Author Topic: Pruning question (Read 1876 times)

TimFromNB · « **on:** June 22, 2021, 08:06:54 PM »

Hello fine FF folks,

Pruning noob here.

I have a small red maple sapling growing in my yard. It has grown a good 18" since spring (if not 2ft!). Unfortunately I didn't groom it from the start and it has split into two shoots. Will this fork move upward as the tree grows, or does the new wood get "added" to the top of the tree?

Any chance I can prune the left shoot and have the tree fill in and become straight-ish? Or am I stuck with the fork at that height?

Thanks!

Texas Ranger · « **Reply #1 on:** June 22, 2021, 08:12:18 PM »

I would prune it and treat it with wound dope. Using wound dope is debatable, but I use it. As the tree grows it will "fill around" the fork and in time will be nearly invisible. However, to me it is too close to the fence.

Ianab · « **Reply #2 on:** June 22, 2021, 08:30:46 PM »

New length is added at the growing tip. So if you leave the fork there, that's where it will stay. The trunk(s) will get fatter, but the initial fork will always be in that spot.

At that size it will be OK to remove the smaller fork. There will be a slight kink at that point, but the scar will quickly seal over and become less and less obvious as the tree grows.

And yes it's likely to push the fence over at some point in the future. How long that takes depends on your climate etc.

TimFromNB · « **Reply #3 on:** June 22, 2021, 09:14:59 PM »

Ok, thanks for the info!

The sappling just grew there from a seed that fell from a neighbouring tree. I plan on transplating it in a year or so once it is more established.

PoginyHill · « **Reply #4 on:** June 23, 2021, 06:41:54 AM »

I would transplant now. No sense in waiting. It will just grown more roots that you'll cut when you do move it. But whenever that is, lots of water for the first year. I would either transplant now or cut the Y branch off now, not both. Space the two things apart by a year or more.

WDH · « **Reply #5 on:** June 23, 2021, 07:14:38 AM »

Prune the offending fork now and wait till the dormant season this winter to transplant.

DMcCoy · « **Reply #6 on:** July 28, 2021, 07:36:17 AM »

I would remove the fork now. Use clean clippers. Maples can get verticillium off contaminated clippers. Don't cut into main stem. Mid to late winter(still dormant, no sap) is the best time to transplant. You can stake and tie it if the straightness is important. 3/8" steel rod was what we used pushed into the ground 8-10" and a max tapener(plastic tying tape machine).

HemlockKing · « **Reply #7 on:** July 28, 2021, 08:32:05 AM »

Quote from: Ianab on June 22, 2021, 08:30:46 PM

New length is added at the growing tip. So if you leave the fork there, that's where it will stay. The trunk(s) will get fatter, but the initial fork will always be in that spot.

At that size it will be OK to remove the smaller fork. There will be a slight kink at that point, but the scar will quickly seal over and become less and less obvious as the tree grows.

And yes it's likely to push the fence over at some point in the future. How long that takes depends on your climate etc.

Generally how far up do you just let the maple do what it wants to do? Top 1/3rd? They always fork

wisconsitom · « **Reply #8 on:** July 28, 2021, 09:13:37 AM »

I'd suggest reading up on "subordination pruning", which is everything you want to do with a young broadleaf tree. Very basically, you want to shorten up branches and especially, competing leaders, while leaving the top or main leader alone. Be wary especially of v-shaped crotches. These will split out later. Competing leaders are not necessarily removed in total, at least not immediately, but shortened up to a lateral branch or branchlet, so as to slow this stem down. Low branches, in this scheme, are called temporary branches. Shorten them up first, remove later if in your way.

Forest trees need no such treatment because they are close together and the shade they cast on their neighbors keep the main, terminal leader in charge. Take that same tree and plant it out in the open, and now the branching can explode and these branches can grow large. You're trying to delay this profusion of branching, and attempting to keep more of the energy going to that terminal leader.

Later in the tree's life, when its up and out of the way, it is okay for it to develop its mature, rounded crown. We just try to not have this happen eight feet off the ground!

mike_belben · « **Reply #9 on:** July 28, 2021, 10:26:00 AM »

Im with texas ranger

wisconsitom · « **Reply #10 on:** July 29, 2021, 08:52:59 AM »

Tree wound dressings are intended to make the person applying the material feel better. They do nothing for the tree.

BradMarks · « **Reply #11 on:** July 29, 2021, 11:40:10 AM »

I saw the pic and like others thought there goes the fence.

HemlockKing · « **Reply #12 on:** July 29, 2021, 12:37:37 PM »

Yeah one thing is for sure mate and that is the tree needs to be transplanted further away from the fence, then worry about pruning

KEC · « **Reply #13 on:** August 07, 2021, 06:08:06 PM »

Tree is way too close to the house, too. As far as I know it should be tranplanted in the fall.

mike_belben · « **Reply #14 on:** August 14, 2021, 11:19:17 AM »

In 45 years that full sun red maple will be 2 to 3ft across and have roots running the length of your foundation, driveway, neighbors place, septic, etc etc.. Anywhere normal runoff goes. Ive counted 3/8 to half inch rings on many planted landscape maples here in TN. And i stumped one right next to a house.. Rootball 4 feet below grade on a double trunk tree with maybe 16 to 20" legs

Maple will find your leachfield quite far away as well so keep that in mind. Shes thirsty.

Keep them pruned line an apple tree and you can get a nice low bushy brocolli top for shade that doesnt threaten to crush your house like a natural tall single stem one.

Seachaser · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2023, 07:05:38 AM »

Too close to the fence and a forked trunk are no-nos.
Tree will heal over but you need a central leader.

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