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john deere 350 dozer

Started by Flintlock427, October 14, 2018, 02:27:32 PM

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Flintlock427

I might be in the wrong place? ,does anyone know if I can adjust /replace the steering brakes on my little dozer with this forester cage install, and how to adjust said brakes.

  


Revival Sawmill

It's do-able.  You have to take off the tracks and final-drive assembly.  The clutch/brake-bands are all together.  It ran me about $3500 at the dealer-shop about five or six years ago.  Good machine!

Flintlock427

thanks ,I probably want put that much in it  .I am looking for a 450 ,I have found a 550 but its to big for my trailer

Flintlock427

ED D that's a very good u tube thank you very much , I will tackle the adjustment when I quit working 60 to 70 hours a week .

Revival Sawmill

The real kicker is that the 'c' model of that machine has a hydraulic/wet clutch/brake system that I've heard holds up much longer than this dry version...

Wisconsintimber

Yeah, it depends on the series...straight 350, A-B-C...The early one were dry clutches and they can be prone to moisture issues.  The later ones are wet clutches and were better I think.  Ours has dry clutches and we have had to replace one side.  Adjustments can be made through a 4 bolt cover under the seat.(one on each side)

Ed D

Flintlock,
Yes the "C" model has the clutches in a hydraulic fluid - a much better set up than the dry clutches.
The dry clutches get hot with operation and the inside of the housing will build up condensate.  The condensate eventually rusts up the plates so that they need replacement.  A workaround is to drill a hole in the center of the cover and tap the hole with a 1/2" pipe thread.  Make up a vent with 1/2" plastic pipe in an inverted U shape - that will help eliminate some of the moisture.
Glad the video was of some help.
Ed

bandmiller2

The older small Deere dozers with dry clutches had a bad habit of rusting and sticking. I have three small blocks one holding the clutch pedal down about half way and the other two holding the steering clutch levers released. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Wintergreen Mountain

     Perfect video ED-d furnished for you. 

    One thing to be carful with is the 3/4" hex head adjusting bolt. If you haven't adjusted the brakes for a long time, it is probably rusted down in the turnbuckle. DO NO FORCE IT! If it doesn't turn with a few good firm tug use penetrating oil and keep working it back and forth until it continues to loosen. It will break under extreme force. I have adjusted a lot of these steering clutches. Be patient and take your time. let the penetrating oil soak in for a few days if needed.
1920 Ford 4x4 tractor, forks & bucket. 2010 36" Turner Mills band mill. Cat-Claw blade sharpener. Cat-Claw Dual Tooth Setter. Cat D3 crawler dozer. Cat 215c excavator, Ford L9000 dump truck. Gardner Denver 190 portable air compressor. KatoLight 40Kw trailer mounted gen set. Baker M412 4-head planer.

charles mann

My old 450 C had to go to the dealer for steer/brake band repair. $5000 later, used drums and reshoed bands, that held and did their job, but BARELY. Was never the same and the dealer even said it wouldnt act the same as before. Evidenlty the drums are as rare as hen's teeth and the ones available, were extremely costly. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

bandmiller2

Crawlers are expensive heart breakers. If the job can be done on rubber by all means do it on rubber, I have owned three still have one. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

alanh

Yep, we had a 350B that got all jammed up, got rid of it and got a 350C 35 years ago, great machine hasn`t been apart, we still use it for plowing the road into the camp in Vermont. 

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