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Its beginning to look a lot like a sawmill

Started by gms1911, March 12, 2016, 10:25:18 PM

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scully

Awesome build ! What I am seeing here is pure genius !  I'm looking forward to seeing this in action ! Love the floor jack idea !
I bleed orange  .

Ox

Gearing for chains and sprockets is pretty easy.  Just counting teeth on the sprockets is all there is to it.  You have 1/8" per turn right now, so put (for example) a 10 tooth sprocket on your acme rod and use a 20 tooth sprocket hooked to a jackshaft and crank handle to turn the 10 tooth sprocket.  You now doubled your turns at the acme rod and every turn of the handle will turn the acme rod twice.  Every turn of the handle will give you 1/4".  If you used a 40 tooth sprocket on the handle, every turn will give you 1/2" of travel (1/8" x 4).  I have mine set at 1/4" per turn, using threaded rod as a shaft for my crank handle and #40 chain.  I bought the sprockets and chain through McMaster Carr because their selection and prices are pretty good.  Surplus Center may have what you need at even better prices.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: 4x4American on March 31, 2016, 09:37:24 PM
After you add the pictures to your gallery, forget that confusing stuff that 4x4 wrote and do what ljohnsaw wrote page it brings you to, look on the little bar of links, right under where it says forestry forum gallery, and click on 'my gallery', like you were just going there to look at the pictures.  Then, either click one of your albums and find the pictures you want to post, or you can just scroll down and look for the picture you want to post.  Click on the picture.  Now it opens up a bigger screen with the picture you clicked on enlarged.  Just below it you'll see a box that looks like you can type in it because you can.  Now take out a pencil and write that code down on a piece of paper.  Then go to the regular post box, and type the code in exactly how it was originally written, minding capitals and lower cases.  Then press post and you're done!

;D
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

gms1911

So......I didn't get done, but made a lot of progress. Then cut it apart built it again cut it apart and built it a 3rd time. Shew.......I thought I thought threw it and had a plan. Main problem was when I added the back uprights and boxed it in it wasn't square. Come to find out I had one leg that was about 1/4 inch shorter then the other. Man that cost a lot of time and work. But its all Square and plum and level now.

Added the acme rod and they work nicely. Need some advice on the thrust bearings. I don't want to just leave the rod resting on the angle at the bottom. I was thinking thrust bearings sandwiched between a couple of washers. What do ya'll think? 1" rod so I'm thinking 7/8 washers? Well here is a few pix. Oh yeah, I swear when I started my Kubota up it was clockwise looking from the rear. So that's how I built the mill. Guess what? Old Murphy has been hanging around. It was ccw. So I had to redo that too. But that wasn't to hard. I've learned to takc everything in place then come back after I know its going to work and weld it up.

Kbeitz

Thrust bearings comes with hardened washers. You could use a throw out bearing.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

I used hangar bearings for the bottom.  Just like a pillow block, different orientation.  Not bad price wise either.  They don't need to be American bearings for this application, the Chinese ones will be fine.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

gms1911

Thanks Kbeitz. I didn't even think about using throw out bearings. I'll have to look into that. If mine turns out half as nice as yours I'll be happy and figure it was a success.

Kbeitz

If you want cheap just put a brass plate under it.
If you got to your local junkyard it should be easy to find a throw out bearing in the engine pile.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

How about some old lawnmower deck spindles off a junker lawn tractor?  There's decent bearings inside there.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Quote from: Ox on April 13, 2016, 08:39:41 AM
How about some old lawnmower deck spindles off a junker lawn tractor?  There's decent bearings inside there.

They are not made to take side a force. Wont last long.

Whats meeded is something like a "Banded Ball Thrust Bearing"
It's sealed to keep the dirt out.
E-bay has them.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

JRWoodchuck

I machined my ACME rod down to 3/4 on the end and they are resting in 1500lbs trailer axle bearings to support the weight.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

drobertson

looks like fun,, I can smell the grinding dust and weld smoke from here! ;D  not to mention the sawdust between the ears a burning :D  thanks for sharing your build.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Kbeitz

Quote from: JRWoodchuck on April 14, 2016, 01:32:31 PM
I machined my ACME rod down to 3/4 on the end and they are resting in 1500lbs trailer axle bearings to support the weight.

Trailer axles have tapered bearing and are made to take side thrust pressure.
They should work great.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

outpost22

You're doing a great job. It's fun to see what people come up with. I don't know what your plan is to "roll" your cutter on but I thought this picture may help you. The mill is basically an "I-beam" frame with angle iron (turned edge up) on top. The angle is used to rest the cutting heads rollers on which are basically about a 2"-3" diameter grooved wheel. It actually rolls very easily-sometimes too easily  ::)  The dog bars are basically tubing (probably 2" with the dogs slightly larger round stock with flatbar welded to use as dogs. They have a nut welded on the tubing with a threaded "T" handle bolt used to tighten the dogs down.  It's rather crude but simple and easy to work on. I suspect your mill will be quite the jewel when you're finished.  8)
Hope this helps a little:

Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

thecfarm

outpost22,you mean like this.  ;D



 

Kinda the same thing that you did. You can see my lock to keep the head from moving when the wind is blowing.   ;)  It's only finger tight,but keeps it in place.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

gms1911

Thanks for the ideas. I ended up going with a sealed 1" thrust bearing. I ran a nut up the rod so that about a 1/4" of thread was showing and tacked the nut to the rod. So the nut rest on the bearing and the rod keeps it form ever walking.

I welded 1" angle upside down for my track. It runs very smooth. Except for a few of the crossmembers that I guess I cut just a smidge to long. So the casters hit them. Still works, but I will grind the edges off so there is no contact.

I should have the sprockets and chain mounted and will be working on the motor for the raise and lower tonight.

I really enjoy all the different ways everyone comes up with to solve a problem. I'll post more pix tonight or tomorrow.

Ox

Quote:  "I really enjoy all the different ways everyone comes up with to solve a problem."

This is why I absolutely love this place.  All the nice folks from all different walks of life contributing ideas, thoughts and experience makes me very confident that there isn't anything that can't be tackled and solved in these pages.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

outpost22

Quote from: thecfarm on April 14, 2016, 08:55:28 PM
outpost22,you mean like this.  ;D



 

Kinda the same thing that you did. You can see my lock to keep the head from moving when the wind is blowing.   ;)  It's only finger tight,but keeps it in place.

That's too funny :D
I like your lock better than mine. I just use 2 wood wedges to chock the wheels. This is AFTER I found the cutter all the way down 30' at the opposite end one morning due to a wind storm  :o  I tarp this unit until I get my cover built. It works like a sail  >:(
Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

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