Green white pine logs

[Dana]

I was asking a moderator if I could post a wanted ad for Eastern White Pine cabin logs. In the course of the reply he mentioned that building with green logs by this winter may be a problem. We are doing so using full scribe, (Canadian method) I have spoke with several builders and all are using green logs and allow for settling - cracking is to be expected. Any thoughts?

[Norm]

Dana when we were deciding about building a log home we went and did quite a bit of research on log home construction. One of the things that kept coming up was how much shrinkage and settling the logs did as they are drying. The construction methods took this into account so that windows and door frames didn't get crushed. Pre-drying the logs would help out but an 18" dbh log is going to take some time to stabilize to the final moisture level. Most manuf. don't do this as they don't have the time our money to do so. It would help to do so but you can plan for the settling and shrinkage. One of the other things is that logs of this size will crack as they dry, once a crack opens it exposes untreated wood to water. The logs will need to be resprayed to keep those cracks sealed with a moisture shedding finish. Not that big of a deal but if you don't do it the logs will start rotting prematurely.

I for one love the look of a log home but didn't want the upkeep and shrinkage problems, Jeff B on here used D logs on his home and it turned out great. He used northern white cedar which apparently is pretty rot resistant and the wood had been pre dryed. Not trying to say don't use real logs just some things I've observed about them.

[Dana]

Norm, Thanks for the info. We are going to use white pine logs and do the full scribed thing. I  own a woodmiser and could save some $ by taking two or three sides off but I want the look of full scribe. I hear spruce or tamarac would be a fine choice also. We are talking with a log supplier in the western Upper Penninsula of Michigan about logs but he can't cut until this winter. Hoping for something sooner. But, I guess we will be seeing snow sooner than one thinks.

[bighoss550]

are u building yourself?? are u planning to buy logs that are cut by just any logger or from a plantation?? have u asked around the landowners about pine trees?? i suggest u try ur hardest to spot spruce stands as ur driving and find out who owns them. take a plane ride from a local pilot this fall after the leaves fall. this is how i do it. i am always being asked if i could "remove those pine trees" and i do so for no charge. free logs are the best building logs:D plus u get them ur way on ur own time and u can skid them gently on snow with straps instead of chains.
also, doin the tree removal deal leaves u with alot of firewood and tons of railing to mess up:D trying to get it right:)

spruce is the nicest of our pines to work with and its very plentiful as there are millions of them that were planted as christmas trees in the 20's -40's that are in the 18"msd range.... its also rated higher in strength in recent studies over time than others.....

if u are a novice and need info i very highly suggest the book by robert chambers "Log constructon manual", and another from B. Allan Mackie "biulding with logs". read read:D definitely get the chambers book even if u arent doing the actual work....

[Dana]

Thank you for the info. I am having someone who is starting out build it for me. In order to save cost we are finding the logs ourself and delivering them to his work site. He will then build the house there disassamble it and reassemble on our property. I don't believe there is a lot of large spruce near us. I have a lead on some white pine in the Grayling area the logger is going to call us tonight.  

[UNCLEBUCK]

Hello, I went to a log home building school over 20 years ago and built a few doing the full scribe or scandinavian scribe methods , one cabin was red pine norways and the other was white pine , logs averaged around 28 inch butts , you will no problems with settling and shrinkage as long as you allow for it by re-setting your scriber on the fly-ways or also called the ends , just allow a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the ends for settling and same on the top of your notch and try to use the shrink fit notch method instead of the old pre-historic round notch because that will allow your walls to settle nice and even and stay tight over time , peeling the bark when temperature is below freezing is not even worth the time unless you have some kind of a hand powered peeler , it is possible to get the bark off below freezing if the sun shines hard on them and then if it starts getting tough move on to the next log and keep rolling the bark sunny side up ! Cracking of the logs wont be a noticable problem your first year and you really wouldnt want to blow sikkens stain on them until the end of a summers drying , just get the roof on before about one year because all your nice logs will start feeling soft . Sounds like you know what youre doing if you know how to scribe but a person just wants everything to be perfect and in the end you will have your cabin . I remember when I first come home from log school I was so excited that I built my dog a log doghouse just to practice and keep it all fresh in my mind before I wasted a 70 foot norway . remember a bottle of wine for every perfect log that goes on perfect !  ???