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Powered axe & chisel sharpening tool suggestions

Started by esarratt, May 07, 2021, 07:56:11 PM

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esarratt

What is your favorite powered axe and chisel sharpening tool?



Edvantage

I retreived a 14" dia. x wide 2" electric powered Whetstone someone had thrown in the trash.  It works great on axes drawknifes and chisels. It's all cast iron heavy duty. I've used a 4 1/2" angle grinder on cheap axes. Would never use it on a good ax. As a kid I was obsessed with sharpening my dad's old boy scout hatchet with a file. It's now an inch shorter than it should be. 

esarratt

Quote from: Edvantage on May 07, 2021, 08:13:54 PM
I retreived a 14" dia. x wide 2" electric powered Whetstone someone had thrown in the trash.
Unbelievable isn't it.  I have an old 1950's army stove that was the saved from the dump by an enterprising garbage collector.  He then sold it to me.  I am happy.

Thank you for the information.  I am looking at wet stones now.

DonW

https://archive.org/details/P2140411_201802wetgrinding

I never did de-carbonize an edge, only grinding with water, and don't know what that's like but think it's common.
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

Mad Professor

Only tools you need on an axe are a file and stone.  If it need more than those it's been badly abused.

I won't get into chisels and powered tools......

mike_belben

Praise The Lord

cib

What width chisel? Works harp makes a good tool but it doesn't do well with timber chisels due to length and width. Regular wood chisels it is outstanding.

Tormak and it's knockoffs are good for sharpening a lot of things but it isn't cheap. Timber slicks are pain to sharpen due to the length of them. For axes I'm a fan of a belt sander but I have a 2x72 I made for knife making.

Brad_bb

I keep my axe sharp with a stone puck moving it in a circular motion.  Go over it every time you use it.  It's the same way with chef's knives.  You use the sharpening steel regularly to keep the edge.

For chisels I use the sandpaper method on glass or on a granite 12x12 tile.  It's more portable and you're not worried about breaking stones.  

The only time I use something powered is a flap sanding wheel when I first get a tool to get it tuned up (if it needs it), or on a chisel that you have chipped the edge on.  From then on you can maintain them without powered tools.
Chisel Sharpening-sand paper method - Rumble
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

DonW

For keeping a good edge sharp most of these hand methods will suffice but on a regular basis, after much interim honing, puck, bench stone and yes I even knew a very competent carpenter who preferred files, whatever, but things do need to be reestablished and refreshed regularly. Inevitably the imprecision of these free-hand methods alters the geometry, profile , (see the ubiquitous rounded toe for example), bevel angle and so on and so on. The first honing session after a good reset will make it obvious, that is unless your chosen power tool is an angle grinder or something like it. 
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

kantuckid

I use a HF air die grinder with an appropriate grit & 3" sander disc on an axe. Files are OK too. Chisels i use a stone if reall dull and a piece of abrasive paper laying on a cast iron tool table if a touchup. 
Mostly I avoid axe work when I can. I see many modern day Paul Bunyan wannabe's in campgrounds these days. They apparently get off on chopping stuff? I'd rather hike, fish, ride my mtn bike or sit and talk. 
One guy I see in a TN NF CG has several axes he takes with him as it's his seeming hobby activity. I do use one mostly for de-barking certain logs in areas a wire brush doesn't clean up well when band milling. When I did burn wood for all our heat I used a wood splitting maul w/fiberglass handle, no axe ever.  

 Call it abuse but sometimes an axe hits "stuff" not called wood. ;D
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Don P

Except for the broadaxe the few axes I have are for rocks and roots. For chisels I establish a hollow grind with a bench grinder, white stone and a light touch. Then a diamond stone riding on the tip and heel across the hollow makes it easy to keep a flat angle and faster to tune up with less material in contact. I keep a emery charged felt on the other side of the grinder for stropping.

Many people think a bench grinder is inappropriate for sharpening with. It is really just another developed skill. I spent many hours making custom molder knives with nothing more than a bench grinder in a small shop. Just work slow and cool.

kantuckid

I bought one of the Wolverine sharpening jigs and the post above reminded me that I've never got around to re-doing the base on my Rikon grinder. I got a real deal on the grinder from Rockler (like $55) when they ran a special couple years back. Wrong time of year for gouges & chisels... :D 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

DonW

I am hollow grinding also chisels and plane irons, (this lasts about five sharpenings at bench stones before the hollow is ground out and it's back to the grinding wheel), but in unspeakable ways :-X
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

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