husqvarna - next chainsaw

ahlkey · January 15, 2009, 05:01:59 PM

I have a Husky 55 original that I have owned for many years and it continues to be a solid all around good saw. I also have a 570 with a 24" bar that I use when cutting larger trees but given it's output I find it heavy. I would perfer an all around husky saw with only an 18" bar and it seems the 372XP which is lighter with more output than the 570 makes sense. Would this be a good saw based on what I have already or should I move up to maybe the 385XP with a 24 inch blade and then put a smaller 18 inch blade on the 570? The trees that I cut annually are typically in the 15 to 25 inch range, all hardwood, and about 100 cords per year. Thanks

Maineloggerkid · January 15, 2009, 05:15:59 PM

I think the 372xp with a 20" bar and skip chains would be a great saw. That is how I had mine set up, and I loved it. I will be getting another as soon as my budget allows.

timber tramp · January 15, 2009, 06:27:17 PM

Why skip chain on a 20" bar? I run skip on my longer bars (28,32) but on a 20 I think it'd be sort of redundant. I'm over on the other coast though so maybe different wood species.

TT

Maineloggerkid · January 15, 2009, 06:45:45 PM

One time, I just tried it, and while it didn't make a big difference, it did improve cutting speed some, and it gave it a little more stump power. Again, nothing serious, but it helped a little and I liked the way it cut.

woodsrunner · January 16, 2009, 12:45:34 AM

I have a 372 that I really like. I normally keep an 18 inch bar on because it rides in the front basket of my 4 wheeler a lot. I also carry a 24 inch bar in the basket for big stuff. I have run it with the 20 inch bar a fair bit as well and with either of those (the 20 or the 18) it rips. I think you would be very happy with it. The 372 is considered a classic and many say it is Husky's best saw. I can't disagree with those sentiments.

ladylake · January 17, 2009, 06:15:52 AM

I have a 385xp that cuts good but is heavy 23# on a good scale full of gas and oil with a 22" bar and chain. Steve

1953greg · January 18, 2009, 02:47:21 PM

if you need a 24" bar continously then you wil need a 385xp. if a 20" is adequate then the 372xp is more than enough and with .5 more hp than your 570 wil handle the 24" when needed occasionally.

if funds are an issue first try a 20" on your 570. you wil b surprised how much lighter your saw seems.
if you are looking for a reason for a new saw then the 372xp is the way to go!!!!!!!!!!!!

either way let us know what you decide.

Maineloggerkid · January 18, 2009, 07:11:07 PM

I ran a 24" bar for a long time on my 372 with no problem.

buzzegray · January 18, 2009, 08:10:27 PM

I just got a 36" bar for my 385xp. I hope I like it

Bill

Meadows Miller · January 18, 2009, 08:46:05 PM

Gday ahikey

I find for swinging an 18" bar a 359 will do the job well ive had mine for 2 years now done about 400+ton and it hasent missed a beat they have the highest rpm & torqe band and the best power to weight ratio out of all the saws i looked at ;) ;D 8)
remember that you can drop anything upto 36" dia with an 18" bar or double the bar dia there aint no point lugging around anything bigger than you need ;) ;D

Reguards Chris

Dave Shepard · January 18, 2009, 11:55:55 PM

I guess that depends on how much wood you want to put on the ground, and how fast. ;D I could certainly put a lot of wood on the ground with my 66, but the 394 will do it a lot faster, and funner. ;)

ahlkey · January 19, 2009, 08:16:29 AM

Thanks for all the good advice. It seems like the 372XP or the larger 385XP would be a great choice. I agree an easy test would be to put a smaller blade on the 570 and see how it feels before deciding on the next model and bar length.

I will give it a try this week.

Cut4fun · January 19, 2009, 12:22:56 PM

They make a saws with the weight of the 372 and the power of the 385 390. Its called the Dolmar 7900 or Solo 681 and cheaper too. Now finding a good dealer local could be a task.

capt n cutz · January 19, 2009, 09:18:40 PM

saws and opinions, the endless list!
I can only share my opinion, production cutting hardwood.
Sooo,
I must start with the chain Full skip (I know of no other)
Then the bar length 20" (it's plenty long enuff) even with the pro dawgs.
now saws,
can't go wrong with a 372, well till you run one with the BB on it then you have to have that one.
385 ahhh well it's okay but when you get a 390 you will leave the 385 next to the urinal! if your considering weight stay away from the 385.
I would like to continue on with Stihl but we are considering weight, so skip that.
I have had my experience with a 570 also, it didn't last very long (I'll leave it at that) same goes for the 575 garbage I mean saw.
I do have to add as far as fuel consumption the 575 way out last the 372, 372 are pretty thirsty. I heard last week that Husky went out of their way to improve the new 576 and they even admitted some of the problems with the 575 (honest resource).
Of coarse the Dolmar 7900 is a vary tempty treat, I have had my hands on one (no production cutting with it though) I could care less for how the choke lever sticks out, other than that real similar to the 372, just way to hard (4 me) to get Dolmar saws and parts.

I am currently back and forth with my 460 and 390 and the 372 well 375 sits in the rig waiting, just seems like such a little toy when I break it out. Don't get me wrong it really rips!

Now I must end with this note, no matter if it's a tinker toy or a big hog the most important thing to make it cut is the chain and how it is filed, and some good fresh gas. Also if you are cutting up dirty material with a high rev saw you can fry the bearings! (seen it few times)
Best of luck.

Dave Shepard · January 19, 2009, 10:11:14 PM

Ms660 16.5 lbs
395XP 17.4 lbs

I don't know why you are eliminating Stihl based on weight. That's almost a pound less. ;)

mad murdock · January 20, 2009, 03:48:45 PM

I started with Mac, then Jonsereds, my most recent saw '06 purchase, is a 372XP with full wrap handle. I run a 28" bar with full chisel skip tooth chain, it cuts like mad in softwoods, and does a real good job in hardwood as well. I really like the 372XP. Baileys sells alot of replacement parts for it, even have a big bore cylinder kit for it if you want to beef it up. I have used it with my alaskan mill and it does a fair job of cutting boards with the ripping chain I bought for it.

SawTroll · January 24, 2009, 01:37:52 PM

Quote from: timber tramp on January 15, 2009, 06:27:17 PM
Why skip chain on a 20" bar? I run skip on my longer bars (28,32) but on a 20 I think it'd be sort of redundant. I'm over on the other coast though so maybe different wood species. TT

I see no reason to use skip with 20 or 24" bars...... :

capt n cutz · January 25, 2009, 11:13:32 AM

Quote from: SawTroll on January 24, 2009, 01:37:52 PM
Quote from: timber tramp on January 15, 2009, 06:27:17 PM
Why skip chain on a 20" bar? I run skip on my longer bars (28,32) but on a 20 I think it'd be sort of redundant. I'm over on the other coast though so maybe different wood species. TT

I see no reason to use skip with 20 or 24" bars...... :

Have you ever tried it? After years of running full skip, I see no reason for the full comp.

timber tramp · January 25, 2009, 11:38:14 AM

>>Have you ever tried it? After years of running full skip, I see no reason for the full comp.

Full comp is "smoother" when cutting small stuff. Not as grabby for limbing, pruning, brush clearing etc...

TT

Maineloggerkid · January 25, 2009, 12:24:58 PM

It is less grabby, for sure. I run full skip because it does seem to make a little difference, it files quicker because of less teeth, and at my local saw shop, the cost difference is almost nothing.

I have another saw or 2 for cutting little stuff.

capt n cutz · January 25, 2009, 04:29:54 PM

Suppose it's just a matter of what one likes or gets used to. I feel that the full skip is much smoother, verses the full comp being very grabby. and to put the file to em' the full skip is a breeze, the comp is like opening a sharks mouth.

must add that I could care less for the semi-skip stuff, can't pinpoint it, yet have tried enuff of it to know that I don't like it.

Dave Shepard · January 25, 2009, 05:00:40 PM

Most people feel that the full comp is smoother than the skip. I'm going to order up a full-skip for the long bar, and see what all the buzz is about.

capt n cutz · January 25, 2009, 05:09:38 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 25, 2009, 05:00:40 PM
Most people feel that the full comp is smoother than the skip. I'm going to order up a full-skip for the long bar, and see what all the buzz is about.

Keep us up to speed on what you think of it.

ahlkey · February 09, 2009, 10:11:01 AM

Bought a smaller 20" bar & chain for the 570 and it worked pretty good. It is surprising how just dropping from the 24" bar how lighter the saw appeared to me. In addition having the smaller length made it easier to move around but I still find the saw heavy after a long day in the woods. Will continue to give it a workout for the next couple of weeks to see if I can adjust to it's weight and feel, but right now I leaning toward a new 372XP given it is lighter than the 385XP.