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Started by marty3d, April 05, 2021, 11:35:08 AM

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marty3d

A few years ago we had a microburst that center-punched my property - knocked down 30-40 trees.  As I was clearing that, I was thinking about how I would like to use the wood - and a sawmill seemed a good choice.  I ended up buying a sawframe kit from Linn Lumber and started designing and building the rest myself.  I wanted to do both boards and firewood with it, so it became a bit complicated.  The sawmill portion is now mostly done.  Blade guards are being finished right now 'cause I don't want to be eaten by the machine.  The engine is a 32hp Generac - given to me by friends after their shop burned up - including the rest of the generator set.  The little control box runs the show.

  

 

 

 

 

   
Retired - and busier than ever.

kelLOGg

Nice work. I'm interested in how you will cut firewood and lumber on the same machine. 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Wassup8687

Very ingenious. Good luck with it.

Brob1969

I am REALLY interested to learn more about your hydraulic setup. 

What kind of pump are you using?  How many gpm?  What controls?

Looks like you are moving right along with the build.  
Looking forward to seeing more.
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

marty3d

The hydraulic pump is kinda generic - runs on 12v or 24v.  I am using 24.  You can find it using this AISN number: B01D2ESPKM. It puts out about 3gpm.  Raises and lowers the backstop and what I call the pincher.  The pincher pushes the log or cant against the backstops and holds it there.  It takes just 5 seconds or so to raise or lower.  I am using an Arduino to control everything - it operates the hydraulic directional control valves through a MOSFET board (power transistors).  I have a log rotator in the works which will also raise/lower and rotate using the hydraulics.  I have it set up so I can push one button and use the joystick to position the saw head, up or down, fwd or rev.  A different button engages the cut and locks out the vertical.  The cut speed is controlled by a knob that you can leave from one cut to the next.  Just push the button and it goes.  The vertical is operated by two large stepper motors.  Kinda slow, but I can get repeatable cuts within a few thousandths of an inch (each step is 1/4000").
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

I did the first cut about 15 minutes ago.  I intended to have 'cruise control' on the motor but that isn't working yet.  Still, cuts fast and no alignment issues.  At this point, I give it some throttle, push the cut button, and I can control engine speed using the cut-speed knob.  Kicks the board off as it backs up.
Retired - and busier than ever.

Nebraska

Congratulations on the build! :)

trimguy


btulloh

What kind of steppers are you using?
HM126

marty3d

Quote from: btulloh on April 06, 2021, 01:11:06 PM
What kind of steppers are you using?
NEMA34, 1712 oz-in.  I think they were from StepperOnline...not100% sure.
Retired - and busier than ever.

sawguy21

How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Osterman.r

Also, did you put a carb on the motor? Assuming it was run on propane in a genset?

Vautour

Nice solide build... i've got the very same 32 hp generac motor on my ongoing build and am curious how you Mcgivered the shaft.... @sawguy21 if i remember correctly you mentioned to me that those motors were not made to have a side load and would eventually blow the bearing and motor casing apart and was very grateful for that tip,.. so i added a coupler and jackshaft for my pulley.
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

marty3d

Quote from: sawguy21 on April 06, 2021, 02:26:09 PM
How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
I ended up machining a taper into the centrifugal clutch/drive pulley.   
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Quote from: Osterman.r on April 06, 2021, 02:32:27 PM
Also, did you put a carb on the motor? Assuming it was run on propane in a genset?
I bought a carb and manifold online - the original manifold was plastic and burned up anyway.  The manifold was intended for a vertical shaft motor so I cut the ends off, rotated them, and attached it back together with sections of hose.  I am using two hobby servos to operate the choke and throttle.
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Quote from: Vautour on April 07, 2021, 05:23:36 AM
Nice solide build... i've got the very same 32 hp generac motor on my ongoing build and am curious how you Mcgivered the shaft.... @sawguy21 if i remember correctly you mentioned to me that those motors were not made to have a side load and would eventually blow the bearing and motor casing apart and was very grateful for that tip,.. so i added a coupler and jackshaft for my pulley.
I hadn't heard that about the limited side loading.  I did find that the motors had straight shafts in some applications - different crankshaft.  That at least suggests that side loading is possible.  I think Dixie Mowers uses these with a vertical shaft in some of their large ZTR mowers.
Retired - and busier than ever.

Brob1969

Quote from: marty3d on April 07, 2021, 11:45:50 PM
Quote from: sawguy21 on April 06, 2021, 02:26:09 PM
How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
I ended up machining a taper into the centrifugal clutch/drive pulley.  
I once had a Chinese diesel generator that the generator side blew up but the little single cylinder diesel was still going strong.  
I "milled" the tapered shaft to accept a pulley.  By milled I mean I started the engine and ran my angle grinder back and forth on the shaft until I got it relatively even and slightly oversized.  Then I used a flat bastard file to get it to size, then sandpaper to finish it off.  I did it all on the back of my pickup, it actually worked out pretty well. 
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

marty3d

My son-in-law and I took the machine out to Montana to cut some wood for friend.  Having only sawed one log as a trial run, we brought a large assortment of tools with us.  The logs were Douglas Fir, blown down in a windstorm a few months ago.  For the most part, the machine worked - decently - but there is much room for improvement.  I programmed a 'cruise control' or governor for the throttle, but the microcontroller lost track of rpms when they got over 1700 or so.  In that event, it went to full throttle and threatened to scatter the motor parts all over the property.  I am installing a faster microcontroller.  

In a similar electronic vein, the main microcontroller refuses to talk to the controller in the control box - so I don't get height, cut, or power readouts.  So, hand measuring, which really slows things down.  

And, a few other things, but the potential remains.  I now have four days to effect improvements - and go back for more.

CANI - constant and never-ending improvement.
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Quote from: Brob1969 on April 07, 2021, 11:58:48 PM
Quote from: marty3d on April 07, 2021, 11:45:50 PM
Quote from: sawguy21 on April 06, 2021, 02:26:09 PM
How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
I ended up machining a taper into the centrifugal clutch/drive pulley.  
I once had a Chinese diesel generator that the generator side blew up but the little single cylinder diesel was still going strong.  
I "milled" the tapered shaft to accept a pulley.  By milled I mean I started the engine and ran my angle grinder back and forth on the shaft until I got it relatively even and slightly oversized.  Then I used a flat bastard file to get it to size, then sandpaper to finish it off.  I did it all on the back of my pickup, it actually worked out pretty well.
I used to be a waterfront guy - and one time a tugboat came in with a wrecked gearbox.  The factory sent a new gearbox, with a technician (probably a $100k box).  Well one of the shafts arrived without a keyway.  This tech borrowed a jig saw and spent a whole day carving a keyway and filing it by hand so things would work.  Machinery hacks are the best - imho.
Retired - and busier than ever.

nativewolf

Liking Walnut

marty3d

Quote from: marty3d on April 07, 2021, 11:45:50 PM
Quote from: sawguy21 on April 06, 2021, 02:26:09 PM
How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
I ended up machining a taper into the centrifugal clutch/drive pulley.  
I am a novice machinist, and this was the first time I tried to do an internal taper - on my 1919 Sydney lathe.  It didn't come out perfect so I used Loctite 660 to fill the gaps and make sure the two parts rotated together.  
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Here are a couple photos of the engine & mods.  As I said, it came out of a fire and then sat for a while - hence the rust.  Since I didn't have a proper manifold and carb for the horizontal shaft engine I couldn't use the built in governor bits.  I also wanted remote and automatic throttle control.  So I used the hobby servos.  They are waterproof and have several pounds of push/pull.  Far more than is required for this installation.  They also work easily with the Arduino microcontroller that manages the engine.  The silver object in the last photo is the Hall Effect sensor that sends an electrical pulse to the
 Arduino whenever the flywheel magnet passes it.  The three holes in the cover were drilled to use an inspection camera to see how close to the flywheel the end of the sensor was. 

 

 
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

But, almost all for naught.  This afternoon as I fired up the engine in the mill, it had the sound of death...rod noise.  Drained the oil and sure enough it had metal flakes in it (only about 10 hrs on the oil).  Went to HF and came back with a 22 hp predator engine.  I have never used a Chonda - but at least it has a governor.  While using it, I expect to try to repair the Generac motor to gain back those additional ten horses.  

The biggest complication is that my drive pulley was modified to fit the tapered shaft.  I now have to reverse the mods to fit a smaller Predator shaft (1").  
Retired - and busier than ever.

Brob1969

I'm interested in learning how the Predator works out.  I've been considering the Lifan 24HP as an upgrade for my 18HP Briggs.  
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

marty3d

Quote from: Brob1969 on April 09, 2021, 11:43:01 AM
I'm interested in learning how the Predator works out.  I've been considering the Lifan 24HP as an upgrade for my 18HP Briggs.  
While not exactly a scientific comparison, the Predator was heavier than the 32hp Generac that it replaced.  It is up and running.  We will be sawing logs with it on Monday.
Retired - and busier than ever.

Brob1969

Looking forward to hearing how it works out. 
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

Silverfoxfintry

Quote from: marty3d on April 08, 2021, 12:14:19 PM
Quote from: marty3d on April 07, 2021, 11:45:50 PM
Quote from: sawguy21 on April 06, 2021, 02:26:09 PM
How are you coupling the engine to the drive? I assume being from a generator the crankshaft is tapered.
I ended up machining a taper into the centrifugal clutch/drive pulley.  
I am a novice machinist, and this was the first time I tried to do an internal taper - on my 1919 Sydney lathe.  It didn't come out perfect so I used Loctite 660 to fill the gaps and make sure the two parts rotated together.  
I had to replace the drive shaft on a 25hp Kohler last year. The shaft had been cut in order to press out the clutch. It took 35t to get it out.
I mounted the crank in my 1954 Boxford (a Southbend clone) holding the drive end in a Three paw steady.
I have a taper turning attachment on the lathe so it was a relatively simple job to bore out the shaft and taper the bore by 3 degrees.
I then machined a replacement shaft using the same angle. I left it 25 thou oversize. The bottom of the tapered hole in the crank was tapped 10mm x 1.5 mm and a high tensile bolt was used as extra security.
The crank was heated to 100c and the shaft cooled to -30c.
A little Loctite was added and the shaft screwed home.
Once everything was cooled to ambient temperature I mounted the crank with the replacement shaft in the lathe and machined the shaft to the finished size.
The key way was milled using the milling attachment on the lathe.
The engine has been rebuilt and is sitting as a spare for now. I intend to fit it to the mill over this summer.
I will let you know how it gets on.
Take care.
Silverfox.

marty3d

A few more details on the drive pulley machining... Because the small end of the taper on the crankshaft is just 0.86" or so, and the bore of the centrifugal clutch/pulley was 1.125" I machined an end cap that had a bolt hole on the outside end and was bored to .75 inside for the rest of its length.  I assembled that into the hub with Loctite and then machined the hub with the plug together.  

Now that I switched engines, I have this hub that is straight bored for the outer 2" but tapered for the inner 1.5"  I had to fit that onto a 1" straight keyed shaft.  I machined an adapter out of aluminum, 1.002" bore with an external taper on one end and 1.123" OD on the other.  Works.  

On my way back to MT with the mill to do some more logs.  Photos when I get back.
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

So we spent a couple days in Montana - the first real work for this machine.  We (my son-in-law) and I built an extension for the saw so we can cut 20ft pieces.  Our customer, a family friend, needed a number of 20ft full dimension 2x12's.  That little addition is working well.  And, we are learning a ton.  (this is the first time either of us have run such a thing).  

Unfortunately, the extension doesn't allow the use of the power feed or board eject.  (heavy labor)  But, I am happy to note that the 22hp Predator engine has been working well.  Starts easily, fairly quiet.  Seems to have an appropriate amount of power compared to its specs.

   
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

So, it ran well, but the stepper motors that lift the saw frame are much too slow.  It was ok to take 3 seconds to drop an inch down for the next board - but it was taking like forever to raise the saw back up for the next log.  Probably only 2 minutes, but that seems like forever.  So, I have installed a couple DC motors, intended for scooters or something like that.  They take 24v and 22 Amps.  The nice thing about DC motors is that they have very high stall/low speed torque.  Anyway, I installed them and now the saw frame moves at about two inches per second.  I am in the middle of integrating them with the NC controls so I will get accurate pre-set moves, up or down. Instead of counting pulses with the stepper, it now relies on an encoder to send position information back.

 


 

 

Making this switch also freed up a ton of real estate in the controls box (second photo) so I decided to re-organize the components to make diagnosing and servicing it easier.   I also added an encoder to the motor that moves the saw carriage.  Since the motor shaft had a nut on it, I used a socket, a hex drive adapter, and some rubber hose to connect the encoder to the shaft.  With encoders on both axes, X and Z, my system will know where everything is- and be able to move the saw up and down as well as back and forth, without my input.
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Update - Finished building the toe board and log turner.  Both are hydraulically operated - and as yet untested.

 

 
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

So, it has been a while.  But no idle time.  My mill was being held hostage by some guy named Murphy who was busily pointing out all the weak spots.  As a result, I have done a few jobs in the mean time but I have rebuilt some aspects of the mill several times.  Anyway, it is working again.

Biggest change is that I have taken the large carriage moving chains and drive motor out of the system.  I have replaced them with a smaller motor that sits on top of the saw carriage and two #35 roller chains.  The advantage to this is that the original drive system used an encoder but was too far from the control processor to send the signal directly.  I tried using a separate Arduino and a communication system, but that was unreliable.  The encoder, and a new control box with the Arduino Mega2560 is now on the carriage and both the carriage position and saw height are read reliably.  A separate bonus is that the end of the roller chain runs over a section of a sprocket and is secured by only a bungee cord.  I am building an extension to the mill and this allows me to extend the power feed as far as I want.

The saw lift is still done by two DC motors, but they are hooked up differently.  They can lift the saw 24 inches in just ten seconds or so.  I have added a small box with what I call AutoCut and AutoReturn buttons - with speed controls.  To cut a 10 ft log, I move the saw to the start point with a joystick.  Hit the AutoCut button and the saw proceeds through the log.  When it reaches the end, I hit the AutoReturn button and the saw proceeds for another 6 inches to allow the eject dogs to drop down and the saw raises 1/2" so the blade clears the log.  I hit the AutoReturn button again and the saw ejects the board and runs back to where the log started - not all the way to the end of the carriage.  When it gets there, it drops down to cut the next board automatically (assuming I have previously entered the board thickness using a button and the encoder knob).

Ok, I will post a vid soon...  in the mean time, here is a photo of the control box and joystick.  The end of the roller chain can be seen on the far side.

 
Retired - and busier than ever.

marty3d

Here is the promised video...  I can't demo the lifting mechanism because I stripped the threads out of the nut on one side   :(

Mill Hydraulics: Mill

And, I built what I call the Claw - for gripping logs to be loaded by my boom truck. The Claw

Retired - and busier than ever.

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