I have a 80's model MaCollugh 610 and when I got it It had a 24" bar it's pretty heavy duty but the slot for the adjustment pin is larger than the pin diameter by about an 1/8th of in inch. it appears to me that someone has replaced the bar at some point but I'm not sure however with that extra space and the weight of the bar, it makes it difficult getting the chain back on after cleaning the bar which I like to do after every Job or end of day. also it doesn't have an outside sheild/chainguide. So does anyone know if this might be a replaced bar and should there be a guide plate on the outside? The Bar is a replaceble roller tip 6" wide 24" from spikes 28" total length ? I know Mac had a 24" option for the 610 but this sure is making me not want to clean as often took me two hours last time to get it lined up again and there is always up and down movement due to the enlarged slot which makes it hard also to get the proper chain tension
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
I love this saw but oh what a pain keeping it cleaned
perhaps there is a TIP that someone has to assist putting the bar back on properly and securely
Put the bar and chain on with the saw standing on it's belly.
this is the saw just fyi
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57840/McCullogh_PM610~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1575478254)
having trouble adding photo hope this works this time LOL
Any Mac 10 series bar will work .Some had slightly different holes you talk about but they all should work .Somebody might have hung a Husqvarna or a Partner bar on it which could cause a problem .Some of them fit up nice and some don't .
With a different bar the driver count on the chain might be one driver too short .Kind of hard to do much without seeing it .
The PM610 takes an Oregon D176 mount - lotsa bars out there. IIRC, there is no bar plate on the clutch cover. There is a BIG bar plate on the case - it even encircles the clutch.
Thanks dougand3 I was actually more concerned abt the plate but I managed to find a parts diagram and it showed a plate for the cover side, but the diagram was for several saws 605 610 etc. etc. I have decided that that bar was NOT made for that saw nor does it fit properly oh it will cut with it but you can't maintain proper chain tension and I noticed by the fact that when it is to tight it binds like stated above 1 drive tooth off, when loose it does great but you cant keep it straight wants to drift. I'm just going to get a new bar chain match if I can find one today it took me 3 1/2 hrs fighting with that bar trying to get the adj pin lined up at same time keeping chain in place and deciding blade up or down cause at the tip it rises 2 in in height thats how much play is in that pin hole I want to stay safe and that sloppy mount scares me and I dont want to wear the saw out sprocket or clutch this saw runs like brand new I think some homeowner bought it new pinched ruined the bar slapped an available one on and said too much saw for me LOL and sold it it has 195 psi comp. starts first pull unless cold and not a scratch on it like its been garaged all it's life paid 25 bucks for it slapped 10 bucks in a carb and feul line kit and thats all
ok I went 1 step further and removed the clutch and sprocket and to my surprise (not) the sprocket was worn almost out so I also checked the adjuster pin and yes the pin was nearly gone worn to a nub. so I found another saw PM605 paid $10.00 for it and although it didn't have a bar and chain I have a complete parts saw for it checked the sprocket anf the adj and yay it is all good so i'm ordering a new bar and chain as soon as I can find a good one but I think I will try to get a 18" instead of the 24"
So I have another question what length of bars does everyone prefer for just homeowner type use and firewood for personal use only our harvest trees here average around 12" to 16"
for me, I like a 20 to 24 inch bar.
As far as the saw most likely the most overlooked and under rated saw ever built.Originally sold with a 20" ,tool kit etc for around $225 .Later sold by K-Mart with a 16" on sale for $169.95 .People belly ache about them because of the weight because for 60 cc it's not a light weight by any means but they are good cutters .
I have 3 in my shed mine my deceased fathers and one I bought for my son which looks nearly new .I suppose over the years I've had over a dozen I'd picked up for pennies ,did a small amount of work and sold them .It's a lot of saw for the money because they don't fetch much .
As I see it every saw made has a weak link .This model ,the recoil and the oiler .Good anti vib system but it will shake the mounting bolts loose .It's not a bad idea to periodically tighten things up .----a stitch in time saves nine they say ---
I'm happy w/ it, I now have $65 in to it and have cut two cords of wood and not a single pinch, kickback, stall, or start issue I do have an issue with the cold starts needing a primer shot to get going and your right abt things coming loose the spike bar fell off had to find new bolts and nuts and yes my sore muscles tell me it is heavy absolutely a "mans saw" but it handles great plenty of power easy to work on tough as Iron
Most likely you have one of two things.Either the choke is not shutting completely or because of the age the carb innards have became stiff .Rebuilding the carb is not a big deal and the kits are inexpensive .