iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

PTO circle mill  Good or Bad  ?  

Started by WV_hillbilly, January 01, 2004, 04:41:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

D._Frederick

Uncle,

If you got your flow control valve from Northern, it may not have a third outlet port. There are two types of valves, some are made for a open system and the other for closed systems. Better get the model number off of it and find out what valve you have.

Carl_B

Uncle Buck The 806 that you are running your mill with I think is using the open system. The digram that I drew up was for the closed system. You may need to do some more checking to see if this will work.  Carl B.

UNCLEBUCK

ok I took some close up pics today so maybe everyone can have a peek and see , I cant match this prince flow control valve from northern with the one shown in my graingers book so D._Frederick I might need your help again and Carl_B,                                                                                        



UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

D._Frederick

Uncle.-,

I think that you have the correct flow valve, it has the E.F port that needs to run to your tractor hydraulic tank.  I have seen the valve for the closed system and it does not have the E.F port. Put the hose on it and it won't load your tractor hydraulic system. On your tractor, when you operate the hydraulics, it goes to full pressure and the excess oil goes thru the pressure relief valve. This takes engine power and will heat the oil.

UNCLEBUCK

Thanks D._  !   I just got too many things going on to know everything so this will be great . No more questions from me for awhile but I guess I finally got all the little bugs worked out now and was waiting to ask this hydraulic question when the opportunity was right . Thanks Carl , Ron , Paul, Corley & everyone !  8)
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

smwwoody

UB

I have the same valve on my feed works.  just run a hose from that ef port and "T" it into rhe return from your valve body to you tractor.

Woody
Full time Mill Manager
Cleereman head rig
Cooper Scragg
McDonugh gang saw
McDonugh edger
McDonugh resaw
TS end trim
Pendu slab recovery system
KJ4WXC

Carl_B

Uncle Buck Do what smwwoody says should work good for you Carl B.

UNCLEBUCK

smwwoody this is a good day and I will do all the above , one less thing to think about when sawing, drove me nuts feeling the hose and valve get warm after I been sawing awhile , probably good I was my own boardman otherwise I may have had a hydraulic meltdown !  :)
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Plowboy

Uncle Buck, did you get the changes made to your hyd.  Did everything work out.  Thanks

UNCLEBUCK

hi plowboy , thanks for askin !  yeah I changed the hydraulics right away while I had it fresh in my mind but have not tried it yet because my sister has layed claim to my tractor feeding her beef cows everyday. I cant wait to try it out and report back . I am waiting for my first new sawblade to arrive soon and then I can go to the saw shop in rice, mn. and pick it up. a nice 2 hour drive , been fixing up a old barn and putting in a clutch on my old r john deere and now I have visions of a small solar kiln. What have you got going on for projects?
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

mitch

UncleBuck,

Bring your JD  R down to North Carolina after you rebuild the clutch and we will see how it compares to my old G when pulling the mill with a long flat belt. Does your clutch sling any oil to get on the flat belt?



Mitch

UNCLEBUCK

hi mitch, that is neat how you mounted the pulley on the sawdust side like that , when I had the R powering the mill I was on the other side where the boardman works and did not like it . I guess I have been backwards from the start ! my clutch does not sling oil but I just replaced the pulley and clutch drive from a salvage yard and then got 2 new linings from john deere , I put it all back together and forgot to pack the roller bearing on the pulley, I thought it ran in a oil bath but thankful that my i&t shop service manual just came in the mail so I have to slip it apart and pack that one bearing. It sure is simple how john deere let the farmer replace his own clutch like that , everything is right out in the open, too bad it isnt that way now. I sold most of my big tillage tools and I am going back to the old way where I could plow all day on 5 dollars of fuel . Bigger definately wasnt better for me and I am going to be proud sittin on the old john deere this time instead of being embarrased like when I was a young guy. I hope you keep showing updates you have done on your mill, its a balmy minus 17 this morning , wish I was in north carolina  :D
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Plowboy

Hey UB, not much going on here.  Today it wasn't to cold out so dad and I unloaded our solar kiln.  We have been wanting to install a skylite paneling on the inside of the roof to give another layer of solar collecting area.  So when the kiln was empty we intsalled the second layer and reloaded the kiln with some cherry and black oak.

I used to have an old John Deere, an unstyled AR.  It was a neat little tractor.  It was in really bad mechanical shape when I got it.  I bought with the understanding that it ran.  When I got it the tractor hadn't ran in a long time.  The clutch and pulley was loose on the crankshaft.  I ended up rebuilding the whole engine and some of the transmisson.  The pto shaft was all twisted up, some of the drive gears under the first reduction cover were bent, and the shifting forks had broke and somewhat welded back together.  I took them out and did a better job welding them.  I sold the tractor this past summer and bought my Woodmizer.  I never got around to finishing the fenders and the hood. I don't have the paintance to do body work and painting.  I did learn a few things, John Deere built a very tough and durable tractor with the two cylinders, and one that was easy to work on also.  If I had a lot of money to throw around I would restore another one, but it would be a row crop tractor.  Here's picture of my AR before I sold it.  



Clarence

Hi, I'm new here so I hope I'm doing this right. I live in Arkansas, and have owned a Belsaw model 14 sawmill since I bought it new in early 1981. I haven't used it in a lot of years now, but I did use it hard for the first 10 years or so. Logged some with a team of mules when I started. I eventually set it up on a metal base instead of wood, and I can cut up to 22' long as I made the base long enough to do that. I've managed to cut up some pretty big logs on it, and did a lot of 3X12's, etc. that were 16 to 20 feet long for a condo builder for a while. I've done some 8X10 21' beams for a barn, too. I've used several power sources over the years. I used a model A John Deere to begin with, then went with a 4 cylinder flat-head motor for a good while till it quit. All belt driven. Then I changed to the PTO system, using different tractors such as a Deutz and model 60 John Deere. I have a model 65 Massey I'd like to try on it now just for fun. I set up an electric hay elevator chain to pull out the sawdust from under the blade as I saw cutting. The mill is on a hill, and the sawdust is shoved down off the side of the hill.The slope of the hill also helps with rolling big logs down the ramp (made with crossties) to the carriage.

I think I need my blade rehammered - where would I get that done? Anyone know? And where's the best place to get the insert teeth? It's been too long. ;D

I also knew an older man back in the early 80's who was using a Belsaw that had the flat belt drive on the carriage moving system so it was an old one. He used a 3-cylinder International to power it. He cut a lot of logs on that thing over the years. He's why I bought mine, and where I learned most of what I know about running them. He kept sawing until he couldn't do it anymore.

I had a guy show up just yesterday wanting to know if I would sell my mill to him. I haven't got the foggiest idea what to ask for it. I know what I paid for it, though.  ;D

I'm looking forward to hearing from "ya'll".

Clarence

J_T

Know a man got a m14 been sawing tyes over 10 years,wore out tthe carrage wheels more once still going. Had disscion on bits not long ago someone better me can point you thare. Here some get things from Piper's -800-845-6075or I would call TimberKing they still have some parts an are nice folks 8)
Jim Holloway

mitch

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Clarence.
I too started sawing back in the mid seventies with a 1941 A John Deere. Switched over to a W JD power unit (engine from a D JD). Now I saw with a G or 730 JD diesel. Some images are at url
http://shagbarkfarms.com

For saws, bits and shanks I have had excellent service from B. H. Payne
 http://www.paynesaws.com/

For some general circular saw info
http://shagbarkfarms.com/Sawmill/!saws_info.html

Mitch

UNCLEBUCK

Welcome Clarence, I took a peek at your website and thought it was great ! Hope you post a new topic and show everyone your sawmill stuff too ok . Plowboy youre far better than I will ever be at fixing john deeres , thats nice stuff you did to that tractor . Check out Clarences website if you get a chance .
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Buzz-sawyer

Unclebuck
Your hydraulic control station looks just like mine....I have the same feed set up too......... :)
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Thank You Sponsors!