iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Central Boiler E Classic 1400 Water Temp Issues

Started by tmills1288, February 04, 2019, 02:11:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

tmills1288

I'm hoping someone can help me figure out my issue. I know I have creosote build up in my air tubes, but I'm still able to fuel a good fire and get my water temp up to 185, but when I tested my waterline where it comes into my house, right before it goes to my hot water heater, it is 35 to 45 degrees colder than what my E Classic shows. Then I tested it at the pump right after it comes out of the OWB, and it's already 30 to 40 degrees colder there as well. I thought maybe my reading on my OWB was wrong, but it seems to be right when I tested it. Does anyone know why I'm not getting the same water temp coming out of my E classic 1400 as what's in my water jacket? Thanks

E Yoder

Sounds like low flow causing inadequate mixing in the water jacket maybe? Or a bad temp probe on the control.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

tmills1288

What would be causing the low flow? It is a 140' run to my house, that's one way, with 1" pex. Do you know what the proper pump for this application would be? I can check what I have for a pump when I get home. Thank you

E Yoder

There are many pumps out there. Post your model number.
Impeller might be broke.
How are you measuring temp? Surface of the pipe will read a bit low. Shiny surfaces don't read accurately with those laser temp guns.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

Roger2561

I used to heat my home and DHW with an E-Classic 1400 until I replaced it last fall with the CB Titanium Edge 550 HD.  I only swapped it out to make it easier for me to clean things.  My old bones don't allow me to work like a pretzel anymore.  I never had issues with the water temp when leaving the OWB.  It ran flawlessly for 7 winters.  The only problem I ever had was with the air channels coming apart at the welds.  As soon as I find someone who does site welding I'll be getting them repaired and then I'm giving it to my nephew.  How old is your E-Classic 1400?  To expand on what Yoder said, if measuring at he pex pipe, you may get an inaccurate reading there too, it may read low.  Roger      
Roger

tmills1288

I did use a laser temp gun and I figured it might be a little off, but 40 degrees seems like a lot to be off. My E Classic 1400 was purchased in 2010, but this is my first year with it, because we just bought the house last May. 

My pump is a Grundfos, Type: UP 15-42 F, 115V, 1PH, 60 HZ, 10 UF, P/N: 59896155 P1, PC 0943, Class F

boilerman101

Are you sure you have your hot and return lines connected to the correct ports on the Eclassic and the pump flowing the correct direction? CB pulls water from the top of the tank and returns lower in the tank. If backwards or not connected right, there could be a high temp difference with what is being read by the water temperature sensor that is also located high in the tank. Can you post a picture of your lines and pump hook up in back of the furnace?

E Yoder

In addition to the good points made above^^^
A 15-42 is a bit on the small side for a 140' run. I've done it and it may heat fine, but the flow through the furnace is on the low side. Others could comment better than I at what flow rate it would begin to stratify tho.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

overclocking

Quote from: tmills1288 on February 06, 2019, 01:20:21 PM
I did use a laser temp gun and I figured it might be a little off, but 40 degrees seems like a lot to be off. My E Classic 1400 was purchased in 2010, but this is my first year with it, because we just bought the house last May.

My pump is a Grundfos, Type: UP 15-42 F, 115V, 1PH, 60 HZ, 10 UF, P/N: 59896155 P1, PC 0943, Class F
A couple things.
1. Your exceeding over 15ft of head going 300ft, plus fittings and the exchanger. That pumps too small.
2. If your running 1 inch pex the max btu your going to get at nominal flow is 75k btu. The only way to overcome this is to increase Delta T by increasing the water flow.
3. Your air channels being clogged will not allow proper gasification. I made a post on how to remove the channels if your good at fabricating.
4. Drain some of the water and test it with a thermometer, the temp probes on the CB do go bad sometimes.
You need either 2 runs of pex to get the max output BTU, or you can try a bigger pump.
Either way I recommend a BG NRF 36 pump to increase the flow to where its achieving proper exchange.
Google

XMartin

You have enough flow to dump that much heat, how will more flow help with your heat loss?
Why are you talking about flow?  What you should be asking is, where is all that heat going?  Tell me you got the good pipe, and didn't try to save money and now your heat is being sucked out by the ground.

E Yoder

If it measures low temp right below the pump in the stove then it could be a flow issue in that the stove isn't moving internally.
Not a heat loss issue, just explains the low temp. My guess it's a combination of stratification in the tank and inaccurate measurement on the surface of the pipe.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

Thank You Sponsors!