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Loose belts vs tight belts

Started by Doug Wis, February 01, 2015, 10:50:00 PM

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Doug Wis

   I have a TK 1600 which has tight belts on the band wheels. I have changed them before, but not real fun. I understand that WM runs loose belts. Are the wheels different somehow or could you run loose belts on the TK or tight ones on the WM? The factory belts lasted about 200 hrs and  I replaced them with  belts from the auto parts store. Now at about 400 hrs and the belts still aren't too bad, but one is buggered up abit probably from a broken blade. has anyone run both and what do you see as advantages and disadvantages of either?. Thanks
A man who says he can do everything at 65 that he did at 25 sure wasn't doing much at 25.

coastlogger

I havent run tight ones but the loose(Napa B57s on 19 inch bandwheels) seem to work just fine for me and others. There is a fair amount on this topic in the archives I blv.
clgr

bandmiller2

I've gone both ways (with belts) and found little difference. I use tight belts B-56 and feel they are less likely to be damaged if a band breaks or comes off the wheel. Get a couple of old dull butter knives and have the belt warm to work on the wheel. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

hunz

I've had experience with both, and here's my take. The loose belts on the WM saw allows for easy replacement( I think that's self explanatory). A negative is that when sawing pine, pitch and sawdust build up in clumps, under the belt of the drive wheel. When this happens, the mill gets a vibration that left me stumped the first time it happened. It takes a minute to clean it out, and then you're back up and running.

To me I don't see a large enough benefit to either to constitute grounds on which is a better design. They both have positives and negatives...it just depends on your flavor.
Dream as if you'll saw forever; saw as if you'll die today.



2006 Woodmizer LT40D51RA, Husqvarna 372xp, Takeuchi TL140

ladylake

 Replacing the 56 belts can be a bear sometime but I got one on in 5 minutes last week, normally 10 to 15 minutes.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Ga Mtn Man

Has anyone bought B56 belts from WM and are they the same "special made" belts as the B57's?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Dave Shepard

I've only run the loose B57's on my WM. The only time I've had trouble was sawing larch. I got pitch glumps (globs of pitch mixed with clumps of sawdust) under the belt and the band wouldn't stay on. A couple of minutes scraping and I haven't had any trouble since.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

pineywoods

I'm firmly in the loose belt camp, but my situation may be a little different. I run a mizer LT40 with a blower sucking the sawdust out and blowing it outside. I don't have any problem with clumps under the belts unless the extraction system gets plugged somewhere. I do saw mostly pine, some of it full of resin..Generally sawdust under the belts doesn't happen unless the dust is not exiting the enclosure...ie plugged up sawdust exit.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

pine

Quote from: ladylake on February 02, 2015, 09:59:14 AM
Replacing the 56 belts can be a bear sometime but I got one on in 5 minutes last week, normally 10 to 15 minutes.   Steve

Any techniques to offer that are different than the ones that Jason has in the TK videos?  I am coming up on a belt change and doubt if I can do it in 10-15 minutes so am looking for any better ideas from those who have gone before.

ladylake



   Getting the final twist out I just pried the belt up with one screw driver and tapped it down in place with a hammer.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

pine

Are you of the remove the wheel as TK says or do you leave them on the mill.

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

redbeard

Goodyear B-56 belts soak in bucket of warm water. Have a collection of medium and large flat head screw drivers (round and smooth the edges) Two 6" C clamps, small ball peen hammer, and a Squirt bottle of liquid dish soap. Clean grooves really good and have a clean work area. First time takes awhile.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

ladylake

 B56 belts for TK mill and Goodyear work the best, on my B20 I can leave the wheels on as they are more open the  newer  TK mills.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

4x4American

I am tempted to try the Cook's retrofit steel wheels in the future.
Boy, back in my day..

Ga Mtn Man

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

bandmiller2

The "V" belts have been on my mill for 12 years and their still in good shape. I forget what brand they are but they have a slight crown and are tight in the groove. If your used to mounting tires you shouldn't have much trouble with tight belts they go on the same way. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Doug Wis

   I talked to Matt at TK today and he said you can run the loose belts on the Tk but they feel the tight ones are better, so recommend them. when I changed them before I took the wheels off like they recommend. used a sawsall with hacksaw blade to take the old ones off.   Cut at an angle, easier  than trying to cut with a knife. Cleaned and  lubed the wheel.  Think I had a pair of needle nosed vice grips involved some how. Don't saw all that much, so has been awhile since I changed them. I think I figured  then I could change them on the mill next time. Thanks for all the replys.
A man who says he can do everything at 65 that he did at 25 sure wasn't doing much at 25.

Kasba

When I bought my Timbery 285 the salesman told me that the belts were originally tight but now that they are put together at Woodmizer the mill comes from the factory with loose belts. I questioned why that is and he said that he thinks it is because they are easier to get on and that is the way Woodmizer assembles their mills. I have not had any problems so far.
Timbery M285 25hp, Husqvarna 570 auto tune, Alaskan sawmill, Nova 1624 wood lathe, Dogo Argentino

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