Useful sawmill mods

SawDust_Studios · October 23, 2005, 07:03:22 PM

Well, that just ain't fair. >:( I thought that was the way they all where sans the lt70. I want a button and a chain. Looks like I'm going to be another sawmill mod. :P It would save the time it takes to stop, lift the dragback and put the pin in place.

Quote from: DR_Buck on October 18, 2005, 10:51:39 PM
The retro fits are manual. No motor :-[ No switch :-[ Just a pin to hold it up.

Stump Jumper · October 23, 2005, 07:32:15 PM

Here is a modification that I made to get in and out of my tight pole barn. I know I should just build a bigger pole barn.

She rolls around nice on a clean floor.

DanG · October 23, 2005, 09:03:34 PM

By Jiminy Cricket, that's a fine idea, Jeff! 8) 8) I LIKE it!

stumpy · October 25, 2005, 07:04:28 PM

Stump Jumper
How do you raise the mill to put them on?

Stump Jumper · October 25, 2005, 07:22:33 PM

stumpy

My Wood-Mizer has outriggers which are also jacks I place the wheels on the pair in front of the axle first. I then raise the saw head and roll it back this would be toward the front of the machine once I get past the 2 jacks with wheels on them the back end becomes light I can then put the wheels on the pair behind the axle and jack them up. Put the saw head back in its park position and one person can roll this thing around easily.

logwalker · November 10, 2005, 05:48:24 PM

Heres a thought for a usefull modification for any bandmill. Install a bicycle computor on the idle band wheel to check for blade speed and belt slippage or engine slowdown. The computors are adjustable enough to mount it well in on the wheel spoke or hub for protection and still give an accurate rpm in miles per hour. Mount head at eye level for instant readout. About 60 mph oughta get er' done. Any thoughts? Joe

Bibbyman · November 10, 2005, 06:18:23 PM

Logwalker, that's just what I was thinking about - some kind of tachometer on the idle wheel to see just how fast the blade is moving. Engine speed is not enough - the main drive belt could be slippin' or maybe the blade may be slippin' on the drive wheel. But I don't think there is any way the idle wheel would read anything but what the blade is moving.

On the more model Wood-Mizers, the axle on the idle wheel don't stick out. How would you attach a mechanical tach to read the RPMS (or MPH)?

logwalker · November 10, 2005, 09:15:21 PM

Well Bibbyman,
I havn't played with one in a while but they are pretty simple to mount. I do have one on the rear wheel of my road bike and it never gives me any trouble. The heads are waterproof. They have a hard-wired (or wireless too) pickup that you zip-tie within a couple of millimeters of the hub or spoke near the hub. then you put the magnet on the wheel it self in line rotationally with the pickup. Some are more sensitive than others. They are pretty neat little computors in that they have lots of functions like a clock, elapsed timers, resetable odometers(2), and other possibly useful functions. Any bike shop sells them and I think Walmart does also. I don't know about the placement but will look tomorrow. Cost is maybe $20 to 50. LW :-\

Octoman · November 11, 2005, 01:40:09 AM

The bike computer is a very smart idea, top marks! I have one on my road bike too, its an excellent piece of kit. After fitting the sensor though you have to input the circumference of your own particular wheel. For example my wheel is 2096mm. From then on the computer just keeps score of the revolutions for distance, and works out speed from that. Keep this in mind if you decide to proceed with this plan as the idle band wheel diameter or circumference will be less than the average wheel, probably more childrens bike size. So go to the bike shop with your desired circumfernce in mind and get the corresponding computer.
IF.....you wanted to spend just a little more money! You can get a computer that measures your own heart rate at the same time. They normally measure max HR, av. HR etc. Wouldn't it be interesting to know whats going on inside when you just miss the dog or clamp by a few mm!! ??? ??? :D

edsaws · November 13, 2005, 05:55:20 PM

added gearmotor to lower and raise the head

Radar67 · November 13, 2005, 07:24:48 PM

Hey Ed,
Can you go into a little more detail about the parts you used and how everything is set up? Maybe some pictures from different angles. This looks like it would be an easy mod.

Stew

Plowboy · November 13, 2005, 08:28:25 PM

I wanted to add roller toe boards to my Woodmizer. I have a aftermarket hyd pump that does not have enough valves to add hyd roller toe boards so I came with this. I purchased the rollers from Woodmizer and the rachet binders from Nothern tool.

This is the rear roller toe board.

This the front roller.

Here is the rachet binder that I modified, when I upgrade my hyd. I think I can find a hyd cylinder that will fit into the brackets that I made.

This is my current pump and valves, so far this setup works but I want to upgrade to a Woodmizer setup someday.

edsaws · November 13, 2005, 09:17:15 PM

Quote from: Radar67 on November 13, 2005, 07:24:48 PM
Hey Ed,
Can you go into a little more detail about the parts you used and how everything is set up? Maybe some pictures from different angles. This looks like it would be an easy mod.

Stew

Well Stew basiclly its a couple of pillow blocks with a axle or rod with a sprocket that runs across the top of my mill that attach to the gearmotor. I got the gearmotor off ebay. I believe it came off one of them scooter chairs. The motor is pretty beefy. Then I drilled a couple of holes thru axle rod to attach the cables. The cables go around a couple of garage door pulleys. One on each side. Then back up and atached to some eye bolts. You can adjust the eyebolts a little to adjust the height from side to side. Heres some more pics.

the gearmotor

one of the pulleys

Cable gets rapped around the axle. The eyebolt is towards the bottom left.

Looking from the front nat a very good shot.

Minnesota_boy · November 14, 2005, 07:10:34 AM

Quote from: Plowboy on November 13, 2005, 08:28:25 PM
I wanted to add roller toe boards to my Woodmizer. I have a aftermarket hyd pump that does not have enough valves to add hyd roller toe boards so I came with this. I purchased the rollers from Woodmizer and the rachet binders from Nothern tool.

When you get ready to add the hydraulic cylinders, you could use a diverter valve in front of the main valve bank to supply hydraulic to the valves for the toe boards. You don't often need power to any other hydraulics while you are operating the toe boards.

Frank_Pender · November 14, 2005, 09:57:00 AM

For me one this thread, I go back to what DanG said on page 4: "#1" 8)

The only modification I made was getting Sawmill John to help me design the adaptive device to the bottom edger blade so that I could attatch a Lucas slabbing device to one of my Mobile Dimension mills. 8) 8) 8)

There was also the building of the outer track upon which the outer part of the sabbing saw had to ride. ;D

raycon · November 14, 2005, 10:55:52 AM

Plow boy what year is your woodmizer?

Plowboy · November 14, 2005, 06:29:53 PM

My woodmizer is a 1991. Minnestoa Boy thanks for the idea I may try and do that yet.

PawNature · November 20, 2005, 03:34:00 PM

Don't know how useful this will be to someone else but to me its handier that pockets on a shirt.
I took a full size load lock ( for those that know what a load lock is) and cut it down to use as a log dog on my Lumbermate. Still got a little tweeking to do but very useful as is.

woodbowl · December 25, 2005, 01:45:41 AM

Well I've searched the forum over in hopes of finding someone that has successfully mounted the highest HP motor on their WM LT40. I am on my 4th motor now and will wear this one out very soon. My first was a Briggs, then a 24-Onan, now on my 2nd 25-Kohler. I am concerned about the weight as well but I really need that extra HP. Help

Bibbyman · December 25, 2005, 05:12:14 AM

I'd get on the phone with WM customer service. They've got kits made up for engine swaps. They have a list of engine replacement kits (engines included) on their web site. But this is a list for just replacing the old engine with a new one of similar size.

Wood-Mizer replacement engines

They can also advise you if your mill can be SUPER SIZED with a larger engine. Even if you get an engine from another source, they can most likely provide shields, belts, linkage cables, etc.

Minnesota_boy · December 25, 2005, 07:43:18 AM

Quote from: woodbowl on December 25, 2005, 01:45:41 AM
Well I've searched the forum over in hopes of finding someone that has successfully mounted the highest HP motor on their WM LT40. I am on my 4th motor now and will wear this one out very soon. My first was a Briggs, then a 24-Onan, now on my 2nd 25-Kohler. I am concerned about the weight as well but I really need that extra HP. Help

I'm wondering how you wore out that many engines. I'm on my second and I'd still be on my first if I hadn't had a situation where it cost more to make a timely fix than to replace the engine. I've switched to fully synthetic oil in my Onan and really like it. I run twice as long between oil changes and the engine seems to be doing just fine.

woodbowl · December 25, 2005, 11:37:29 AM

Quote from: Minnesota_boy on December 25, 2005, 07:43:18 AM
I'm wondering how you wore out that many engines.

After 10 or 11 years of sawing and after 2 million BF behind me, it kinda' wears on everything. I've also replaced every moving part on my LT40 several times over and upgraded several things also. The rigid frame is the only thing not replaced, however I've welded things all over it, you can see it in my gallery. Since I will need a new motor soon, it makes since to get as much power as possible without over stressing the headrig, chain ect. I need to stay safe and within weight limits. So ............ who's got a big hoss motor on their little LT40? 8)

Bibbyman · December 25, 2005, 12:37:51 PM

Sounds like that old LT40 has paid for itself a couple of times over and ... a new one.

Don't you think a new LT40 Super or LT70 would be just the fix?

woodbowl · December 25, 2005, 12:53:14 PM

Quote from: Bibbyman on December 25, 2005, 12:37:51 PM
Sounds like that old LT40 has paid for itself a couple of times over and ... a new one.

Don't you think a new LT40 Super or LT70 would be just the fix?

It would indeed Bibbyman! ........ Problem is, I'm fresh out of $46,000 thousands. I've been eyeballing that LT70 pretty hard. I can make things work if the headrig will take it. It may look like a chinese laundry going down the road, but if it's making me money that's the bottem line. OH ......... MERRY CHRISTMAS ........... We're all heading to Grandma's house now tear into some more presents. :D :D

Woodwalker · December 25, 2005, 11:47:01 PM

OK folks, this one isn't orange. I purchased this manual mill second-hand a couple of weeks ago. Figured out some improvements would save me a lot of work. Due to the existing roller chain set-up to raise/lower the head, it wasn't hard to add the gear motor.