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Huffing woodstove

Started by Handy Andy, November 28, 2011, 08:56:39 AM

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Handy Andy

  Bought a new non-catalytic Vermont castings defiant 2 years ago.  Last year, was having trouble with huffing, assumed it was because my wood wasn't dry enough.  So this year, I cut and split my wood last winter.  We had a horrible drought this summer, with temps up to about 115 degrees, and the wood I cut up was from degraded logs, not fresh.  It seems really dry. Put it in the basement, and put the dehumidifier next to it.  Vacuumed out the stove, took the top off, vac-ed out the soot, cleaned the pipe, and the cleanout on the chimney, thought I was good to go.  Now, the fire starts up good, temp goes up to 500 degrees on top of stove, and I throw the damper, to start the smoke burning.  Usually it kills the fire, after while, and I reopen the damper, get the fire going again, then at 500 I throw the damper again, and the fire will keep going, but it will die down and then flash up, causing smoke to come out the top door.  Getting the idea of how a wood burning truck works.  Can someone tell me how to get this stove to stop the huffing?  Beginning to think I should have bought the catalytic version.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

WH_Conley

I am not familiar with your stove. I had a stove one time that had an internal damper, it was just on or off. I had pretty much the same problem you describe. Put a damper in the pipe, problem went away. I guess it was dying out and when a little fresh air came in the bottom it would just flash, kind like a mini explosion. Just as a guess it is probably not "breathing" any, has to have a continuous burn, even if it is low.
Bill

Holmes

  Sounds like the  gasses are igniting inside the stove. Vvvaaboom sound?  I had a Jotul that would do that. I have a catalytic com-buster now and have not had that happen with this stove.
Think like a farmer.

Handy Andy

  Funny thing is, this only happens when the stove is cold, getting started.  Or sometimes when I want to turn the stove down, by reducing the air.  Usually once the stove is hot and working right, I can add wood and it's ok.  This morning, I cleaned out the ashes, put scraps in and started the stove up, it heated up to 500, I turned the damper to make it burn smoke, fire went black, opened up again, fire took off and came back up to 500, turned the damper again, and the fire kept burning, but it huffed about 6 times before burning right.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

beenthere

QuoteFunny thing is, this only happens when the stove is cold, getting started.

Let the stove warm up before flipping the damper. You may be getting a false reading of 500 and the stove still isn't warm enough to "run itself" with a strong enough draw.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Holmes

On my stove when inside the fire box reaches 500 degrees you can engage the com-buster . That is the temp to start burning the gasses in the smoke. I still think the gasses are igniting, giving you scary little explosions in the firebox ... Holmes
Think like a farmer.

sawdust


I had a similar problem with my Blaze king which has a catastrophic  converter. I found that I was using too small wood. It woofed so hard that it lifted the chimney off the top of the stove and set it to the side! Bigger wood so it gasses slower. I notice that they have drilled a hole in the supply damper so there is always a tiny fresh air supply. I think mine was drawing hard around the door seal until it reached a good mix and then would flash over.
Sawdust
comforting the afflicted and afflicting the comfortable.

jdtuttle

Here's a link with several possibilities. Look at the :"outdoor supply of combustion air"
jim
http://www.thechimneysweep.ca/2stackeffect.html
Have a great day

Al_Smith

If you just open up  the air and stack damper up a few seconds before you open the door it won't back draft on you .If you don't some stoves will huff fire like puff the  dragon .

John Mc

By "throwing the damper", do you mean adjusting the air inlet, or do you also have a damper in your flue above the stove? I don't have a damper at all in my flue, and don't need one... in fact, I'm told it will interfere with the proper operation of my stove (Hearthstone Pheonix, non-cat).

The huffing is usually caused by more gas being produced than there is air in the stove to burn it.  If the fire dies down, you are starving it for oxygen, so whatever you closed, you have probably closed it too far, or too soon (wood gives off a lot more gas early in it's combustion cycle).

A good place for wood stove operating tips:  www.woodheat.org

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

No stack damper ,really ? Seems odd but whatever works I guess .

John Mc

Quote from: Al_Smith on November 29, 2011, 09:59:52 AM
No stack damper ,really ? Seems odd but whatever works I guess .

Most of the newer woodstoves are better controlled by varying the air input, not the outflow through the stack.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Handy Andy

  When I start a fire, I always have the air lever set for the most combustion air.  The damper I mention is the door you close when you want the stove to start burning the smoke.  There is a big ceramic thing in the back of the stove with a few about 1/4" holes, and the smoke goes through those holes, and when the ceramic is hot enough, the smoke burns, creating heat.  When it is working, the stove pipe gets cooler, you can put a hand on it without getting a burn, so the thing does work. I have a stove pipe thermostat on the top door of the stove, it's shaped like a griddle, and the directions say to get the stove up to 500, on that thermostat, and close the damper.  But it seems like it takes a while to get the ceramic block hot enough to work right.  Once it's hot, can add wood with no problem.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

WH_Conley

Look at your parts manual and see if that thing is not part #90 on the exploded view. The defiant is sold as a convertible stove. If that is what you are talking about with the holes, the converter is in place. I know nothing about catalytic stoves, never burned one. Also, check "damper adjustment", wouldn't be the first thing that ever left the factory that needed a little fine tuning. That is to say nothing of normal wear.
Bill

beenthere

Quote from: Handy Andy on November 29, 2011, 09:15:14 PM
  When I start a fire, I always have the air lever set for the most combustion air.  The damper I mention is the door you close when you want the stove to start burning the smoke.  There is a big ceramic thing in the back of the stove with a few about 1/4" holes, and the smoke goes through those holes, and when the ceramic is hot enough, the smoke burns, creating heat.  When it is working, the stove pipe gets cooler, you can put a hand on it without getting a burn, so the thing does work. I have a stove pipe thermostat on the top door of the stove, it's shaped like a griddle, and the directions say to get the stove up to 500, on that thermostat, and close the damper.  But it seems like it takes a while to get the ceramic block hot enough to work right.  Once it's hot, can add wood with no problem.

Now, you started out in your OP saying you had a non-catalytic stove. What you just described is what I have and the bee-comb like ceramic thing is referred to as the catalytic burner. Treat it with great care, and carefully vacuum the fly ash out of it or it will not draw air through it. I strongly suspect that is your problem. No hot gases are passing through that ceramic after-burner. I had the same problem.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Handy Andy

  Beenthere, there are 2 models of this stove, the one with the catalytic converter, and the one they call"non catalytic", but they both burn smoke. I used my shop vac on it when it was cold before firing it up last time.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

SwampDonkey

Quote from: Al_Smith on November 29, 2011, 09:59:52 AM
No stack damper ,really ? Seems odd but whatever works I guess .

None on my furnace and at my uncle's none on his stove pipe, it's controlled by the stove outlet with a slider knob and damper on the side with a slider. On my shop stove I do because it's a really old design with just a low tech damper plate.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Holmes

 Vermont castings has a combination stove ,cat and non cat is this that stove? It seems you have a catalytic you are engaging. If you add wood to a cat stove and do not use the proper sequence of operation ,disengage then re-engage the cat  when the stove gets hot enough you will get the problem you are having.  Holmes
Think like a farmer.

John Mc

It certainly does sound as though what you are describing is engaging the catalytic converter. (Vermont Castings does sell a stove that can be run as a cat or non-cat stove). You do NOT want to engage the converter until the converter is up to the appropriate temperature. Failure to operate this properly can muck up your converter. I don't have a lot of experience with cataylitic stoves, but I believe once the catalytic converter is solidly up to temperature, it tends to stay that way, even when adding more wood (as long as you dont't let things really burn out between charges of wood.

I suspect either you are just switching over to catalytic burn too early, or in the worst case, you have done that early switch often enough that the catalytic converter is contaminated or clogged (or maybe partly clogged). This MIGHT be why you got away with it the first year, but now as the contamination has built up, you are having problems.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

WI Fire

I have a VC Defiant Encore, 20 + years old. I use it in early fall, early spring, and occasionally in deep winter. I have replaced the catalyst block twice, and also taken it out and done the vinegar cleaning once. I don't part with it, because with the bimetallic strip temp. control, it's been superb. I likewise believe the chimney must be well heated, and the stove up to temp before moving to catalytic mode. I have seen flames 'puffing' similar to a backdraft if the temp. control on the right side of the stove is too far closed.

The other thing, is chimney length which influences draft. I have a good interior 30 plus foot run. If your draft is not good, you could also influence the starving effect.

tazz

I have the Dutchwest made by Vermont Castings with a catalyst. I have this problem sometimes and have to open the damper for a few seconds to let it vent. Usually adjusting the air inlet to give it a little more oxygen fixes this problem. I don't know how fast you are closing your damper after building a fire but I always wait until I have at least 1" of coals in the bottom and my firebox is at least 450 degrees F before closing the damper. Also if the temperature outside is mild you may not get the proper draft on your chimney that you get on a cold day.

Handy Andy

  I go for 500 degrees, the instruction manual shows where to put your stove pipe thermostat.  VC calls this stove their non- cat version, there is no cat, but it has a big block of something like firebrick with holes in it, which essentially does the same thing, just not supposed to burn out.  Found a video of a stove like mine huffing on U tube, by CLC Drama, if I were a computer geek, would put a link here.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

SwampDonkey

Just highlight the youtube link with the mouse with left mouse button down, copy (Ctrl-C) , then click in the post window with the mouse and hit Ctrl-V to paste into your post. I don't think the video will post unless you have a little text added to the post . Good to have tabbed browsing in your web browser, so you can click back and forth between web pages. Not the back/previous button. When copying and pasting with the mouse, the right button clicked brings up a edit menu to copy/paste as well.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Holmes

 Do you have the Everburn system? I saw something about this system. That person had a hot bed of coals , 600 degree stack temp then put dry wood in and closed the air damper. It seems like a very good system. Maybe going to 550 or 600 degree stack temp will help with your problem.  Holmes
Think like a farmer.

Handy Andy

  Think I'm learning something. Instruction manual says build a small fire to help with back puffing. So last evening I used shop vac to clean holes in ceramic back plate, then built a fire with 2 scrap boards. After about a half hour of burning, thermo showed 450 degrees, and I engaged the damper.  It continued to burn and left it alone for another half hour.  Wood was then coals, so put in 3 smaller pieces of split firewood. Seemed to be burning ok after a few minutes, so engaged damper.  Went upstairs.  Wife says the house is getting to smell like smoke.  So went downstairs, and the stove was going WHUFF.  So I disengaged the damper, let it burn a while, maybe 15 minutes, then reingaged damper.  Then it was ok overnite.  Very few coals this morning, but a few. Put in 2 small pieces of wood, burned for an hour before engaging damper, finally was burning ok without whuffing. Added some wood when first wood was coals, seems to be burning ok.  Seems the trick is to build a small fire in the biggest wood stove I could buy.  Jim
My name's Jim, I like wood.

Al_Smith


I'm a tellin ya the more you folks elaborate on so called high tech wood stoves the less I'm impressed with them .

Sounds to me the things are more trouble than they're worth .Who in the world wants something as basically simple as wood stove you nearly have to romance and make love to to get to work correctly .Good grief .  :D

Now sits this old dummy with a 30 year old glass front Lopi with a simple slide damper and I don't have a bit of problems .Toss the wood in ,let it burn ,stay warm and shovel the ashes out once every two weeks or so .Simple things for a simple man .

WH_Conley

I have to agree with Al in this one. Might have to cut a little more, but, don't need a college degree to use it. My old Ashley, little kindling, wait a few minutes, some big wood, wait a few minutes til it catches, fill it up and shut down tight, come back in a few hours and add more wood.
Bill

SwampDonkey

 ;D That's what I say. I'm glad we don't have stove police around here. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Al_Smith

 :) Aha ha we don't have the chainsaw police either .The last of those who came through  it was rumored got stuffed in a shipping container and shipped to the west coast . Probabley in China now for all I know .

SwampDonkey

We don't have any chainsaw police here. Our Stihl saws are German made. We have about 1 Worker's comp officer for the entire province. know him by name to, Carol Sawyer. No lie.  In all the years I've been in the woods, I have never seen one of those guys anywhere. And on crown land I saw the mill guy that checks the crews twice in three years.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Holmes

  Glad to hear you are getting a handle on your stove.  All new stoves have a learning curve, mine is a catalytic and it took a while to get used to. I am very pleased with it now and would not go back to an old style stove. Certainly a lot less worry about creosote, chimney fires and my wife feels it is safe to use this stove.   
Think like a farmer.

SwampDonkey

Those of us with the old style stoves we check our pipes and flues periodically, which I would do anyway no matter what stove I used. My shop stove never has as much as a palm full of soot from all winter and flu maybe a liter of loose stuff a year. Just cleaned the furnace pipes today and nothing of consequence in there after 2 months burning.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

John Mc

The single biggest variable in wood stoves is the operator.

Yes, some designs might be capable of burning more cleanly or more efficiently, but any of that is dwarfed by burning improperly seasoned wood, or not operating your stove properly. Some stove designs are more tolerant of less than optimal techniques, or are able to run well under a wide variety of conditions, but it still comes down to using what you have properly.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

You have about three stages of wood burning .The open flame which it turn releases the gasses  then the charcoal which really holds the majority of the heat and for all intents is the least  creosote producing of all .

If you can maintain to some degree all three stages you'll get the most heat and the least pollutants .

You can load them up for over night but it's how you do it as to weather it puffs smoke all  night long or just burns and doesn't smoke like a cold diesel .

I'm kind of like good ole Swamp  in that there isn't much gunk in the flue .Just a tad near the exit hole in the top is about it .

SwampDonkey

My old shop stove might be a POS to many because it's as old as my dead grandfather. And he was a child of the 19C. Well, you know how old I am, look to the left. :D But I only use 1.5 cords all winter and the shop never freezes. I can leave the shop 3 days in 20 below weather and it don't freeze. The shop isn't big and low sealing, but I figure I'm getting near the maximum I can get for heat from that little pile of wood. I only use about 4 slabs all day, that's if I am in there all day. And the door is 1/4 to 1/2 way open at that. ;D

I won't even go into what I see across the road because it would be pointless unless you lived here and see it with your own eyes. You'd call me a liar. However, someday I expect to see the red coats over there. Well, they don't wear them now, that's just for ceremonies. :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Handy Andy

  Thanks for the support, I'm finally getting the hang of operating this woodstove.  Just limit myself to 3 pieces of split firewood. My theory is that there are just not enough holes in the smoke burner to support a big fire. If I weren't afraid of breaking it, would just drill some more holes.  Went all day today with no huffing, and it's about 70 in the house. Had to tend to the stove every time I came in, but not a big deal.  Had the idea I could just fill the stove with wood, limit the air, and fill it twice a day. Ha Ha
My name's Jim, I like wood.

beenthere

Now you are getting there. There will be no end to learning more, so keep on keeping on. :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Mc

Don't drill it! Vermont Castings is a reputable stove manufacturer

You should be able to put more than 3 pieces in the stove at a time. If you can't, something is wrong. It's possible that burner is partially clogged (it still sounds an awful lot like a catalytic stove to me, or maybe one of their "dual mode" stoves). You should be able load up the stove at least 2/3 full. If you can't, you should talk to your dealer about it.

If it was working well when first installed, then you need to figure out what has changed. It sounds as though the stove is not getting enough air. Could be that burner you described is clogged, or could be something else. I'd get it checked out.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SwampDonkey

Have you checked the flu for blockage?
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Handy Andy

  Yes, I checked the flue.  Had the same trouble last year, thought it was that the firewood was too wet.  So I cut up and split more last winter, got the wood into the basement this fall, put the dehumidifier next to the wood pile and ran that.  Firewood is probably too dry now. Just looked at the Vermont castings website, now it says the non- catalytic stove is for ambience, less for heat.  Says get the catalytic for heating your house.  Wish they had told me that before I bought this thing.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

John Mc

Seems odd that they would say their Defiant model woodstove (rated at 75,000 BTU)  is for ambiance, not heating.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Handy Andy

  John Mc, it's because it doesn't work right.  They are trying to avoid a class action lawsuit.  The company that bought out VC, probably thinks they bought only the assets, not the liabilities, so are trying to avoid any more sales to folks who want to heat with the non catalytic version.  Seems to me it would be simpler to redesign the smoke burner and make it available to people with problem stoves.  Jim
My name's Jim, I like wood.

Ironwood

I have a 15-18 year old Defiance VC dual stove, run it without cat to start and engage it AFTER a large bed of coals is established, NEVER  EVER had to service the converter EVER. Love it, load it up, give it tiime to burn the new full load a bit then reengage the cat. Burns all night. It holds ALOT of wood. Also, to get her going dont be afaid to open the ash door a LITTLE but be careful she'll get raging quickly (dont leave it unattended that way). Our chimney is internally lined ( heavy flexible stainless, ost as much as the stove) old house chimney, so heats well, quickly and stays hot, yours may differ.  Heat the whole house as it is in the middle and on the first floor and it gravity feeds (convects) heat to the upstairs well. 


Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

beenthere

Same as Ironwood. Have used the Defiant VC for 10 years now and haven't ever had a problem with it. I will confess to having to clean off the fly ash from the top of the cat. conv.
I don't think this is a stove problem, but another example of having to learn what works and what doesn't work.  Hopefully can figure it out so the stove can be enjoyed.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

tyb525

Have a Dutchwest "Federal Airtight", dual mode stove. I can fill it as full of wood as I possibly can and it burns fine. Don't engage the cat til the stove is 500+ and has a good draft (doesn't work so well on a no-wind day). We do have a damper, but we never touch it, just regulate the fire by the ash box door and side load door vents. Using a damper can cause more creosote when your draft isn't the greatest.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

beenthere

Quote from: John Mc on December 07, 2011, 10:34:13 AM
Seems odd that they would say their Defiant model woodstove (rated at 75,000 BTU)  is for ambiance, not heating.

I'd be easily convinced that the "for ambiance" pitch is more to dodge the EPA bullets aimed at them. They would have to run the full gamut of tests to establish heat output as well as the emissions. These tests are very expensive and very tentative as to results. Likely (at least I would believe) that the company buying out VC simply can't recover these tests in sales income.  In the end, we the taxpayer and user end up with the bill, or see another USA business go under due to the overburden of regs. It is a sad outcome to an established business as well as new business adventures trying to get started.

Just my opinion.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ironwood

Also, you should be able to see the glow of the cat when it is operating properly, it is behind the woodbox up high behind the grate.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Handy Andy

  My non-catalytic version of the VC defiant does not have a catalytic converter.  It has a chamber that is supposed to burn the smoke. Problem is it is really touchy. I've been in contact with a tech from the company, he thinks I need a new part called the "fountain".  Says the stove sat in storage a couple of years, probably collected moisture in the"fountain".  It is made of a fiber material, think that is the problem.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

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