Ford 540 vs 445... Now 545 D

[Ljohnsaw]

No skid plates or any forestry protection.  I plan to add were I can.  They put some of the corrugated covers (like wire rap/wire loom) on some hydraulic lines and a little electrical tape.  A little hokey but helps.  I need to buy some of that spiral wrap on line - kind of expensive at the hydraulic shop.  Looking in the service manual, there was mention of a guard on the drive line going to the front.  There is nothing on mine - I figured something was missing - just so exposed and waiting to wrap up something along the trail!

[Ljohnsaw]

I did a quick search on "545D" and found lots of hits on the Forum.  So this is a question to all the 545, 445 and other related owners.  My N2M (new to me) 545 is up on the property now.  Looking through my Owner's and Service manual, all I can find on the instrument panel lights is they are 12v - nothing about the style or size.  Do any of you know?  I think the torque lockout light needs to be replaced as well as the other warning lights - nothing lights up when I turn the key on.  Might be a bad ground but I want to go up prepared to replace if necessary while I have it taken apart.

[newoodguy78]

I currently have our 445 completely disassembled I'll take a look at the bulbs and report back tomorrow 

[GRANITEstateMP]

I don't ever remember the dash lights working on any of the 3, 445D's we've had. Or maybe better put, by the time we get them, they don't work, and that's fine cause the rest of the tractor does

[Andries]

All of the dash lights work on my machine. But, the tach doesn't work well, it's jumpy and doesn't tell me anything that I wouldn't know by the sound of the motor.
So, I'm of no help re the bulb types 'cause the tach cable work is just going to have to wait.

[newoodguy78]

 

 T1895 that's the head of a 1/4 bolt for scale 

[Ljohnsaw]

Thanks.  I went up today to get some items taken care of on the tractor and didn't even think of pulling the instrument panel.

The plan was to fix the 4wd drive line, adjust the brakes, get the right antifreeze mix in and winterize my bath house.  It was 25° when I got up there at 8:30.  A little Styrofoam snow flakes in the shadows from Sunday's little storm.

First order of business was to clean the battery terminals.  No picture but a real cluster...  Spent over an hour on that.  Got it started and moved to level ground were I could work on the drive line  - (edit )  Cleaned up the splines (caked in mud), slid the coupler and inserted a bolt.  Now just need to find some mud to slip and slide in to see if it is working.  I dumped out the radiator fluid and refiled with 1 gallon of concentrate and 1 gallon of 50/50.  Now good to -10°.  Rarely gets to zero up there.

Then I moved it again to where I could get the SkyTrak in to jack it up to adjust the brakes.


 
The right side only had a minor amount of adjustment available (it sort of worked).  The left side had a bit more adjustment (it didn't work).  Now I can stop fairly quickly.  I spent a hour or so getting rid of my slabs - drove them over to my neighbor.


 

   They should be all set for the winter now.  Then I was doing some minor clean up / winterize the bath house and called it a day.  Got up to 43°

[beenthere]

Good to hear you could put it to work for you so quickly. Ya gotta winner there, fer sure.  8)

No fix on the 4wd, I gather.

[Ljohnsaw]

I didn't expound on that - I went back and edited my post.  Just need to find a slippery place to test it.

[Ljohnsaw]

So to address the numbered items:
1) front tire - only has 15 pounds in it, rated at 75 so next time I need to run the compressor and see if it holds air.
2) Drive line hooked back up but need to test.
3) Gannon rams rebuild.  I took the one kit they gave me back to the store and bought 2 more at $35/each.
4) Rear diff - still need to see what's up but looks like a couple loose bolts
5) Left (new) steer hoses - zip tied it up for now.
6) Right steer hoses - zip tied up for now.
7) Front diff leak - loose drain plug but oil is a little milky.  Will drain and refill.
8 ) Bucket lip - later...
9) Battery - got it hooked up better but I will solder on lugs to the battery cables for a permanent fix.
10) Coolant - drained and refiled.  Need to check it again since I ran it so much, should be thoroughly mixed now.

Stopped at O'Riley's auto parts for the bulbs.  They want $5.99 for two!  Online I think I saw 8 for $10 but have to wait for it to be delivered to the store.  Also got 5 gallons of 134 oil for everything but the engine.

[Andries]

Sounds like you're going after it, good work.
Couple things things;
- The 134 oil you have should be marked as suitable for wet brakes. If not, some chatter and noise will let you know that the oil isn't the right formula. 
- I've checked for four wheel drive action by lifting the front of the loader on the heel of the bucket, then driving forward with the 4wd engaged. The front tires will rotate while they're up in the air as you move forward. Not a complicated check, but proof positive, and no slippery slope needed.  :D
- Be sure to check the front tire final drives for oil level. They each take about 1 litre of the hydraulic oil used everywhere else on the machine. The level is marked on the wheel hub.
- when you're on steep slopes, low range and 4 wheel drive engaged is your friend. Engine braking is smooth and super strong. I realize you're in California, but that'll prevent toboggan slides in a big way. 

[Ljohnsaw]

On the oil, the manual says to use 134 C or D.  The bucket says it is compatible with 134 A, B and C.  So, we'll see how it goes.  I had the front end lifted up (on the bucket) when I was sliding the coupling back into place.  I could turn one wheel and the drive line would spin so the gears are there.  Just want to make sure they are quiet/not ground up.  I did notice if I'm in a low gear that it will slow my decent down a steep section of my drive quite well.  When I get back up there to do the front diff, I will be checking all the levels in every nook and cranny and shoot all the zerks while I'm at it.

I don't have any manual for how the chains should be installed on the 3pt but do see rigid supports in the Accessories section.  They show connecting to this:


 
Is that what you were talking about?  My Gannon box has three tabs on each side to connect the lower 3pt arms.  Right now, they are between the inner set and it looks pinched.  I'm going to move them out when I change the chains to the outside.

[newoodguy78]

Yes those are the attachment points for the stabilizer bars, you're only missing the bolt on stud. Ours has bars that go from there to the tip of the 3ph arms. There's a left and a right, shaped like a hockey stick with 2 holes in one end and one in the end that attaches to the tractor.
When you're greasing there's 4 zerks on the coupler between the crank and hydraulic pump under the radiator,not the handiest place to get at.
FWIW I've talked to several older ford mechanics all of them recommended using coolant system treatment in the antifreeze. Apparently this generation engines are known for having potentially porous blocks and are an unsleeved engine. The treatment is supposed to stop issues that create problems.
I use Napa Kool part number 4058

[Ljohnsaw]

10) Coolant - I added some NAPA Kool to the radiator.
9) Battery - Soldered on some heavy lugs to the battery wire and now snugly attached to the battery.  The "Thermostat" pre-heater works pretty well.  Took two tries at 30°F this morning.  You hold the switch on for 15 seconds then, still holding, crank the engine for no more than 30 seconds.
3) Gannon rams - Really need to rebuild the two on the arms.  The left side does not hold - a real PITA.  Hoping its the ram and not the valve.
2) 4wd -  Definitely works.  Made good use of it scraping the snow from my driveway today.
1) Front left tire - flat and off the rim this morning.  Had to ratchet strap it and run up the air to 75 psi.  At the end of the day, the front tires had ~70 on the left and ~73 on the right.  I'll check it next time I go up and pull the left one if it needs to go to the shop for repair.  I don't see anything in the tread.

Before:


 
After:



Edit:
I picked up a box of 10 dash bulbs for $10.99 at O'Rielys auto parts store (order online).  Didn't have time to pull the dash today.

One other issue - the PTO runs all the time.  I change the lever but does not stop.  What should I look for?

[thecfarm]

I would put tubes in the tires.  ;)  

[Andries]

You had mentioned an issue with the 4wd. drive shaft. This pic shows the skid plate on mine, from front diff looking back.
 
Newwoodguy78 wrote about the 3pt. hook up to the box blade. It's tough to describe so I took a pic.
 
You can see the pto has a screw-on cover, just below the lift up shield. Check the linkages from the lever on the left side seat to the actuator arm in front of the diff. A pin may have come off, disconnecting the linkages.

[Ljohnsaw]

Yeah, I'm definitely in need of the 4wd shaft cover!  That may be a tough one to find.  Probably have to make something.  I need to check the linkage but didn't want to crawl around in the mud.  I saw the 3pt side supports online.  I have some metal and might make up my own but I forgot to measure.

[newoodguy78]

I like those stabilizer bars , different than ours much better design.
As was said I d definitely check the linkages first. I'd have to check the book to see how that one works. Possible the brake band is out of adjustment or broken.
I had that problem on our 6600 Ford was a broken band, that's a split it in two job to fix.

[Andries]

That style of stabilizer is nice 'cause they can be adjusted for a left or right offset.
Road crown with a land plane is dead simple when you can set tilt with the arm adjuster (black knob on the right arm) and offset with the stabilizers to reach over to beyond the rear tire. 
But then I've got a few miles of old gravel road to dress up a few times per year. That chore will make a guy fussy about what's dragging on the ground behind him . . . . 😆

[chevytaHOE5674]

Does the PTO spin with power all the time of when in the off position can you stop it with a 2x4 or something? Could be a bad brake, or warped clutch disc's and friction plates. 

[Ljohnsaw]

Seems to have power all the time.  I just used my hand at low idle - it is engaged.  Next time up the hill, I'll look at the linkage.  Problem is the 7 day forecast is calling for SNOW.

[newoodguy78]

Does the PTO spin with power all the time of when in the off position can you stop it with a 2x4 or something? Could be a bad brake, or warped clutch disc's and friction plates.

Do you know if that brake can be adjusted externally or is that an inside job ?:D
Not to tell you your business @ljohnsaw but please don't make a habit of grabbing those pto shafts with your hands they have no conscience at at all. Like Chevy said wedge a 2x or a stick off the drawbar against it.
Not sure if the 545 is the same as our 445 but there is no linkage on ours it goes directly into the rearend on a splined shaft. Curious what you find in case ours ever has a problem 

[chevytaHOE5674]

There is no brake adjustment and don't think any linkage to adjust. The handle goes directly into the valve inside the transmission if its like its Ag counterparts.

The brake is kind of a turd of a design. If the clutches are warped at all the brake has no chance of holding anything. Heck even cold oil can cause enough drag to overcome the brake. If it spins but can be stopped with a wedged block of wood then suspect a brake issue. If it spins with power and can't be stopped then its usually a clutch issue. Servicing requires a split between trans and rear axle.

On the large frame fords (9700, TW, 30 series, etc) there is an updated PTO clutch pack to give more holding power and longer life. Unsure if the same is out there for the small frame machines.

I usually don't tear into them unless the PTO doesn't stop with something heavy like a brush hog hooked to it.

[newoodguy78]

Gotcha was looking at ours and the only thing I could see to adjust it was possibly take the handle off and rotate it on th splined shaft to apply more pressure to the band.
Never messed with the bigger Fords but had the 6600 apart to fix the pto issues one of which was it wouldn't stop. Wasn't exactly what I'd call a rugged setup. It's worked well ever since but try to keep it on lighter pto duty. 

[chevytaHOE5674]

The 545D doesn't use a band like some of the smaller ford AG tractors. It uses a spring applied, hydraulic released little brake arm. The braking surface is fairly small and zero adjusments.

With the tractor not running can you spin the PTO shaft? If you can then I'd suspect the brake has failed. If doesn't turn then id suspect clutches.

Hook something big and heavy to the PTO and see if that stops it.