Brush saw blades

[SwampDonkey]

Yes the set gauge is used to keep the tooth at the right angle. As to how long the blade lasts, it depends on how many collisions it has with rocks and fences.  I've had blades last weeks. Some days I might sharpen the blade a couple times in an 8 hr day of cutting. Might go a day or two and not need sharpening. Sometimes if you hit a rock or fence you're sharpening after every tank all day long until you get it just right. A dull blade isn't fun, get a lot less done in a day. After awhile if I see the blade becoming a losing battle, dig out another one. My blades are covered by tax credits as an employee forestry worker.

At one time years ago, you had to set and sharpen the teeth fresh out of the carton.

[livemusic]

@SwampDonkey how tall of a stub do you leave after cutting saplings? I have to cut a lot of hardwood saplings 1/2 inch to 2 inch diameter. I will arbitrarily limit it to 2 inches for this 345FR Husky, I don't want to overtax the 45cc motor but mostly the lower gear unit. I have wanted to cut them as low as I can on trails because of my ATV tires but in the woods, it doesn't matter much. But I worry that sweetgum will just sprout again. I don't know that they will for sure but I do know if you cut the 3-4 inch diameter ones and leave a stump on much height, they will live and sprout again.

I recall a video where the pro was saying don't cut at the ground because it will dull your blade. I do know that about chainsaws but didn't know it mattered much about these circular blades.

Of course, even walking through the woods, you don't want to fight walking through stubs a few inches tall if you don't have to! How do you handle this?

[SwampDonkey]

6" or shorter is the usual spec. Of course maple clumps are likely higher if thinning out the clump or too much damage to the remaining stems. Got one mill here that wants maple clumps left and not cut at all. Got another that wants red maple cut and aspen left if the aspen is decent.

We leave walking paths and cut the stumps a little shorter, Keep gas jug and water and tools on the path. 40-50 meters between parallel paths.

[beenthere]

livemusic
Cut the stumps low, but above the dirt. Treat the stump with chemical that will stop the re-growth and stump sprouting. Avoid having to come back and cut more of the same later. 

You will find out soon enough what dirt and rocks will do to your sharp teeth on the brush saw. Just like a chainsaw tooth, they don't cut when the sharp edge is gone. Much less work when the cutting edges stay sharp, be it a brush blade, an axe, a butcher knife, or a razor blade. 
The teeth are set out to establish a kerf so the blade does not rub in the cut. 

Best of luck getting after the underbrush. Hope you take us along. 

[OddInTheForrest]

I know a lot of people here in Norway and Sweden swore by "Strand klingan". Never tried them, but given how many teams use them, they seem the beezneeze. 

https://www.strandklingan.com/products/

Best regards
Odd
Norways Westcoast.

[SwampDonkey]

The style blade on that clearing saw is what we use. Lots of brands here are Swede.

[BillyTheKid]

I had the same question as Livemusic:  Anyone sharpen these and, if so, how?

Yes, the video is okay, but here's a little more information. If you look on the Stihl blade box (the new designed boxes) have a very detailed diagram on how to sharpen. Yes, 15 degrees is the proper angle to hold the file; also note that the diagram says to hold the file at a 5 degree upward angle so that the pointed part of the blade gets a nice sharp edge on it. Just a couple swipes of the file is adequate as long as you haven't hit a rock or steel.

Incidentally, I did hit steel with a newer blade. I really messed it up, but I was able to fix by taking the blade off the brushsaw and then using my Oregon chainsaw chain grinder to remove the damage. I used the side of the grinding wheel to put a flat edge on it, I then hand-sharpened the blade with 15 degree file. I tested it on some speckled alder and it cut like brand new. I think these maxi blades are overall very forgiving and fairly easy to repair with a little effort.