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Sissy saw recommendations

Started by squarpeg, September 11, 2021, 10:10:17 PM

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squarpeg

I am working on clearing 3 acres of land. Mostly hemlock and pine with a million branches on each tree. I have been using my regular saw I use for fire wood and felling. It is a Stihl 026. Now this is a great saw, and not too heavy. However, I am in my 60's now and I have to admit after about 3 hrs limbing with it, I am beat. Been thinking about what the perfect "old person" limbing saw might be? Something with a long bar so I do not have to be bent over all day, something super light. Rarely am I cutting more then a 3 inch thick branch, but there is literally a 100+ branches on each tree... Anyone offer recommendation on a lighter saw? 

btulloh

Light saw or long bar - pick one.  Tough to find a light saw with a long bar. 

I use a ms170 for limbing. It's light and comes with a 14" bar (maybe 16"). It's just a cheap clamshell saw - really cheap but does amazingly well.  There are plenty of light saws and you can either go with a pro saw or a homeowner saw like this one.  None of them that i know of will run a long bar though.

There are some threads on here about making a delimber out of a wheel rim you may want to check out. Takes the pain and time out of limbing conifers. 

Limbing is tedious and time consuming. Good luck with the quest.
HM126

lxskllr

My echo cs400(40cc) is pretty light, and it comes with an 18" bar standard. I typically use a 16" on it, but it handles the 18" fine, and it you're really only doing stuff in the 3" range, I bet a 20" would work ok, but it might throw the balance off too badly.

btulloh

HM126

Southside

Same concept as a limbing gate used with SYP, only you park the gate and back the twitch into it with the skidder.  Makes life a lot easier.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

beenthere

Quote from: squarpeg on September 11, 2021, 10:10:17 PM
I am working on clearing 3 acres of land. Mostly hemlock and pine with a million branches on each tree. I have been using my regular saw I use for fire wood and felling. It is a Stihl 026. Now this is a great saw, and not too heavy. However, I am in my 60's now and I have to admit after about 3 hrs limbing with it, I am beat. Been thinking about what the perfect "old person" limbing saw might be? Something with a long bar so I do not have to be bent over all day, something super light. Rarely am I cutting more then a 3 inch thick branch, but there is literally a 100+ branches on each tree... Anyone offer recommendation on a lighter saw?
Not a "long" bar, but on a long pole. 7' non-telescoping battery pole saw for limbing the standing trees.
Use the Stihl HTA 65 cordless and find it works great for pruning, limbing, brush cutting, with some obvious limitations. But can prune trees up to 12' without much problem.  Pruned several hundred spruce trees using the cordless and the extra reach worked really great. Didn't have to fight through the limbs to get up close.


If limbing a felled tree, use my Stihl MS261 c-m with 18" bar or the Stihl MS362 with 20" bar.
At 82, am 5 years past that age when I cut for 3 hours straight. It catches up over time.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Al_Smith

Well being 73 all I'll say is you have to learn how to rest a bit from time to time .If three hours is enough why worry, it will still be there tomorrow .As far as saw size I have an 024 Stihl which might be at best a pound lighter than an 026 and with a 16" bar but for my age I'm still limber and can bend .

HolmenTree

Quote from: squarpeg on September 11, 2021, 10:10:17 PM
I am working on clearing 3 acres of land. Mostly hemlock and pine with a million branches on each tree. I have been using my regular saw I use for fire wood and felling. It is a Stihl 026. Now this is a great saw, and not too heavy. However, I am in my 60's now and I have to admit after about 3 hrs limbing with it, I am beat. Been thinking about what the perfect "old person" limbing saw might be? Something with a long bar so I do not have to be bent over all day, something super light. Rarely am I cutting more then a 3 inch thick branch, but there is literally a 100+ branches on each tree... Anyone offer recommendation on a lighter saw?
I would advise to use the Scandinavian short bar bench limbing method with your conifers.
When I work in alot of spruce I use either a 550XP or MS261 with a 14" b/c.

You don't need a long bar when the trunk of your trees are at knee to waist height when laying on the ground. Unless you're back blading the limbs with a skidder.


Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HemlockKing

Ms170 16 inch mini rollomatic bar. About the lightest you can get while still being able to take down a 12 inch tree(although not fun)
A1

Iwawoodwork

I have mentioned on this forum before that the best small saw I have owned is my Echo 370 with a 16" bar. Light, well balanced, easy start, and enough power to both fall and limb. Used in both tough old juniper and Doug fir, I also have 023 & 029 Stihl, 2 small 245? Huskys and a small Remington and a couple 62cc chinese and the Echo 370 is the best for me.

squarpeg

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 12, 2021, 10:33:15 AM
Quote from: squarpeg on September 11, 2021, 10:10:17 PM
I am working on clearing 3 acres of land. Mostly hemlock and pine with a million branches on each tree. I have been using my regular saw I use for fire wood and felling. It is a Stihl 026. Now this is a great saw, and not too heavy. However, I am in my 60's now and I have to admit after about 3 hrs limbing with it, I am beat. Been thinking about what the perfect "old person" limbing saw might be? Something with a long bar so I do not have to be bent over all day, something super light. Rarely am I cutting more then a 3 inch thick branch, but there is literally a 100+ branches on each tree... Anyone offer recommendation on a lighter saw?
I would advise to use the Scandinavian short bar bench limbing method with your conifers.
When I work in alot of spruce I use either a 550XP or MS261 with a 14" b/c.

You don't need a long bar when the trunk of your trees are at knee to waist height when laying on the ground. Unless you're back blading the limbs with a skidder.



That is true if the tree is up off the ground. These are 60-70ft trees. How is it you are working on them off the ground?

John Mc

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 12, 2021, 10:33:15 AM
Quote from: squarpeg on September 11, 2021, 10:10:17 PM
I am working on clearing 3 acres of land. Mostly hemlock and pine with a million branches on each tree. I have been using my regular saw I use for fire wood and felling. It is a Stihl 026. Now this is a great saw, and not too heavy. However, I am in my 60's now and I have to admit after about 3 hrs limbing with it, I am beat. Been thinking about what the perfect "old person" limbing saw might be? Something with a long bar so I do not have to be bent over all day, something super light. Rarely am I cutting more then a 3 inch thick branch, but there is literally a 100+ branches on each tree... Anyone offer recommendation on a lighter saw?
I would advise to use the Scandinavian short bar bench limbing method with your conifers.
When I work in alot of spruce I use either a 550XP or MS261 with a 14" b/c.

You don't need a long bar when the trunk of your trees are at knee to waist height when laying on the ground. Unless you're back blading the limbs with a skidder.
I don't work with softwoods all that much, but when I do, I use that technique. It works well. And it's not just the height. There are lots of good tips in that technique to minimize the need to carry the saw's weight.

For me, using a longer bar for limbing is a disadvantage. You are working at the wrong end of a longer lever. I use a 16" bar, and only reach with the tip of the bar when there is no other way. If I can't set the trees to be limbed up on a "bench", I lower myself with my legs, rather than bending at the waist (My physical therapist wife is always on me about using good body mechanics, which includes using my leg to lower, and working in close to my body whenever it is safe to do so, rather than reaching out.)

Here's a video of Soren Erickson demonstrating and explaining it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX9Xj0faq3g
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

squarpeg

Wow, this is mind blowing. Ok I see. That guy has my exact saw and similar trees. I have never seen this technique. Very , very interesting. I will most certainly try this. Thanks for that. 

John Mc

Quote from: squarpeg on September 12, 2021, 09:45:55 PM
Wow, this is mind blowing. Ok I see. That guy has my exact saw and similar trees. I have never seen this technique. Very , very interesting. I will most certainly try this. Thanks for that.
When you really get the technique down, it's quite a back saver. Limbing especially used to aggravate an old wrestling injury in my neck and upper back. Reaching out and/or cutting with the tip made things worse. Following these techniques have greatly reduced the need to bug my wife to fix me or for making trips to the chiropractor. As a bonus, I'm not nearly as tired at the end of the day.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

In that mid 1980's video Soren is running a 034AV.
Great instructor who went on to train for Husqvarna.  In his younger logging days he was a semi professional boxer.
He credits alot of his knowledge he acquired through some of his students who were also pro loggers.
Soren passed away about 5 years ago at age 77.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: squarpeg on September 12, 2021, 09:45:55 PM
Wow, this is mind blowing. Ok I see. That guy has my exact saw and similar trees. I have never seen this technique. Very , very interesting. I will most certainly try this. Thanks for that.
Soren was a pro logger and other things that had learned the trade from pros then thought about what he was doing and how he was doing it. Over time he developed new techniques based on old techniques with some greater level of refinement. More importantly he found simple ways to teach these things in an accurate manner. 
 I saw this video 5 or 6 years ago and although I don't cut many softwoods, I use this technique if for no other reason than it saves me some muscle usage. Certainly I am no where near as fluent as him as I walk the tree, but the idea works. You have to start slow because as you get going you begin to use the refence point of the bar against the tree instead of where the bar tip is. Resist the urge to reach too far over the tree to get those branches at the 4 o'clock position when you are on the 9 o'clock side. Keep track of that bar tip as you get comfortable. It's a good technique as well as many others Soren gave us.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

snobdds

I bought my dad, who is in his 70's, the lightest pro saw stihl makes...a ms151TC.  It's around 5lbs.  He loves it, especially after having shoulder surgery 6 years ago..  

He loves that he can work a saw again.  

I cut down and buck up the wood.  He limbs and picks up the rounds in the tractor bucket.  It's a good tag team. 

Tom King

I do a lot of work, and actually like the little 180.  I don't have any problems with the built-in chain tightener, and don't ever remember wishing it had a couple of nuts that need a wrench.

I could do without the easy start thing, but it's certainly not hard to use.  You don't have to jerk it, or pull hard on it, but just pull it a few times until it starts on its own.  I pull it a few times until I feel the spring load up, pull it until I feel a little resistance, and a quick, short pull cranks it right up.

I think I've worn out three chains on the current one, and I swear it seems like it's stronger than ever.

It's supposed to have a little more power than a 170, for about the same weight.  I've only run a 170 once, and that belonged to a friend who has to get someone else to sharpen his chains, but it did make me like my little saw a lot better.


 

HolmenTree

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 13, 2021, 10:22:11 AM
Quote from: squarpeg on September 12, 2021, 09:45:55 PM
Wow, this is mind blowing. Ok I see. That guy has my exact saw and similar trees. I have never seen this technique. Very , very interesting. I will most certainly try this. Thanks for that.
Soren was a pro logger and other things that had learned the trade from pros then thought about what he was doing and how he was doing it. Over time he developed new techniques based on old techniques with some greater level of refinement. More importantly he found simple ways to teach these things in an accurate manner.
I saw this video 5 or 6 years ago and although I don't cut many softwoods, I use this technique if for no other reason than it saves me some muscle usage. Certainly I am no where near as fluent as him as I walk the tree, but the idea works. You have to start slow because as you get going you begin to use the refence point of the bar against the tree instead of where the bar tip is. Resist the urge to reach too far over the tree to get those branches at the 4 o'clock position when you are on the 9 o'clock side. Keep track of that bar tip as you get comfortable. It's a good technique as well as many others Soren gave us.
I got a Soren Ericsson 4 VCR cassette training library that I've had for over 30 years. Ones I copied off the original Stihl videos.
I'm missing the clearing saw video at the moment, I loaned it out to another training instructor and he claims he lost it somewhere in his house.

I just sent him a text for a reminder to keep looking for it.
It was a great video on clearing saw use and maintenance.


Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Fishnuts2

I use my little Echo 2511T for a lot of limbing jobs.  It's powerhead weighs a little over 5 pounds and seems to have a lot of power and speed in a small package.  I have the 14" bar on it and bending over with it isn't such a problem with a light saw like this.  There is a rear handled version of these now too, but I haven't had the chance to try one yet.

I'd rather use a light saw setup, instead of a long bar that seems to be clumsy to move around. 

kantuckid

My kind of thread?  ;D My left shoulders wired together, my right has an orthopedic appt next week as it's trying to come apart and my bodies nearing 78 soon-I hope. 
What I refer to as my "senior saw" is a Stihl MS241, both light and powerful but NLA new in the USA and pricey compared to many e.g.'s above that will work OK for the OP. While my Motronic saw as sick this year I began using my Stihl 170 more and really like it for light duty stuff. You can pick these up on the web barely used for not much and they are actually used by some serious users based on size and cost. Forums where saws are the thing mostly the 170 gets lots of arguments but within it's ability it's a winner for me as is the MS241. I bought my 170 for cutting dovetail corners but now it does much more when two saws help. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

WV Sawmiller

  My wife has the Sthil 180 EZ start which works great for small jobs. Th EZ start was designed for women and men with shoulder injuries and such. You pull the cord out slowly and it winds internally then releases on the reverse wind so you never have to pull pull a cord hard or fast.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Tom King

That's what I was talking about.  If you are able to pull a regular one, if you wind it up, and right when you feel it about to take over, give it a short, quick jerk, it will start in fewer tries than letting it crank itself.

I probably wouldn't have bought it myself, to start with, but a friend borrowed my old 018.  His method of keeping his garage locked was parking their extra vehicle close to the old, outswinging doors.  That worked fine, until he needed to drive that vehicle to work one day.  He replaced my stolen 018 with the 180.  I ended up liking it more than I thought I would.

kantuckid

My MS241 has a compression release but actually pulls similar to my 170 saw with none. 
This sissy saw user has an electrical stimulation device he uses on his shoulder while watching the TV news. They do work, which is why athletic trainers have used them for years as do PT's and Chiros.. 
My alternative to pulling starter ropes? :D 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Sauna freak

I'm in a similar situation as I have a woods full of spruce, balsam fir and other such vermin.  Lots of small limbing, also lots of 6" and under birch and some larger pine and spruce for the CSM.  I do a lot of small wood cutting.  I've found the perfect saw to be a magnesium housing Jonsered in the 50 CC range with a 16" bar and very sharp Woodland pro/Carlton full chisel chain.  My particular saw is a Jred 2149 sadly no longer produced.  This is my do-all small wood saw.  I had a 2152 that died a warriors death some years ago on loan to a former buddy.  That saw was great also.  Haven't followed new production models closely, but handling a few at my local dealer a few months ago before helpful tips on here helped me rejuvenate my 2149, a couple of the pro models from Husqvarna and Echo in the 45-51CC range with the edge in ergonomics going to the Echo were the frontrunners for replacement.  All above saws are relatively narrow and long in body, allowing you to get close to the trunk and use it to take some weight off your back and arms.  Proper limbing technique is more important that bar length.  I've found a longer bar to actually increase fatigue while limbing, as you're working against that weight forward to keep it working and undercuts used so frequently while limbing are more difficult and dangerous.

The 50CC range is needed for me as I'm doing occasional larger cuts and felling of larger diameters in remote locations where I don't wish to lug the heavy saw.  I believe you could be well served with a lower displacement pro model saw with a rapid acceleration curve.

And eat, sleep, and breathe Soren Erikssons video posted above!
Sauna... like spa treatment, but for men

Al_Smith

There are a lot of options for small light saws 
 Some think nothing about shelling out 6-700 bucks for one but I'm not one of them .For that amount I could amass enough saws to fill my Ranger pick up and I'd have half of them running within a week of finding them.
For older saws one often over looked is a Poulan s25 DA .These things usually go cheap and they are almost bullet proof .They are a style of top handle but not like say a Stihl 200T .Again if you can't wrench them most likely you should not venture down that road .
Echo made some dandy little 2 cuber rear handle saws and I have one of them given to me . It had spent it's life as a bucket truck saw but like Humpty Dumpty had a great fall that broke all the anti vibration mounts .It took me some time but I did find some mounts .It's a good little runner but alas is also a shelf queen with many others .

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