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Lane Circle Mill Project

Started by Mooseherder, July 13, 2009, 10:02:22 PM

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Mooseherder

I haven't made any lumber with this mill yet.  It was a fully operational Cedar fencing mill that kept a few people busy back in its day.  The previous owner and I are the ones who took it apart and moved it to our place.  Unfortunately the progress on this mill won't happen until next years work Vacation. :'(
If you're going to be taking your Granddaddy's mill apart make sure you document and take plenty of pictures. 

btd

I have most everything home now only a couple of pieces of iron for the track  and the main shaft  from the pto to bring home now. I set out to take lots of pictures but ended up only taking a few here and there. Tried posting some last week but I am not to swift with technology, good job for my wife I guess. Its hard to get alot done with a job and other commitments so hopefully you can make the most of your vacation time.

Mooseherder

Hard to believe I'm 10 years into this process. ::) :-[ :-\ :D  My reason for not working more on it this year is I did a lot of TSI in my woodlot, mowed a lot of grass, took a daily nap and cooked a lot of food on my grill.  Made a lil more progress on the building putting up removable panels that lock into each other and come off quickly on each side of the mill track.  I had made some front doors last year while up there.  I ran out of paint and energy for now so I'll paint it next time or the time after that.


  

  

 

I also organized the building.  It's amazing the amount of stuff one collects.  I have 6 gas containers there and 5 here.  Here is my northern scrench collection.  I haven't counted how many are here in my garage.  I know someone out there is drooling right about now. ;D


 

WDH

You are scrench rich.  Say that ten times fast.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Mooseherder

You should see my screwdriver collection.  ;)

WDH

A scrench is a screwdriver too, so you are double dipping. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Mooseherder

And now my favorite type screws are torques making everything I have obsolete.  Regular and Phillips should be outlawed. :D

bandmiller2

Moosedrover, please kick this project up a notch I want to see sawdust before the grim reaper catches up to me. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Looks good Moose. Now you can have a big STEW cooking and invite us over to look at your screw drivers.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Mooseherder

I have restarted and am reworking this whole project.  Decided to raise the Tracks off the concrete and put it on 6x6 cross ties.  One reason was to avoid having to notch the Track like the old one was.  This notch is where the cable drum shaft went thru.   I had saved this portion of the old beam for reference.  They protected what was left of the Track with tin from sawdust that was shooting down into the pit.

 

First had to take the side enclosures off the building and roll the Carraige out and off the rails.


  

  

 

Then focused on raising the Tracks.  It is 44 feet long.  Thankfully my attempt to jack up the Track up as one unit worked.  Otherwise,  it would have been a lot more work.  I put a bottle jack under a cross tie in the pit and jacked there first and worked outward in two directions with 2 jacks under the steel support braces.


  

  

 

The pit floor had never been poured with concrete.  I had focused on the side walls during the pour.  It took 12 bags mixed in a tub as my punishment.


 

Now the fun begins with painting.  The Track is done.  I am halfway done with the cross ties.


  

  

 

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

bandmiller2

Herder, good thing you don't have a Detroit Diesel I wouldn't want to be sequestered in a tin shed with a screamer. Are you planning windows or electric lights, looks like it may be dark in the sawyers box. Good lighting on the carriage and husk is important especially to spot hard wear and small stones in the bark and making milling decisions. Glad your back at it. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

customsawyer

Making some great progress I see. It looks great.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Ron Wenrich

How are you tying in your husk to your track?  I'm also assuming you're raising your husk up, as well.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Mooseherder

There will be a wall built in between the Motor room and Sawyer's area after start up.  The motor room will also become the tool room as I have that set up already.  The Sawyers room will have to be modified along with sections of my building walls on both sides next to the Tracks.  The other side wall will have to be modified to accomodate the boards coming off the saw onto the roller conveyor.  There isn't enough light or space in there but that will be addressed after I have the layout working.  The building was a rush job while on a vacation and I knew it would be modified later.  I did a horrible job documenting and taking pictures taking things apart.  A lot of cogitating and cypering going on right now many years later especially with the Cable Drum assembly and the overhead sissor mechanism that carries the hydraulic lines to the Carraige.  There is so much more to do with no instructions.  Only memories of taking it apart too long ago.  All this stuff is heavy and working by myself is a challenge.   The off bearing rollers are in my way right now but way too heavy to move without a tractor.  If It was spun around 180 degrees it would be perfect.  I need 3 more people to show up all at the same time. :D

Mooseherder

Quote from: Ron Wenrich on August 25, 2017, 08:01:50 AM
How are you tying in your husk to your track?  I'm also assuming you're raising your husk up, as well.
Yes, I am raising the Husk as well.  I bought two 6x6 yesterday that will go under the Tracks and Husk Frame.  The Husk Frame side has a big enough notch that gives me some adjustment room for the cable drum shaft.  The 6x6 will be bolted to the floor.  The Tracks and husk will be bolted to the 6x6.  I have to figure something out that allows me lead adjustments.  Do you think this link will be enough?   This is another area I failed to document properly.  Ron, How soon could you and Jeff get up here?! :D

Ron Wenrich

Quote from: Mooseherder on August 25, 2017, 08:26:01 AM
Ron, How soon could you and Jeff get up here?! :D

Depends how deep of pockets you have.   :D

Lead adjustments are made at the mandrel bearings, not at the track.  You want your track perpendicular to the husk and attached.  Your description sounds fine.  Run your track straight off the ones at the husk.  If you don't, you'll have a thickness problem from end to end.  The guide track is the critical one.

All the cable drums I've been around have hung under the track.  The only thing you need above the cable line is the top of the drum.  That usually is enough to clear the husk.  I've been around ones that use a single cable, and ones that use 2 cables.  The single ones work on friction and a lot of loops.  The 2 cable system uses one for the front and one for the back.  Usually the back one snaps before the front one. 

I'm curious how your pantograph works.  The ones I've always seen have always gone out away from the sawyer.  Those mills always had a sawyer's cab.  I don't see where you'll have room to go that way.   Depending how you rig things up, you might have hoses hanging underneath that will reduce your clearance. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Herder, it helps if you have a bolt and lock nut in a heavy short section of angle iron to push the arbor bearing to adjust lead. I would check you tube videos there are several mills there that use the pantograph system it should help with the geometry. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Mooseherder

So if the top right of the Husk under the board splitter is fixed into the 6x6 with a bolt, then that allows or becomes a pivot point. The bolt on the bottom of the husk opposite of that pivot bolt moved left or right will give me the lead adjustment right?  I'm working my way backwards to see where my building modifications need to be.  Once the layout works I can work on a Sawyers cab area on the same side the logs are coming in.   I have more plans for the off bearing side with resaw and edger after.


 
My first attempt on the Pantograph a couple years ago didn't work but I think I've got it now.  Just have to get the Carriage back on the Track to see.  If not, there are only 2 other ways it could go.
I am looking for housing that would hold the cable drum shaft now. 

Ron Wenrich

No, your husk is stationary.  You don't want that to be moving around.  You want that to be as steady as can be.  Your pivot point is in your mandrel.  If you have 3 bearings, you loosen the center bearing and adjust your mandrel left or right. When you loosen at the front bearing, your pivot point is on your rear bearing.  If you loosen from your rear bearing, your pivot point is your front bearing.  An 1/8" movement at the center is worth a whole lot more than a movement further out on your arc.  Most guys work from the front bearing to adjust lead.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Mooseherder

Okay, now I got ya.
I'll get a picture of the mandrel adjustment screws tommorrow.  I think there is one at each of the 3 bearings.  It was there all along but now I know what its for. :)
Edit:
I found an older picture of the mandrel before painting.  You can see the adjustment areas to the left of my hand.


 

Mooseherder

Here they are.

 
Got a coat of paint on the Carriage.  The back carriage beam has to be replaced because it is rotten in the back corner.  I am going to continue with layout for now but It'll be another obstacle before start up.  I got the 16' PT 6x6 already.  It's gonna be a blast rebuilding . ::)
Thankfully they had already replaced the front beam at some point.


 


 
For those not interested in Sawmills I've started a second row of screnches in the tool area.;D


 



Mooseherder

I got the Carriage back onto the Tracks with a come a long and ramps after finishing the Ties and painting.


  

  

  

  

 
It didn't make sense to hook up anything else because it would have to be taken apart when I replace the Carriage beam.  I've decided to wrap this up for the season.  Other projects need attention here before winter.  Got one side done.  Until next time folks. ;)


 

JRWoodchuck

For those not interested in Sawmills I've started a second row of screnches in the tool area.;D

Do those kind of people actually exist?
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

customsawyer

See if you just stayed down south you wouldn't have to wrap it of for the season. ;)
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

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