Frustrated with my mill today and my lack of knowledge.( Solved hopefully)

[Don K]

Well I went to saw some pine for a fella this morning and was setting up. Dropped the front outriggers, fired up the engine, hit the up switch and nada, nothing, still as a stump. I know I recently cleaned and greased the drum switch contacts but I checked again anyway. Everything else worked on the mill. Got the meter out and the wiring diagram and power is making it  to most contacts and to the simpleset. WM is closed today and after piddling with it for a couple of hours, I got really frustrated, buttoned it up and pulled it home. I am sure it is something simple and when I can get some tech help get it resolved. Patience is not my best trait and I'm really frustrated at my inability to troubleshoot the problem. When my plans get altered it really throws me out off kilter.

Don

[Chuck White]

I had a problem with the up/down function on my mill and just couldn't figure it out.

So I made a post which I can't seem to find.

As a suggestion, disconnect both wires from the up/down motor and test with a test light or meter.

When you move the drum switch lever up, you should have power on one of the wires and when you move the drum switch lever down, you should have power on the other wire.

That will tell you if your trouble is with the drum switch itself or the motor.

If the trouble is with the motor, it could be the brushes aren't making good contact with the armeture.  That could be caused by a buildup of dust or tension lost in the spring.

Hope this helps you!

[cypresskayaksllc]

I had the same sort of problem a little while ago. It turned out to be a loose plug where the wires come from the remote and plug into the sawhead.

[Magicman]

Don, always go back to the last thing that you did.  I overgreased my up/down drum switch once and had a problem.  Check to be sure that you have plenty of "over travel" in the contacts so that the wiping action will clear the grease and make electrical contact.

The voltage on the motor should simply reverse polarity when going up or down.

[learydeere]

I had a issue with mine after i moved it once. The clip on the bottom of the lift chain had broke while moving it and it wouldnt move.  Probably not youre issue but maybe worth checking. Good luck

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
   How can I help? Not sure if you have a Super or Standard hyd mill. Accuset 2 on the Super and Simple Set works or Accuset 2 on the standard hydraulic?
We can start with the up / down curcit breaker. Is there any messages on the screen? There are also green and red lights on the H bridge that tell you diagnostic information. Lights change when the up down drums switch is moved. Accuset 2 also has a diagnostic screen that shows you voltage at the battery and the bridge, should not be much difference in voltage.
Just a few things to check.
Hope this  helps a little until tomorrow.   :(
Marty

[Magicman]

Marty, it should be an LT40 (not SH) with Simple Set.

[kderby]

If it is any consolation Don, this is a good mystery for us to ponder. :  Thanks for writing it up. 

I have a similar mill.  I am going to bet the drum switch is still the culprit.  I often learn things from experiences like yours.  Some of the solutions I learn on this Forum are the best kind...simple but effective!  I am looking forward to your progress!   

Happy New Year!

kderby

[paul case]

It can be aggravating. Kinda expands your vocabulary don't it?
I hope you didn't rename anyones kids on the way home. I know I have had days like that when I can't seem to get anything to work right and it stresses my ''Auditory Comprehension''. ;D Don't let it get you down. It happens to the best of us.
If it is any consolation the head don't want to move on my mill sometimes either. Since it is all manual, the problem is usually me. PC

[isawlogs]

 First thing I would be checking like Tim said, power to the up down motor, then if there is, check the brushes in the motor, they could just be dirty but I would guess at replacing them.

[Magicman]

Since it is all manual, the problem is usually me. PC

That is caused by a lack of "Ballast Compensation''.

[paul case]

Since it is all manual, the problem is usually me. PC

That is caused by a lack of "Ballast Compensation''.

Solved by getting the lead out?   ;D ;D :D    PC

[Magicman]

Na, we just moved you to the front seat.   ;D

Solved by getting the lead out?   ;D ;D :D    PC 

Nope, I saw you putting the lead in.   ;D


 
And then, shall we say, making "adjustments". 


 
Old pictures never lie, and they never fade away.

[terrifictimbersllc]

And some are worried about excessive government surveillance!   :D :D :D

[LeeB]

Now if that ain't redneck, I don't know what is.  :D :D :D :D

[plowboyswr]

Jethrow Bodine would be proud!  :D ;D :D

[Don K]

I have not checked voltage at the motor yet. A bit tough to get at the wires and I didn't want to tackle it in my state of mind yesterday. I have just come back from cutting a load of firewood and I'm pretty calm at the moment. I will go check a few more things and then phone WM if I don't have any luck. I am leaning towards the drum switch. It does not have excessive grease buildup and contacts look clean enough. I was not getting voltage on a contact when the switch was activated in the up position. It has been in the transport position for a couple of months since my last saw job. No issues in movement last time she was motivating up and down.

Don

[LeeB]

I suspect the brushes are stuck.

[bugdust]

I have the same problem most every time I start up after being down for a day or two. I usually rock the switch back and forth a couple times and the head raises. I've cleaned and re-greased the drums but nothing seems to help.

[Don K]

Fellas, I have been to the top of the mountain and have now fallen back into the valley. Frustration runs amok again.

Yesterday afternoon I called WM and got a nice gentleman on the phone named Mike. He helped me along and we determined the issue was with the 1/2 hp motor. Tried the hammer tap with switch activated. Nothing. Mike had done all he could do so after giving me the price on a new motor and some things I could try to resurrect this one he departed. No warrantry and this motor has only 131 hrs on it.

My dad came over and we tackled getting it off the mill and then started tearing it down. Pulled the 2 bolts that holds it together and there was corrosion that was hard little white specks. Pulled the armature out of the housing and there was some surface rust. Brushes looked good and no undue buildup on that end. Removed two tiny screws on the end and pulled it off the bearing. Can you say chinese puzzle? 2 little clips hold the end on the bearing. How in the %$@# was I going to get it back on. The 4 little brushes are pushed in by springs that look like George Washingtons wig. You taking about a pain to put back in. You need 8 hands and 3 helpers. : : After some cogitating on how to hold the brushes back and get the clips back in, I came up with the idea to use cotton string tied to the copper wires on the brushes and wrapped around the wire connections on the back of the endplate. Finally got that end back together and reassembled the motor. Hooked some jumper cables to it from my truck battery and with some spinning of the shaft finally the motor run.

Put it back on the mill and tried it before putting the pulley back on. Worked fine. I was so happy I wouldn't have to plunk down major cash for a new motor while this one still shined like new money. Got every thing back together and run head up and down. Perfect.

Head out this morning back to the saw job and get setup and square up a cant and start to saw down through the cant. Get to the end and hit the up button to climb over the cant and nothing, zilch. I about blow a safety valve off my pressure pot. Since I am now a expert at pulling this motor I yank it off. Remove the housing and lightly sand the armature. Blow it off and wipe down the magnets in the housing. Button it up and reinstall on the mill bracket, try the switch, ah motion is beautiful, run it forward and backwards one time and bam, stops running. Has not budged since.

Have you ever cranked a head up high enough to clear the loading arms in the transport position by hand spinning the up/down  pulley.  : :-\ :( Needless to say a mod is in my future that will allow me to run the hydraulics from the tail of the mill. I would have given most anything for that ability this morning.

So as you can see I am deep in a gully spirit wise and guess I will call WM and see about a new motor. I am sure it is just my rotten luck as usual to get a motor that won't run 1000's of hrs. Maybe better luck with the next one. I know that that is all in running anything mechanical and stuff breaks but I wasn't ready just yet. :( :'(

Don

[Hilltop366]

It has been in the transport position for a couple of months since my last saw job. No issues in movement last time she was motivating up and down.

Don

If I had to guess I would guess that the couple of months has something to do with it, Looks like your a ways from the coast, I got a good idea that all that electric stuff would cause a lot of *&^%$ over hear in the land of rusty cars and green wires, It's real fun some times on my electric / hydro snow plow, man I wish I could get one of those old belt drive plows to fit on the plow truck.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.

[boman1]

Look at having the motor rebuilt...most alternator shops can do it....I have about 3000 hrs on my mill and have rebuilt the drive motor and the up/down motor once at 90.00 a piece.Good luck.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Wondering if you should take that motor inside your warm shop with a 12v battery and meter and do some good testing on it to make sure it is the motor.  Even so then what is going on? Don't know a whole lot about motors but I would have the meter leads on the connections to the brushes and make sure there is 12V there when the motor fails to run. Then its something in the motor windings.  Otherwise there could be a simpler problem.

[Magicman]

I am puzzled, and am not completely satisfied with your situation.  I really do not have any answers or suggestions, but something just is not adding up.  No matter how long the mill has been idle, that motor should not be giving trouble, and should not have to be replaced.

I know that you probably will replace it, and then you probably will be OK, but I do not like things to happen that I do not understand.   :-\

[ladylake]

Make sure the check the crimps on the wire end terminals, if a bit loose you moved them around which might make them work for a while.   Steve