Hearth pad

[Firewoodjoe]

I went to buy a pad today and the only one the right size was $300 and it was ugly. My manual says I can build one and gives a list of materials. Says I can use layers gypsum board aka drywall with a fire proof material to achieve the r value needed. But doing a search online says you can't because it has paper. I think you can as long as it's all covered under something like cement board. What's your thoughts? 

[charles mann]

Try this company. 

https://www.hightemptools.com/supplies.html

might have something you could use

[Firewoodjoe]

Manual say r .9 is needed. One layer on 1/2" gypsum is .45 so two layers of fire board and one cement board on top would be plenty. Trim it out so it's pretty and call it good. And cheap. 🤷‍♂️

[charles mann]

You could go 1 1" insuboard and should be good. I havent messed with insuboard, and of course, unsure what the heater foot pads look like, unk if the feet would bust through the board. Maybe 4 1" thick hard fire bricks would disperse the heater wt. or a 1/8" plate of polished stainless, which would also help to reflect the heat upwards, would disperse the wt. but would be greatly more exp than 4 hard fire bricks. 

[beenthere]

Help if you would give us the size. 

Don't see one for $300, but some in the neighborhood of $100.

[Firewoodjoe]

Stove is 440 pounds with 4 legs. About 1" square. Requires minimum 39"x48" that's because it has a end door. So I want 48" square so it don't look weird not centered. I'm not ordering anything. I want to run to town and get the stuff and get it done. That's why I was asking if anyone knew about drywall under a stove. I see no reason it wouldn't work. It's what's used between garage and dwelling. 

[Don P]

A lot revolves around the height of the legs on freestanding appliances. If over 6" legs you need a 2 hour assembly. Brick laid tight and a sheet of steel is the prescribed way over a combustible surface. The protection needs to extend 18" in all directions.

Chapter 13 of NFPA 211 is the code reference for this, see 13.5.2
Free Access - NFPA 211: Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel–Burning Appliances

Otherwise it needs to be listed on the packaging somewhere. Please post what you find, I need something large and preferably thinner than brick for a cookstove at work. 

I believe you are getting closer to the sheetrock than allowed.

[Firewoodjoe]

This is my stove.

[beenthere]

 

 

Built mine with appropriate drywall and covered with tile. 

[tule peak timber]

Wow what nice windows. What are you growing outside?

[Firewoodjoe]

 

Built mine with appropriate drywall and covered with tile.

Exactly! Is the drywall under the tile? That's what I'm going to do then. That's how I read the instructions also. Just stack and add the r values. Also looks a lot like my stove. Very nice. Thank you. 

[beenthere]

Wow what nice windows. What are you growing outside?

Thanks
Outside in the "rows" are planted spruce and red oak seedlings '98 and pic taken when addition was built in 2001. Trees are 35-40' tall now. 
Older trees are white pine, hickory, cherry, red oak, white oak, etc. 

[Firewoodjoe]

Well $16 in drywall and home. Had left over tile. Thought cool cheap and will match the house. Well I'm short three pieces 🤦‍♂️ And no longer in stock. So I'll have to buy a different color. What a life of decisions lol 

[Hilltop366]

I had that problem once (short a few tile) in a small laundry room so I bought a few of a contrasting colour and cut them in 2 and made a border then used the original tile in the middle.

I have seen 24" concrete patio stones used for a pad too, I think they had to use a bit of mortar in between them to get rid of the slight gap.

[Firewoodjoe]

Well I built it to minimum size dimensions. I new I'd stub my toes anyways. Especially if it was bigger. But turned out ok.

[Old Greenhorn]

I've done two that wound up looking like that (Well, maybe not as pretty) and I trimmed them with hardwood molding that I ripped off on the table saw and put a nice 45° lead in bevel. Pre-drilled the finish nail holes and finished to match the floor as best I could. You still stub your toe, as I did (often) but it minimizes the blunt force trauma and also looks pretty nice.
 One of our new neighbors had the same issue and I made her the trim from and ash tree that grew in a spot she could see from her window. She liked that a lot.

[Firewoodjoe]

It's not trimmed yet. I plan on doing a 45. Or at least try. So as you kind of slip up rather than head on blunt.