Board witdh varies on a Frick (circular blade) mill

bmurphy96 · October 28, 2017, 11:52:47 PM

I have a Frick mill that I'm pretty new at. We cut some red oak a couple of days ago and I looked at the boards yesterday. I have three 1"x10" boards and each one is wonky - the thickness of the board varies over the 10' of the board by about a quarter of an inch - but not in some consistent manner. It might go from an inch and a quarter for a few feet to an inch and a eight for three feet and then to and inch and 3/16 for a foot or so and then to right around an inch. The only things i can figure is that the blade is wobbling? or the track isn't straight? Any thoughts?

Satamax · October 29, 2017, 04:18:55 AM

Others would reply, may be the blade needs tensioning?

Myself, i don't know anything about this sorry.

Mcavvie · October 29, 2017, 04:45:12 AM

I no nothing about this mill, but from watching my father sawing(he was a rotary sawyer for 40+ yrs.), I would see him adjust from time to time the guides on the front of the blade if it wasn't sawing right. Does your sawhave these blade guides?

Mcavvie · October 29, 2017, 04:55:01 AM

Here is a link to how set up a rotary saw. http://shagbarkfarms.com/public/Sawmill/!saws_info.html

And here is another with more info how to setup a rotary.

http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Circle%20Sawing%20Publications/LD%20Publications/The%20Efficient%20Saw%20Mill_10-09.pdf

Ron Wenrich · October 29, 2017, 06:28:26 AM

It can be lots of things. Is your saw getting hot? How long of logs are you cutting? First thing you do is put in new bits and see if that straightens things up. New bits will take out any problems you have with your filing of the saw. If that doesn't help, then you have other problems.

The saw guide won't help you out too much. That needs to be neutral so you're not pushing the saw with it. You want it tight enough so that you can see light on both sides when the saw it running. Too much of a gap will allow the saw to run a little wild. Pushing on the saw is the same as adding lead. Too much lead will cause the saw to dig in to the long side. But, that wouldn't lead to the variance you're talking about.

Is your saw running at the speed it's hammered for? If you run your saw to slow or too fast, it won't perform as well. You could see a variance there.

Your saw collars may need to be turned. If they get out of whack, they won't support the saw as well.

Your track may not be straight. Sounds like you may have a bit of a U in the track. Your ends are pushed away from your husk. I'm assuming that your track at the husk is tied into the husk. If not, that may mean that has shifted over a bit. It also has to be parallel with your husk. Straighten your track from there. This will cause a variance without the saw getting hot.

You could also have play in your trucks on the carriage. If they have worn bearings, they could allow the carriage to move sideways while in the cut.

There is a bunch of information in the Lunstrum book on efficient sawmill operations. Download and read: https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

Kbeitz · October 29, 2017, 08:38:14 AM

I have a friend that has a Frick . He say when it does that the blade is not standing up.
He said you need to get up to speed to get your blade to stand up. What ever that means?

moodnacreek · October 29, 2017, 06:48:09 PM

If your sawing springy logs you may have to turn 180 for almost every board. Try to keep the heart centered also. Saw a few logs when nobody is around and watch everything very close. Read all you can get on circle mills. Find an experienced sawer to talk to. Their are many things it could be.

irvi00 · October 29, 2017, 06:55:35 PM

Kbeitz is right. First thing you need to check is the rpm you're spinning. And to be sure your saw is hammered for that rpm. The saw has to stand up and dish out properly to saw a straight line. Of course as previously stated the husk has to be in alignment with the track and carriage. I'm assuming it was cutting good then went awry?

irvi00 · October 29, 2017, 07:00:21 PM

Something else to think about is the bits. In oak we always had better luck with "stand all" bits over regulars. Sometimes called ice bits. Simonds brand was "stand all".

Gearbox · October 29, 2017, 07:15:34 PM

Are your saw guides set up right . The log side guide should be just touching the saw at rest . The off side should have about 1/16 inch of daylight . As the saw comes up to speed you should have equal gap . If the saw is hitting both guides your saw speed is probably slow . I have found saws hammered for 500 or 550 may not stand up till near 600 . Once you see a saw stand up you will know what I mean { no wobble at all ]

moodnacreek · October 29, 2017, 07:55:39 PM

Once I had a style 3 saw that would not saw hard wood without stand all bits. I got away from stand alls by going to frost style shanks but with regular shanks they can be required.