tongueand groove boards

[Robert R]

Not sure if this should go under milling or processing so I thought I'd put it here.  In my mind, I have a big stack of imaginery 2x10 full dimension lumbar that I want to make into tongue and groove lumbar for building stout and tight horse stalls.  What equipment do I need to acquire and how do I go about doing it?

[KiwiCharlie]

Hi Robert,
I think you need one of these (or like this) planer/molder thingies!  :D ;) http://www.yoderssawmill.com/logosol.html
As for how to use it, I will leave that to someone else to answer!
Cheers
Charlie.

[etat]

I's sure my answer wouldn't apply if you had to do a 'lot' of production but a real good dado blade on a real good table saw will work.  You'd have to make three passes with each board.  Get the blade set right and make one pass for the groove and run all the boards through.  Reset the blade and make two passes on the other side, each pass cutting  out one side of the tongue.

[chet]

Not sure if this should go under milling or processing so I thought I'd put it here.

processing  ;)   

[Minnesota_boy]

It depends on how large that stack of 2X10's is.  If it is enough to make a few stalls, say maybe 3 to 5 stalls, then I'd agree with Cktate, use the tablesaw.  If you need to make more, say maybe 20 to 50, then find someone that does custom planing or moulding and let them do it for you.  If you need to do thousands of stalls, buy your own moulder and go into business.  It doesn't pay to get your own moulder for only a small run, but doing lots of pieces on a tablesaw isn't practical either.

[MemphisLogger]

If you do it on the table saw, you can do it in 2 passes

Cut the groove with a dado blade stacked to the thickness up the tongue.

Cut the tongue with the dado stacked with a shim the same thickness as the tongue sandwiched between chippers on either side.

[pigman]

Scott, Never seen a dado that would go that wide. I guess the dado width would not be the  the problem, the length of the table saw shaft would be the problem. :P
Bob

[Frank_Pender]

Geeee, Kiwi, when I saw that notation to visit the Yoder Sawmill, I almost shinsed.  We have some folks with the same name, about 45 miles North of me.  Therefore I justhad to make the visit you referenced.  They have been in existance well over 60 years.

[Brad_S.]

I know of a number of Yoders...and Millers and Slabaughs but they aren't the electricity using kind! ;) 
Them there electricity using Yoders must have left the sect awhile back if they've been there 60 years. :D

T&G with a shaper and power feed is pretty effcient, and it's doable with a router as well.

[MemphisLogger]

Scott, Never seen a dado that would go that wide. I guess the dado width would not be the  the problem, the length of the table saw shaft would be the problem. :P
Bob

I have a 12" Grizzly that has separate arbors for my 1" bore saws and 5/8" bore dadoes. The dado shaft is plenty long to accomodate 1 1/2" of cutters--I've never tried more than that.

 

[etat]

real good dado blade on a real good table saw will work.

UrbanLogger, sounds like you've absolutely got a real good tablesaw!!!!!!! 8) 8) 8) 8)

[rebocardo]

I have made mine using a router and table (plunge router upside down), otherwise I would say use a moulder if you have lots.

[pigman]

Scott,
I guess I will have to get a table saw with a longer arbor.
Bob with a cheap table saw

[Don_Papenburg]

I would use a shaper. A router is not made to take that kind of abuse. Well unless you want to make several passes. :-\

[KiwiCharlie]

Hi Frank,
OK, whats shinsed!!??  :D ;)
When I saw the price of those things, I did wonder how much t&g you would need to sell for it to pay for itself!  I guess it does other molding as well though.
Cheers
Charlie.

[Robert R]

Thanks for the info.  Gives me something to keep in my mind for when the imaginery barns becomes reals and needs its 10 stalls.

[FeltzE]

If your starting with rough cut lumber of uniform thickness and all you want to do is to T&G it then a shaper will work fine.

If you want to surface plane 10" lumber at the same time then a 4 sided moulder would be  fastest.

Many commercial moulders will not go that wide (logosol will) so surface planing may be necessary on a planer then edge moulding on a shaper.

I ran about 100 2x8x10's in about 90 minutes for a horse application where we took commercially bught 2x8's and ran just the T&G with exceptional results. Very economically, I was able to purchase the 2x8's run them and resell them at a profit and keep the costomers cost no higher than he would have paied retail for just the 2x8's

Eric

[Norwiscutter]

i like the fact that once you get use to the Logosol, you can vary the the dimensions fairly quick.  To day I ran some random width T&G birch up to 9 inches thick.  I am still getting the feel of the machine and am therefore keeping the feed rates slower than necessary. Yes, uniform stock with this machine results in a better product.  I have been jointing/ripping some boards that maybe I could feed into the machine without doing so, but I think it is worth it when the end product fits together nice and tight. If money was no object, a straight line rip saw would be nice to run inline with the logosol for production, but for now, I will hold what I got.  It took me two hours to process 200 feet of birch, but 1.5 hours of it was the jointing/ripping. Also keep in mind, with the logosol, it fast feed rates of t&g is the goal, I would think about the 4 knife side heads and putting 4 straight knives in the top and bottom heads.