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Using a wood burner with a radiator system

Started by flip, November 15, 2007, 09:24:12 AM

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flip

A guy here at work has a small shop he is currently heating with a small stand alone wood heater.  The project is to wrap copper tubing around the stove and use an automotive radiator and box fan to blow heat.  He knows he needs a pump to circulate the water and the radiator cap can be used as a pop off valve he can also use a pressure tank for bleed off.  The questions are 1, radiator holds about 1-1/2 gallons, how much should the coils hold-2 times or more (3-4 gallons)?  What kind of pump should he use, how many gpm? 
This is mostly for play and if it works great, any web sites I can point him to that may help?
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

Ron Wenrich

Why would you need the radiator and all the hassles of a coil?  Why not just hook a fan up either in front of or behind the stove and blow the heat like that. 

If you're looking to put the radiator in a differnt location than the stove, maybe putting duct work in and having a squirrel cage blower would be just as efficient, without the hassles of running both a blower and a water pump.

You'll also have to look at some sort of tank for water expansion.  We have a wood stove that also heats water that we circulate.  We use a circulation pump like you find on a household boiler.  You might be able to get away with a regular 12v water pump.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Dale Hatfield

i would think a sure flow pump would be up to the task being how its not going to be alot of water.
Dale
Game Of Logging trainer,  College instructor of logging/Tree Care
Chainsaw Carver

thecfarm

I don't know,but wouldn't you need a lot of water,like 50-100 gallons that was 180° or so that when it was circulating it would not cool down?What would happen when that 3-4 gallons cooled off,it would not have time to heat back up circulating.I use to use a regular stand fan in my basement to move the air.Box fans are even cheaper.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

I am trying to understand why, like Ron Wenrich, you are thinking of water and radiator...??
If the need for hot water and a radiator at a distance from the wood stove, then maybe that is the reason for the plan.

I heat the entire house with hot water, and there is a 9 gal water jacket around the wood 'boiler', and hot (warm) water is pumped through three different zones. I like this hot water system, as the heat from the wood can be stored in the water, and pumped when and where needed. Not so with a straight wood heater...


south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jpgreen

That looks like a nice system BT...  8)

Did you buy that or build part of it?  One problem we have with our water is it has a slight electric charge which is very well suited to promote electrolisis. I would need to circulate RV antifreese or the like.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

flip

I didn't ask why, that's his business.  I think it's a more of a "just to see if I can" project than anything.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

beenthere

jp
I bought the "boiler" and designed and fabricated the system to work with the gas boiler (originally an oil boiler). The stainless tank is a preheat tank with a copper coil inside it to hold 30 gal of water feeding the domestic hotwater heater (the coil is connected to the boiler water).
The water in the heating system is a closed system, and is not replenished unless there is a leak. That water has had boiler chemical added, but I've never tested it for charge or PH, just add to it (last time I added was when I changed some piping in the heat run, and it was 2001) when needed.

It is a great system, and heats this home of 1400 sq ft with rec room at below 0° F temps.
This boiler was made in northern MN in the 70's, and has gone out of business. If it burns through, or ever springs a leak, I will have a replacement built. Just welded steel plate rolled to the shape, one inside the other. Flat plate on back with thimble for stack.  A hydrastat to open and close the damper below the sealed door.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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