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How bad did I get ripped

Started by chainsaw_louie, December 17, 2006, 10:34:26 AM

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sawguy21

SD is referring to the blade nut on a brushcutter, not a chainsaw.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

beenthere

The one that has the reverse threads? 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SwampDonkey

Yip, the left hand threaded nut with teflon or plastic ? inside the thread.

They are $12 for a Husky or ECHO brush saw. DOH!!   :o
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

sawguy21

And metric. Not your run of the mill hardware item.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

SwampDonkey

You know more about it than me possibly. It might be metric if your talking about thread count, don't know. But it takes a 3/4 inch wrench on a Stihl FS 550. Doesn't cost anymore to spin the thread left, then it does right. I know the volumes being made might not be the same, but there are a lot of brush saws used in silviculture. Probably, in all probability way more in Europe. A lot of areas in the states never thin trees pre-commercially or of significant acreage. Some states don't have many big clearcut tracts, which in itself can be a good thing.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

beenthere

Probably metric nut that takes a 19mm wrench, however the 3/4 SAE will work because they are so close to being the same.

Which brush cutter blade do you use?
I use the circular saw blade w/chisel teeth for the brush cutter?. They are for small tree stems (up to 1-2") and take a round file to sharpen them. I find they cut better than the flat toothed blades that need setting (similar to the buzz-saw blade pic'd couple days ago).

Edit
I edited my typo. I wondered where SD got the impression I used the blade that needed setting. I only use a round file to sharpen the teeth that are like teeth in a chainsaw chain. Long ago I used the flat tooth blades that needed setting, but they are not so good for woody stems.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SwampDonkey

1 tooth per inch. The teeth are preset on the new blades they are selling, but i have had to set them out of the box a couple years ago. You still have to check set every other day. We file them with a round file at 20 degree hook. A flat file is used on an old blade if you want to get a few more days from it, then sharpened with a round file as usual. They are about $20 per blade at the shops. Same blade works on Husky and Echo also.

beenthere, you might find that brush saw has more bite if it's set. I had a light Deere brush saw 20 years ago and I was a green horn at thinning and never new they needed to be set, let alone sharpened. ;D :D :D I was just cutting high bush cranberry and mountain ash in the back yard. Took for ever on 1 acre. :D :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

ElectricAl

We just bought a new MSE180 electric chainsaw. Linda called 3 local dealers, 2 had the same price for a unit with a 16" bar. The third claimed that a 16" bar was a $10 upgrade >:(

We bought the saw from the third dealer because he is a pleasent helpfull owner, even though he was $10 higher.

We had been buying $50 remington electric chain saws from the hardware store. They last 8 months to nearly a year.

This time we decided to see if a Stihl can last 8 years for our $400.

The actual price was $379.99 plus 19.00 in tax so $398.99 out the door :-\

The first thing I noticed was a Stihl 16" bar is only 14" from the spir to the tip. Where as the Remington was 16" from the spir to the tip.  Not sure if we can get a 18" bar to get the 16" We're use to ???
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

SwampDonkey

My uncle had a Husky for 20 years just for stove wood cutting, until someone stole it this summer. I have a Husky model 50 for around the same price as your Stihl, with 16" bar. Had it since 2001 I think, just for firewood and cleaning up dead fall along the road. I'm pretty sure it will last awhile if you take proper care of it.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

bitternut

SwampDonkey that nut with the plastic insert is called a nylock nut. Thats supposed to prevent the nut from backing off but they wear out pretty fast if you are changing the blade very often. I think I would get myself a small bottle of loctite and a few spare regular nuts. A few drops should work when changing blade.

Tony_T

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on December 17, 2006, 10:34:26 AM
I needed a new chain for my 24" bar / 84 cutters and didnt want to wait and buy from the Madsens or Bailey's so I went to my local mower/saw/etc shop.  They had Stihl brand chain - 3/8" full comp, chisel, round gullet for a whopping total $39 incl tax.  I bought it but I sure wasnt happy about it.  I have heard that Stilh is the most expensive chain but that is a lot expecially when Madsens is selling 2 for 1 and Baileys is about $14 plus s/h of course.

Ouch!

Tim

Somebody has 3 of the same 84 dL RS chains and new ES stihl bar on ebay for $99

Al_Smith

 Well,in answer to the nut for the clearing saw,I did a little research through that mountain of parts lists I have.I could not find the machine in question but found two different sizes listed for the others that use nuts,instead of screws.

The two sizes are M 10 by 1 and M 12 by 1.5 .Some are left hand flange nuts some are just left hand hex nuts,both I assume these are Nylock type.

I might have figured before I even looked it that it would be some thing out of the ordinary,as is the typical Stihl method of doing things.

Sooo,I'm afraid if you own one of these clearing saws and loose the nut you just have to bite the bullit,so to speak.Go to the dealer,hat in hand,and poney up the money.Get your nut and then grumble under your breath and exit the shop before you blow a gasket :D

Then on the other hand you could find a piece of hex stock,chuck it up in a lathe and make a nut.All this will most likely take a couple of hours,not counting the mistakes you might make and have to throw away,as would be my case.

Ah,but alas,all in all remember,this is some of the finest stuff made but of course this comes with a price,high,I might add. ;D

SwampDonkey

bitternut, we leave the blade attached and sharpen with a good pair of gloves. Just sacrifice a tree and cut it high, make a notch in the top of the stump. Set the blade in it and have a screw driver handy to brake the blade and sharpen.  8)

beenthere, I was looking at the Stihl accessory page and I didn't see a blade like you described. I saw a blade with finer teeth. I guess I thought that was the blade you had.

Sorry about that.  ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

beenthere

Stihl part no. 4112 713 4203.  Chisel tooth saw blade for brushcutters.  On their website too.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SwampDonkey

ok, beenthere. It must not be available in Canada.

Here's the page I was at. Ones we use are bottom right.

http://www.stihl.ca/products_trimBrushClear_cuttingHeads.asp

I don't even see a search function on the Canadian site, to find a part number.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

sawguy21

A couple of thoughts. I believe all brushcutters rotate counter-clockwise as viewed from the top so a left hand thread nut or bolt is necessary to keep it from backing off. Apparently the direction of rotation is a safety standard to help reduce the risk of kickback as most operators are right handed and sweep right to left. I am a southpaw and have learned to live with it. ;D
Also, Lock-tite on a nylock fastener defeats the purpose, the stuff attacks the nylon ring.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Furby

Anyone check the size of a cheap no name weed wacker nut?
Some have a plastic bump head on them that you can pull off the nut.
Not all of them are nylock though.

SwampDonkey

Probably still around $10 bucks Furby.  :(  Remember that Deere I mentioned, pretty light duty saw and your right, no nylock and $10. Now it would be less of a blow if the guy would hand you the 4 nuts sealed in the bag, but he insists on removing only one from the bag before heading to the till.  ::) You realize that's nearly half a day's pay for 4 measly nuts.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Furby


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