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One of those days.

Started by Kirk_Allen, December 17, 2005, 07:21:02 PM

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Kirk_Allen

I got a new Accuset Board from WM Friday and spent the better part of the day working on the mill. 

The new version required that I change the pully on the up/down motor to a smaller pully and to install a fuse or filter onto the board. Well getting the old pully off was more than interesting.  The set screw was frozen in place.  No heat, cold, hammer or Rust Reaper would break that stupid screw loose.  After blowing over 2 hours trying to get one stupid pully off I finaly said enough is enough and I chiseled it off. 

BAD MOVE. 

Now the motor is broke :(  I took it apart and one of the internal magnets has come loose from the housing.  Looks like it was glued in place but now its loose and the motor grinds real bad. 

I managed to get everythign wired for the new accuset board but now when I turn the key on I get a "Check Transducer" message on the screen and nothing works.  All connections to the transducer are good.

I unhooked the transducer and I still get the same error message.  After letting it sit for several minutes I turn the key on and got the right display to show up.  I set up the calibration and figured it was good to go.  Turn the key off and back on and it wont work.  Same error message of "Check Transducer"

Why is it that stuff has to break when its cold and always on a weekend :(

WH_Conley

Just to make life interesting I guess. :'( :'(

I know that's when everything breaks here.
Bill

VA-Sawyer

Kirk,
The motor on my sharpener had a loose magnet. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it with some 'superglue'. So far, it is doing OK.
I have learned that sometimes the best way to deal with a 'frozen ' part,  is to spray well with penetrating oil, set it in a warm spot overnight and leave it alone.  If I keep dinking with it, I usually end up breaking it and losing at least another day replacing it.
VA-Sawyer

Fla._Deadheader

 If ya didn't completely trash the magnet, it can be epoxied back in place. Gotta get whatever is stuck on the motor housing chipped out, and clean the housing REAL good. A motor shop should be able to get you going again.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Kirk_Allen

Well we will see how the magnet is in the morning.  I got it all clean and epoxied back in place and it looks like it will work just fine. 

Still have the error message problem.

SPARKS - HELP!!!

VA-Sawyer

Kirk,
I know that you said the connections to the xducer are good, but I'm suspicous that you get the same error message if the xducer is unhooked. Could it be a flakey connection? Could it be a bad spot in the cable?
VA-Sawyer

Bibbyman

Yep,  you need to talk to Sparks.  He'll fix you up.  

We've went through all of this and the upgrade is great!  The new pulley wheel and belt will speed the drops up about a 1/3 I'm guessing. You won't be able to keep up pullin' boards once you have it up and running.  

We got the same "check transducer" message with ours.  They had to send out another wiring patch that added some kind of filter in the line to the transducer.  I think it has something to do with what vintage mill you have.

Hang in there.  Your patience will be rewarded.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Kirk_Allen

I spoke with Rick when I was in Indy and he set me up with one filter that goes on the ACC post of the key, ground, and the then to the 12vdc wire on the accuset.  No problems with all that.  Is there another filter that has to be installed?  I had version 2.1 and the stuff I got was supposed to take care of any issues.  The board I have is a test board so maybe that is the problem.  EVEN NEWER VERSION 8)

Sure hope its something simple.  I have to take Jim to Indy early Monday morning and I am half tempted to take the mill with me and stop by WM and make sure we get it fixed ASAP.

Lost a whole weekend of cutting and that stinks but I guess I cant complain.  Besides, no one wants to listen to a complainer ;D


Bibbyman

I think we're on 4.8...  :o  'posta be the latest. 

Yea,  it'd be some effort to drag your mill to WM but that's be one way of making sure it's working right.  There are some settings they've had to "twink" in the programming depending on models, etc.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Minnesota_boy

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on December 17, 2005, 07:33:32 PM
If ya didn't completely trash the magnet, it can be epoxied back in place. Gotta get whatever is stuck on the motor housing chipped out, and clean the housing REAL good. A motor shop should be able to get you going again.

When you epoxy that magnet back in it can be put in two ways.  One works.  Mark it before you take it out as mine had no markings on it to show which way it belonged.  It's much easier to put it in the right way first than it is to remove it again after the epoxy has set up.  ::)
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Kirk_Allen

I THINK I put it back in right ;D.  Will find out this morning. 

After getting it all cleaned up you could see a pattern stain from the previous glue and I matched that stain pattern to ensure it went back in the same way. 

Kirk_Allen

Well the motor runs but still grinds pretty bad.  Looks like a replacement is needed :(

After getting bit by a one monstor of a snow snake I turned on the key and the display popps up normal. No more error message.  Turned it off and on several times and all was good.

Went back out a few minutes later and now the error message is back. 

I hate these typs of problems since troublshooting them is impossible without all the schematics. 

Minnesota_boy

If the motor still grinds, take it apart again and look for a little piece of the ceramic magnet stuck somewhere that the armature can touch it.  It may have made a mark on the armature to give you a clue.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Kirk_Allen

Well looks like I now have a spare set of bushings.  I taken the motor apart and cant find ANYTHING wrong with it. No loose parts, no scaping that I can see.

It turns fine by hand with no appearent grinding but the minute you put power to it it grinds and then stops working. 

beenthere

You can just put the 'spares' back any 'ol place.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Minnesota_boy

Check both magnets.  One of them is coming loose on one side.  Wanna know why I think that?  :D
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Kirk_Allen

I assume you have beenthere donethat ;D

The magnet is tight and the epoxie seems to be holding great. 

Minnesota_boy

When you apply power to the motor, the armature becomes energized, an electromagnet.  It pulls one of the magnets, which normally ride just a few thousandths of an inch away, into the armature.  Somewhere one of the magnets is moving.  It takes a pretty good pull to move it or you would have done by hand.  Try to (very carefully) pry one edge of the magnets.  Be really careful to not put too much pressure as you can break the magnet and then will have to replace the motor.  Oh wait, that is what you are planning to do anyway, so no great loss if the magnet does break.  It's likely the magnet you didn't epoxy in place if that helps you any.  Try both sides of both ends of both magnets.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

sawguy21

Quote from: Minnesota_boy on December 18, 2005, 05:15:50 PM
Check both magnets.  One of them is coming loose on one side.  Wanna know why I think that?  :D
:D :D :D :D :D I have seen this a lot on permanent magnet motors too.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

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