WATER IN OIL HELP

[dail_h]

   I hadn't used m wood splitter for several years,so the other day I drug it out,changed the engine. The old techcumce was shot,and I had bought a new 5hp honda to put onit,checked,no hydraulic oil,went and got 5 gal,filled it up. Stinking honda started first pull.....let everything warm up,and tried it. Worked ok,'cept it seemed to me that it worked faster idling than it did at speed.Split 8 -10 blocks of wood ,no change .Went out this morning to split some,got a coupla loads sold,busted the return line to the tank,my new oil looks like a milkshake.
   How do I get the water out of the system,and can I do it without losing my oil? I had to strain to get that,aand to tell the truth,I just can't afford to pour it out. Maybe catch it in a clean metal bucket,and heat it a little to boil the water off? I'm near desperate here.
   About the ram moving slower with the engine turning at speed,is this likely caused by the water,or have I got other problems? I'm going back out so I may not get your answers for a while.

[KnotBB]

One probable source of the water is condensation in the oil tank.  It happens in car gas tanks all the time.  The best prevention is keeping the tank full.

You need to change the oil  :-[.   Severe corrosion (rust) will result if you don't.  I don't know of a way to get the water out that is affordable by us common folks.  You might even have to change it twice. What you now have is homogenized oil/water.    Down the road you might look at putting a filter on the system which is what they do on commercial heavy duty hydralic systems.  Keeping the fluid in a hydralic system clean is the the key to long system life.  Somebody else might have a better answer.

On the runs faster when engine is slower:
If you have a drive belt I'd check to see if its slipping.  It could be glazed or just worn out.  Old shade tree trick was to rub bar soap on the belt while it was running.  Works for awhile.   Also check the pulley alignment, they need to be paralell and in line.  A straight edge put against two pulleys will tell the story, should touch in four places (both rims X 2).  Allignment might have gotten tweaked when you changed the engine. 

[Dangerous_Dan]

Replacing the return line filter would be the first thing I did or checked. If you have a 2 stage pump a plugged filter will make it run slow.  Normally the pump its running -high volume low pressure-. At idle the return filter is probably not much of a restriction, but when you rev it up the filter can't flow the high volume of oil and the pressure rises so the pump kicks into -low volume high pressure-. Like when your splitting a big knot.
Make any sense? To do an A1 job don't forget to also:
Remove and clean inlet suction strainer.
Drain oil tank. I like to wash hydraulic tanks with diesel and vacuum with a shop vac to get it nice and clean.
Drain all lines, valve body and the cylinder.
Refill with new oil.

[Bro. Noble]

Oil floats on water.  Let the milky mixture set till it separates and then open the drain plug (if there's one on the bottom of the resivour) and let the water drain out.   Do this to get the water out everytime it sets for a while.

[J_T]

Got a little water in my tractor loader got it out got it back  : Said to heck with it ben running that way more than two years and still going . My loader is not with the transmion but on it's own . It may get it sooner or later but it is still working and till it does I an't fixing it again  :D :D

[isassi]

Due to the properties of hydraulic oil, it tends to "hold" moisture. I have a backhoe that had the fluid and filter changed a few times and still shows a milky apearance with no ill effects. The only way is to drain off what you can after the oil is good and hot and allowed to settle for several minutes, then try to refill with a lower gravity oil which will not hold moisture as well. If you really want it clean, drain, then run with kerosene, but not using high pressure, for a few minutes and change the filter and refill completely with new oil. Hydraulic oil here is usually $18 for five gallons....Buy the generic stuff from the auto parts stores.

[Don_Papenburg]

A good option is to check with your farm impiment dealer or a large general contractor that has to change oil in there equipment .  The used hydralic oil will do the job good enough till you can flush the water out of the system.  Get enough to run and dump a few times.    Nuttun rong with good used oil.

[Paul_H]

Along the same lines as Don's advice,check with the scrap iron guys around you.When I drained the fluids in the old yarders last fall for the scrappers,I got 20 gals of good clean ATF out of the torque of an old Koering log loader and around 50 gals of good 90W from the tank undercarriage on the yarders.

Some of the oils were water contaminated but most was just fine.I kept some of the ATF for my resaw but the rest was put in the waste oil bin.

[dail_h]

   Thanks guys, I think I'm going to empty ,and save for later the oil that's in it,flush everything with kero,or diesel(can use that on my saw guides),refill with new oil. Boy I sure hate to spend the money ----again

[UNCLEBUCK]

I leave 5 gallon buckets full of waste oil from oil changes standing outside and when it rains the next day it looks like a milk shake , a few days later its black . Seperates again and is black . Bro Nobles idear is a good one