Useful sawmill mods

Bandmill Bandit · March 28, 2016, 10:22:06 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on March 28, 2016, 09:59:58 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to have to look into the tiny tach. I don't see why a tach isn't standard! Or at least an option.

I actually ordered mine from Kohler at the suggestion of my local Kohler service guy. Think it cost me 30 ish bucks. I'll get pic of it in the morning and post it here.

I am going to do the volt meter and a amp meter as well.

Magicman · March 28, 2016, 10:23:39 PM

I agree, but I would know instantly by the engine sound if mine was off.

Bandmill Bandit · March 28, 2016, 10:26:39 PM

Quote from: Magicman on March 28, 2016, 10:23:39 PM
I agree, but I would know instantly by the engine sound if mine was off.

Yea MM I go by the sound too but of idle adjustments and the service tracking it is good to have. Also the accuracy does allow you to run closer to the margins I find.

Magicman · March 28, 2016, 10:35:23 PM

I have a manual tach that I hold to the output shaft to measure the rpm's for idle and run. The Lombardini has no exposed fuel lines so I do not see how a transducer tach could be installed. There would have to be a magnet, etc and pickup arrangement used on either the fan or output end.

Bandmill Bandit · March 28, 2016, 11:01:40 PM

MM I think they have one that is designed for that engine. not a 100 percent sure but if you interested it worth a check.

Heres a picture of my little guy.

Magicman · March 29, 2016, 08:47:14 AM

LINK to an older thread. When the fuel leaves the primer pump it goes inside the engine to the injector pump, fuel lines, and injectors. Nothing is exposed.

This seems to further indicate that a sending unit would have to be attached or a photo pickup be used. This would only be a "gee wizz" thing because I have never seen a change in the rpm's. I use an old military manual tach. for setting and adjusting the rpm's.

Dave Shepard · March 29, 2016, 09:03:24 AM

I don't see the need to check rpms during normal operation. If you are having problems, or have to make an adjustment, then a contact tach is sufficient. If you want the hour meter and have a gas engine, then it's just a bonus.

Bandmill Bandit · March 29, 2016, 10:38:33 AM

Yea Dave you are right. I like the other features it has more than the RPM reading but I do find my self watching it more as get to the blade change time.

Probably more because its there than because I need it. Its pretty sensitive and you can see rpm drops of 5 or 10 rpm from cut to cut and when your blade are dulling it counts.

I cant state unequivocally that the tach has drastically reduced blade breakage for me BUT I do know that it is a factor because as soon as I notice a 20 to 30 RPM change in average cut RPM I change blades.

I know my sharpening skills are much improved as well which also helps.

MM: Could you post a pic of the the method you use for hooking your short chain and hook to the side support arms to move logs. i have chain and hook made. now just need to see how you hook it up.
Thankyou

Magicman · March 29, 2016, 06:03:49 PM

I do not recall having another picture and it will be Friday before I saw again. As the above picture shows, when the side support is raised the log will be rolled toward the front of the sawmill. Move the end tong to the other end and raise the side supports. Now when the side supports are lowered the log will be pulled toward the back of the sawmill.

Care must be taken because one wrong move and you know where the log will be.

ozarkgem · March 29, 2016, 06:26:46 PM

Quote from: Magicman on March 29, 2016, 06:03:49 PM

I do not recall having another picture and it will be Friday before I saw again. As the above picture shows, when the side support is raised the log will be rolled toward the front of the sawmill. Move the end tong to the other end and raise the side supports. Now when the side supports are lowered the log will be pulled toward the back of the sawmill.

Care must be taken because one wrong move and you know where the log will be.

good idea. How do you like the Lombardini engine? How many hrs do you have on it?

Magicman · March 29, 2016, 07:32:58 PM

I turned 700 hours last week so it is a few over now. The other option that I had was $3K more so I opted for this one. I probably would do the same thing now. This engine is OK, but there is a noticeable difference between it and the old turbo engine. I can load this one down but I never ever loaded the old turbo down.

Bandmill Bandit · March 29, 2016, 08:18:17 PM

yes MM I can see how that works and i can understand how you can drop if off the wrong side.

What I am wondering is how you attach the chain to the side support?

Don't need to know today. I just started the annual in the shop maintenance session and will do any minor mods while it in the shop.

Material handling on out feed is the upgrade project for this year.

Magicman · March 29, 2016, 09:46:32 PM

It's not actually attached. Just looped around and hooked tight.

ScottCC · April 12, 2016, 08:34:35 PM

I have contacted woodmizer for metal mizer parts that I hope will rotate the blade on a wm lt15 wide 90deg. Why? So that I can convert the band mill to a band mill cut off saw. WM has the best platform in the mp100 lt15 wide tracks. Can't wait to put together to have serious value added cabin logs for spec houses.

4x4American · April 12, 2016, 08:37:16 PM

That sounds neat, I hope you keep us updated with pictures!

Ljohnsaw · April 12, 2016, 08:39:20 PM

Quote from: ScottCC on April 12, 2016, 08:34:35 PM
I have contacted woodmizer for metal mizer parts that I hope will rotate the blade on a wm lt15 wide 90deg. Why? So that I can convert the band mill to a band mill cut off saw. WM has the best platform in the mp100 lt15 wide tracks. Can't wait to put together to have serious value added cabin logs for spec houses.

How wide and heavy of a blade will you be using? Twisting it 90° will put a lot of stress on it.

Can't you do just 45° like a metal band saw does? The head is at 45° and the 45° blade twist and gets you to 90°. Or are you planning on just leaving the head alone and using the normal up/down function to make the cuts?

Magicman · April 12, 2016, 08:41:08 PM

This will be interesting.

:P

4x4American · April 12, 2016, 08:54:17 PM

So if I'm following correctly, you're gonna be crosscutting to square up cabin logs to spec?

ozarkgem · April 13, 2016, 08:09:15 AM

I would think a Beam saw or a Beam cutter attachment for your Skilsaw would be faster.
Just my thinking.

Kbeitz · April 13, 2016, 08:11:51 AM

Or a Electreic chain saw with a lond blade mounted on the side of your mill.

http://morganchopsaw.com/electric-chain-bar-cut-off-saw/

Bandmill Bandit · April 19, 2016, 09:21:10 AM

Made hook to connect the MM chain to when I need to adjust a log on the mill.

Chuck White · April 19, 2016, 09:27:33 AM

Looks good, Bandit, just have to be careful not to overdo it and break something!

Magicman · April 19, 2016, 09:31:46 AM

Hey, that is a good idea.

Bandmill Bandit · April 19, 2016, 09:51:25 AM

Quote from: Chuck White on April 19, 2016, 09:27:33 AM
Looks good, Bandit, just have to be careful not to overdo it and break something!

Thanks Smiley

I used a 3/8ths mild steel eye bolt that is not welded closed so it will give.

I picked up 2 and tried the first 1 to see how hard it would pull before it bends.

If something catches it will bend open.

Also I drilled the little hole just below the roller out to 5/16 and threaded it to 3/8 NC so that eye bolt screws right into the side support and that is a 3/8ths beaner that I use to hook the chain to.