I just finished off a jug of Stihl winter bar & chain oil, I forget the price but it was well over twice as much as the b&c oil I get from TSC. An internet search revealed that I can dilute regular b&c oil with up to 10% kerosene for winter use.
Is this a proper technique, and if so, what dilution should I use?
Bar oil is not rocket science. It's a full-loss lubrication system, so it pretty much just has to be able to flow to the bar and hold on to the chain long enough to make it one or two trips around the bar before getting flung off. If it's too thick to flow then thin it out a little. Maybe some pencil neck geek can come up with exact percentages based on ambient temperature and viscosity analyzations but I've never found the need to go to that much trouble.
Yes to what Rocky J said. And don't buy kero, use cheaper diesel fuel or used motor oil. Whatever is cheapest. :)
Thanks guys, I've got some kerosene around already so I'll just add enough to get it flowing.
I save the hydraulic oil from my tractor ( gets changed every 100 hrs ) and mix that with summer bar oil . About a 50/50 mix. Been doing this for about the last 8 years with no problems with bar or chain wear.
Quote from: bill m on December 04, 2009, 09:26:05 PM
I save the hydraulic oil from my tractor ( gets changed every 100 hrs ) and mix that with summer bar oil . About a 50/50 mix. Been doing this for about the last 8 years with no problems with bar or chain wear.
I mix used hydraulic oil with STP, one can to 5 gallons of oil. Makes it sticky, just like good bar oil. I can't tell it from the real stuff.
Quote from: Log Hogger on December 04, 2009, 09:21:53 AM
I just finished off a jug of Stihl winter bar & chain oil, I forget the price but it was well over twice as much as the b&c oil I get from TSC.
If it comes in an orange jug that says Stihl on it ,it should come at no surprise that the price is going to be considerabley higher . After all one must consider the almighty Stihl oil certainly has to be the most super duper bestest stuff on the planet you know ,sarcasm intended . :)
Save the jug then dump the TSC stuff in it. Nobody will know the difference .
Thin, cheap and works good for winter for me. Walmart WHITE bottle sure tech sold in car section.
Bar oil is the cheapest grade of oil with a little tack additive ,like Piney I usally mix my own ATF STP and whatever oil ,even has a pretty red color to tell its working.As long as the oil is clean no grit or water.Frank C.
Hey there's lot to said about auto tranny fluid .It works great to give something like a polesaw an enema so to speak when they get plugged up .Which they do periodically ,just the nature of the beast, cold weather or warm, makes no diff with those things .
I've been mixing mine with diesel fuel for the last few winters, works good. I get up to a 50/50 ratio if I remember right. For those really cold minnesota days. If I have to mix a higher ratio of diesel than that, I should probably just stay inside ;)
I save what summer wt. oil I have left for the following summer then go buy 10wt. for winter. Last year I ran Jonsered oil. It is supposed to be a multi wt. oil. I'd say it's probably close to 20wt. It still pours easily at 0 deg. F. Speaking of that I gotta get to the saw shop. Time to switch to winter oil.
My firewood processor oils the bar straight from the hydraulic tank. Works fine.
Woody
It really doesn't make a diff what kind or weight of oil it is as long as you can blow enough oil on the bar .Unfortunately with modern designs they just plain won't do that .
If you took a consenses of good old Stihl the only people who would say they oil enough either work for the company or just don't know any better .--or are "green " to point of being anal retentive about it and should be using a bow saw instead of a chainsaw anyway if the really believed in it that strongly .
Quote from: Al_Smith on December 06, 2009, 09:38:46 AM
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If you took a consenses of good old Stihl the only people who would say they oil enough either work for the company or just don't know any better .--or are "green " to point of being anal retentive about it and should be using a bow saw instead of a chainsaw anyway if the really believed in it that strongly .
:D :D :D
And others want us to believe that they know it all. But I think you do know a lot, and enjoy your line. :)
For some reason, when I fill the fuel tank on my MS361, I have a near-empty oil reservoir as well. Maybe the oil is just evaporating.
And put two chains across the bar, with no hot spots showing up. Hmmmm? Wonder if I should pick out a new bow saw while the pickin is good. Wouldn't want to have to stand in a long line with all those loyal Stihl owners. ;D ;D ;D
I'm with beenthere, my 036 seems to always drip with oil. I use the Woodland pro stuff from Baileys.
Did it ever occur to you folks that maybe for the look of attempting to properly oil that the wizards at Stihl installed tiny oil tanks ? All things are not as they may seem to appear you know . :D
I could rephase my whole outlook on the subject like this --A Stihl chainsaw as a rule will properly oil the mid sized bar the saw is rated for --but don't stick a long one on it . Oh I know the drill,the EPA made them use whimpy oils ,heard it before .They also sell chains and bars too but nobody wants to talk about that ,especially the bowsaw crowd . 8)
Seriously I've got them from Ms 200 T up to 084 .The big one and the little do just fine,it's those ones in the middle that drive me nuts .
I use Husky Veg-Oil - it works great regardless of the temp! :)
bar oil from walmart.....$12/gal
canola oil from grocery..$20/5gal.
I've never had a problem with canola oil. It flows even at -40. I'm not replacing chains because of stretching.
And You can use the saw to cut up your moose. ;D :D
In this neck of the woods, New England, I can find winter weight bar oil for about the same price as the summer weight stuff. Wal-Mart is the least expensive place around here to get the summer weight oil. The local hardware store carries the winter weight bar and chain oil for a couple of bucks more a gallon.
I have not found a difference in the "brand" name oils when compared to the less expensive "generic" oil.
Randy
> canola oil from grocery..$20/5gal.
Seriously, does that really work? ???
I could not find my bar oil, so I used some Hyp 90 in my little electric Remington to cut some firewood stuff smaller. Besides the smell it lubed okay, I think it probably leaked the same though :D
Quote from: rebocardo on December 15, 2009, 08:54:07 AM
> canola oil from grocery..$20/5gal.
Seriously, does that really work? ???
I could not find my bar oil, so I used some Hyp 90 in my little electric Remington to cut some firewood stuff smaller. Besides the smell it lubed okay, I think it probably leaked the same though :D
the only thing I ever noticed with canola was that I used a little more than "normal" bar oil in the summer.
I pay about $6.00 a gallon for summer or winter oil ( I buy about 15 cases at a time).
10 to 12 oz of kerosene or diesel fuel i use because i have it around to a gallon of bar oil works good