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And another sawmill build thread...

Started by Ljohnsaw, July 11, 2015, 12:58:54 AM

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Ljohnsaw

Back on reply #90, there is a picture (from March 2016) of my mill.  Here it was in February of 2017:

 

And again the end of March 2017 after about 18" melted.  Notice the head angle...

 
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

Went up today to try and get some milling done before the snow dumps again tonight.  The last snow was from Thanksgiving weekend - just a couple inches.  The forecast was for rain.  Here is what was left today - ground pretty well frozen but was able to use the SkyTrak

 

I put this big guy on to test the log clamp

 

 

 

Plenty of travel (1") and tons of pressure!  The only issue I had is a 2x2 tube is not exactly 2x2.  My tubes are ever so slightly rectangular.  Of my 3 log bunks that will accept the clamps, only one would fit correctly.  The other two would only take the clamp 90° off to the side.  I have a little grinding to do on the posts.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

I've been pondering what to use to jack up logs to center the pith.  I have a few scissor jacks that could fit but it might be difficult to crank them as the jack has to rise between the bars on my log bunks.  The crank mechanism would be blocked by the bunk end posts.  I was out today hitting thrift stores and such and found this at a ReStore (Habitat for Humanity).  Maybe Kbeitz knows what it from.  I'm thinking an early 1900's car or truck?

 

 

BTW, the posting by clicking to insert link is working again (for me)!  :)

The "lug wrench" has a screw driver like end on it (to pop a hub cap?) and a hex nut hole in the other end lug nuts/bolts.  It doesn't fit in the jack correctly so I'm assuming there was a different handle for it.  I had to give it a shot of Blue Creeper to get the ratchet pawl to work properly and lubed the threads as well.  I like the flip top extension - might come in handy when I try it out on my mill (whenever the snow melts...) :-\  I'll probably make a slight U shaped bracket to fit on top to cradle a log so it won't want to roll off.

Not bad for $5.00! 8)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

I have a jack collection with a few like that but I have no idea
what car it came from. E-bay is saying Model A A2
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

waynorthmountie

Can you provide more info and photos of your lift system. Seems pretty unique, how has it been working and how fast can you lift the head up and down.


Ljohnsaw

Here is a couple pictures when I first made it.  Things are a bit rusty now!  It is made from those big rolling file cabinets.  I added more stages of gear reduction to make it really easy to lift.  About 10 turns to lift an inch.  The center shaft turns the two outside shafts which haul the head up on four chains.  It used to free fall so going down was easy.  Now I have to give the handle a big spin and it will go down a couple inches.




 
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

@Kbeitz ,
I'm going to make the jump to power!  I will add a motor to my head lift.  It is geared way down - about 10 rev/inch.  I bought a pair of Jazzy motors and with their low speed and my low gearing, I'm thinking just a on/off/jog/reverse setup like you did on your router attachment.  The other motor I was planning on adding drive power and I found this controller
Waterproof 12V 24V 48V 20A DC Motor Adjustable Speed Controller Regulator Switch
and was wondering what you think.  I like the waterproof!  Hard to say without seeing the guts.

I found where you recommended this one Q1 Speed Motor Pwm 60a Red+black Hho Rc Control 48v 24v 12v 15khz 10-50v 3000w
and it looks like it is pretty ruggedly built (lots of power transistors).  

Then there are these out there
DC 10-55V 12V 24V 36V 60A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller CW CCW Reversible Switch
with a reverse switch already set up and a digital display of the speed (0-100%).

I am adept at doing electrical/electronics so no issue with putting in a reverse switch on the motor leads and limit switches.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Great... and good luck... My choice would be the high amp one. It will last much longer...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Made this change back in April or so.  Took the tri-handle off and installed a wheel chair motor (24v) that runs off the engine battery (12v).  


 
Runs a little slow when you have to go far (20-30") but good for fine adjustments.  It was acting strange (would go real slow) so I installed some test points for my VOM.  


 
Turns out the battery wasn't fully charged.  I used a battery charger and now it seems to be doing much better.  Might have to resort to an "external" alternator that has more output then the little magneto one on the engine.

The switches on the right are for drive motor(s) but until I get more charging output, that is on hold.

I built my mill using Toyota Tercel rear wheel hubs.  The pulley I had required me to pull the drive hub apart so I could bolt it up on the back side of the hub flange.  In doing so, I messed up the bearings.  They have been giving me problems the last month or so.  When I took off the blade to change it, I could see they were way gone now - about a half inch of wobble!  The inner bearing races were heavily pitted and the seal looked shot.  Probably a lot to have a machine shop repair.

Over Labor Day weekend, Pic-n-pull had half-off so I found a "new" hub for $10 and decided NOT to do the same thing.  Using the old hub, I located the pulley on the rim and drilled though to bolt directly to the rim of the tire.  Then I cut out the center of the pulley and mounted it like this:


 
I was going to take it up the hill today to test it out but a small forest fire has closed my area.  Hopefully they will get it under control/out today if it didn't spread too far last night.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Magicman

 

 
You may consider adding one of these. 


 
Since it draws virtually nothing mine is wired direct.  12.6v before I cranked up but I had used the hydraulics a bit.


 
14.6v with the engine running.  I always know what my battery and alternator are doing.  :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Ljohnsaw

Nice.  I'll have to add that to my Amazon list for the next shipment.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

I guess I add a little once a year to this thread.  So, once again, the drive bearing went out.  I got TWO replacement spindles this time from Pic-n-Pull so I have one "on the shelf" ready to go.  That happened about back a couple weeks.

I was having trouble with my "sideways" clamp.  The point wasn't quite long enough so I welded on a little tab.  So here is my sideways clamp for when I get down to something less than 7" that needs a clamp:


 The cam is setup reversed.  This is the locked position, with the handle pointing to the left is released.

I also "improved" one of my scales:


 
I did two things.  I punched a little dot half way between each scale mark (dark blue).  Then I also punched which scale under every ½ mark and full mark (the faint, uncolored numbers).  That way I can make sure I'm on the right scale.  At the bottom you can see a little carriage bolt head.  That is on a toggle clamp that holds the scale from sliding around.  Say I want to cut a 6x something, I center the blade on the pith, release the toggle and slide the scale up or down until a dot on the 6-scale is under the height marker (a red wire not shown).  I lock the toggle and then raise the head to the full 6-scale (numbered) mark and make my cut.  Drop down to the next lower 6-scale full mark and cut again.  Now I don't have to mess with the tape measure!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

Posted this elsewhere but wanted to keep my sawmill thread up to date.

To center the pith, I would lay my 4' level across the rails and measure up with an aluminum rule (like a yardstick).  So I came up with a single tool to do the job and not so fragile as my level.

I just made this up from a 8' piece of aluminum 1/8" x 1" stock I had laying around.  I cut it into two 4' sections.  I had the last 2 feet of a 12' stick on measure (for radial arm saw fence ).  I stuck it starting a few inches above my log bunks.  It doesn't matter what the numbers are, they are just a reference to the pith at each end of the log.  The wing nut allows for sliding the vertical to match where the log is on the bunks and it can be slid off to store as a single 4' long stick.



 

 

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

Posted this as part of my cabin update but wanted to keep this thread up to date.

I've been wanting to add power drive to my mill, especially for pulling the head back.  I installed another wheelchair motor when I had the head at home over the winter.  So back up to the mill bed, I needed to install some cable and try out my new power drive.  A little adjustment and it works great.  Powerful enough to drag me!

I had already installed the two switches on the right - run/stop and a forward/reverse - when I built this box for the raise/lower motor.  I purchased the controller off of eBay.  I didn't use their rocker switch but mounted the rheostat for the speed control (also is the power switch for the unit).  The 3-digit led display is for the % of power supplied.  I still need to mount it somehow.  There are no ears to mount it, might just use some double stick foam tape.  The volt meter below I just got last year and it has failed already


 
The vinyl coated cable comes from the back end of the mill, through the UHMW bushing mounted in a eye-bolt, goes around the black pulley and does a figure 8 around the silver drive pulley, back around the black pulley and through an unseen UHMW bushing to the front end of the mill where a turnbuckle is used to tension it all up.

 


I'm only running 12v so "full speed" is not too fast - like a quick walk.  Works great for returning the head.  Can't wait to get some logs to try it out.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

Update 6/18/2020:

The power drive was working great - for about an hour and is dead in the water.  I'll be heading back up this week and will do a little diagnostic work to see what's going on with it.  Might have to buy a new one :(
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Crusarius


Ljohnsaw

I check and it has power but then I got sidetracked and cut up a bunch of logs.  I should have pulled it and brought it home to mess with it but it slipped my mind.  I'll be going back up next week to work on the rest of the logs.  I replaced my home-turned wheels with some bigger ones from a hydraulic lift gate mechanism.  Nice round profile for ½" cable, about 6" diameter and roller bearings.  The head rolls real easy now - about 1 pound of force to move it.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Tom King

I had missed this thread before, but back to those jacks.   I have several just like that.  They belonged to my Dad.  He told me that were Model T jacks.

Even though I have a fairly good sized collection of hydraulic jacks, I still end up using those once in a while.  I used one just a few weeks ago to get the sag out of a very old door.

Ljohnsaw

Time for an update - not just to this thread, but to my mill.  Over the last few years, I've had a number of breakdowns and field repairs.  Now that I'm down the hill for the winter, it's time for Version 2.0!

Things I'm keeping:
1) Track.  Works great and has remained as straight as when it was built (one section has a weld-induced sag of about 1/8" in the middle of 16')
2) Bunks.  Work good but need a couple more - stole idea from someone on the Forum.
3) Log dogs.  Version 2.0 of those are great - stole idea from someone else on the Forum.
4) Electric head lift.  Wheelchair motor (24v) running on 12v is adequate.

Things I'm changing:
1) Power travel.  Worked ok when first install but controller died.  Doesn't fit my cutting style.  Might make a hand crank system with a neutral for returning.  I use the pressure I need to push as a guide to my blade sharpness.
2) Drive wheels.  The doughnut spare tires work ok but I bought some steel pulley wheels with 1.5" hubs to be more conventional.
3) Band guides.  I have Cooks guides but need to rework the alignment system.  Also, the sliding width adjustment I will improve and add an actuator to electrically move them in and out.
4) Drive ratio.  Currently I'm going from ~6" motor pulley to a 15" attached to the 21" tires.  I'm reducing it to a 12" attached to the new 18.75" band wheels.  That should increase my band speed a little.  Not sure what my engine top end rpm is but it sounds slow-ish.  18hp B&S twin cylinder.
5) Belt tensioning.  I have an automotive belt tensioner that I will use to replace my kludgey one.
6) Lube system - try to install an electric valve tied to the electric clutch.
7) Switch from car hubs to pillow blocks.  Incorporate better blade tension and tracking systems.
8 ) Upgrade lift to include garage door torsion springs to help balance the weight.
9) Width of cut - increasing about 6".  I get ~3" from reducing the band wheels diameter and another ~3" by reworking the guides.

I opted to go with a band wheel kit off of eBay that had a pair of wheels, hub adapters for 1.5" and v-belts.  Surplus Center maxed out at 1-7/16.  I wanted to go as big as possible on the axles.  So now I need to purchase some pillow block bearings and some axle material. 

Looking for recommendations.  I see some bearings on Surplus Center and a bunch on eBay.  I don't see speed ratings, let alone country of origin!  For the axles is it 1018 steel that I need?  Not cold rolled?  The band wheels will be as close to the bearings as possible with the drive pulley (12") mounted between bearings.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Rob Gibbs

New to this forum. I am starting to build a mobile band saw mill. John, you may want to source some 1030 for axle stock. 1018 is a little soft in my opinion and will bend more easily than the 30 point steel.

Plans and acquired materials: I am using a Honda 20hp v-twin electric start for power, 21" bandsaw wheels and a 22' long 7" C-channel frame. I hope to use a few dc motors, 600-800w , to power the carriage lift and tracking. I am hoping that someone out there has done similarly and has advise/ recommendations. I will use speed controllers for both motors.

Cheers, Rob

Ljohnsaw

Rob,
Welcome to the Forum.  Thanks for the steel info - I'm going to visit a supplier's drop shelves today or tomorrow.

Do you already have the C channel?  If it is what you have, go with it.  However, in my experience, it is not as stiff as box steel - it can twist - though 7" is pretty stout and very heavy!  I made mine from 2x4x¼.  If I were to do it again, I'd only go with 3/16" wall.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Ljohnsaw

Update 3/29/2021:
Making good progress.  Built the new head frame, mounted the pillow blocks, axles, band wheels and drive pulley.  Temporally placed engine so I could design the engine plate.  Built that and has first coat of paint.  Will be back on it later this week.


 

I have a hydraulic pump (like a porta-power) and need to get a puck cylinder (from HF?) for the blade tension.  On order are 4 sticks of 1/2" ACME rod and nuts.  Decided to just do it right compared to my old chain lift.  I really want to do an electric slide blade guide but can't decide how to do it.  I'd like to see what others have for electric blade guides.  They need to move easily yet be very sturdy - not move forward or back.  I will have a rail above to maintain the proper height.  Maybe I need two rails above with an angled brace from the back one to the roller?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

JRWoodchuck

If you dig through wood mizers videos you can see how they did there and it's the best I've seen. Haven't seen one in person but it's really simple and looks well engineered. 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Ljohnsaw

Update 5/14/21:

Finished up my mill rebuild (well, almost) and took it up to the property today.  I took a bunch of picture and will try and document what all I did.  Here is an overall shot.  The blade guard is some 5/8" ply for the covers and the green plastic is cut from one of those playground commercial tunnel slides.  I added a piece of 1" cedar across the top and then screwed the plastic into the cedar and the edge of the plywood.


 
I added the fancy chrome 1" square tube (from a store clothing fixture) and it is held in place on the saw head with toggle clamps.  On the bottom of the square tube I put in a couple round head screws that match up with some holes on the saw head.  That keeps it from moving around.  It is very sturdy - time will tell if it holds up.


 
The moveable guide will go all the way into the cover.  It is out just a little here.

 
The fixed guide (drive side) is mounted ridged on a 1/4" x 1.5"x1.5" angle bracket.  It is held in place with the same bolts holding the pillow blocks.  The 1/4" square tube is 2.5"x2.5" that I threaded for 3/8" bolts (2 each side, 8 bolts per roller) to adjust the rollers.


 On the adjustable side, I had some 1.25" square tube and mounted it in V-rollers.  They are mounted on arms with 1/4" adjusting screws to fine tune how tight they are.


 The cable is for moving the roller in and out via this set of pulleys on a screw drive linear motor.


 
I took out the two switches for the power drive that failed last year and put in a momentary dpdt switch (upper right).  Also mounted a hood latch pull for the choke at the bottom.  The battery voltage display is still not working.  Might get a new one but for now, it fills the big hole.

 The saw head is now just a single frame (not a big box like before).  I mounted the engine towards the middle and put the gas tank outside the frame so I can go as high as possible with the engine there.  I could modify the upper frame piece if I want to get another 10 to 12".

 I also moved the battery towards the center along with the fuse panel (only two circuits), battery cut off switch and a better throttle lever.

 Shown here is an automotive belt tensioner.  Up top is a screw that is used to adjust the tension.  Also, you can see the 1/2" ACME screws I'm using now.  I made some telescopic PVC to cover them up.  I need to attach them to the frame.

 
These 1/2" PVC conduit just ride up and down with the frame.  I figure that should be enough (24") since there isn't a lot of dust up top.

 
I didn't get a picture of it but the old drive motor is mounted up top with sprockets on top of all the ACME rods.  I have 1/2" flange mount pillow blocks top and bottom along with 1/2" collars to help support the weight of the head.  There are quite a few set screws holding it all up.  All the electrical is in liquid tight conduit to keep it protected.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Crusarius

That is looking really good. are those angled bars supporting the engine? nm looks like they are supporting the adjustable guide. have any better pictures of that setup?

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