Rib metel roofing

[Ed_K]

 It's hunter green painted at the factory. It snowed yesterday got 4" the north side that hasn't rusted the snow was sliding off as soon as there was 2" built up the south rusted side never moved had to melt off when it warmed up in the afternoon.

[Don V]

Why anyone would screw in the flat part of the sheet I never could figure out. Screwing on the ridge is the most likely place to keep a roof from leaking. every building and house roof is on the ridge without any problem at our home stead.

Because if the manufacturer requires it and you don't, the warranty is voided.  I have a small quest room that have screws in the flats, 23 years now, not one leak.  Just don't over, or under tighten the screws.

[Walnut Beast]

Why anyone would screw in the flat part of the sheet I never could figure out. Screwing on the ridge is the most likely place to keep a roof from leaking. every building and house roof is on the ridge without any problem at our home stead.

Because if the manufacturer requires it and you don't, the warranty is voided.  I have a small quest room that have screws in the flats, 23 years now, not one leak.  Just don't over, or under tighten the screws.

If screwing in the flats was so good I would think premium buildings like Morton that do lots of agricultural and commercial buildings would be doing it

[snobdds]

On my cabin I used pro panel sheets.  They spec out large diameter screws in the flats and a stitcher screw on the ridge overlaps.   The stitcher screw did not go into the roof, it just kept the seam together.   

Its in deep snow country,  so far it's held up great.  

[DeerMeadowFarm]

I used rib metal roofing with the screws in the flats when I built my barn over 20 years ago. Under it is 5/8 plywood with roofing paper. I drove the screws in with a cordless drill. So far, so good (as I am knocking on my wood desk). The color has faded quite a bit but it sees a ton of sun. 

3 years ago I built our sugar shack. Used the same roofing; screws in the flats. Under it is 3/4" T&G pine with roofing paper. Used a cordless impact driver but was very careful. It's still "new" but hoping it lasts!

[Sedgehammer]

I used rib metal roofing with the screws in the flats when I built my barn over 20 years ago. Under it is 5/8 plywood with roofing paper. I drove the screws in with a cordless drill. So far, so good (as I am knocking on my wood desk). The color has faded quite a bit but it sees a ton of sun.

3 years ago I built our sugar shack. Used the same roofing; screws in the flats. Under it is 3/4" T&G pine with roofing paper. Used a cordless impact driver but was very careful. It's still "new" but hoping it lasts!

about time you replace those screws then. the rubber is dried out and will start leaking.

[petefrom bearswamp]

28 yrs now on my shop, Fabral painted roofing dont know the brand of screw, placed on the flats with cordless drill into 2x4 purlins, no impacts were common back then.
no leaks.
The only issue is the paint has weathered and the snow no longer comes off with a resounding wump.
Had rust below my chimney, had grandson wire brush and paint with good old rustoleum about 10 yrs ago paint still looks good.
Adirondack camp built in '87 was roofed with galv. and nailed on the ridges, some nails have backed out a bit no major leaks.
No tape on the ridges back then, had a little water once in a driving rain storm, came in on wife and I when we were in bed.
I think screws were just coming into vogue back then.

[Don P]

Read the directions?  :D 

[snobdds]

Here is where the pro panels want you to screw...

[Sedgehammer]

The reason they don't recommend screwing via the ribs is that area isn't flat, it's rounded depending on your panel type, so the rubbers aren't fully compressed. therefore more prone to leaks.

[tawilson]

Read the directions?  :D

Yeah back before the internet, that's about all we had to go by.

[SwampDonkey]

It's one of them chicken and egg stories as far as I can see. :D They are all screwed down up here on the ribs. We can go to 1000 buildings if you want to, going back over 40 years and your not going to see any screwed on the flats. Most all the houses around here have steel roofing, except a couple prefabs down the road that shingles didn't last as advertised. I remember talking to one of them guys with a prefab and he was not pleased. I told him what my experience was, that they never hardly last 20 years. One exception though, mom's uncle's, been on there since the 50's, never replaced. That was when stuff was made to last to. ;D

I've got 26 gauge Galvalum on the house and garage. I have no worries.

[moodnacreek]

The reason they don't recommend screwing via the ribs is that area isn't flat, it's rounded depending on your panel type, so the rubbers aren't fully compressed. therefore more prone to leaks.

Not so because it won't leak anyhow unless flat and flooded.

[snobdds]

I think one of the reasons my supplier does not recommend just screwing in the ribs is that is only holding the panel on in sheer.  Screwing on the flats holds in compression.  

The space under the ribs creates a sheer force on the screw, where this same force is not happening on the flats.  

Like the saying always goes, build in compression, not sheer.

[Walnut Beast]

I used rib metal roofing with the screws in the flats when I built my barn over 20 years ago. Under it is 5/8 plywood with roofing paper. I drove the screws in with a cordless drill. So far, so good (as I am knocking on my wood desk). The color has faded quite a bit but it sees a ton of sun.

3 years ago I built our sugar shack. Used the same roofing; screws in the flats. Under it is 3/4" T&G pine with roofing paper. Used a cordless impact driver but was very careful. It's still "new" but hoping it lasts!

That's one of the main reasons you don't see any leaking. You have plywood and tarpaper. If you had shingles blow off a house and the tarpaper was exposed , put on right  and it doesn't tear it won't leak 

[Walnut Beast]

Let's think about this. On a roof wherever a valley is water flows. Now take a screw with a rubber grommet on it and the rubber doesn't seal properly. Like not getting the screw in straight or the rubber gets old and is shot especially if it's low quality. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what's going to happen when the bulk of the water is flowing in the lows

[Walnut Beast]

Read the directions?  :D

Don your one of the sharpest pencils in the building arena and you should know the directions are not always right or the best way 😂

[Walnut Beast]

 

 

 

[Walnut Beast]

Morton builds all caliber and price range of buildings

 

 

 

   

[snobdds]

That entire roof is held on by shear forces and the fastener is subject to massive side loading.  Screws should only hold in compression, unless structurally made by design.  

[Walnut Beast]

Go look at the warranty of a Morton on everything. Pretty impressive. Many buildings over a million in price. I think there going to use the best way way with offering a warranty like they do

[Don P]

Read the directions?  :D

Don your one of the sharpest pencils in the building arena and you should know the directions are not always right or the best way 😂

It takes something pretty compelling for me to not follow the directions and void the warranty.

Actually the low fastener came from the post frame industry so the panel can perform as a shear diaphragm eliminating the need for a plywood deck.

From the pro panel pdf, this is one of the approvals if the panel is screwed as per the instructions

ASTM E 455 Diaphragm Capacity

I've never gone through a Morton building with the aim of trying to figure out how they are bracing it, I assume there is some other method we are not seeing, flat strapping perhaps, dunno. Go carefully when thinking you understand something you are driving by looking at, there is usually more going on than is apparent.
Dr Harvey Manbeck did a lot of the original work on this which led to the modern large post frame buildings we see today vs the old pole barns which had a tough time staying up even though smaller and using larger members. If you want to go digging some of his webinars, publications and software are on the NAFB site. 
That stuff is all about using the panel and screws in shear as part of the structure. They are thinking about structure, you are thinking about water. Both are valid and you don't have one problem solved without the other.
If you screw high also be aware of spreading the sheets the same amount top and bottom as you compress, its easy to start fanning them, especially if 2 guys are working.
As Tom said, its hard to beat standing seam. Or, its easy to avoid the issue, use standing seam  :D

[Walnut Beast]

Don I wasn't referring to straying from directions that could avoid warranty 😂.  It is very interesting. I can see this from both sides. Screwing in the flat with a good screw washer combo up against something solid underneath is going to make a good seal no doubt and I think if you screw and it doesn't go perfectly straight in that on the flat would seem like there would be a slight advantage on the flat of getting the screw to seat properly. In the directions from Snobbs that is interesting how the ribs are connected without going into anything else. ( do they call for any tape or foam between the overlap of the ribs )

[Walnut Beast]

 

 STRENGTH IN THICKNESS AND RIB PATTERN
Roll formed at one of Morton's six manufacturing plants throughout the United States, Morton's steel is .019 inches thick, or 26-gauge, with a one-inch tall major rib, providing added strength over the typical steel from a competitor that is .015 inches thick with five-eighths of an inch major rib.

[Walnut Beast]

Roll Formed Steel

Our Roll-Formed Steel
26-gauge commercial quality Hi-Rib™ steel not only looks good on the roof and exterior walls, it adds unmatched durability.
All Steel is Not Created Equally
Inferior, imported products with untraceable metal content are common in the construction industry. Morton uses prime steel manufactured at our own plants—pre-engineered commercial quality Hi-Rib™ steel.
Steel panels used by many other builders are formed from 29-gauge, full hard steel, which has a higher tensile strength. But, with Morton's higher rib height and thicker gauge, our Hi-Rib™ panels are stronger. In fact, Morton's panels have rib height up to 33% higher and steel thickness that is up to 25% thicker than panels used by other builders. In addition, our steel panels are not welded but rather fastened with screws and nails that add durability.
Steel is commonly recognized as a strong material. When unprotected and exposed to the weather, however, steel oxidizes rapidly and red rust forms. If the steel is left unprotected, it will likely rust through in a matter of years.
To protect the steel, Morton applies a coating of zinc or a mixture of zinc and aluminum. The two coatings commonly used are galvanized and Galvalume®. Galvanized is 100% zinc, while galvalume® is 30% zinc and 70% aluminum.
Industry's Toughest Steel

• Arch-shaped ribs are 1" high and spaced 12"—the strongest architectural shape for withstanding water and weight
• Rib height up to 33% higher and steel thickness up to 25% thicker than panels used by other builders
• Hail impact resistant and external fire resistant, supported by the Underwriter's Laboratory, the durability of our steel can translate into building insurance discounts for some customers

[color][size][font]
In order to get the strength needed to carry roof loads, flat sheets of steel are run through a roll-forming machine. To form the ribs, the steel is stretched and bent. As a result, especially when using full hard steel, there is a strong likelihood that this stretching may result in hairline cracks in the paint and zinc. These cracks may result in future red rust. But not with Morton.
At Morton, our commercial-quality Hi-Rib steel is more flexible and includes a heavier zinc coating and FLUOROFLEX 1000™ paint system, which resists cracking during the roll-forming operation. Our panels feature high ribs with a rounded profile. Generous bend radii offer improved paint and metallic coating flexibility. Many other builders provide ribs that have a lower profile and have more, and sharper, bends. It's just one more reason why, when you choose Morton, you'll have a building that looks better and lasts longer.[/font][/size][/color]