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Circular Sawmill

Started by HPPDRoss, August 19, 2012, 04:44:59 PM

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Ron Wenrich

You may need a few more wraps, but I've seen mills that have had very few wraps and they weren't having a problem.  Are you sure everything is adjusted right?  Your lead should have been set.  If its not set right, you could be having some drag. 

One thing that you do have to make sure is that you're not hitting the board splitter.  If that's not adjusted right, it'll cause a lot of drag against the log and make it tough to pull. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Rossy,first thing I would do is remove the log from the carriage and run the carriage back and fourth watching the cable,almost sounds like its riding on something and when the carriage is half way down it drops off and slacks the cable.Feather the controls and check for binding.If the bare carriage has no problems suspect the log hitting or binding on something. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

HPPDRoss

I think I got the problem solved. a friend of mine that works for the power company stopped by this morning and he braided the steel cable where it runs through the eye bolt at the front of the carriage. after that, we got the cable tight. I think the cable was pulling itself through the clamps. I cut a couple of pine logs this morning and everything worked as it should. I also put new teeth in morning, man what a difference that made.

HPPDRoss

I believe my saw is in need of hammering. Is there anywhere in SC or NC I could take it instead of having to ship. I know lee took his somewhere in NC, but don't remember where.

HPPDRoss

Can anyone here explain to me the proper way of lining up the board splitter behind the blade. I have one of those small round splitters approximately 8". also, how close to the blade does the splitter need to be.

beenthere

Don't want it to rub on the sawn face of the log on the carriage, but otherwise lined up. Also don't want a splinter to slip in between the splitter and the saw blade as it goes by.

Here is a link to Stan Lunstrum's book on Circular Saws that may be of some help to you.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bandmiller2

Rossy,I to have  the round splitter and set it up so its flush with the saw on the cant side,board side it it prys the board away from the saw slightly. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

HPPDRoss

Another question, has anybody replaced their original carriage feed setup to hydraulic? using a drive motor to turn the drum.

beenthere

Seems a pic was posted yesterday showing a hyd. motor driven drum for moving the carriage. Will look.

Looked, and it was not hyd. that SEMO79 showed. At least I don't thing so when I looked again.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bandmiller2

Hydraulic feed is a good but expensive option.Theirs a lot of forces on the feed and gigback remember most carriages weigh close to a ton and a good size log is a ton. The feed is also used as a brake. Most of the original feed systems work well if the belts are the right length. On my mill I incorporated a four speed transmission to change feed speed,third gear for pine second for oak.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Ron Wenrich

I changed one over many years ago.  I got help from a hydraulics guy to give me the best combination and did the install.  We ended up with using a pump driven off the arbor, and used a small fuel tank as our oil reservoir.  We had a fairly large motor with gear reduction.  The gearing kept things at a good speed, but had enough torque to move the carriage and log back and forth.  It worked really well.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Dave_

I changed over my old Belsaw.  I tried everything to get the old flat belt feedworks to function properly but just couldn't get there.  I had an old power pack that I bought at a farm auction.  They had it set up to operate a couple of cylinders to dump fruit totes.  I built a bracket and ran it off the main belt pulley on my Perkins engine.  I also had an old log splitter valve laying around.  I bought a new motor from Surplus Center and plumbed the whole thing together.  Coupling to the cable drum was real easy.  I just mounted a chain sprocket the the end of the shaft and mounted the motor on the frame.  I got a good idea about how to do it by looking at Capt. Crunch's set up.  The modification was the single best thing I did to that old mill.  At the end of each cut, I could pull the lever to gig back and (because it was set up for a log splitter) it would stay engaged by the internal detent.  That afforded me the ability to offbear by myself while the carriage giged back at a speed much slower than the belt drive would have given.  It might not be everybody else's cup of tea, but it sure worked great for me.

HPPDRoss

Dave, I sure would like to have the hydraulic feed on mine. Im sure most friction feeds work good like there supposed to, but mine doesnt. It looks like Im up on the deck wrestling a wooden handle. Sometimes it goes slow and sometimes it takes off like a rocket. could you get me some pictures of your setup? also, what size hydraulic drive motor does it take to pull the carriage?

Dave_

Unfortunately, I sold my mill.  The motor I used was a 23.6 cu. in. motor and it worked great.

sealark37

You can get your headsaw hammered and serviced by Union Grove Saw, In Union Grove, NC.  It is a few miles North of Statesville, NC on I-77

SPD748

I designed a hydraulic drive system for my mill around a Charlynn 2000 series 24 cu in motor with a #60 roller chain reduction. The motor will need to be plumbed with a cushion valve to prevent the system's back pressure from building to the point where it destroys components. The system cost would be $1000 - $1500 if you purchase new components. I still plan on converting my mill however I'd like to get things up and running as is first.

-lee
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bandmiller2

You fellas that have converted to hydraulic feed do you have to use what they call a motor spool valve so when you release the valve things don't come to an abrupt stop.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

HPPDRoss

I was cutting yesterday and noticed my blade keeps eating up my inside saw guide. It doesn't look like it ever touches the outside guide. Could be a operator problem since this is very new to me.

beenthere

HPPDRoss
"inside" meaning the operator side, not the log side?

Check out some of the hints and suggestions in this thread from the past few days and see if something in the mill setup tips you off as to what the problem might be on your mill. There is a problem, just need to find it.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,68917.0.html
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Corley5

The blade shouldn't be "eating" the guide, maybe rubbing it leaving a shiny ring on the saw.  Is the guide out too far on the rim of the saw so it's hitting the gullets?
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Ron Wenrich

First off, check your teeth.  If they are old or worn or even a few of them chipped, that can be part of the problem.  First thing I always do is change teeth to see if the problem clears up.  Many problems involve tooth maintenance.

If you still have a problem then your lead is probably a little too light.  Just because you have it set to a predetermined setting doesn't mean its the right one for your saw.  Your saw is leading out.  Throw a little more in and see if the problem doesn't clear up.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

HPPDRoss

Hey guys, hadn't posted anything in a while just wanted to give an update. Everything  is steel except for the husk. We built the carriage out of 3x3 1/4" tubing, new axles with pillow block bearings.  I was able to find 100ft of 12'' channel for the track. I also changed the flat belts to v-belt configuration.  I finally was able to saw some pretty decent lumber.  The blade began wobbling and getting hot.  I took it off to have it hammered and found two hairline cracks near the eye.  Today I called BH Payne and ordered a new 7 gauge 48" f style blade with carbide teeth. I went ahead and purchased a jones grinder to go with it.  I also replaced the 4 cylinder Perkins with a 6-71 Detroit. The engine is still in the truck, I guess I'll run it through the 10 speed transmission.  I'm on here all the time, just hadn't posted anything. Thank y'all for  everything.

bandmiller2

Good to have you back, was wondering what happened. I would build a doghouse around that Detroit so you can hear yourself think. You should have plenty of power. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Ron Wenrich

We always took the exhaust and extended the pipe so it was outside the mill.  We ran a chipper, which helped drown out the noise of the Detroits.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

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