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Finish recommendations?

Started by blackfoot griz, November 03, 2019, 01:21:09 PM

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blackfoot griz

I just cobbled together this pot rack and installed it over the top of the staircase going down to the basement. I was going to get a chunk of granite for the top, but dug around and glued up some 2X  fir I had stashed. The top is not intended to be used as a cutting board, but what finish could be used that would be food safe? I am leaning towards a couple coats of flat polyurethane. Would that be ok for rolling out dough etc.?

 

 

 

doc henderson

mineral oil is cheap and food safe, but does not seal the wood.  poly in not food safe per se but if used as stated would prob. be ok.  the trouble is if you make a compromise and finish non food safe, and someone else uses it the way they want and does not follow your rule to not cut raw meat as an example on this wood.  I would recommend a harder wood and smooth as to not harbor food juice and bacteria.  your top looks rough on one side and I assume it will be planed and or that is the underside. can also install it in a way that it can be changed out later if it is not working as intended.  they make a butcher block finish, I think a brand is boos.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

samandothers

Don't knock one of the cast iron items off the top!

Larry

One can read that any finish is food safe once cured.  I'm not totally convinced.  Polyurethane is a surface finish and can flake off.

I've been using mineral oil mixed with paraffin.  The paraffin seals and fills the pores.  My biggest reason for using it is its so easy for somebody to renew the finish when it starts looking shabby.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

blackfoot griz

Quote from: samandothers on November 03, 2019, 10:41:58 PM
Don't knock one of the cast iron items off the top!


There is a "guard rail" along the top on three sides to prevent that from happening. I tried to push the larger Dutch oven  off the back and, fortunately, it wouldn't slide off.
Quote from: Larry on November 03, 2019, 10:52:47 PM
One can read that any finish is food safe once cured.  I'm not totally convinced.  Polyurethane is a surface finish and can flake off.

I've been using mineral oil mixed with paraffin.  The paraffin seals and fills the pores.  My biggest reason for using it is its so easy for somebody to renew the finish when it starts looking shabby.


Larry, what ratio of mineral oil/ paraffin:do you use? I am assuming you heat it up prior to application?

Thanks for the feedback.

Ruffgear

I believe poly would be great for this. I've used it on countertops numerous times. You could use a hard wax oil, you just have to reapply from time to time. The only issue with wax is it's hard to go back, it's hard to know if you got all wax off for good adhesion.

ponderosae

It looks nice. There are black plastic cutting boards that would match. Those are made of High Density Polyethylene (HDPE). Some can be ordered custom sized... smiley_heh_heh

Larry

Not sure on the proportions.  I shave paraffin into a squeeze bottle until its about half full.  Next I add mineral oil and adjust until its the right consistency.  I mixed my bottle about 10 years ago and keep adding mineral oil and paraffin as I use it up.

I also tried mixing it with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and paraffin one time.  I can't see much difference between the mixes. 

I heat it in sunlight or in hot water while I mix it up and before I use it.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

blackfoot griz

 

 

Well, I got some of this stuff and put it on. The top was made of material laying around. It will be easy to change the top if desired. Thank you for the feedback!

 

doc henderson

the top looks great!  I cannot read the name on the bottle?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

blackfoot griz

 

 


Doc...this is the stuff. Probably not as good as Larry's concoction, but convenient. 3 coats on and enough left over for future touch ups...or other projects.

doc henderson

it looks protected and the satin sheen fits well with the other rustic elements.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

low_48

I've never had poly flake off. I use it all the time on salad bowls I make. I don't slather it on and make the bowl look like plastic.  I coat to seal the wood and sand fairly heavy with 320 sandpaper. 2nd light coat and sand with 600. It makes a dull finish and is very close to the wood.

samandothers

I like the piece of furniture and your top.  The use of the corrugated roofing (I am guessing material and assuming reclaimed from old roof) adds a nice touch.  Did you sand blast the front and clear coat?  The back appears rusted and is a nice rustic look.  Was the back coated as well? 

blackfoot griz

The corrugated material is pretty heavy. I bought it new, sanded it lightly then sprayed it with vinegar. I waited a few days and hit it again with a vinegar/hydrogen peroxide and table salt solution and that did the trick. It was finished with 3 coats of flat poly. Now, you can wipe it with a damp rag and none of the rust wipes off. It is easy to do. While I have a fair amount of time in it, the total cost of the materials is under $200 for the whole thing.

samandothers

Neat approach.  Easier than waiting for nature and then removing from a roof and having to still sand and seal!

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