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Author Topic: End coating  (Read 5231 times)

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Offline Lnewman

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End coating
« on: March 18, 2013, 11:07:20 PM »
What is the best substance to use for end coding new boards?
Stihl 170, 210MS, 290MS, 441MS and Hudson bandsaw

Offline Norm

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Re: End coating
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2013, 07:47:49 AM »

Offline WDH

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Re: End coating
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2013, 07:59:43 AM »
It is worth it.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline Kansas

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Re: End coating
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2013, 10:26:57 AM »
End sealing boards? You would have to cut the log up right away. Otherwise small cracks would have already started in the log. I would think it would make more sense to end seal the logs right away, then cut the boards out of it; they will already be end sealed. If you decide to seal, anchorseal is the one of choice.

Offline OneWithWood

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Re: End coating
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2013, 12:29:40 PM »
Anchorseal is my product of choice.  It goes on within minutes of falling and bucking.
One With Wood
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: End coating
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2013, 12:49:16 PM »
Anchorseal if you are going to mill them in a timely manner .Roof coating if not .

Roof tar will hang on for a long time .Anchorseal might be good for 6 months .Whatever you're going to use don't dilly dally ,put it on as soon as possible .

Offline Jay C. White Cloud

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Re: End coating
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2013, 01:08:00 PM »
X2 for all the folks that recommended Achorseal.  I'm must agree with Al_Smith though, I find Achorseal has a life span of about 6 to 10 months on logs and boards outside, (in  shed seems different?).  Does anyone get longer time out of it?
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: End coating
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2013, 01:39:52 PM »
The stuff on the ends of my lumber which is in a building is still nice and half ways waxey after 7 -8-9  years of being in storage .It held the splits to a minimum .Those tar coated prior to milling I cut a cookie off of  had some splits .Had I taken the time which I should have to recoat them with some type of Anchor seal type stuff they too would have remained in better shape I believe . It's a learning process ,now I know better .Truth the matter it completely slipped my memory at the time .

The stuff has went up in price but still worth the effort and cost .Nothing more discouraging than loosing 18 inches off each end from a nice piece of hardwood which is fine and select were it not for the splits .You might end up with 8-9 usable feet from a 12'6" plank ,kinda sucks . :(

Now the saving grace with all my mistakes is I have a short 900 Bd feet of black cherry ,tar coated which I didn't cut a cookie from .Perfect providing it doesn't tar streak when I run it though the planer .It didn't appear too bad after it was sawn .Maybe I'll get lucky .

Offline Den Socling

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Re: End coating
« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2013, 03:05:26 PM »
Anchorseal is good stuff. I don't use much around here. I brush it on the ends of heavy white oak or figured walnut. However, I've been around a lot of mills that spray the stuff. That wax can make a lot of slippery concrete around the spray area. BTW I believe it vaporizes around 140'F so it's gone when you take it out of a conventional or vacuum kiln.

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: End coating
« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2013, 03:32:13 PM »
 :D Yeah and some people buy it by the barrell full and us small timers by the 5 gallon bucket .No concrete to worry about ,mud . :D

Offline beenthere

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Re: End coating
« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2013, 05:11:09 PM »
 
Quote
BTW I believe it vaporizes around 140'F so it's gone when you take it out of a conventional or vacuum kiln.

Prolly not needed after coming from the kiln so much as when the wood is green or high moisture and drying from the end grain.

But good to know a re-app is needed if wanting to help retain the dryness of the wood.
south central Wisconsin
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Offline tyb525

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Re: End coating
« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2013, 05:57:18 PM »
How well it would keep lumber from absorbing moisture, wouldn't it add moisture anyways when you apply it cause of the water in it? Just a thought.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: End coating
« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2013, 06:11:42 PM »
The reason you seal the end grain is because the log looses moisture faster through the end grain than sideways cross grain which is what causes the splits .

Let me give an example .On say an oak log,three footer ,it can lay in the woods providing it's not in ground contact for years and only the sap wood will rot away if it's a white oak .The ends might be split in 18 inchs,two feet .You get into it passed that it will still retain moisture and the wood will be solid as a rock .

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: End coating
« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2013, 06:51:42 PM »
Generally, we would not rec-oat lumber after drying as there is a good chance that the wax used in Anchorseal will get onto more than the end of the lumber, get into a manufacturing plant and then interfere with finishing (hard to paint, varnish, etc. wax).  Being a wax, the wax will evaporate about 130 F in the kiln, so only the color is left with sometimes a bit of oil staining.  Anchorseal does sell GemPaint for coating dried lumber...it is mostly for beauty, but then good appearance does sell lumber sometimes.

We did a study with 5/4 oak and a two day delay in coating lumber in the summertime reduced the benefit of the coating in half.

We did a study on coating logs with fresh ends in the summer of oak and maple and we found no drying checks or stain on the ends after 10 weeks.

Because the Anchorseal evaporates in the hot kiln, it is not suggested for end coating of kiln samples.  Use a more temperature-durable product such as roofing cement (tar) or B.O.S.S. from Anchorseal.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Offline tyb525

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Re: End coating
« Reply #14 on: March 20, 2013, 09:31:35 PM »
Gene do you remember what you used to apply the sealer. I have wondered if there is a performance difference between using a brush, paint roller, or sprayer?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: End coating
« Reply #15 on: March 21, 2013, 09:22:21 PM »
We used a brush for lumber and sprayer for logs.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Offline WDH

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Re: End coating
« Reply #16 on: March 21, 2013, 09:39:14 PM »
I brush it on, that way, you get to know the log better  :D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline mesquite buckeye

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Re: End coating
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2013, 12:30:34 AM »
I got a load of end coated basswood many years ago. It was a wax product, don't know the manufacturer. Gummed the heck out of my planer when I ran it.

I have had good luck end painting logs with the white elastomeric roof coating material. Seals well, no waxy goo after, dries non sticky and no problems with later processing.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Offline Norm

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Re: End coating
« Reply #18 on: March 25, 2013, 08:42:53 AM »
I've been known to not do it as timely as I should. I'll cut a couple of inches off each end and apply it. Not sure if that's as effective but it does seem to help.

Offline tyb525

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Re: End coating
« Reply #19 on: March 25, 2013, 10:23:33 PM »
mesquite, I'd think trimming the end before planing should eliminate problems. Plus it gets rid of the dirty old end grain that can dull planer blades.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!


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