mod eliminates parallax error

[burlybee]

I just completed a mod on my Linn Lumber 1900 that eliminates parallax error.  I mounted a line laser to draw the level directly on the measure.  It is so much easier to read!  No more bending to get to the same level.

 

[stanwelch]

Sweet. I like it.  What are the specs and source for the laser?

[Old Greenhorn]

I love it! Can you give us the details? Specs/source for the laser, power requirements, etc? I have a manual mill so I would have to add a battery, but that is sweet and very worth it! I see you chose red, do you have any problems seeing that in direct sunlight?

[Nebraska]

  agreed, like the addition.

[barbender]

That would definitely help with not only parallax, but also my late night sawing😁

[CCCLLC]

Nice Job.

[trimguy]

I like it.

[Banjo picker]

I use several different scales at different times.  They are magnetic 🧲...guess I could just move it.  My sight pin is basically right at my eye level so that's not much of a problem, but with the 3 eye surgery's I had on my right eye I am sure it would be beneficial.  So I too wait on your source.  Tim

[KenMac]

Likewise, I'm interested as well. I use the setworks as much as is reasonable, but a crisper and smaller line on the scale would definitely help.

[never finished]

 I have to have one

[burlybee]

Just a quick update now.  More later.  
The laser module is red because I was prototyping and wanted a cheap test unit.  It was under $5 as I recall.  I wanted a short focal length 60 degree spread module.  When this unit fails I will probably replace it with a better unit.  Because the throw distance is so short (about 3 inches), the laser does not need to be very powerful.
I made the L-brace to hold the laser out a few inches from the measure.  The laser diode unit is mounted in a heat sink which transfers heat to the L-brace as well.  The mount is a farhop 12mm industrial aluminum laser diode module mount.  It cost about $11.
My mill is a Linn Lumber 1900 with power up/down and feed.  I pulled power inside the controller box from the deep cycle battery after the on/off switch.  That way the laser comes on when I turn on power for movement.  That voltage is 12VDC so I put a 5V regulator inside the box.  The laser module runs on 3-5VDC.  It would be very simple to just power it from two AA batteries.  
Because the laser is mounted 90 degrees from the measure it will be easy to change magnetic tapes without parallax shift due to thickness changes.  It is important not to shine the laser in my eyes.  On my mill the laser spill-over from the measure bar falls on the back of my bandsaw frame.  I think it would be the same for other mills, but I can't say for sure.  DO NOT get a high power laser module and let it shoot you in the eyes.

[burlybee]

I will try to post a parts list and building instructions tonight.  It isn't very complicated or very expensive.  The L-brace is the only part I had to make, and someone else may have a good source for a prettier unit than the one I made.  Mine is just 4" aluminum bar bent in a vice.  The downside of aluminum is if you want to tack weld it to your mill.  I plan to mount mine with screws because I am the only one on this forum who doesn't weld.  Right now it holds quite fast with command strips.  While I don't weld, I make very pretty wire harnesses.  If the wires don't hold, the light goes out.  You will have to work that out for yourselves.

[Old Greenhorn]

Take your time. You are not the only one here who does not weld. ;D and I think welding in this case is not the best choice anyway. We really want to know where you got that little laser and mount I think mostly. I'd rather have a 12V laser to work on a simple gel cell. I don't have electrics on my manual mill.

[Ljohnsaw]

 :P
I, too, would want 12v but a regulator will work.  Always an issue on mine as the scale if fixed and the "line" moves up and down.  So sometimes I'm squatting (for that last 1" board) and sometime I climb up on the rail when doing the first few cuts on a monster log.


 

[burlybee]

Here is a list of the parts I used for this project.  Be aware that I plan to switch out the laser diode module in the future for an industrial model.  The reason for this is that the cheap laser diode module I bought is not rated for continuous use.  It may never wear out, but when it does it will most likely die of heat.  An industrial module does a better job of dissipating heat to the heat sink.

1 - the laser module is a 12mm adjustable focus line laser module.  I bought a bag of three for $8.49.  Be sure to get one that can focus at 2 to 3" because you are going to place it close to the focal plane.  Here is a link to the module I bought Amazon.com: HiLetgo 3pcs 650nm 5mw Laser Head Laser Tube Adjustable Focus 3~5V Red Laser Tube for Sight Positioning Sighting Telescope(Dot/Horizontal Line/Cross Optional) (Horizontal Line): Computers & Accessories

2 - the heat sync is also the mount for the laser module.  Again I bought a 12mm unit to match the laser module.  It is a farhop 12mm industrial aluminum laser diode module mount holder.  It cost me $10.89 on Amazon.  Here is a link to the unit I purchased farhop 12mm Industrial Aluminum Laser Diode Module Mount Holder with Hex Wrench - - Amazon.com

3 - my laser module operates on 3-5VDC and I wanted to run it from a 12VDC battery.  I bought a package of 10 2 amp voltage regulators for $5.90 on Amazon.  These convert the 12VDC  to  5VDC for the laser module.  I used an L78S05CV.  Here is a link to the modules I bought ST Micro L78S05CV Semiconductor, 2 Amp Positive Voltage Regulator, 5 V, 4.6 mm W x 9.15 mm H x 10.4 mm L (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4 - I built an L-brace to hold the lens of the laser module out 2 inches from my scale.  The laser needs to be out far enough not to block your vision of the scale.

Once I got the focus set for the thinnest line possible, I put some locktite on the lens threads.  I don't want the lens to turn when the sawmill vibrates.

It would be easy to power the laser from 2 AA batteries with something like this Amazon.com: LAMPVPATH 5Pcs 2 AA Battery Holder with Switch, 2X 1.5V AA Battery Holder Case with Wire Leads and ON/Off Switch(5 Pack): Home Audio & Theater

[donbj]

I just completed a mod on my Linn Lumber 1900 that eliminates parallax error.  I mounted a line laser to draw the level directly on the measure.  It is so much easier to read!  No more bending to get to the same level.

That! Is a cool idea!

[Crusarius]

This is awesome. I have a fixed scale that measures up from the bed and an aluminum bar for my line. Works well but the laser is pretty sweet. I do need to add a movable bar and still keep the fixed so I can always have my last cut be a normal size.

If I cut all the same board thickness I can just start at the top and work down the scale but if I decide I need a 2" board in the middle of my 1" board that messes all my scales up.

[chet]

My cheap low tech remedy to eliminate parallax error, a piece of lexan with reference lines on each side.




 
No double reference lines yer dead on 
  
 

[tawilson]

You also don't have the indicator arrow blocking the number you are on, which is another reason I switched to the laser. Now I'm thinking that lexan setup with an led light and maybe a magnifier over the numbers would solve a few things for me.

[chet]

A more clear pic taken without da camera flash fuzz'n stuff up.

[JoshNZ]

If any of you guys were using batteries, 18650s would be the one to use. 4.2v charged, you can put as many as you like in parallel.

Not super cheap (not terrible either) but they have maybe 13x the watt hours than AAs and will do a bunch more cycles.

Did the regulator data sheet call for a capacitor on the output burly? It might help the laser life if it does.

[burlybee]

Hi @JoshNZ , I've been away for a bit.  I'm a little late on this answer.  If you use batteries you won't need a regulator.  I used a regulator to drop my 12v sawmill battery down to 5v for the laser.  My laser is cheap, so I am not too worried about extended life.  If you use a nice commercial laser you might want to protect it more than I did.  A capacitor across the regulator would smooth out ripple and potentially extend laser life.  Unless you understand electronic design just get a car LED converter cheap from Amazon (around $10).  The car has the same battery and the laser is an LED circuit just like car LED lights.  That unit will have all the matching smoothing capacitors and goodies already wired in a nice mountable box. 

[JoshNZ]

Nice work

[Ljohnsaw]

Burleybee,
So I got my lasers and the 12-5v voltage regulators the other day.  The regulators are unmarked so I'm at a loss as to how to wire them up.  Can you provide a rough schematic so I can slap one together?  Thanks!

[burlybee]

@ljohnsaw, Looking at the regulator with the tab to the back the pins are (left to right) 12v, GND, 5v.


 
Connect the first pin to your 12 volt power supply.  Connect the center pin to both the Ground on your battery and the Ground or negative on your laser.  Connect the right hand pin to + on your laser.  Your laser should light up.  If you interrupt the 12 volt wire with a switch you can turn your laser on and off.  Attach the tab of the regulator to something that will act as a heat sync.