Firewood on a Hakki Pilkie 1x37

[barbender]

Nice pile of wood! The log length stuff sure increases production, up here everything is 100" so it is a rare treat that I get some 16' wood. Can fit almost a cord of 16' on the deck, so I spend a lot less time in the skid steer. 

[GRANITEstateMP]

barbender, a lot of it is 16, some are 18 and 20. If its not too big a diameter, I leave them 16, if its got too much, ah "character", them it gets cut down to 12ft

[GRANITEstateMP]

We did a strong 2 cord load this am ;D. These were all oversized logs that my buddy got from from tree jobs. We bucked them this spring and pre split them with the BluDiamond on the skid steer. 
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Today we did up a trailer load so my buddy could start stacking on his porch. A lot of the wood was already pretty dry. The top of the wood on this trailer is 2 cord, we went a bit over :D. Its not going down the road, just from the back pasture/woodlot to the house. I don't think DOT would approve.

 

[jimbarry]

@GRANITEstateMP I am having cutting issues with my HP1x37. You run across this with yours?

20220821 Hakki Pilke Easy37 cutting bar problem - YouTube

[Corley5]

Try a different bar.  If the rails aren't true or if the groove is hogged out the chain can lay over and cause that.  Otherwise it could be a relief valve issue.

[jimbarry]

The bar is in decent shape so I will go with the other idea of relief valve.

[barbender]

Make sure your chain is the correct guage as well.

[Corley5]

Try a different bar before you dig into the relief valve.

[jimbarry]

Make sure your chain is the correct guage as well.

It is.

[jimbarry]

Try a different bar before you dig into the relief valve.

Will be first call I make Monday morning. I have a bar here but the gauge is too small, it's 0.050 but the chains are 0.058.

[GRANITEstateMP]

Just got in from finishing off 3 cord.

@jimbarry,

I don't have the hydraulic saw,.mine is the manual style.  That being said, the first thing I do when I run into that type a deal is swear. That doesn't fix anything, but it's my go to ;D.  I've found that its usually time for a bar. I run the Husky 16in, .325, .058 Bar. Old Husqvarna # 608000006, new # 596009066. I usually get a year out of a bar 75-90 cord, then they get retired.

As to the belt feed. Please hold, thinking

[GRANITEstateMP]

When my belt started doing the creep, it was a bit of cleaning and an adjustment. My handle is connected to a linkage on the back side of the machine. the linkage goes in a cover near where your 3pt arm would hook. the linkage has a spring on each side of a lever that is attached to a hydraulic valve. If you push up on the cut handle the lower spring compresses and the belt pulls logs in. With the cut handle at rest, when you push the left pedal down,the upper spring compresses and the belt goes in reverse. When I had my issues with the feed belt, the cap on the end of the hydraulic valve had shaken itself off and the spring inside the valve was sticking. A lot.of brakleen and penetrating oil later, it was freed up. New cap installed to keep it clean and adjusted the spring to adjust pickup point and belt speed. Photos to follow. Hope that helps!

[GRANITEstateMP]

Look out, the guy with the flip phone is taking pics!



This is with the access door swung open. These are the spring that you adjust. The metal in the middle is the arm that connects to the hydraulic valve. OH YEAH, the reason I know about this is I had one of the springs break at one point! A trip to the hardware store and a bit of adjusting and she was good to go!




The pivot that attaches to the saw ar and the linkage in this pic is another area that I've had a small issue. There is a roll pin that goes through the saw arm. Sometimes, it'll partially back out and the machine gets a bit strange, til you pinpoint the issue.



This is the bottom of that hydraulic valve. That ref and gray cap is the part that fell off. I cleaned the heck out of it and lubed it all up and it was good to go again. On my machine all the valves have the same cap, I just stole one that wasn't always in sawdust til the replacement came in. I have the cap part # if you need t. Hope something in my rambling makes sense or helps!  If you were closer, I'd lend ya a new bar, I keep 2 in stock, aka nailed up to a beam in the basement, just in case.

Matt

[jimbarry]

When my belt started doing the creep, it was a bit of cleaning and an adjustment. My handle is connected to a linkage on the back side of the machine. the linkage goes in a cover near where your 3pt arm would hook. the linkage has a spring on each side of a lever that is attached to a hydraulic valve. If you push up on the cut handle the lower spring compresses and the belt pulls logs in. With the cut handle at rest, when you push the left pedal down,the upper spring compresses and the belt goes in reverse. When I had my issues with the feed belt, the cap on the end of the hydraulic valve had shaken itself off and the spring inside the valve was sticking. A lot.of brakleen and penetrating oil later, it was freed up. New cap installed to keep it clean and adjusted the spring to adjust pickup point and belt speed. Photos to follow. Hope that helps!

Mine's all hydraulic, no spring mechanism like that.

[jimbarry]

Look out, the guy with the flip phone is taking pics!



This is with the access door swung open. These are the spring that you adjust. The metal in the middle is the arm that connects to the hydraulic valve. OH YEAH, the reason I know about this is I had one of the springs break at one point! A trip to the hardware store and a bit of adjusting and she was good to go!




The pivot that attaches to the saw ar and the linkage in this pic is another area that I've had a small issue. There is a roll pin that goes through the saw arm. Sometimes, it'll partially back out and the machine gets a bit strange, til you pinpoint the issue.



This is the bottom of that hydraulic valve. That ref and gray cap is the part that fell off. I cleaned the heck out of it and lubed it all up and it was good to go again. On my machine all the valves have the same cap, I just stole one that wasn't always in sawdust til the replacement came in. I have the cap part # if you need t. Hope something in my rambling makes sense or helps!  If you were closer, I'd lend ya a new bar, I keep 2 in stock, aka nailed up to a beam in the basement, just in case.

Matt

I always keep duplicates of consumables items too. But, the bar I had is the wrong gauge. This week I will pick up the right one. Hoping that fixes it.

[GRANITEstateMP]

Jim, I bet the bar will get the saw stall fixed right up.  What makes the belt drive engage that might be making the belt creep?  

[jimbarry]

Jim, I bet the bar will get the saw stall fixed right up.  What makes the belt drive engage that might be making the belt creep?  

That one joystick controls four movements. The joystick is in a T-shaped slot so it can either go right/left or down and back up. When the joystick is pulled downward to operate the bar cutting, the speed of the bar's descent is variable based on how far down the joystick is pulled. When the joystick bottoms out for the bar cutting motion, it has some wiggle to it in the left and right direction, maybe a couple millimetres. Whether that is factory, or wear over time, I am not sure. Moving the joystick to the left does not cause the in-feed belt to reverse. But, moved to the right, the in-feed belt does creep forward. It shouldn't of course because it causes the log to push against the bar while cutting.

[GRANITEstateMP]

Jim,
is the T handle connected to cables or hydraulics, or electric?

Any luck with a new bar?

[jimbarry]

Fully hydraulic. 
Two bars on order should be here Wednesday. Cost CAD$154 delivered with taxes from the HakkiPilke dealer a couple hours from here.

[GRANITEstateMP]

Thats not a bad price at all. I think I gave $65 ea for the Husky bars from my local dealer, and they give me the "good guy discount"! We are the Live Free Or Die state, so no tax on bars...yet

Hope that gets ya back up and choppin.

Do you think its just a bit of sloop in the lever that is causing the belt creep? Is it worth tearing into it?

[jimbarry]

Thats not a bad price at all. I think I gave $65 ea for the Husky bars from my local dealer, and they give me the "good guy discount"! We are the Live Free Or Die state, so no tax on bars...yet

Hope that gets ya back up and choppin.

Do you think its just a bit of sloop in the lever that is causing the belt creep? Is it worth tearing into it?

No, I don't think it is. So long as the lever is pulled straight down, or down and to the left, the belt won't creep.
I am still suspect of the bar being the issue, although it does have mileage on it. You know yourself, you can cut into a log and sometimes the log will move, the bar will still cut through. It's jsut such a random problem that is  a pain in the butt. We'll see how it goes.

[jimbarry]

@GRANITEstateMP have you ever changed the sprocket on yours yet?  Looks like I will have to change mine soon.



 

[barbender]

When I first got my processor (Dyna SC-14) it only had 38 hours on it, and it was 4 years old. It had been operated by the type of people that should not be allowed access machines, or tools. It would cut halfway through a log great, and then just stop. No load on it or anything, chain spinning at full speed. I finally replaced the chain, that's when I realized they had installed an .063 guage .404 chain on the .080 guage harvester bar. The chain could walk to the side enough that apparently the bar would snag on the face of the log. I would imagine a bar that the groove is worn or opened up would behave the same.

[GRANITEstateMP]

I have done the drive sprocket, and I'm probably gonna need to do it again in another year or so. It was a pain to jig it up into the press, but we got it one. Did the sprocket and, I think, 2 bearings? Those were over the counter at the local parts store.

Barbender, I like your line about people that shouldn't run equipment OR touch tools!

[Spike60]

We have an official name for those folks: SNOPES; an acronym for Should Not Own Power Equipment. And yes, it rhymes with DOPE.