put screws into.

Over the years of driving semi trucks I pulled just about every type of trailer there is at one time or another, one summer I worked for a household goods mover. Their trailers had something like an E track down the sides that they would put crossbars in and lay plywood over to create a shelf level. This was called the "OS" rack (overhead storage), any lightweight freight would get loaded there, while keeping the trailer floor open to heavier freight. You could probably rig something similar with 2x4's or angle iron.

For padding old quilts and blankets work, I've seen old couch cushions used too. And keep the carboard and bubble wrap handy too.

As far as load securement I would probably add tie down points and use ratchet straps in your application. Also you might want to get a load bar (extendable pipe with padded ends) to fit your trailer. You might be able to find an old one from a semi and cut it down shorter to fit. If you've got any specific load securement questions let me know, I've hauled everything from very high dollar electronics loads to live honey bees in boxes.

[reride82]

I recommend the E-track tie downs on the walls and D-rings in the floor. I have an 8x20 enclosed trailer that is used to move family and friends, tool trailer for remodels, and is presently used as a mobile storage. I have a mobile work bench that straps/clamps to the E-track that has my sliding miter saw mounted to it. I have wheels on the work bench so once it is unstrapped from the trailer I can wheel it out to make room for the next task. I also have a pair of shelving units that holds totes that are also on wheels so I can wheel them out when not in use. Each shelf has a lip to keep the totes in place during transport. It has 12v interior lights that work when it is hooked up to the truck and I also wired it for 120v AC and have a 100' heavy duty extension cord on a spool for power for tools.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yup, no company info on my trailer, just some 'artwork'.
 I always have an extinguisher on the truck, but yeah, one just inside the door is a great idea. I'll take one of the three I have on the Mule and move it over to the trailer.

 This rig already has 1/2 plywood on the walls, so it's pretty solid and the d-rings are screwed through that and into the steel wall ribs. I have removed one side wall completely now getting ready to do the fenders. The 'trim strip covering panel joints are trash and were just stapled on with 1/4" staples. I plan on making something I little nicer out of hardwood maybe. After I do the fenders and a couple of other things under the panels, I will stick in some 1" rigid foam board then put the panels back on and repaint probably. Then start hanging d-rings, hooks, makes shelves, etc.

 I have decided against the E-track. It does really suit my needs at this point. That might change and I might put it on the floor. Keep in mind this will not be packed like a moving van and chock full, but the stuff can't get nicks, dings, or rub marks. That is the kiss of death for me. I have a lot of straps and such and will buy more, but the actual packing plan will have to wait until all the other work is done and I can start messing with it. I also have lots of moving blankets, and can get more. Figuring out the plan will take a day or to with my stuff in there. It might be best to put my benches in the with one standing on it's feet and the next one upside down on the first with to moving blankets between them, then one strap over the middle to two d-rings on the floor. I'll start with that idea anyway. Tables will have to go upside down on a moving blanket, that will use a bunch of floor space so I have to thin. k on that some more. Perhaps having the tops strapped against the wall might work. Time and testing will tell.
 Keep the ideas coming, I roll them all around in my head to see how they fir and I have quite a ways to go yet. I don't have much time to work on it now, I just grab a few minutes here and there. As soon as I get through harvesting season I will really get into it.

[Old Greenhorn]

I have a question for all you trailer users. Please don't laugh at me. I have ordered new bearings for mine, just to start clean, not knowing how many miles are on the current ones, and plan to install them before I really put any miles on it.
 This is a stupid question, but when y'all change out bearings 'just because' do you press out the old races and press in new ones? or do you use the old races if there is nothing wrong with them? I think I already know what y'sll will say and I am not even sure why I am thinking of using the old races, just thought I would ask. I read Sawyer Ted's tale of woe about his trailer, and it made me think a pre-emptive bearing change is a good idea.

[21incher]

I always change  both. There's a reason they come as a set. I got a set of the drivers at harbor freight pretty cheap that helps with the races and seals. You might get away with just using the old ones, but not worth taking a chance. Get the race cold and hub hot can make it slip together easier. 

[SawyerTed]

I do new races if I'm working at my shop where I have the tools for a complete job.  On the side of the road, if I can get the trailer home on the old races, I do.  The same forces wearing on the bearings are wearing on the races too.  

Sometimes i will replace the hub with pre installed bearings and races.  That was my repair in my "woeful saga" with the camper.  New bearings with seals and races were in the $30 range.  A new hub, with bearings and seal, $126.   Not an inexpensive way to go with a drum brake hub but sometimes the difference between new bearings and a pre packed idler hub isn't so much.  

I've been pulling trailers for 40 years and never had a complete bearing failure like the one on Sunday.  I have  bearing sets for the other 3 spindles.  I'll have too change them out before June. 

[peakbagger]

Consider putting some solar panels on the roof, a charge controller with low voltage cut off, a battery and a small inverter for some 120 V. For even less you can get USB chargers that hook directly to a solar panel for cell phones. Kind of nice to have some power on occasion if you are at a fair.   

[Old Greenhorn]

21, I have never felt the need for the bearing tools, don't even know if I could figure out how they worked. Either a good ball peen or lump hammer and a brass punch has been enough to git 'er done, sometimes the arbor press in the shop, I have even used a drill press spindle as an arbor press. These are small simple bearings and I have never had the need for heat. Maybe I'll take a look at those tools. You have the $40 set?

Ted, that's a great idea, never considered it. Glad I asked a stupid question. If I start doing more distance driving, I will definitely add a hub to the kit. Anybody that has done a highway roadside repair in the full dark with trucks flying past will attest to the fat that getting it done quickly is a big help and might save your life. The hub assembly for mine is only 50 bucks (no brakes).

 PB, that is definitely in my plans but I hadn't thought about 110v, I figured all 12v. A phone charger port would be real handy at shows where one can sit all day fiddling around. My rough plan was a 12v battery (haven't picked a size yet) mounted inside someplace, a maintainer (have no clue what to spec out, and a solar panel to keep it up (again, I have no clue about sizing and interconnections on these). I would like to keep the cost as low as possible. Mainly it is for the interior lights and not too much else. I might go with a garden tractor battery and down the road might add a line to the charger from the truck harness to charge while I am driving. Any specific suggestions here from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I did add a 110v power entry port for when it's at home or I might have power available, or I might get one of those quiet 3kw generators someday.

[SawyerTed]

You might consider wiring a charge circuit from your tow vehicle to you trailer house battery.  Campers have a charge circuit through the 7 pin plug.  That way house batteries are topped off when you disconnect the trailer each way. 

Between that and a little NOCO battery maintainer,  house batteries will stay charged. 

A little 12 volt marine fuse block and ground block would be a good idea if you are wiring lights, charge ports for phones etc. Those would make adding circuits or diagnosing problems much easier. 

[21incher]

I just have a cheap set I bought from harborfreight.com back in the 1990s. About 1/4 thick stepped aluminum plates with a handle.  I think they were about 7 bucks. I worked with an old Irish  master mechanic when young and was corrected when driving in races with a big socket.  I was told never  hit a race with  steel. Always use wood, aluminum,  or brass. Could  be an old Irish lore but I listened. 
There are some nice solar generators available  now at decent prices if you just need intermittent power. Nice because they can be carried indoors  during  power outages to keep essentials running . Some use battery chemistry that is good for 80% capacity after  4000 charges. A couple peel and stick solar panels on the roof will keep it charged. Only good for above  freezing temps though.  Better then dealing with exhaust fumes at a show should  the wind change direction.  

[TroyC]

I recently put electric brakes on my trailer. To make the wiring simpler I got a harness that consisted of the round 7 pin truck plug that feeds into a junction box that mounts on the trailer frame. The original trailer wires then connect inside the junction box.  The box has studs/nuts to connect all the trailer wires and they are all labeled so it makes it neat and tidy. This setup would also offer the battery charge connection as mentioned above. Put a fuse in the camper battery wire and you're all set. It worked great for me, harness with box and plug was $20-25 from the on-line supplier.

[doc henderson]

HF actually carries a line of solar stuff.  I would consider a deep cycle battery.  Might have room on the tongue if you do not have propane.  I agree with a plug for 110 V and a small trickle charger.  the solar could be used to keep the battery charged for use and to keep from freezing.  you could get a stand up one to use for other things and keep it detachable.  have to stow it for travel.  but then you can position it into the sun at a 45⁰   angle.  Some say the big truck batteries are cheap for the amp hours, but I do not have first-hand knowledge about that.  then and inverter/ charge station of r phones and tablets ect.  prob get an all-in-one inverter with a variety of outputs.  I like that you are fixing up stuff that needs it and the way you want.  the big thing I see over the years, is the person who lets the little thing go, has a junky looking rig.  all the little things add up, and then does not seem like it is worth it to fix.  fix things as you go.  if you plug in at home and do the 7-pin plug to charge while driving, you may not need the solar.  knowing where you live, you may get sales due to idiots thinking you are saving the world with one solar panel.    sounds gratifying.  carry on.

[peakbagger]

The maximum USB wattage is 15 watts. A 50 watt panel in full sun will probably supply enough power to charge a cell phone. No need for a battery  Amazon.com: DC 12V 24V to 5V 6A 30W Dual USB Female DC Buck Converter Adapter Step Down Charging Module : Electronics As long as the sun it out you are good.

When you get into 120 VAC then its more of a challenge as you need to match a battery to its planned usage and charge rate. I am going to skip lithium options that get more complicated.  A deep cycle battery is a good option. You need a charge controller between the panels and the battery to make sure you do not overcharge the battery and in this size they include a device called a Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) that shuts down the load if the battery gets drained too low. It still is beating on the battery but far less than not having one. One of these Morningstar controllers is a solid rig that last forever.  Amazon.com: Morningstar SunSaver 10A PWM Solar Charge Controller 12V Batteries LVD, Solar Panel Controller Battery Controller Solar Controller 12V, Lowest Fail Rate Charge Controllers for Solar Panels : Patio, Lawn & Garden I picked up a used on ebay for $30 last year. Lots of chinese charge controllers out there but not very reliable.

As for inverters, there are all sorts of cheap small ones out there. 

Home Depot and many other places sell 100 Watt panels. Mount them on the roof facing up making sure you waterproof the holes in the roof, yes you can get more power adjusting the angle of the panel to match the sun but in this case, keep it simple. A panel on the roof of a trailer is less prone to damage than on the sides. If you are in Hail area, I would suggest covering them when not in use. 

As long as you leave home with charged battery and charge it up when you get home that battery will last a long time. 

[Ljohnsaw]

I'd stay far away from HF solar stuff from personal experience.

I got a Renogy controller for my camp trailer and have been very happy with it. I use a physically small panel that I found on the side of the highway. It's 180w, IIRC, and is less than half the size of the 3 panel 45w HF setup I started with.

[SawyerTed]

For an enclosed trailer, adding solar beyond a portable battery charger seems like a complication.  But that's not compatible with our standing rule to spend other people's money indiscriminately.   

I vote for a small inverter type dual fuel generator.  They are pretty inexpensive, extremely quiet and clean if run on propane.

[doc henderson]

and can be used for lots of other stuff after you have one.

[21incher]

I use a Renogy panel and 2 of their 100ah AGM batteries  with a cheap 15 dollar Renogy controller for the lights in my pole barn. Everything was less then $400 on prime day. Was using a modified sine wave garage sale inverter for several years now.  Just picked up a 1200 wat pure sine wave inverter for sensitive electronics during blackouts we are seeing.
 
Had free lighting for 5 years now compliments of 
If it wasn't below freezing out there at times,  I would go with Lithium batteries.  The new inverter will also handle power tools. Fun to play with stuff like this that is always on when needed.
 Getting ready to convert my wife's golf cart to Lithium with solar panels. Will save $7 a month on the electric bill for the lead acid battery charger plus $3 a month on distilled water.

[Resonator]

Speaking of spending other peoples money...
It is interesting to see what they have available now for "solar generators". They are pricey and do require enough battery backup, but never need fuel or engine maintenance and are supposed to last for many years. The only real requirement is clean solar panels facing the sun (even on cloudy days it is able to get at least some charging).
One of the Youtube channels I follow put one in a boat, hooked up the solar panels, and ran an electric trolling motor off it. Said if he wanted he could go as long as he wanted, and never have to stop.

[peakbagger]

At many shows I have visited, gas generators have been banned or limited to one area. Solar is not.  The all in one generators are just batteries integrated with inverters that allow solar panels to be plugged into them. They are good rigs but pricey if someone just wants to charge a cell phone.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well yes, you guys have fallen into the 'spend other peoples money' habit pretty quick. Some of you seem to think I have a bunch of bucks sitting around I need to get rid of before they get too old. Some of you think inexpensive is anything under $500..
I am cheap frugal and I think in terms of ROI. This is a trailer that gets used for shows, and on rare occasions, maybe some other thing. It's also my inventory storage. I do not have plans for running a mobile entertainment center or anything along that line. I need the lights to work in the trailer and possibly charge a phone or two. Maybe plug in a tablet or something. I also may put an electric jack on the front, but just because I have it on hand. The generator would not be used for shows, they don't want them and neither do I want to listen to it all day. But it's an option I will keep open for other uses.

So my basic plan is a deep cycle battery which should easily handle 2 days at a show whiteout needing charging. I am thinking one with 1000 MCA (Marine Cranking Amps) is more than enough. That should handle the jack and run the lights for a very long time. Now, since I have a 110v port on the trailer. I can put a small battery maintainer in there for when it is parked at home and not really being used. I MIGHT also add a solar panel to charge it when 110v is not available, But I can do that later. I was just trying to understand it and figure out what that would require. If I have that large battery in there, it should handle the load just fine and over time, the solar panel should help keep it up. Sound reasonable?
So with today's gloriously miserable weather I decided to work in the trailer for a bit. I finished closing up the passenger side wall with insulation and the plywood. Then I moved everything out of the way and pulled off the front wall panels. That's when I hit the 'all stop' button. Apparently this trailer had taken a hit on the front right corner and two of the center right beams (from top to bottom) were caved in about an inch. They did a good job of putting new panels on the outside and making it look good, the plywood inside sort of covered up any deformity, but they did nothing to straighten out the ribs, which would have been a LOT easier with the skin removed. It's not too bad, and I just might leave it as is, to fix it right means removing the outer skin again, making straightening jigs up and probably reweld a bit of it. Not something I have time to get into, but now I know why those sheet metal screws are all loose on the outside in that corner, That, I will have to fix, but not on a dark and stormy day. But wait! There's more! So the spare tire is held on the front of the trailer with a big eyebolt that goes clear through that wall. In looking at it, I had thought that of course there would be something substantial inside the wall taking the load from that bolt. Nobody would be foolish enough to just drill a 1/2" hole all the way through the wall and skin with no structural support would they?! Apparently, they would and they did. Not only did they do that, they did it TWICE! The second eyebolt (both have the eyes on the inside of the trailer) is on the same centerline of the trailer and about 5.5' off the trailer deck. These two eyebolts were point out to me as a great place to attach a come-a-long to drag heavy stuff into the trailer. If you did that, you would pull the nose of the trailer inside out. Who does that?! Plus, nothing was sealed and I can see the water stains. I also found that where the wiring harness comes in under the front wall is a huge hole. At highway speeds I can easily see how water will come in through that hole. Then there is the wiring. Between the plug and the inside of the trailer there are 3 different wires patch together and it is a flat 4 pin plug. The safety chains go from chain, to coil cables, and back to chains again. ARRRGGGHHH! SO all that has to be cut out and redone properly. In short, that front wall is going to be opened up for a while whilst I fix all this stuff. I don't want it perfect, but I do want it safe and right. Also, I don't want to do it again. As the wall is open now, now is the time to do it and be done. Oh, and lastly, I found a roof leak in a back corner.
With all the trips I made back and forth to the shop cutting and fitting insulation, grabbing tools, etc. I got pretty soaked. I am on my second jacket of the day and my socks are wet. My new boots were supposed to arrive today but apparently not.
It still beats the heck out of sitting in a conference room arguing about chart colors.

[doc henderson]

yes, plug it in at home, but also can run a hot from the truck and to the battery in case you go from show to show.  sounds like you will be doing wiring anyway, so go with a 7-pin plug, and wish you lived close, I have about 4 of those new.  they go to a plastic box for connections.  does it have the little brake battery?  in case of disconnect?  

[SawyerTed]

On "house" batteries, those used for lighting etc in boats and rvs, Reserve capacity is important versus cranking amps.  High cranking amps don't always equal reserve capacity. So look for the reserve capacity rating when shopping for a battery.

If you find one battery doesn't last through a show, you can always add a second one in parallel.

Those little NOCO onboard battery chargers (auto type not marine) are $40 ish.

[doc henderson]

remember you could have a mount for a screen or tv to show the videos at the shows.

[TroyC]

A deep cycle 12 v battery from Costco ( little over 100) and a small 120V inverter inside your trailer should do fine. I use the HF 12V trickle chargers (sale price about 7.00) on batteries at home and they work great for maintaining batteries at rest. Another thought is a portable jump start box (anywhere from 80-400) with USB outlets for charging phones/tablets. I recently got one from Sams's club for 80.00 and it not only jumps vehicles but it has usb ports for charging stuff.

I'm frugal (not cheap) also. The battery, HF trickle charger, and jump box could be done for about 200.00. Spend more on the jump box and you can get one with a 120V inverter built in. Some of the jump boxes will charge from your vehicle as you drive. That would certainly last a few days for a show without breaking the bank.

[Old Greenhorn]

Ted, thanks for the tip on that reserve capacity thing. I am seeing a difference between batteries with the same  marine cranking amps. I still don't understand the difference between marine cranking amps and cold cranking amps. Now I have no idea what RC even is. What does that number represent?

 I don't ever recall saying I was thinking about an inverter for this unit but OK. I MAY add one down the line if I can think of something to use it for. My plan was for a battery (inside), running to a terminal strip so I can just add stuff as it comes later. Also a trickle charger/maintainer. What I can't figure is how long that battery would last running an inverter, but it's a back burner thing for now. Gotta fix and close in the wall and run the basic wiring and close up leaks.
 Hampered today by heavy rain and back pain, but I made some progress.

[TroyC]

The RC (reserve capacity) rating tells you how long you can use X amps (slow discharge) before depleting the battery. The cranking amps tells you how much current the battery can provide for short cranking burst. Starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are designed differently on the insides. For your trailer a deep cycle battery (higher RC rating) would be better than high cranking (starting or normal car battery) amps. On an RV (or any other application) that uses 4 6V (or 12 V deep cycle) batteries, it is not a good idea to drain the batteries very low. Can't remember, but seems like 40% is the low end of discharge to prevent lead/acid battery damage. Just replaced my 4 RV batteries, they were 7 years old.

An idea for some cheap bling- the 12V LED stick-on strips use very little juice. A strip down the center of your ceiling would light the whole trailer insides. You could get fancy and creative, many of those cheap (15.00 or so) strips have a remote that will change the light color, flash the lights, etc. You could enhance your exhibits with the lights. I use the green strips for making underwater shrimp lights. I can run 4 strip lights (homemade) for 4-5 hours and the car battery I use is still over 80% when I get home.

[doc henderson]

I would definitely use led lighting.  you spoke of 110 volts but must have only been wondering about input to maintain the battery.  marine batteries are better for continuous use like a trolling motor or lights ect.  CCA is more for a lot of energy needed to turn over a motor for a short period of time.  Many of the little electronic things can be used for things other than your show and this trailer. 

[SawyerTed]

RC is a measure of time the battery can operate at 25 amps before dropping to 10.5 volts.   

Here's an article about RC.   I just bought two with 210 RC meaning 210 minutes at 25 amps before one reaches 10.5 volts.  By adding two batteries in parallel, I should have 420 minutes at 25 amps.  That's a lot of continuous draw.  

https://www.relionbattery.com/knowledge/what-is-battery-reserve-capacity#:~:text=Commonly%20referred%20to%20as%20RC,before%20dropping%20to%2010.5V.

[Log-it-up]

old Greenhorn
If you have a welder, weld a bead of weld all the way around the inside of the old races usually they fall right out, soak a rag with water and put in side the hub to keep the splatter out, throw the new ones in the freezer the night before easier installation 

[TroyC]

I use this chart in the camper so as to know when to charge the batteries. Depleting them below 40% will shorten their lifespan. I think the battery monitor applies a small load when checking voltage.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401414/calculate-battery-state-of-charge-percentage&ved=2ahUKEwjkpcWuhIyFAxUzkIkEHTbHB_MQFnoECD4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw3cXMAW1R-yFk7YZrmyGojY

[Old Greenhorn]

See now this is why it pays to ask questions you think you already know the answers to. You (I) learn a lot that I never thought of. Thank you, this is all good stuff.
 Working backwards through posts here:
Troy, thanks very much for that I will add a little voltmeter to the power panel (as yet undefined) and I already printed out that chart to post next to it. Very helpful. I once bought a Die Hard deep cycle batery as the 2nd battery on a truck I had. After that truck died, I used it when I took my HF ham radio out portable or mobile. It was great fun tooling along the interstate and chatting with a guy in England of New Zealand. But I just put it on a charger once a week, never really checking. That radio (100 watt output) would draw a full 20 amps on transmit, but only 2 or 3 on receive. I got a lot of years out of that battery.

 Also thanks to you and Ted for the math on this RC thing. I like numbers and formulas that can tell me clearly where i stand. This is a big help.

 Log-it-up, I have never had much difficulty doing these little bearings and I don't have a welder I would trust myself to do that with.  But if I ever get one that's stuck, I can run down the road and do just that. Handy tip although it does tend to render the race as scrap and you couldn't use it as an emergency backup, which I sometimes do when I change them out a bit early.

 Doc fortunately I already have plenty of lighting in there. I have four 12" long led strips, one in each corner that run off the house power and two smaller dome types that are in the ceiling along the center line and run off the truck power. Working out there yesterday in the driving rain with the door closed I had no problems seeing what I was doing. It's actually pretty nice. I have no plans for improvement on that score.

 As for the overall wiring plan, I am still working that out. The actual trailer wires are all inside the walls and I will leave them there, but for the stuff I add, whatever it is, I may go for surface mount so it's easy to modify and a little 'load center type box mounted on the wall so it is easy to add wiring and switches, volt meter, etc. I still have time to thing on that whilst I figure out the front wall work. I have a new 7 blade plug harness in my shopping cart along with a terminal box so I can re-do that whole connection mess from the truck to the trailer. I have held off placing the order in case I find something else I need (like a volt meter).

 Thanks guys.

[gspren]

Have you considered a fold down bunk on one side in case you need an emergency nap? You're not getting younger.

[TroyC]

Might want to get a regular '12 volt battery capacity meter' instead of a voltmeter for inside the trailer. The voltmeter is great for troubleshooting.

The meter has a pushbutton for checking status. Something like this, Amazoo, about 9.00.

DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V 84V Golf Cart Battery Meter with Alarm, Front Setting and Switch Key, Battery Capacity Voltage Indicator Battery Gauge Acid and Lithium ion Battery Indicator (Green)

[doc henderson]

maybe a food truck opening so your staff can offer you a cup a coffee.
I like the push button, so you are not draining the battery when not needing a reading.
How bout a spotlight that can project an image of a two-man whip saw into the sky, to attract customers to the night shows you may do?             now there, we are bordering on ridiculous.  it would be cool. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Gspern, I have thought about it but that would interfere with ' the primary mission ' . I have a couple of those military style fold up cots which will work just fine if the need arises. So I am good there.

Troy, I didn't know those exist! I had already ordered a volt an amp panel meter. So too late. But no, I went and found one on fleabay and ordered that also. You can never have too many gages. I just can't let myself buy anything from amazoo, There are just so many reasons against it. But yes, it is a great place to find stuff. Then I look for it elsewhere and often it is a lot cheaper, sometimes not though. I just realized that I ddn't look to see if the ne I bought had a push button or was always on. Dang.

Doc yes, you are well over the top here, but an interesting idea none the less. I don't have any plans to do night shows though, and I don't have a staff, just a one man show.

EDIT: ARRGGHH! No button. Guess I should ut a switch in the circuit.

[doc henderson]

you can always wire a switch on and off and do the same, as you well know.

[21incher]

Another thing that I use for remote lighting are my Dewalt and Milwaukee batteries.  I get adapters on Amazon and the cheap off road flood lights that are rated for 12 to 36 volts. Just pop in a tool battery and you get good light for a couple, hours. No need to buy batteries,  just use what you have. Adapters are made for just about  any brand.  I even put one on my granddaughters power wheel cart and boy did that speed it up 

[doc henderson]

21 what is the paper/chart in the background.  and speaking of numbers, where does you handle come from.

[21incher]

21 what is the paper/chart in the background.  and speaking of numbers, where does you handle come from.

here's a really old video showing the cover 

It's my magnetic table saw cover.  When I joined the only thing I could think of quickly was the size if my saw. It's a 21incher. HFE 21  .

[doc henderson]

cool, thanks!

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I spent most of the day on the trailer today. I fixed a separation in one of the front panels, fished off the front wall insulation, cut off that mess or a wiring harness, put the new plug and cable in. Installed the front wall paneling, them the break out box and wired in the cable and reconnected it to the trailer wiring. Then I realized I forgot to run a wire from the hitch to the inside for the electric jack. Dang! Oh well, I figure that out when I get to it. I looked at finishing the inside curved corners. They used 8" wide flashing before. I thought it was too narrow. So I ran up to home despot and got some along with screws for it and some other stuff. When I came back, I backed up to the trailer so I could test the lights. Well, they ain't working right at all.  I am sure I missed something switching form a 4 pin flat cable to a 7 spade round plug. I was too tired at that point to start messing around with it. I hate these things. It's like trying to find the bad bulb in a Christmas light string. At least that break out box will make it easier to swap wires.
 The new bearings arrived today, no rush on that. I can put in a couple of hours on it tomorrow, then I have to move onto other stuff.
 It always something, but I am making progress.

[Old Greenhorn]

Sunday I put in a few more hours. I found out that there are two (or more) standards for 7 pin trailer plugs: SAE or RV. Messing around with color codes soon proved to be a waste. I knew I had the ground right, so I took off the other trailer side wires, turn on the left turn signal and tried the tried one wire at a time until they worked and I screwed that down, then did the right turn wire, then did the running lights. All good to go. Then I wrote it all down. Turned out it matched the 'RV Standard colors'.
 Then I went and finished the other inside corner with the flashing material. Lastly I consolidated tools, parts and cleared out junk, swept it then vacuumed up all the little Styrofoam chips (I HATE those) Also worked on the spare tire mount up. Next on the list is laying out the front wall shelves and trying to match that curve. I am also thinking about how I am going to wire all the extra doo-dads.
 Rain, snow, sleet, freezing rain, and other assorted goodies coming in for the next few days. Guess where I'll be.

[Resonator]

Always good to have "rainy day work" to keep busy when you can't do outside work.
And when you build it yourself, you know how it was done, no cuttin' corners.
(Except all that rounded part on the front of the trailer).

[SawyerTed]

Trailer lights are like women.  They are among the great mysteries of the world.  Except trailer lights aren't nearly as much fun!   

Trailer lights are very simple wiring and nothing complicated but can be frustrating at times. 

They are among the things that have lots of time to contemplate how to break when not being used

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I have to say that the break out box was a huge help with making it easier. Simple to switch terminals. Once I gave up on trying to crossmatch the colors codes based on the standards and just took one wire and tried it on each of the open terminals, it got easy. BUT I was working alone and the box is mounted inside the trailer near the floor. So I was down on my knees moving wires, then get up and out of the trailer and walk around to look. 'Nope, that ain't it', then go back in and repeat on the next terminal. Lots of up and down, in and out. But eventually I got it. Unlike Christmas lights, I don't have the option to throw the whole thing out and buy a new one.
 Res, there is ALWAYS something to do here. I thought I would be on the trailer all day, but now it seems I have to go load the truck and head an hour north to make a delivery. I'm trying to beat the rain as they have moved it forward by 6 hours now and increased the predicted amount. It STILL beat all heck out of sitting in a conference room.

[doc henderson]

Trailer lights are like women Ted, gotta keep them grounded.  

[hedgerow]

I have a habit good or bad on used trailers all the wiring and lights come out and all new goes in with lights and wiring you find in the big rig industry. Then I never work on those lights again. Just hookup and roll. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, I haven't dropped this project and I ain't finished it neither.  I have lots of other things taking priority, but I make headway when I have some time (rain days). However, I am quite anxious to get this back on it's wheels, so to speak.
 So this week I built the shelf unit go on the front wall and painted it. That sits in the shop until I get the inside of the trailer re-painted. The walls are white, which I like, but they have a lot of scuffs and I just figured this is the only and right time to re-paint before I start bolting things in it. I also need to do the wiring before I put the trim work on/in. I also have to make that trim work.
 But I have ben doing little things, like thinking this wiring out. I ordered a digital panel mount voltmeter, ammeter and Reserve charge meter to mount in a box yet to be designed. I found some switches and terminal blocks I can use for that enclosure also. I bought a small 110v battery maintainer for when it's plugged in and off the truck hookup. Then I started working on the schematic sketches and realized I should have some USB charging outlets, so I ordered those today. Lastly, I had to get a new battery for the mule today, so I also got a deep cycle for the trailer. (That makes 3 batteries this week for about $500.00 wholesale, geez Louise!) SO I did something today anyway.
 I keep forgetting to get paint when I am in town, gotta do that soon. I can paint almost any dry day.

 So yeah, I'm still working on it, but it's funny how 'clean it up a little' turns into all this work to get it right, or at least at a good string point. Some stuff I see and just can't let it go, I have to fix it. Show season is right at hand. I gotta get on the stick pretty quick, which means getting the log harvest season in the rearview mirror ASAP.

[doc henderson]

usb are 5 volts and you could get a cigarette lighter plug at any auto parts place and then plug in any 12 v accessories, including phone chargers, inverters etc.  

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, I am still working on this thing but I haven't made the progress I had hoped. Things are going embarrassingly slow. I can't say why, but there are a ton more little details that take time I didn't expect, and this is not going to look like a show piece, I just want it to look decent, so I am not being fussy. The wiring I thought would take a day is now going on parts of 3 days as I figure things out. It's not done yet. I still have to make the panel and box. But I did make the terminal busses and install them, also wired in the gages, the jury is still out on the reserve capacity meter. It gives me a voltage and I don't see two that helps. Also put on a combined amp and voltmeter. Installed 2 pairs of USB outlets. One on each side of the person door.
 I got some trim finished up and put just two pieces up. I think I am ready to install the brown front shelf during the next session. I also ran a wire for a backup light that this trailer lacks. I'll find the light and install it later, but the wire is there under the trim work. Not sure how much I will need it, but I think it's the proper way to do things. I am going to use a general spread LED fixture because I like to see what I am backing into. 
 The inside paint is also done, a nice blue color. $2.00/qt for 2 quarts of nice quality Behr paint was a great seal, so I took it and still have a little lees than a quart left. The battery is in and temporarily hooked up, the battery maintainer also. I am waiting for the shelf to go in before I pick a home for the battery. I bought a strap to keep it where I put it.
 My artwork arrived, I will put that on during  nice weather day. I also ordered some banners for shows that I can hang on the side of the trailer during the show, so I have to add some hanger points for those. I still have to do the wheels bearings, but I can put that off if I need to.
 Still a mess of work to do, but if I get the shelf unit in, clean up and close in the wiring, I can finally finish the trim work, then begin putting in side shelves (conventional brackets and install), setting up spots to strap in the usual tables and canopies and begin moving stuff in and figuring it out.
 Some things I've already learned: I am glad I went to a full 7 blade hook-up for the trailer. This gives me the 12v line to charge the battery as I drive and also the backup lights. If I ever add brakes, that wire is there also.

[beenthere]

Making progress. When is the first show to break out the "new" trailer? 

[Old Greenhorn]

Well tonight I signed on for a show on 4/27. We will see how it goes. Only a 20 minute drive but the organization seems a tad flaky. I'll call it a test run and be happy if I make table.

[Old Greenhorn]

Since the log harvest is pretty much done and the rain has moved on (for the moment) I was excited to have the day yesterday to work solely on the trailer (pretty much). Seems like I run to town for 'stuff' for this thing every other day, or more.
 The front shelf got put in sometime since Friday, painting is pretty much done (touch ups left yet) and I cleaned it out. Battery is tied down to the floor properly and that wiring is neatened up. I have yet to start working on the electrical panel, but that's not holding me up. Everything is wired and just hanging there.
 So, after cleanup yesterday the goal was to figure out how I am loading and securing everything. I started working on ideas while trying to keep as much of the floor open for last minute items and getting in and out.

In the photo above, taken from the side door, you can see the front shelf on the right (mostly junk and tools now), then my 2 tables (just got the second one yesterday) is strapped to those, then the first bench is strapped to the wall and blanketed. After that going left are 4 more benches.  I put d-rings on the wall between the benches in a high an low row. On the floor is a foam pad to protect the bench, and I used 1" rigid Styrofoam against the wall as another pad. None of those benches are going anywhere, nor will the wiggle. They will survive a rollover nicely. It took me a while to figure this out and I have some stuff on order to makes things better/neater going forward. Eventually everything will be blanketed to minimize rubs, but for this test, I just did the one.
 On the other wall:



 I have a larger curved bench and a coffee table next to it with a finished slab between the coffee table and the wall. All of this will be re-done and I would like to come up with a quicker method to attach and remove the straps, but for now, things are functional and secure.

 I still have the more odd shaped stuff to figure out, but I didn't stop working until about 8pm last night and at that point my brain was slowing down. I think I may need another shelf on that door side wall, but I will have to look at the sizes of my stuff and think more on that.
 Today I may add a little artwork outside as a diversion and start working on the stuff I have left to fit in. I am saving the wall spaces by the rear door to strap in the two canopies in those corners and have to put those hooks up also. I can also strap some lighter stuff to the roof 'joists' saving more space.
 Progress is being made.

[Resonator]

The real test is the "shakedown" test, drive around with the load and see what rattles loose. Anytime I hauled loads that were tied down, I'd stop within a 1/2 hour of leaving and check and retighten as necessary. Only suggestion I'd consider is how heavy the bigger tables/benches are. For best stability the heaviest weight of the load should be low in the trailer balanced so the wheels each carry it.
Question is have you tried hauling fresh cut mushroom logs in your trailer? If you do I'm sure they'll take a lichen to it.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yes, I always check my loads after a few miles, it's just a habit, also re-check safety chains, hitch and lights.

 Yes, I am planning on a balanced load, at least side to side, not so sure on front to back yet. That's why I am putting one canopy in each corner because the do have some weight. The benches not so much until you have a pile of them. Still working on figuring out the next larger pieces and placement.

 I don't plan on hauling logs in this at any time that I can envision. This was my last load of Logs on Sunday:


 It's a different 'thing'.

[doc henderson]

hey looks good.  I will throw this out cause that is what we do.  I like the strapping.  But... are you making it harder than it has to be for the bang.  If you begin making stuff dedicated to a show, and you want variety and to use what is at hand, you might make things that will nest.  along the lines of what Res. said, you could make 3 or 4 table that go face down on the floor table to tabletop in incrementally smaller sizes.  keeping the center of gravity low.  some fool may buy all 3 as a set.  then remake stuff to replace.  I worry you will still get some rub marks.  if the top table of say 4 in the stack is flat, then other stuff with padding can go on top.  there will be other things to strap to the wall.  we have cross ties at the ceiling of out trailer and long skinny things go up there like poles and such.  looking good.  Oh, love the color, whatever it is! 

[Old Greenhorn]

Yes, we are kind of on the same track Doc and I still have more that will go on the floor as you say. Yeah, tough to plan the nesting issue just yet. The stuff comes out by what the wood is, how it looks, and what I am making. Those curved ones will never play well with others. I will be moving stuff around today trying to figure out the puzzle. It's a perfect weather day for it.
 Back to work.

[21incher]

Wow, you even have purple mud down there 😀.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, in that photo it does look kind of purple, but I can assure you it is more black and brown. That's right at the edge of the chip yard and is A #1 first class growing soil right there. Thousands of tons of chips in that yard and it will swallow up a skidder if you are not careful. We used a dozer to drag that tree in there. I backed in with the trailer until my helper started waving his arms wildly, then I went another foot or two.

[Hilltop366]

Well that explains everything.....Must have your camera set on purple!

[WV Sawmiller]

Tom,

  Looking good. I like the ratchet strap idea.

  I transport mine with the tops facing each other with a moving blanket in between but you have a lot more time and higher quality finishes than I do so if one of mine gets scuffed it is not as hard to repair. I often even lay some unfinished ones face down on the floor because I am not worried about them. Then since they are all the same height/leg length, I put the next row on top with the legs between each other, put down my moving blankets then a row of benches on top face down and repeat if needed. I put small items like crates and birdhouses in the dead space between. Then I put a couple of straps across the tops of the benches and hold the whole load down.
 
  I like the idea of driving the open trailer into a mudhole so the tires sink in 6-8 inches to the axle before loading. It must make it a lot lower and easier to reach over the sides to load those heavy mushroom logs.  I assume it may make it a little hard to get rolling but what do I know. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, I don't know what the deal is with that dirt, There are a lot of minerals and decomp going and and it's very rich and mushy. Yes, though, ya got me, I was thinking about letting trailer sink down making loading easier for sure. Also note, the truck tires remain on good hardpack. There's about 3,300-4,000 pounds of logs on that trailer. I will look hard at that dirt next time I am back there.
 But I remained focused on the trailer today, gotta get this in a workable form quickly. I started before breakfast today, then broke for that and got back on it. I moved all the stuff remaining in my shed out to the trailer and looked and thought and move things here and there both in my head and physically. I undid the long row of benches and nest one bench in another opening up a spot, then took a bench from the passenger side and moved it to the driver's side. This allowed me to strap a table and a corner shelf to the floor on the passenger side. That corner shelf attracts a lot of interest, but nobody buys the doggone thing, it is a pain in the ash to pack anywhere. I hope it sells soon. I don't need too many 'ornaments' in my booth. I also managed to fit in the chair and a sewing machine table.


 I have one more sewing table that is not finished, but almost. Don't know if I want to bring them both. But of note is that the center floor area is still pretty open. This was a question I was wondering about, how much more could I fit? So now I have to transition again tomorrow. I have real work to get done on products that are already owed, and I see that my 'booth dressings' are in need of replacing or sprucing up, such as signage and brochures. I would like to bang out a lower end bench or two if I can, those can strap tight down the center isle.
 I also added some decals to both sides to break up that heavy black look.

 I'll do the one on the back when I get time.
 I still need to get some more straps as I see how things fit, and some more d-rings for the ceiling which I haven't even used yet. It will take time to work through the trial and error. I wish I could find wall hooks that were only hooks and not d-rings, that would be a big time saver.
 Always more to do, but it's getting there and I have stopped worrying about it. I just have to put the two canopies in there but I have their spots saved and ready.

[Hilltop366]

That is going to be so much nicer that loading and unloading in the truck!

[Old Greenhorn]

Well yeah, for sure, that was one goal, but the main goal was not having to unload after one show and then load again for the next show. This saves me storing if the shop and shed and doing all that extra non-value-added work. It just stays in the trailer. At most I will probably loosen some straps while it is just sitting and waiting. It will be beyond a huge improvement in efficiency for me doing shows. I just have to find the bugs and work them out. Still not happy with my tie downs on the walls, they are time consuming.

[WV Sawmiller]

Tom,

    Looking better all the time I am sure everything will find its place, then a better place and as things sell something else will go in that place.

    Now you need to find one of those urban graffiti experts to do a classy specialized, eye catching paint job on that trailer.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well after my last update I spent an hour or more searching for hooks to replace those d-rings. I finally gave up. As I was getting into bed, still annoyed by my failure, I realized I could just cut a slot in the ones I have. The material will handle the load, which really isn't that great anyway.
 So I got out there early this morning and fired up my (yet unused) cutoff disc and made one up. It's very simple, should have thought of it sooner

.

 I didn't even have to try it to know it would do the job. Problem solved, but I had to go off on family stuff for several hours and I picked up more d-rings while we were out.
 When we got back I started removing all the d-rings in the center sections, cutting the slot, then putting them back. It took a couple of hours to re-rig it all. Still more fine tuning to do over time. I also nested in a few stools as was suggested. Everything is high and tight. I need to get more screws to hang more ring/hooks, but that's for another day. I also put the artwork on the back door before the rain came in and put on some reflective safety strips on the back too, feeling it was pretty dark and hard to see., but I have to transition back to shop work and make some product and other 'stuff'.
 It's coming down to small details now and none too soon.

[Ljohnsaw]

Hopefully you didn't get your reflective tape at HF!  I got some a while back.  The red fades in 1 year out here and the sticky gave up in the second year

[Old Greenhorn]

Nah, I didn't even know HF had it. I got mine form Etrailer and it's DOT type stuff. Similar to what we used on fore trucks. I don't know yet if ti will fade but the sticky on that is not likely to give up soon, I had a hard time getting it off my fingers.