Hey guys,
I've been lurking on this site for a while and have wanted to build a stationary sawmill for the past 10 years.
I Live on a small farm with 13 acres. This saw would be hobby/farm projects.
I purchased the Model 1900 kit from Linn Lumber this summer. Well, its winter! I had dreams of making a making a large 50 inch saw but came to my senses before I started the build. I scrounged up enough tube and plate to get started. (southern for dumpster diving) Will be building all the saw frame and gantry out of Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4
Question for anyone who has built a Linn style mill.
At what point do you need to worry about top heavy or tipping over?
Have not decided on power - leaning toward a 15 hp 3 phase 215lbs
Still need track wheels - probably use Linn's
Method for raising and lowering- probably use Linn's manual
New blades and bits are set to arrive next week. Can't wait to get started.
Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4
That seems way to light for a saw frame. Steve
Wait for @Crusarius (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=35059) to chime in, he just finished up a very professional Linn Lumber build :)
Thanks DWyatt, I appreciate the compliment.
foamnone, welcome to the forum. As DWyatt said I just finished up a build. Well kinda finished, but is it ever really finished? :)
Your terminology may be different from mine. For gantry you mean mast? The part that supports the sawing head. Right?
If you are going 2 post your going to want something rectangular not square. Square will want to bow with the weight of the head hanging off the front of it. if you are going 3 or 4 post then that will be overkill for what you will be hanging off of it. I have a 110# 22 hp engine mounted on mine along with 5 gallon fuel can and the biggest deep cycle battery I could get. So I am estimating about 210-220 pounds hanging off the mast (mostly off the front). My mast is also only 2 post. I used 2x6x.188 wall. With the 2.5" for the mast what are you going to find to slide over the top of that? The Linn plans call for 2x2 for the mast and 2.5x2.5x.188 for the sleeve over the mast. If you are doing a 4 post that is a very solid setup.
I am regretting the 2 post setup. with the 2x6x.188 verticals they are great (could have used thinner wall). but the single 2x6 connecting the two uprights was a mistake. That piece twists and causes a "walking" motion when pushing the head down the track. This is on the list for upgrade in the future.
for the sawframe I have the same question. if you are using 2.5" what are you going to find to slide over it for the adjustable side?
My advice to you is keep it as light as possible. if it wasn't for my bed design using 2x2x.188 and 2x6x.188 then I would have used .120 wall for everything. I already had the thicker wall in stock.The weight savings is pretty substantial by the time you get to the end product. Now the catch 22. The Linn plans call for drilling and tapping the 2"x.188 wall. if you are using .120 wall you will need inserts.
So now you have to decide on whether to build light and add cost for inserts (which is alot easier than drilling and tapping) or build heavy and be able to drill and tap everything. My opinion, smaller lighter stiffer is the better way to go. Especially with parts you are pushing manually.
HUGE NOTE FOR ANYONE BUILDING A MILL... MAKE SURE WHATEVER YOU BUY FOR THE CARRIAGE TO ROLL ON IS COLD ROLLED. The mill scale on the hot rolled makes for a very rough rolling surface. When I build V2 the rails will be cold rolled.
I have lots more thoughts and ideas I will be happy to share. For now, I think my ramblings have confused you enough :) Feel free to checkout my build thread in my sigline below. If you have any questions at all do not be afraid to ask.
Where are you located? I would be happy to let you come check out the mill. It was a fun build.
Quote from: Crusarius on January 10, 2019, 07:27:05 AM
Your terminology may be different from mine. For gantry you mean mast? The part that supports the sawing head. Right?
My idea was to use 2.5 tube everywhere the plans called for 2 because it is what I have. The only thing I am looking at buying for the mast and sawing head is material for a yoke. 3x3 3/16 with shim or build it out of flat stock.
I'm concerned about hole placement with the larger stock. Any suggestions on where to focus?
If you are going 2 post your going to want something rectangular not square. Square will want to bow with the weight of the head hanging off the front of it. if you are going 3 or 4 post then that will be overkill for what you will be hanging off of it. I have a 110# 22 hp engine mounted on mine along with 5 gallon fuel can and the biggest deep cycle battery I could get. So I am estimating about 210-220 pounds hanging off the mast (mostly off the front). My mast is also only 2 post. I used 2x6x.188 wall. With the 2.5" for the mast what are you going to find to slide over the top of that? The Linn plans call for 2x2 for the mast and 2.5x2.5x.188 for the sleeve over the mast. If you are doing a 4 post that is a very solid setup.
I was planning of following the 4 post design from Linn's plans (just larger material). The slides-either 3x3 or build out of plate. My kit didn't come with any steel. I planned on making a larger saw and got a discount by not ordering as shipping any steel from Linn. I'm sure while building the saw head I will come up with a "fix" or will tweak my plans for the mast.
Please tell me any ideas you are planning on V2.
Where are you located? I would be happy to let you come check out the mill. It was a fun build.
I used 3x3 x1/4 and used flat stock and built the sleeves, I know it is not what you have but the flat stock works good I lined the sleeve with 1/4 " Teflon and kept the tolerance tight. I have 1 1/4" acme screws to raise and lower the head that is powered by a wheel chair motor so for works good.
but I think that Crusarius has an outstanding build and I would look closely at what he has.
hole placement should still be the same. the only thing you will have to watch for is the 3/4" diameter adjuster holes for the guides. Make sure they are close enough to the bandwheels so there is enough adjustment to properly support the band.
V2.0 I am thinking about changing the direction of rotation. All the blades I have ordered so far are flipped for the opposite rotation. So I need to flip them to cut, then flip them back to sharpen. Not a big deal but not something I care to continue to do. This will also allow me a more balanced setup so there is less hanging off the front of the mast. Will make up and down quite a bit easier.
Still thinking about dual width as well.
I have lots of other ideas that are escaping me right now. But it seems the more I design and play with what will work for me its getting closer to a woodmizer LT-28. :)
How are you going to power that 3 phase motor? :new_year:
Quote from: muggs on January 10, 2019, 10:12:14 AM
How are you going to power that 3 phase motor? :new_year:
I have a 50 hp rotary phase converter left over from a project a couple of years back. I used it to power a 25hp granulator for shredding copper wire. We moved to all 100hp shredders and obviously made my phase converter obsolete
I was able to find a cutoff of 3x3 1/4 that worked out pretty good for the yoke. Had to shave the 'weld seam' on the inside of the larger tube. (more work than I planned)
I welded an old bastard file to the middle of a 3 ft piece of 1x1 tube and used the 3 ft file to smooth the seam so the smaller tube fits snugly. The yoke is only 15 inches and could attack from both sides
Quote from: bwstout on January 10, 2019, 10:06:07 AM
I have 1 1/4" acme screws to raise and lower the head that is powered by a wheel chair motor so for works good.
Can you tell me more about your acme screws. Where bought, bushing/nut, did you mill the ends yourself? - will ask you about motor later.... just need to iron out the footprint
Quote from: ladylake on January 10, 2019, 06:40:20 AM
Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4
That seems way to light for a saw frame. Steve
The plans for the 36 inch saw call for 2x2 3/16. I have somewhere between 0 - no sawmill experience. i'm using the steel I had so I can spend in other areas ... hydraulics
Surplus Center is your friend for ACME screws. I used 1 in by 5 TPI, if you use 4 TPI you can gauge in turns a little easier. Hand cranking will get old super fast, as a 12 inch move would be 48 turns....you will be Mr. Noodle arms in short order. I use the stock nuts.
My Linn 190A has a 18hp Briggs, 5 gallon water jug, battery, motor/gearbox for the raise/lower on the sawhead and I have never even wondered about the strength of the design. Electric sounds great, no gas, oil, starting, exhaust and noise. Perfect.
My carriage does "rack" some as well, as I use a HF winch to pull from only one side.
Since that is the direction of the saw blade it does not seem to affect anything. By far the most challenge is log handling, I need a bigger tractor! Logs are heavy SOB's.
Caster City has 4x2 v groove wheels for $18 each.
Quote from: scrout on January 10, 2019, 05:29:55 PM
Surplus Center is your friend for ACME screws. I used 1 in by 5 TPI, if you use 4 TPI you can gauge in turns a little easier. Hand cranking will get old super fast, as a 12 inch move would be 48 turns....you will be Mr. Noodle arms in short order. I use the stock nuts.
My Linn 190A has a 18hp Briggs, 5 gallon water jug, battery, motor/gearbox for the raise/lower on the sawhead and I have never even wondered about the strength of the design. Electric sounds great, no gas, oil, starting, exhaust and noise. Perfect.
My carriage does "rack" some as well, as I use a HF winch to pull from only one side.
Since that is the direction of the saw blade it does not seem to affect anything. By far the most challenge is log handling, I need a bigger tractor! Logs are heavy SOB's.
Can you post a pic of your mast setup? I thought I was the only one with racking issues. you are correct though, it does not effect the cut that I can see. But it sure does take alot more work to push it through when its walking.
All the weight of my carriage is focused in 1 spot I want to do power feed one day and it will be on one side. Pretty sure it will still work since I have tried just pushing from the other side and it worked better. May switch the operator side to the sawdust side.
Crusarius (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=35059)
What is the advantage of a 2 post design? My plan is to build a stationary mill that runs on electricity. Weight is not an issue (not moving). More concerned about building something rock solid.
Phase 2 will be putting hydraulic drive and turner...yadda yadda-dreaming big. So, any racking is something I want to prevent.
Last question for now, how tall are your acme rods? - How high can you get your blade over the deck
Advantage I saw in the 2 post design was less steel, and I like to be different and unique. It did work well but in hindsight I would not do it again. For the moving parts of your mill you still want to be mindful of weight. The more it weighs the more motor you need to move it.
With just 2 vertical posts the sawframe slides on both of them. This makes it quite a bit more challenging to mount anything to the mast. Like my log scale, my raise lower switch, the throttle... The weight was negligible between the 2 designs. I went for unique and regret it. Even if it was 3 post it would be better. That way I would have a place to mount stuff. I want to have my hookaroon and cant hook connected to the carriage so I do not always have to remember where I set them and stop setting them on the bed. I already tried cutting the cant hook in half down the length of it.
If you are going stationary do not limit yourself to putting the turning and flipping on the mill. With a proper overhead setup you could do all that as well as move logs or cut beams along a chainfall.
The threaded rods are 48" long. I can raise the blade (last I remember) 38" above the bed. This may have changed in some of my revisions.
Since you are stationary I would think your going to end up in a barn or something but one of my thoughts was to build a roof right into the carriage and at the end of the day just raise the sawframe all the way up to keep the engine out of the weather.
I started out with a 2 post design as well. I noticed mine was racking as well during trial cuts. Mine was built with 2x2x.25 steel with 2.5 slide. I picked up some 1x1to add 2 more posts and a top cross bar. That and a couple triangle plats on top stiffened the carriage significantly for minimal cost.
That was my thought as well ktm. The only trick I was going to add to that was to integrate a roof into it so I could park the sawmill at the top and the engine be out of the weather. This way I would not have to wait for it to cool and remember to cover it when done sawing.
Can you define what you mean by racking. Sorry for the dumb question
when you push on one side of the carriage that side will move, then after the frame twists enough the other side will move causing a racking / walking motion.
In ideal situations you do not want the racking. It does not effect cut quality from what I have observed but it makes it quite a bit more work pushing smoothly through the log.
New miter saw blade and the small mag drill bits came in early (7/16-3/4). My plan is to tack the saw head together and then drill the holes using the half inch plate as spacers for the bearings (yoke side) and use 1/2 inch plate and 1/4 plate on the other end.
Looks like I am out of 'research' time and gotta start building.
Should I start a build thread?
Nah nobody is interested in it.
ARE YOU KIDDING!?!?!?!?!? OF COURSE WE NEED A BUILD THREAD :)
Quote from: Crusarius on January 11, 2019, 01:56:33 PM
when you push on one side of the carriage that side will move, then after the frame twists enough the other side will move causing a racking / walking motion.
In ideal situations you do not want the racking. It does not effect cut quality from what I have observed but it makes it quite a bit more work pushing smoothly through the log.
I have a 2 post but never had that issue
how are they connected? that may be why. mine is just single 2x6x.188
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/20160515_201116~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463372412)
here is a pic of it back when i was building it
The square must resist twisting more and the clearance on your slides. Could have also been buildup on the rails for me. I was cutting without my scrapers on to see if I really needed them. I do :)
Thinking of adding a compression spring between the yoke and tensioner. Something that could give a little if needed
when you run your tensiometer on the blade, how many psi do you have to have it at for proper tension? @Crusarius (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=35059)
im not sure how much mine will be, being a 2" x .050" blade, 25' long, but i was thinking of adding a spring to my idea side as well, but not yet knowing how much psi its going to take to tighten my blade, i don't really know how heavy/strong of spring to get, and i was thinking of using a jack bolt for my tension, but the plans and the builder/seller of the plans used a port-a-power, and i think it was taking 3000psi to achieve the correct tension on his mill, and mine will be similar, just a bit longer of a blade.
I run 1500 to 2000 psi. but keep in mind that is just oil pressure not actual blade tension. I have a 1" cylinder with -4 JIC port fitting feeding it.
I'm using 1/2 inch plate for pillow block riser on the 1/4 thick yoke to give me something to tap. Do I need to use 3/4 plate on the saw frame to get the bearing axils parallel?
I used 1/4 on the yoke/adjustable side and 1/2 on the frame/fixed side
it does not have to be perfect your guides will set the final blade position.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/0828B7DD-95E2-4FB7-AC14-ECA47CE00F67.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547428341)
This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.
Quote from: foamnone on January 10, 2019, 05:20:04 PM
Quote from: ladylake on January 10, 2019, 06:40:20 AM
Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4
That seems way to light for a saw frame. Steve
The plans for the 36 inch saw call for 2x2 3/16. I have somewhere between 0 - no sawmill experience. i'm using the steel I had so I can spend in other areas ... hydraulics
Surplus City as some has mention and I did mill the ends and have a flange bearing on the bottom and pillow block at the top with a wheel chair motor and I use an ATV wench controller with a momentary switch for the up and down just use sprockets to gear the speed. So for works good been using it for a couple of years now.
I used a 2" OD x 1" ID x 2.5" long yellow spring (414 lb/0.1in) Ive never measured the blade tension. I just compress the spring to a certain dimension and everything has been good.
If you use a spring, make sure its captured some how. In my design verification phase, mine was free to fly when the blade would fall off the pulleys.
Quote from: foamnone on January 13, 2019, 08:19:16 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/0828B7DD-95E2-4FB7-AC14-ECA47CE00F67.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547428341)
This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.
Did the 3 have a seam?
Think this is going to be a 'what not to do' thread.
Welded everything up to save time. Wanted to use the mag drill to knock out the bearing holes. Didnt have a 3/8 mag bit to tap a 1/2-13. Had to put a chuck and use multiple twist bits. Pretty much lost a day.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/329C1269-6922-4318-A2E3-FED4FF6F3A5C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547531235)
Kwill (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=32883) Yes, the larger tube had a welding seam on the inside.
I welded an old bastard file to the middle of a 3 ft 1x1 tube and was able to file until perfect fit. Took about 20 minutes per yoke piece.
that's a nice fit. Wish I would have done that with mine.
I am still contemplating linear bearings in that location.
The adjustment yoke for the saw blade guide calls for 2x2 3/16 tube for the 1.5 tube to slid into. Kind of another yoke.
This feels like way too much movement. Seems like it will be an issue when extending and keeping parallel.
Don't have any 2x2. Here is a mock up of what I came up with. Used 3/8 flat stock around 1.5 by 1/4 tube
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/EA1F76D9-481E-4B71-8297-3623C85CBE25.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547595601)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/A49F8502-A0E8-49A4-855C-5D3547791640.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547595571)
I used 2 Pepsi shims. Welded up 75% and it worked. Finished welding solid and it did not work.
Tomorrow will use 3 Dr. Pepper shims :)
It will find its happy place. I used 2" inside and 2.5 x .188 wall outside. It is sloppy but does not effect tracking at all. I do have nylon alignment bolts on the sides of it to keep it true that direction.
that the one thing that I never got just right on my mill I have it too tight and to use a hammer to knock it back and forth going to take it off latter and make some changes to it. So slop I ok?
Slop is fine. all that matters is it ends up tracking close to the same point on the bandwheels. once you tension it it will find its happy place and should not have any issues
Quote from: Crusarius on January 15, 2019, 05:00:25 PM
It will find its happy place. I used 2" inside and 2.5 x .188 wall outside. It is sloppy but does not effect tracking at all. I do have nylon alignment bolts on the sides of it to keep it true that direction.
Are you talking about the band wheel or the adjustable arm that holds the blade guide? My concern was changing the width cut you adjust the arm (I'm still thinking of making the mill extend to make a 44 inch cut or whatever a 178 inch blade can do)
The slidey piece. The wheels will be fixed to it so they will not move. But if the slidey piece twists it will change your tracking. as for up and down it does not matter. That is why I have 2 nylon bolts threaded into the side of the slidey thing to keep it from twisting.
My thought for making my mill dual width was to have 2 slidey things. one on each end. then have the sawframe long enough you can change it between 2 sets of holes and have it setup for dual width. My blade lengths will be 158" and 176". Both standard lengths. will give me approximately 31" and 41" between the guides.
Slidey thing is a technical term :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/5856A84C-CA4C-4F4F-9CF2-6CB0316FF97B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547668162)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/67FFF80A-B6C8-4E81-AF75-01A8B417BE7B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547668157)
Second time I used 3 aluminum can shims and it worked. Next, will build a stand for the mag drill so I can drill the 3/4 holes for the brackets that hold the other slidey thing.
Quote from: Crusarius on January 16, 2019, 09:54:28 AM
The slidey piece. The wheels will be fixed to it so they will not move. But if the slidey piece twists it will change your tracking. as for up and down it does not matter. That is why I have 2 nylon bolts threaded into the side of the slidey thing to keep it from twisting.
My thought for making my mill dual width was to have 2 slidey things. one on each end. then have the sawframe long enough you can change it between 2 sets of holes and have it setup for dual width. My blade lengths will be 158" and 176". Both standard lengths. will give me approximately 31" and 41" between the guides.
I don't quite understand why you need 2 slidey things. Trying to understand because I want the same thing. I had the idea of using an insert that extends The saw frame. ex.
frame is 2.5 tube, insert 2 inch tube 20 inches long in half way. Slide another 2.5 tube over 2 inch tube and use the original slidey thing on top.
Im building by bed and frame to be 62 inches wide 20 ft long. My saw should cut 30-31 between guides. I wanted to cut for a while and learn how it works but would like to understand your idea.
It seems if you extend the adjustable side everything else stays the same. Cant stops, log stops ect
on the linn build the plans cut a square hole in the slidey thingy for the blade guide to mount to. that makes the blade guide fixed on the main rails. The slidey thingy needs to be installed prior to the guide because it is in a square hole so when the blade breaks it only jumps about 1/2".
If you want to make it dual width by just extending the frame then you will have to unbolt the guide and move it every time you want to change width. this will mess up your guide wheel alignment.
My reasoning for 2 slidey things is so the guide does not have to be removed to change width. that way if you only need wide for 2 cuts you can switch back without having to realign anything.
My plan:
Fixed side would be slidey thing with bolt holes in the side to lock frame in place. Guide connected to the slidey thing. There will be 3 bolt holes in the side for locking the frame in place. The center hole will always be used. Depending on wide or narrow setting depends on whether the front or back hole is used. Then the other side will be just like it is now. so instead of just moving the slidey thing on the adjustable side you would be extending the frame.
This prevent having to do any realignment when changing widths.
If you were to make dual width using the linn design you would have to extend the frame long enough to work. Move the guide to another set of holes readjust the guide then extend the hydraulic ram as well.
My design is just another slidey thing extend the frame a bit and a few more holes.
My original idea was to do what I said above. but I had the idea of dual slidey thingy's the other day and I liked it better. Bonus is all parts are attached so there are no loose parts to lose like a ram extender (tensioner).
Hopefully I will have a bit of time when I get home. I will make a sketch for ya.
I made my bed 50.75" to the outside rails. I kinda regret it for 1 simple reason. I can't quite reach all the way across to get my slabs. I had to buy a hookaroon for that.
I end up climbing inside the frame quite a bit just so I can adjust and work with stuff. Gets old after a few hours.
You may want to reconsider your width.
How close do you "need" to get the saw guides? When sawing 2x4's how far apart are your saw guides?
the reason for the dual slides is not for the guides. its for dual width adjustability quick and simple.
All I would have to do is relieve tension undo 2 bolts slide frame to next set of bolts then tighten 2 bolts put new blade on and tension. Then your ready to saw.
If I make it dual width and just make the frame longer so I need to change the slide to a different location then I would also need to unbolt the guide wheel assembly. move to next set of holes. Since the guide hole assembly uses 3/4" holes with 3/8" bolts realigning it is a PITA! SO my thought was to make it quite a bit simpler.
Of course in the process of thinking about this I came up with another idea. But it would still require a piston adapter for the extra length. So that is 1 more part to keep track of.
Hope this is making sense can't get in the drawing mode to really show you what I mean.
ooh look what I found in my gallery.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20170827_181001.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503921548)
This is the bottom side of the fixed side of my sawframe.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20170827_180955.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503931567)
here is the adjustable side. See how the guide wheel assembly goes into the cutout in the frame? That has the 3/4" holes with 3/8" bolts for adjustability. That is the piece that sux to align.
So instead of having to unbolt and move all that I would unbolt the frame from the fixed side and slide it out to the next width. wala! done.
doh. here is the picture with everything on the correct sides :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20170827_190503.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505824291)
Don't make the same mistake I did and weld it all together backwards :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51591/C5D4AA61-8D91-4FB2-9106-E79AD5EC56CC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1547682371)
I think I got what you are saying. What I am thinking is permanently mount the roller guide arm (blue) to the end of saw frame like you were using at full size saw (40 inches between guides). It acts as a stop if band breaks and does not need adjusting between big saw or little saw. Same slidey thing is used...no bolts are taken out just change blade and add/remove hydraulic tension spacer bar. Everything is fixed to the saw except the rod for spacer. Dont have to worry about motor or drivebelts, bolts or adjusting anything
Big saws work like this? Could add a trolley style bearing to support the arm fully extended
Going to make a ton of badness if the short band breaks on you. I think I would add a physical stop to the short band location just to feel a little better. don't forget about guards. When I was designing my stuff I totally forgot about them and they never really fit well. I have 1 I really like the other not so much.
Quote from: foamnone on January 16, 2019, 06:57:52 PM
Could add a trolley style bearing to support the arm fully extended
I'm going to do something similar with mine. i plan on taking a 1"-1.5" stool rod, jig it, weld several (probably 4) 2" wide 1/2" flat bar, roughly 4" long and then weld the flat bar to my saw beam, use some left over 3"x3"x1/4" wall tubing cut a 1/2" slot in it, insert a block of UHMW into the 3x3 sq tubing, drill and tap the UHMW for 3/8" bolts to hold the UHMW in place inside the sq tubing and center bore a hole in the UHMW, the diameter + 0.001" of the rod for a snug fit then mark off and cut a 1/2" slot to match the sq tubing, and install a grease zerk for a bit of periodic lite lithium greasing so it slide horizontal along the rod, to be to adjust my blade guide in and out. I may just use 3 flat bars and no 1/2" slots and place the middle flat bar at just under 26" (maybe 24") from my drive side, which will allow me to mill down to a 24" log, but still provide me my full 72" cut width.
I do like the idea of using the I-beam, and may change my design to a 3/8" thick 10" i-beam, if the 1 i have is long enough. if not, ill stick with the 5"x5"x1/4" sq tubing. and gusset it to support my engine and build my motor mounts accordingly.
i sure wish i had some of your tooling, i wouldn't have to hire out the machine work for drive axle, axle housing and my UHMW material and casings.
After looking at the work to alter the saw frame I already have I m just going to stick to the plans. I'm sure V2 will be in the fiture
Thats boring.... :)
charles mann... I read your building a mega sawmill... this guy on youtube (Matthew Cremona)...he used cook's 26'' wheels and also built a mega bandsaw... building his in the winter time...
Quote from: Vautour on January 17, 2019, 07:26:20 PM
charles mann... I read your building a mega sawmill... this guy on youtube (Matthew Cremona)...he used cook's 26'' wheels and also built a mega bandsaw... building his in the winter time...
yes sir. i bought his plans. my problem is, my power plant is WAY to much pwr and stupid heavy. i was going to go full hydraulic, but after listening to the guys here, i changed back to conventional, but only after buying a 100hp cummins diesel. 700lbs of motor, and i think that is wet weight, but not including the radiator and fuel cell. I'm going to put my cell on the lower side and back of my carriage. plus humping several 5gal jerry cans of diesel 4-5' in the air to fuel up, isn't my thoughts of a good time. my tractor is back enough, fill neck is about 4' high, but at least i can climb on my lift arms to get above the neck. i guess i could use a ladder for fueling, but ill cross that bridge when i get there.
@Vautour (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=43405)
............ Charles mann... yeah that would be heavy for sure.... my plans are a lightweight car engine i've got two Toyota echo (they are about 50hp) very cheap on fuel and very quiet... I've pounded steel all my life and now my brain rattle with noise ...I wanna hear the blade go thru the log is my goal....no diesel for me.. too noisey and I can't stand the fumes...going 24 volt (might go fully hydraulic later) .
Quote from: Vautour on January 17, 2019, 08:48:12 PM
............ Charles mann... yeah that would be heavy for sure.... my plans are a lightweight car engine i've got two Toyota echo (they are about 50hp) very cheap on fuel and very quiet... I've pounded steel all my life and now my brain rattle with noise ...I wanna hear the blade go thru the log is my goal....no diesel for me.. too noisey and I can't stand the fumes...going 24 volt (might go fully hydraulic later) .
i love the smell or jet a or diesel, in the morning, afternoon, and anytime in between. plus i can't hear anyhow. 6 yrs in artillery, and the last 15 as a heavy heli mech, listening to turbine engines scream has pretty much deaf. I'm not worried about the rattling in my head, i found out yrs ago, it was just my marbles. ;D
Quote from: Crusarius on January 17, 2019, 07:15:34 PM
Thats boring.... :)
I know! It just makes more sense to use 2 70 inch tubes for the saw frame rather than rigging up extensions for my current 60 inch ones. I need to make forward progress before I get yanked off on another project
I understand that. When I was in the middle of my sawmill build my snowmobile decided to fall apart. So I had to stop and fix that. Seems like there are always small projects getting in the way of the big fun ones.
Just be careful you don't get burned out on the project and start doing quick patches just to get it done. I took a couple months off from building because that was starting to happen. Now I just keep working on it when I have time. Worked out well and I did not build a bunch of stuff I would regret later.
vatour, I have an old straight 6 4.0 liter out of a jeep wrangler that I thought about turning into a generator that attaches to the sawmill for towing. Then when I get onsite pull the engine away from the sawmill and park it 20' away. Use an electric motor on the sawmill.
When at home I could just plug it in and not have the noise of the engine. That is a dream though. I would love to have all electric. and silent. Just like my snowmobile, if I could get 300 miles out of an electric sled I would do it in a heartbeat.
Charles mann... quite an impressive background..(hats off for your services) i like to study the history of America(and past history like 3 thousand years ago)... remember the ALAMO :rifle:......Crasarius ... those jeep 4.0 were not known for fuel economy... my echo engine would be running at 1500RPM for my high speed which should still be as fuel efficient as anything out there running at 2500-3000RPM... IMHO..
not the best for economy. your right. but hard to beat them for torque.
I built a trailer for spray foam that carried a 50 kw diesel generator. Ran great for 10 years for my business. I loved it but also made enough money to need it.
My wife asked for a raised flower bed (last year) told her I needed to build a sawmill to get the wood.
So far I've purchased the basic mill kit, 1 stick of 2x2 angle and a piece of 3x3 tube.... so I'm up to $100 in metal.
I still need to buy track wheels, raise lower screws and the long pieces for the track.
I used acme threaded rods on my build and not sure it was the right thing to do. I keep wondering if a cable or chain setup would have been better.the acme rods seem to have alot of resistance and when raising 200 pounds of sawframe it take about 15 amps. and takes forever. coming down is great but going up stinks. Almost wonder if using a winch motor with brake to a jackshaft and using roller chain on all of it. double roller chain on everything so you never have to worry about a failure. not that roller chain would ever break.
or I need to find time to try the garage door spring idea and see if it helps.
Is it too heavy for the size motor you have? Are you using 12 or 24v?
using 12 volt wheelchair motor. when I first set it up it worked better than it does now. I made the mistake of lubing the rods. now I can't seem to get them clean. plus the sawframe being so unbalanced does not help. I have plans to fix all of that but other things are more important at the moment.
I will probably redesign the entire head to balance the full assembly to make up alot easier.
Crusarius..... I've been pondering this raising and lowering application for the last year....Here's my conclusion... acme rods.. nope...... too slow and requires losta moving parts and would have to be built outside my carrige top frame(and most sawmill stop using this method).. I like everthing concealed inside my carriage.. Cables..?.. almost.. was afraid the cables would jump and start twisting the head and start binding ...Chains..?.. YES..one chain on each side attached to the jackshaft turned by my combo24volt DC motor/gearbox.. and definitely gonna put a overhead door spring on the jackshaft...bought all the sprockets this week and should have photos in a few weeks...
That sounds awesome. now can you find a torsion spring that will work. use a torsion spring on the jackshaft and you get the best overall package.
What rpm electric motor is common on a sawmill? My logic (has gotten me into trouble) is a low rpm 1800 for tourque at low end.
Quote from: Crusarius on January 20, 2019, 09:09:07 AM
using 12 volt wheelchair motor. when I first set it up it worked better than it does now. I made the mistake of lubing the rods. now I can't seem to get them clean. plus the sawframe being so unbalanced does not help. I have plans to fix all of that but other things are more important at the moment.
I will probably redesign the entire head to balance the full assembly to make up alot easier.
I switched from cable to acme and aint real impressed either. I just have a hand crank on it but it takes a little more effort than i would like to go up. What did you lube yours with? I try and keep the sawdust out of mine as much as i can. Some of my issues was the saw feame sliders binding. I made a piece with a bearing on the front and back that levels out the saw frame and allows it just go up level now without binding. I havent got a chance to try it out yet.
I used chain lube. Helped while I was building it. at least a tiny bit but after I introduced sawdust it was less beneficial.
I will probably attempt a garage door spring to make it go up easier. down is perfect. If that doesn't work then may go the roller chain and jackshaft route.
Saw a pretty nifty idea on youtube, someone welded a pair of vice grips to their mast and used that for a lock. Probably won't be necessary but be nice piece of mind.
I used the aceme rods and have a wheel chair motor on 24 volts and mine goes up quickly I used chain and sprockets to set the speed. Have use it for a couple of years now. My mill is a 2 post the motor hangs off the back but still seems to work ok. I used Teflon to line the sliderly things ;D so I have less friction. But I think if I were to do it again I would go to the chain and gear box.
bwstout, by chain and gearbox you mean for lifting right? My wheelchair motor has a gearbox on it and I put s sprocket straight on that.
I am guessing you mean jackshaft and chain for lifting?
yes sir