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I'm looking for suggestions on how to stabilize my mill

Started by ChuckinVa, May 01, 2011, 11:23:42 AM

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ChuckinVa

I have a Hudson Oscar 18 mill with three six foot sections of rail 18 foot overall. I set the rail on 6X6 treated boards to get it off of the ground and so I could get it level.
After cutting some logs yesterday I was pretty frustrated with the arrangement because as I load the logs onto the rail, the rail moves and then I have to go back through and tweak the rails to get them level or back on the 6X which is difficult to do with the log on the rail. So I am looking for suggestions on a better way to do this. The ground slopes about 11/2" over the width of the rails so I would have to build it up on the lower side to get level.I'm open for suggestions on ways to keep the rails level and in place. I have been rolling the logs on the mill with a couple of boards as a ramp, and tried lifting the logs on the rails with the bucket on my tractor but that was not a good solution as the log dragging along the rails moved the rails as well.

Thanks,

CHUCK

MReinemann

Chuck,
I have the oscar 121 and know exactly what you mean.  I ended up cutting some 1" boards and throwing them under at every cross member on the rail the shiming them to get the track level off of that.  Then took some 4x4's and trimmed the ends at a angle so i could roll the logs onto them then they roll and gently drop onto the mill which is maybe like 2" lower than the 4x4s.  You could probably just set the logs onto the 4x4's or 6x6's with your tractor to and "stage" them and then just roll the next log onto the mill when your ready for it.  Found this tends not to move the track as much as when you try to wrestle them up onto the mill rail and sliding the rail off your shims.  Eventually I will set it on a level cement slab but for now i've been doing it this way till I get the mula to do the slab.  Just my 2 cents theirs a lot more guys on here with a lot more knowledge than me i'm just getting started with this stuff my self.
-Matt

LPitt

The only way I have found to keep things from moving is to anchor it down. I didn't have the money to pour a slab so what I did was form up and pour footings and anchored it to that. My track is 20' with 5 footings on each side.
Linn Lumber 1900 hyd, Bobcat T190 with grapple ect., Kubota MX 5100, Ford 555E backhoe, Sthil ms460, home made wood splitter, and more projects than I can count.

Magicman

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Tom

All mills take a beating when logs are ramped, loaded and turned on them.  The little push mills are especially susceptible because their rails are relatively small and they depend on the ground rather than a leveling mechanism.

Most of the push mills, or ground-mounted mills I've ever seen require substantial footings, like concrete or large timbers.  Even the small push mills usually end up on Railroad Cross-ties, tied together to minimize movement.

Temporary light-weight stuff just won't get it.

Whitman

HI  I have mine on a old patio and sidewalk with treated 6X6 timbers as abase. the railes have one hole 5\16 each side at these crosstimbers so I can screw them down with a lag bolt and chims as needed. I load with a front loader as EASY as I can. Rolling the log is the ruffest on this setup.Be carefull not to drill too many large holes in the frame.OSCAR 228

laffs

if it were me id put down a slab, cement is under $100 a yard around here. you could do 12x20 4" thick with 3 yards then build or pour some bunks to the level you want. build a log deck out of 8x8s level with the mill and roll thelogs onto the mill. i used 6x6s but they take a beating
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smwwoody

Hi Chuck,

Where are you located?  We are in Buckingham County.  If you don't want to pour a slab Tom gave some good advice.  We have many tractor trailer loads of used cross ties for sale at our mill and they are very cheep for FF members.  set some cross ties level in gravel spaced the same distance apart as the cross members on your frame.  Then deck the top  of the ties 4 or 5 quarter lumber and bolt the mill down to that.  if you are close stop in some time I would be glad to help you out.

Woody
Full time Mill Manager
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Chuck White

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ChuckinVa

Thanks for the ideas. I agree that pouring a slab would be the surest way to level it out. But I don't know if I want to pour a slab yet. The Cross ties would be heavier than what I have and might be a better solution for now.

Woody, I live in Earlysville. I might be in need of some of those cross ties. Thanks,
CHUCK

mandolin

I have a Oscar 228 and had the same problem. I finally broke down and poured a slab as wide as the track with concrete bolts sticking up. My brother made me some clamps that fit over the bolts and hold the track down. The track is 24 feet long and it works real good. I even built a shed over the whole thing with 2 big fans to help me out in that good ol' south Mississippi summer heat.
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5quarter

Hi Chuck,

  I used treated ends of power line poles set 36" down on a 6" gravel bed .The pilings come up 12" above grade. there are 5 per side and are tied together in pairs with oak 2x6. The mill is levelled with Shingles (waterproof and they do not compress) and bolted down at all 10 points. It does not shift. I use pwer line poles supported with more pilings as my log deck. They are set at a slight slope toward the mill. Also, I built a 4"x8"x 16' deck rail along the log edge of the mill. I bridge the logs between the log deck and the deck rail. Even the big wood rolls pretty smooth onto the saw.

Chet
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

LPitt

Thanks guys, but those birthdays are starting to add up. I had a good day saw all the kids and grandkids.   
Linn Lumber 1900 hyd, Bobcat T190 with grapple ect., Kubota MX 5100, Ford 555E backhoe, Sthil ms460, home made wood splitter, and more projects than I can count.

submarinesailor

Quote from: ChuckinVa on May 01, 2011, 08:59:15 PM
I live in Earlysville. I might be in need of some of those cross ties. Thanks,
CHUCK

Hey Chuck,

My mill is just up the road from you in Syria, VA.  We are the next piece of property up river from Graves Mountain Lodge.

Bruce

ChuckinVa

Quote from: submarinesailor on May 02, 2011, 12:54:14 PM
Quote from: ChuckinVa on May 01, 2011, 08:59:15 PM
I live in Earlysville. I might be in need of some of those cross ties. Thanks,
CHUCK

Hey Chuck,

My mill is just up the road from you in Syria, VA.  We are the next piece of property up river from Graves Mountain Lodge.

Bruce

Bruce, Howdy Neighbor ! My Sister worked @ GML when we were kids. I love the area you are in. It is some pretty country. Reminds me of a different time. We looked at a piece of property near you a couple of year ago but decided to buy somewhere else closer to Charlottesville. Are you milling for profit or for your personal use? CHUCK

submarinesailor

Haven't had a chance to mill in the last few years...way to busy with other stuff.  But, when I do, it's for my use.

Bruce

stormyweatherman

Hi Chuck,

Not sure if this will help.  I have an WM lt 10.  Also a light mill.  WM recommends 4x6 beams lagged to the frame for stability and strength.  I need to break my mill in half when i move it around so that I can get it in my truck.  It weights about 500 lbs +-.  So instead of the 14 foot 4x6 beams,  I permanently lagged 2x4 pt to the base at 8 and 6 foot lengths.  I then carry two 8 foot 4x4s with me when i move the mill and a few shorter pieces for ties at the ends of the mill track.  When I get to a job I assemble the 14 foot mill track in my truck bed, which creates a ramp.  I then slide the mill out enough to get one end on the ground.  the mill head is still on the other end in the truck at this point, pinned to the track.  holding the mill head, i remove the pin and carefully roll the millhead down the track (which acts as a ramp and supported by the 2x4s).  i place the 4x4s as closely in line with where the mill track looks like its going to lay and a cross tie on either end.  then i support the mill track with a saw horse so that its up off the truck and drive away.  i then lift the mill track, remove sawhorse and lower down onto 4x4s.   so far i have been able to run the mill this way without lagging through to the 4x4s but this could easily be done.  i keep an eye on mill to make sure its not shifting.  i've had to block up one end of the mill more than 8 inches to level at time.  of course, i have to spend some time getting everything level and bracing mill.  but with a couple of improvised ramps on the loading side, it works just fine.  i have consistently done 15 to 20 logs per day this way, which probably doesn't sound like much for the hydraulic millers, but it makes a big pile of lumber pretty quick.  hope some of these ideas might help you.  good luck with your mill and have a great year.
if experience is the sum of all my mistakes, then i must know a great deal more than i realize

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