need part number

[WH_Conley]

Would anybody have a part number for aftermarket bearings for WM roller guides?

After normal business hours, naturally, I found a bad bearing.

Right in the middle of a large order, man wants his lumber, I can't hardly stand to be down for a couple of days waiting on parts.

WM # is M04902, any help would be appreciated.

[Bibbyman]

We had a similar thing happen to us on a Saturday morning. 

We took the roller into our small town to an auto supply store that also carries some machine supply.  They were able to pull the bearing out and find a match.  I bet any industrial supply store would have them.

BTW,  we ordered new ones from WM "just in case" and they were half the price of the ones we bought in town and looked to be the same bearing.  But,  I was just glad they had them.

Sorry no part number.  We just rolled the guide roller on the counter and dumped the balls beside it and pointed.  They took it from there.

[gmmills]

  The bearing number is R8-2RS. Make sure to replace both bearings in the roller at the same time. If one failed the other is sure to be worn.

[WH_Conley]

Thanks guys, I'll take both of your advice, I'll ask for that part # AND take the old ones with me.

You are right, one is shot, one on it's last legs. Two in each roller, I'm gettin four of em, insurance.

[MartyParsons]

Hi Guys! Just beware! WM does not see bearing for the lube type roller. We have kits for the non lube type. I do not have an answer why. Something about assembly issues. I have never taken the lube type apart. There might not be an issue??
Thanks Marty

[Bibbyman]

The bearings I got at the part store were perminant lubed as were the ones I got from Wood-Mizer.

[Tom]

If the Lube type guide is the same as the older guides, you can replace them with bearings from the bearing store by removing the seals on the bearing faces that contact each other and cut a groove in the edge of the inside race with a file.  Cut the groove first so that the contaminants don't get into the bearing.  Doing this allows the grease to flow into both bearings.  The seals aren't needed because the bearings are flush against each other inside of the roller.

[gmmills]

   Marty,

      I rebuilt a couple of sets of greasable rollers with WM's rebuild kits. Just pop out one rubber seal on the side of the bearing that faces inward. The rollers that I rebuilt had a notched washer spacer sandwiched between the bearings to allow the grease to enter the bearings. The problem is that the washer has to be kept aligned with the bearing bores when you press the bearings in. I just used a 1/2" bolt through the bearing bores to keep the washer aligned while assembling. These were the new style greasable rollers that were standard on early roller block blade guides. If you have older greasable rollers than Tom's instructions will apply.

[MartyParsons]

Thanks! I knew ther was something that needed to be aligned.
Marty