Sawing Oak for Personal Building

[Rod Yowell]

Hello guys. I am trying to get all of the lake logs sawed up before the years up and make lumber for some cabins and a barn and mill shed. My question is this. Do any of you millers build with 2"x 4" or 6" oak? I know that most people do framing with pine. Is this because it is cheaper that buying oak? or is it because oak is too hard to work with? will a air nailer work with oak boards or will they need to be pre-drilled and screwed together? I might add that I only have oak logs (about 300 or so).

[WH_Conley]

I have one neighbor that builds exclusively with White Oak. Course he hires all his work done. His farm/carpenter is always complaining after installing rafters.

If that is what you have it will work fine. Try to nail it up green or you will wear out a hammer driving nails.

[Rod Yowell]

Thanks Bill. Can a nail gun be used on oak or do they have to be hammered in by hand?

[Magicman]

Availability often determines the building lumber species.  Oak as well as Poplar will do fine for framing lumber, but your nailing choice could be limited.  After it dries, drilling and hand nailing may be necessary, but I would surely try the air nailer.  (the nails might deflect)     :-\

[WH_Conley]

I use a nail gun on mine. If using ring shank nails be prepared to finish them off with a hammer. If it something for a shed or where a little stain does not matter, dip the tips of the nail stick in oil before putting in the gun. A little wax would probably work too. It will take good pressure on the compressor too. Drop a few pounds and the heads will start standing proud on you. Results will vary by nail gun too.

[Rod Yowell]

Majicman another question I have is about the gage ruler on the mill. It stated the ruler in inches on the left side of the scale but when I measure the board after cutting, it is a quarter inch thinner that the gage says I am cutting. Is this the standard used by the pro lumber mills to get more lumber from a log. I know that a '2 x 4 ' is not really 2" x 4" in thickness. Is this the industry standard measure? Am I not using this scale adjustment correctly?

[Magicman]

Majicman another question I have is about the gage ruler on the mill. 

Your profile does not indicate which sawmill that you have.   This information would be helpful.

Some scales are for sawing quarter scale lumber such as 4 quarter, 6 quarter, etc. which are oversized for planing, etc.

If you have an actual inch scale, it should be adjustable to correspond with your actual blade height above the sawmill bed.

[Jim_Rogers]

You may have to create your own scale in order to take into consideration the blade thickness so that you get full width "2x4" stock from your logs.

Jim Rogers

[Magicman]

I personally would not use full sized framing lumber.  Finding and using nails that would go completely through 4" of Oak would be out of the question for me.  I'll stick with 1½X3½, etc. framing lumber and 16d nails.

[thecfarm]

I make my own scale to get full size lumber. BUT you won't want that with a nail gun. I think you have a Woodmills saw? My Thomas has 14 clicks to the inch,for full size lumber. I have no idea how those are set up. May have to set a log on the mill and just saw into the end to get it right. Use a good permanent marker on the ruler that is there. I use 3 different colors for mine mill. Inch,1½, and 2 inches.

[Rod Yowell]

Also, when finished milling for the day or for a couple of days, is it necessary to cover (tarp) the milled boards from possible rain or can this new milled lumber stand some rain for a day or so, until a stack is finished or moved to a more long term storage spot? does a little rain pose a threat to fresh cut wood?

[WH_Conley]

The temperature is starting to cool enough here that stain in dead stacked lumber is not as much issue. Until lumber started seasoning I never did worry about rain on it. Seasoned is another story.

[mesquite buckeye]

You can get full 3 1/2 inch nails for a nailer, but good luck finding them. If you can't find them, as said above, forget full 2" thick or you won't have enough nail on the back side for it to hold. You might consider cutting 1 5/8 to 1 3/4" thick for your 2X's to compensate for shrinkage as the wood dries. I have used oak with a nailer and if it is just a little dried or a harder piece, you will frequently have the head sticking up 1/4 -3/4" and you will have to follow with a couple of whacks with a framing hammer. Other than that, I had no problems using oak for framing, and it is plenty strong once you get it all stuck together. You will also find it much heavier than conifer wood, especially when it is wet. You may need addtional help or a mechanical helper to get it done. ;D 8) 8) 8)

[Rod Yowell]

I never thought about the difficulty of finding the longer nails and a gun to use them in. I just wanted to make as strong a wall and roof structure as I could. I thought it would be good to use the real dimensional lumber from our mill. I guess with everything being oak, it will already be strong than pine wood framing, correct?

[Magicman]

I would say yes.

[mesquite buckeye]

Most of the nailers can handle up to 4" nails. You just have to find a place that stocks them. They sell 3 1/4" long at the big box stores and call them 16d, even though a 16d is 3 1/2" long. >:(

[drobertson]

Rod, I just finish a small job of oak, using the air nailer, these boards were sawn to finish size, the nailer works fine, Mine just requires a solid 90 psi, and expect to finish a few with the hammer, all in all not a bad idea anyway, hammers pull the joints in tighter.  Air nailers are just nice for getting things started and keeping things more square while beginning the structure.  Course I'm not a pro builder,  I'm quite sure keeping your oak nominal as finished pine studs will be plenty.    david

[bandmiller2]

Rod all good advice given,be sure you have the oak green or nearly so.Once its dry and hard you will need to drill it.I like to build with oak and use a lot of those metal hangers and drywall screws. Frank C.