I need to fill up my tensioner...there's got to be a better way to do it than they say in the manual, no?
So that was what you were saying. I had bad service and couldn't quite make out your message. I haven't had to do anything to mine, so I don't know what they want you to do in the manual. Did it fail suddenly?
If it helps you any I found that using a syringe to put the oil in was the easiest and least messy way of doing it.
Gerald
Quote from: GAB on May 17, 2015, 07:47:32 PM
If it helps you any I found that using a syringe to put the oil in was the easiest and least messy way of doing it.
Gerald
I have a syringe I bought when I bought Round Up at Lowes. It has a tube on the end of it to measure the amount of Round Up I put in a gallon of water.
I use this same syringe to add ATF to my tensioner. It works great.
Thanks fellers...no I just need to add fluid dave, it has air in it and turns over really hard to get up to psi. No worries, my friend who has same mill is stopping in tomorrow am to help me with it. He said he tensions/fills his a handful of times per year. I asked him where the fluid was going he said he didn't know cause can't see any wet spots!
That's odd. I'm headed into year eight and never added any. Like you said, must have had an air bubble in yours.
Servicing the Blade Tensioner
Add an Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) such as Dexron III ATF to
the hydraulic blade tensioner as needed. To add enough fluid to completely fill the tensioner block:
1. Unscrew the tensioner handle to reveal 2” of thread. Remove the sawmill blade housing covers and blade.
2. Push the idle-side blade wheel/shaft housing all the way in to collapse the rear tensioner piston. Pull the idle-side blade wheel/shaft housing away from the tensioner.
3. There are two fill plugs provided on the tensioner. For easiest access, it is recommended to use the hole behind the gauge to refill the tensioner. Clean any dirt and debris from the plug area. Use a 7/16” wrench to remove the plug, making sure to keep the plug o-ring with the plug.
4. Use a small funnel, cup or squirt can to add hydraulic fluid through the fill plug hole until a puddle of fluid forms and is maintained over the fill hole. As you maintain the puddle, manually extend the rear piston. Be careful not to draw air into the tensioner. Use pliers to pull the rear piston if necessary, but only grip the outer 1/4” of the rear piston. Gripping or marring the surface beyond this point could result in seal damage and prevent the system
from holding tension. Continue pulling out the piston as far as it will travel.
5. Reinsert the plug and thread 2-3 turns. Turn the tension handle clockwise until 6 or 7 threads show beyond the front piston block. Tighten the plug all the way.
6. Push the idle-side blade wheel/shaft housing all the way in to collapse the rear tensioner piston. If the piston does not extend at least 2” from the end of the tensioner block, repeat Steps 1-5.
7. Reinstall the blade and blade housing covers. If you have trouble installing a blade, it may be necessary to remove some fluid. Open the plug one turn and turn the tension handle in until some fluid is pushed out. Tighten the plug and retry.