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Cutting the bottom branches on Fir trees?

Started by Bow Saw, November 03, 2008, 09:30:56 PM

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Bow Saw

     In the past month or so I have been cutting the bottom branches on my fir trees, it is my understanding that this will help to make a better log. But as I was cutting today I asked myself if I was not doing this for nothing? I was thinking that if I get the wood lot cut by a wood cutter he will cut it all in tree length. So the work I am doing now will be 
wasted! :-\

Ianab

To improve the quality of the log you need to remove those lower branches early in the tree's life. Then as the tree grows the later wood layed down on the trunk is clear timber with no knots, hence more valuable.

You also need to document the pruning so you can show the logs are of higher quality than normal unpruned logs, and market them as such. If they are just scaled and sold as normal logs your work is wasted, but the mill gets the bonus when they saw more high value clear timber than expected from your logs.

Lift pruning a mature tree will not gain you anything as the knots are already embedded in the trunk.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

SwampDonkey

Be careful Bow Saw, pruning spruce and fir increases incidence of rot in the main stem. Be careful not to wound the trunk, leave a 1" stub and don't cut into that collar of the branches where they attach to the trunk. The best way to prune spruce and fir is grow them tight and do several thinnings as the bottom branches die. Too open and they will limb up again. Then you gotta hope you get a better price in the future than right now to justify all that work. It's fine to do it on a small acreage, kinda a hobby and good exercise. I don't want to discourage your efforts, but "I told ya so" at least.  ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Ron Scott

Ditto! to what swamp said. Not to much advantage to pruning fir unless its a "hobby thing".
~Ron

Mooseherder

It sure does make for a Park like setting. ;)
Bow Saw has trimmed a few thousand trees and would have withdrawals if he had to stop. :D

This is one of us cleaning my saws at his place because they really needed it and I can't do it as well at the Camp.  They don't show how beautiful their place is.





Here is another looking the opposite direction.  Mom was letting my brother drive the Rhino. :D




Clark

I'd agree with SD on everything except leaving a stub.  On one hand you don't want to cut into the trunk itself, but rather leave the branch collar intact.  Leaving a stub keeps the saw away from the collar but also shoots you in the foot if you want to prune for better timber.  I'd say learn how to properly identify the branch collar and then cut as close as you think you can without cutting into it.

Clark
SAF Certified Forester

SwampDonkey

Going to be worst than shooting your foot when your trees start developing bole rot.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Clark

Quote from: SwampDonkey on November 04, 2008, 07:58:14 PM
Going to be worst than shooting your foot when your trees start developing bole rot.

So presumably leaving a 1" stub will prevent bole rot?  Mooseherder should expect most of those trees to be cull by the time harvest arrives?  Just curious as I have no clue how leaving something behind would help prevent fungus from entering the tree.

Clark
SAF Certified Forester

SwampDonkey

Pruning whether a 1 inch stub or to the branch collar will increase the probability of rot in spruce and fir. It's just not done. I have a back yard full of pruned spruce my father trimmed up 30 years ago, all full of rot.  ::)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Mooseherder

I'm gonna be upset if these rot. :(
At this rate only about hundred trees are getting trimmed every year.   Another 100 are getting space thinned.  The space thinning will continue as these were way too tight.
If I see some evidence of damage I'll stop before doing more trimming of lower branches.   

I leave about a quarter inch of stub or a tad bit less.  The trees from last years trimming looked healthy.  Time will tell.






My focus this year was on this side of the camp.  These Quaking Aspens were suspect and way too close to the camp.  I took down a dozen or so.  Only one didn't fall the direction it should have. ::) :-X

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n1bqU5826w

sharp edge

On white pine  been cutting them 1 foot long on the dead branches. Hoping they will rot quicker then collar can pinch them off. A long dead branch can wick a lot of water out of the trunk and wont rot. Don't know how this is working out , time will tell.

SE


The stroke of a pen is mighter than the stroke of a sword, but we like pictures.
91' escort powered A-14 belsaw, JD 350-c cat with jamer and dray, 12" powermatic planer

Clark

Quote from: SwampDonkey on November 05, 2008, 06:38:24 PM
Pruning whether a 1 inch stub or to the branch collar will increase the probability of rot in spruce and fir. It's just not done. I have a back yard full of pruned spruce my father trimmed up 30 years ago, all full of rot.  ::)

That's kind of what I was thinking too.  Obviously pruning fir and spruce isn't an ideal proposition but if someone really wants to do it, I think we owe it to them to teach them how to do it correctly.  Soon you end up with people applying that advice to other species and they are really doing themselves a disservice. 

sharp edge - Prune those white pine right up to the branch collar, you're wasting your time if you don't.   Here's a link to help identify the branch collar.

mooseherder - It looks like you are mostly pruning dead branches so I wouldn't worry about it much.  Physiologically the tree should be fine but until the wound is healed over there is always a chance for fungus to enter.  Just follow good pruning practices (which it appears you are) and don't worry about the rest.

Clark
SAF Certified Forester

Bow Saw

Thank you all for responding to my inquiry about pruning fir trees.  Now for my next question;  How would you go about to document the cutting that is done to the wood, if I only trim an acre to an acre and a half out of one hundred plus acres per season? ???

Mooseherder

Thanks for that link Clark.  That'll help.
Yes, those were dead branches on the Fir and Spruce. :)

Ianab

Obviously different species and different climates / growth rates will have different effects.

As I'm not familiar with your trees or your climate our results may be very different and you should pay more attention to the local advice.

But - some actual dissections of how pruning 'should' work.

This is a slice through a 5yr old pine tree that had been lift pruned once, but thinned on the next round. I cut it in 1/2 to see what was actually going on inside. The branch scars are still clearly visible on the bark, and you can see the bulge where the whorl of branches were, but the wood being layed down from this point is totally clear of defects. The log is about 7" diameter at this point.



A section through a branch that was pruned just outside the collar and has healed over perfectly. You can see some discolouration down the branch, but the wood is still solid and is now sealed over which should prevent further rot.



Another knot on the other side hasn't healed over as cleanly and it's left a small cavity of bark and pitch. But it's still sealed and there is actually less decay in the branch stub.



Closeup of the 2nd branch.



Now these are very fast growing trees so they seal up the pruning wounds very quicly, these have grown over completely in approx 12 months. Your mileage may vary.

I do still wonder how much worse pruning off the suppressed and dieing branches is going to be, as opposed to letting them self prune and rot off naturally. It just seems that cleanly removing the branch and allowing the tree to heal quickly should be better than leaving a rotting stub that has to decay away before the bark can close over.

Removing larger branches from an open grown yard tree would certainly increase the possibility of rot getting in as it is going to take MUCH longer for the stub to close over. But removing dead or dieing branches in a closed over canopy situation, I cant see as being any where near as harmfull.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Bow Saw

     Putting in my 1st practice picture of the pruning & thinning that was done to some fir trees on my woodlot......so please.....go easy on me ;D



pigman

Bow Saw, I don't know anything about pruning, but you are good at picture posting and driving an ATV with a passenger on the back. 8)
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Mooseherder


Clark

Ianab - Thanks for those great pictures.  That radiata pine is amazing stuff, what is the typical pruning and thinning treatment for those trees?  The forestry down in Aus. and NZ has always fascinated me.

Mooseherder - One problem with pruning the fir and spruce is that neither grows all that fast.  These radiata pine that Ianab is showing us are Olympic sprinters while the rest of us are running the three-legged race!  There is nothing bad about pruning the fir and spruce, especially if you are only taking off the dead branches.  As SwampDonkey has pointed out, the fungus will quickly take over either of these trees if given a chance so pruning is usually not even considered.

Another problem with pruning the F&S is that there aren't many products that the market demands for straight, clear F&S.  My grandmother is sitting on 200 cords of balsam fir that is running 30 cords/acre.  It would make great logs for a cabin but it can difficult to find someone willing to cut the good stuff with the bad.  Don't get me wrong, I wish I could see more stands of balsam like my grandmothers, but sometimes you can't get rid of it even when you need to.

Clark
SAF Certified Forester

Ianab

Quote from: Clark on November 06, 2008, 02:01:07 AM
Ianab - Thanks for those great pictures.  That radiata pine is amazing stuff, what is the typical pruning and thinning treatment for those trees?  The forestry down in Aus. and NZ has always fascinated me.


The exact pruning and thinning would depend on the actual site, climate and soil types. The trees would normally be planted around 3-4m spacing, mostly to get an early canopy closure to supress weeds and encourage a taller form with suppressed lower branches.

The first prune would normally be after about 3 years. The tree would be 5 or 6m tall and would just be pruned from the ground, leaving 3 or 4 m of green crown, The trunk would be about 4" dia where the pruning stops.

The trees would be pruned 2 more times, maybe 5 and 7 years, or up to 10 years on a poorer site. That gives 6m of pruned trunk, again a 4" dia at the top, and 3 or 4m of green crown remaining.

Pruning is generally with hand tools and ladders. A big set of double acting loppers and a nice sharp hand saw for any bigger branches. Chainsaws can be used, but are not a lot faster than loppers, and more dangerous to the operator and the trees. If you are standing on top a a 4m ladder with one leg wrapped around the tree for stability, hand tools are actually easier.

At some point the extra stems are thinned, generally to waste unless it's an easy access site where the small stems could be harvested for posts or pulp. But it's low value stuff and is generally just left to rot. The inital planting would be around 700-1,000 stems per hectare, but it's thinned down to 250-350 actual crop trees. By the time you take out the double leaders, broken tops, animal damaged, bananas, and just runts you should be left with the best trees and if you have to take out a few 'good' ones to prevent overcrowding, so be it.

But all the silviculture work is completed in the first 7 -10 years, then the trees can just be left. Harvest would be 25-30 years for good sawlogs. The trees could be 30" dbh by then, and the pruned butt logs would have a 6" core of defect, the rest is clear timber.

A lot of work, but the end result is 2 or 3 times the return at harvest.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

SwampDonkey

Yeah, Mooseherder the dead branch pruning won't have ill effects. When I prune up with a spacing saw it's so I can see where my saw head is and to get that brush out of my face. I leave a long branch but mostly to discourage the moose from rubbing. I have no idea at this point what will happen over a 30 year period. I found a few fir yesterday that had small untrimmed limbs where the moose has been having a great time rubbing the bark off.  ::) It seems they target trees in low density areas for their scratching posts. I also found a couple spruce stripped. We need a longer moose season.  :-X

I hear what Clark is saying about his grandmother's fir. We can grow fir here to 18" in 45 years with silviculture. I let the neighbors cut one last fall that was 18" dbh and 45 rings on the stump. So I know it can be done. Nice and white with the typical reddish latewood in the rings. The trouble with some of my older fir on the lot is past mechanical damage and age. Some of them are 40 years old already and were suppressed before a harvest 15 years ago. If we ever get the biomass industry going here, those older damaged fir will be going to make electricity.  Otherwise, I'll probably be asking myself why I'm letting them grow with a big scar up the side, so they might be worm food a lot sooner.  ::) As long as I can walk and carry a saw I will be spacing my woods 20-25 years apart taking the worst first. If I can't get a decent return off those better fir down the road, then I guess they will make good worm food.  :-\ ::)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

routestep

I have all types of regeneration of Fir and Black Spruce on my lot. I've trimmed a few of the lower branches, not too many but its pretty slow going.

What I have done for the last eight or ten years is nip off one of the double leads on the young trees. I'd walk around for hours grapping a tree and cutting a double lead off with hand pruners. On occasion I'd find a tree that I nipped a few years previous with a double lead again, nip it again. On slightly taller trees, eight to ten feet tall, I use a walking stick with a hook (branch that I trimmed) and drag it down to where I could trim the extra lead.

Is trimming the extra lead a waste of time?

SwampDonkey

They tend to always develop a new one. Don't know why, but they do. I just cut the darn things off at the stump unless it's in a light area. Then maybe the moose will rub it instead of a good one. ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

janetville

Quote from: Bow Saw on November 03, 2008, 09:30:56 PM
    In the past month or so I have been cutting the bottom branches on my fir trees, it is my understanding that this will help to make a better log. But as I was cutting today I asked myself if I was not doing this for nothing? I was thinking that if I get the wood lot cut by a wood cutter he will cut it all in tree length. So the work I am doing now will be  
wasted! :-\
Hi Bow Saw, it's over a decade later now. I find myself in a similar situation as you. I'm wondering if you've noticed evidence of increased rot in pruned stems. I've started lift pruning some young spruce trees, but I figured I better get some additional insight. They are white spruce

SwampDonkey

I have been pruning some fir here for a few years, these are fir I want for myself. The mills up here don't give any bonuses for clear fir or spruce, so they won't get any. But I'm not recommending any pruning to anyone. Seeing what has happened to spruce that have lived a few decades after pruning, is not encouraging. You need real small branches, and that is achieved with spacing. In nature, the nice old spruce self pruned that way and those early knots in deep by now are pin knots and well healed. 1+ inch knots are not going to have great results.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

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