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General Sawing tips for portable sawyers

Started by WV Sawmiller, February 25, 2018, 09:50:02 PM

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AK Newbie

Haha thanks Resonator!  I know it's only a matter of time before I hit something I didn't intend to with the blade...  Right now I'm paranoid about it but it will likely happen once I start getting a bit more umm confident :)  Great tips, I will definitely use some anti seize.
Thanks Again!
LT28, Logosol M7, Husky 385XP, Stihl MS 250, Echo

Sixacresand

Lots of good information in this thread.   I read the whole thing again this AM because I got a bug and am weaker than puppy pee.  :( 
Checklist.  I am forgetful and/or get distracted before and after a job.  After the truck is loaded, I go over the list and check to see if the items in the truck:  wedges, ax, shovel, chains, chainsaw, file, cant hooks, tapes, etc.  

Center logs with the clamp.  That helps with turning and flipping boards.   

Sticker boards as you go.  
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Magicman

Avoid two words:  Always and Never.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

terrifictimbersllc

If something crosses your mind about getting ready, either do it that instant or write it down.  

On the way out the door:  Phone, wallet, paperwork, blades, clothing, lunch.  

Walk around the rig making sure it is ready for travel.

If you want to have a good day.  :)
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Magicman

Then always walk around the rig just before you leave a job site.  Pull forward a few feet first so you can recover your leveling boards.  Either that or you can recover them when you make a return visit.


 
I have reflective orange tape on most of my tools so that if it is after dark the flashlight will see them.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

   Most of us, portable and stationary, try to get into a routine with a standardized process for typical sawing, set up, break down, etc.

   During sawing, if hydraulic, be sure to lower the toeboards between each log/cant. This helps prevent damage to the hydraulics and helps prevent memory lapses and long wedges.

Before loading each new log includes:

1. Raise the side supports (Most of us have rolled at least one log completely across the mill and can attest it is easier to roll one off than to roll it back on)
2. Lower the clamp and toeboards
3. Once the log is loaded lower the lifting arms part way in case the log rolls back and to be out of the way of the saw head. 

End of the day (Mill staying on site) include:

1. Remove the blade
2. Blow out all sawdust and remove bark and broken wood from under/around the mill.
3. Lock the mill and load and clamp a log on it overnight to deter/annoy any would be thieves in the area
4. Remove the fuel and lube tanks and refill overnight/store in heated storage (for lube tank if chance of freezing)
5. Raise the lifting arms and feet (to keep them from freezing to the ground if cold weather applies)
6. Cover the mill
7. Sweep/Check the area for any tools, bands, etc left out and secure them for the night. 

   I have other standard steps for set up and breakdown for transport at the end of the job not listed here. set up what works for you, follow and fine tune as needed. As Yellowhammer (I think it is) says: Take steps to save steps. This applies to sawing efficiently and making sure you don't forget some small critical step, tool or part that costs you time and money to repair, return for or replace.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

rooster 58

Keyote,
    One way would be to use a 45- 48' trust, and go as deep as you want to have room for your mill and operation 

rooster 58

Last week, I thought I had the mill ready to travel. I took one last look and saw that the clamp was in the wrong position (open half way), which could have been bad if it struck something. So before I leave,  I look under the mill to make sure everything is in travel position 

Darrel

Magicman, seeing you pickaroon in reply 179 reminds me that my pickaroon has mortar on it. It belonged to my father in law and he was a stone mason. But really, mortar on a pickaroon?  I suppose that if there wasn't mortar on it, it wasn't a tool. 
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Magicman

I believe that mine is the only "green from the factory" Hookaroon that Logrite ever produced.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

   Been a while since I've seen this thread and my tip today will actually work just as well for stationary sawyers with hydraulic loaders. Not all of us have the fancy log centering devices like Peter has so we sometimes roll a log on to the loading arms a bit off center. This technique works best with short logs and even better if you happen to have a helper. Load the log on to the arms and if you see it is off center raise the arms just to the point it is ready to roll off on to the bed of the mill. If you have a helper let them help hold it back. When you are right at bed height push the log and swing the long end to the mill at an angle so it will hits the side supports first. You can often move the log a foot or closer to being centered in this fashion. Actually if you wanted to you could roll the log back on to the arms and repeat and get even closer to center.

   I know it is easier to center the logs on the arms first but sometimes these extra few inches make a real difference. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Chuck White

That works really well Howard, we do that a lot!

Another trick we use, since my mill has the old style flipper clamp, we lower the clamp and roll the log onto it (it's 3/4" higher), turn the log and center it that way, repeat as necessary.

Some of the newer mills with the 2-plane clamp can use it to do the same thing!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

WV Sawmiller

Chuck,

   I can see how that would work with my clamp too. Just raise the side supports for safety sake, center the clamp under the log, raise the log just enough to clear the bed, point the long end towards the partially raised loading arms and roll it on to them and it will straighten some, then lift and roll back on and repeat if needed. 

   I use the clamp to spin a cant when I and sawing LE siding. I saw off a flat spot off the top, rotate it 90 degrees to rest against the side supports, start sawing LE siding (Back is square, front is LE) till I get about half way down or till the clamp or side supports interfere, rotate the cant forward 90 degrees, lift slightly with the clamp, spin the cant 180 degrees, lower the clamp and flip the cant back so the same back is against the side supports again with the LE to the front, clamp and saw to the rails.

   Using the clamp as a pivot is a handy trick whether sawing LE siding or centering a log.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

WV Sawmiller

  And of course if you have a hydraulic mill you can the MM's trick of using your Magic Hook over the side supports to move the log a few inches at a time. Hook the hook in the end of the log opposite the end of the mill direction you want to move it. Then you raise or lower the side supports to slide/roll the log in the desired direction. Be careful when lowering the side support not to lower them so far the log rolls off. You may have to stop and raise or lower the side supports and readjust the chain length on your Magic hook  a couple of times to move the log far enough, usually just enough to get it on the toeboard where you can raise it and roll it after that. This only works with the fold away side supports and not the vertical ones that just rise straight up and down.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

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