iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Hudson Oscar 330 Pro

Started by etd66ss, March 04, 2022, 08:21:55 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

thecfarm

I know you are looking at a temporary location.
But I put down at least a foot of gravel and put the mill on top of that. That mill has not moved since I put it there more than 10 years ago.
I put down those round cement pads,4 inches thick.
I have a 500 foot driveway that got the foot deep treatment too.;)
Get rid of the water, then there is nothing to expand and cause those frost heaves.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

etd66ss

Quote from: thecfarm on March 09, 2022, 07:23:50 AM
I know you are looking at a temporary location.
But I put down at least a foot of gravel and put the mill on top of that. That mill has not moved since I put it there more than 10 years ago.
I put down those round cement pads,4 inches thick.
I have a 500 foot driveway that got the foot deep treatment too.;)
Get rid of the water, then there is nothing to expand and cause those frost heaves.
Yeah, the water table in my area is very high, and I only have about 24 inches of slope to the entirety of my 60+ acres.  It is very difficult to drain "perfectly" flat land. My property was once a lake bed after the last ice age, it's just super flat. If I dig a hole in the springtime I hit water within 6-12". But then mid summer the water table could be 60" down...

When the frost is gone and the stone driveway is still malleable, I plan to use my land plane too try and level off a spot on the driveway and setup the tracks there. It's the quickest and easiest way I think.  

47sawdust

How do people keep their basements dry or is everything on frost walls and slabs.
I see now what you are up against. Makes a mill on a trailer a good idea.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

etd66ss

Quote from: 47sawdust on March 09, 2022, 10:51:58 AM
How do people keep their basements dry or is everything on frost walls and slabs.
I see now what you are up against. Makes a mill on a trailer a good idea.
Nope, generally full basements. Just make sure your sump pump doesn't stop!

etd66ss

Lot of holes to auger with my tractor...



 


 

Crusarius

unless you can fit a 36" diameter log on end on your mill there is no considerable POINT load. There is no reason to have that many supports. the most I would do is 4 per side. Then span them with a continuous beam. You could easily get away with 3 per side holding the end supports in 24-36". The cantilever will not effect any of the cutting you could do.

etd66ss

Quote from: Crusarius on March 10, 2022, 07:00:12 PM
unless you can fit a 36" diameter log on end on your mill there is no considerable POINT load. There is no reason to have that many supports. the most I would do is 4 per side. Then span them with a continuous beam. You could easily get away with 3 per side holding the end supports in 24-36". The cantilever will not effect any of the cutting you could do.
Unfortunately I don't have long enough utility poles to have a continuous beam. 

fluidpowerpro

Quote from: Crusarius on March 10, 2022, 07:00:12 PM
unless you can fit a 36" diameter log on end on your mill there is no considerable POINT load. There is no reason to have that many supports. the most I would do is 4 per side. Then span them with a continuous beam. You could easily get away with 3 per side holding the end supports in 24-36". The cantilever will not effect any of the cutting you could do.
I agree, 4 is plenty. The key is that you want a strong beam running full length like you show. The beam is what will prevent the track from flexing.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

fluidpowerpro

Quote from: etd66ss on March 10, 2022, 07:07:23 PM
Quote from: Crusarius on March 10, 2022, 07:00:12 PM
unless you can fit a 36" diameter log on end on your mill there is no considerable POINT load. There is no reason to have that many supports. the most I would do is 4 per side. Then span them with a continuous beam. You could easily get away with 3 per side holding the end supports in 24-36". The cantilever will not effect any of the cutting you could do.
Unfortunately I don't have long enough utility poles to have a continuous beam.
You should be able to splice them with boards on each side and some lag screws. Stagger the splices so they are at different locations, side to side.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

etd66ss

Maybe something like this:



 

I could make continuous beams on my brothers swing mill. However, what species would be best? I have a Cottonwood tree that I plan to fell soon. These beams would be above grade about 18".

The side beams shown are 6X8. I have 3X8 joists under the angle bunks. I would use heavy brackets and bolts to tie all the beams together then lag the angle track to the top of the bed.


fluidpowerpro

I think what you have shown will be plenty strong.
I am not qualified to comment on if cottonwood is suitable for the beams but I'm sure others here can. I would use your utility poles like you planned and splice. You could also locate the splices centered on a post, so that would eliminate any chance of a weak spot.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Crusarius

place a post in the center and 1 post in 36" in from each end. Then set the support beams on the posts butting together in the center over the top of the post. Done deal.

I am not sure how big your carriage is but I am sure it is more than 24" of track you will lose because of the size. so worst case scenario you have 12" cantilever over the final support post. You will never notice any deflection from that small amount of cantilever.

I am all for over engineering but for a temporary setup I think you should step back and try to KISS method :)

etd66ss

Quote from: Crusarius on March 10, 2022, 09:23:40 PM
place a post in the center and 1 post in 36" in from each end. Then set the support beams on the posts butting together in the center over the top of the post. Done deal.

I am not sure how big your carriage is but I am sure it is more than 24" of track you will lose because of the size. so worst case scenario you have 12" cantilever over the final support post. You will never notice any deflection from that small amount of cantilever.

I am all for over engineering but for a temporary setup I think you should step back and try to KISS method :)
This is a design for my permanent bed. I just have to figure out where I want to place it so it doesn't interfere with my future site layout plans.

One thing I forgot is, I want to add an extension for the mill head to be driven into a shed to keep it out of the weather. For this I think I can just lag some angle into the wooden beams. When it's driving on that portion of the track it won't be doing any milling.

DaleK

Make up a full extension and bolt it to the existing one, there isn't a lot of weight on the carriage and the wheels will jump as they travel across the joint between sections if it isn't lined up perfect. Just unbolt one section and flip it over then use it as a jig and clamp your new lengths of angle to it and weld them, takes less than an hour
Hud-Son Oscar 330
Wallenstein FX110
Echo chainsaws and a whole bunch of tractors

etd66ss

Quote from: DaleK on March 11, 2022, 01:09:36 PM
Make up a full extension and bolt it to the existing one, there isn't a lot of weight on the carriage and the wheels will jump as they travel across the joint between sections if it isn't lined up perfect. Just unbolt one section and flip it over then use it as a jig and clamp your new lengths of angle to it and weld them, takes less than an hour
So any 3X3X1/4 angle I buy will have the same exact profile as the the angle on the track? Did you buy A36 angle or something specific?

I notice the angle on these tracks have a full bull nose profile to them on the ends of the legs. Not sure if Hudson massages them or not. I know that Woodland Mills for example, machines the top legs of their angle frame flat etc.

fluidpowerpro

Quote from: etd66ss on March 11, 2022, 07:06:03 AM

This is a design for my permanent bed. I just have to figure out where I want to place it so it doesn't interfere with my future site layout plans.

One thing I forgot is, I want to add an extension for the mill head to be driven into a shed to keep it out of the weather. For this I think I can just lag some angle into the wooden beams. When it's driving on that portion of the track it won't be doing any milling.
The shed is an excellent idea. After a few years of owning it I did the same with my small Hudson Oscar 18 and I wish I would have done it right away.
It makes it so much more convenient to fire up the saw to cut just one log. Just open a door and roll the saw out....
Hudson angle is the same as any any structural angle you would buy so nothing special is required.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

DaleK

Yeah just normal angle, you may need to us a big pipe or adjustable wrench to tweak it a bit at the joints, we had a spot that was a bit wide at the top so we just put a couple 2" ratchet straps around it over night and that pulled it in enough
Hud-Son Oscar 330
Wallenstein FX110
Echo chainsaws and a whole bunch of tractors

etd66ss

I finally started leveling off an area to build a bed for my Hudson 330



 

Had to get these junkers out of the way first, as they were occupying that space:



 

I needed my D6C to move them, but a mouse over the winter decided to snack on all the under dash wiring:



 

My plan is to set ~8" dia x 5ft utility pole sections into 12" augered holes about 4 ft deep, then set with tamping dry sacrete around the perimeter of each pole. Let them settle for a month or so before laser leveling and topping them off about 3" above grade:



 

However, before I can get to that, my Ford 575D would not cooperate as it was running hot, on not a very hot day. The fan belt kept rolling upside down in the pulleys. The worn fan belt pulley has been an issue for years, but now I am finally forced to take care of it. I can't seem to find the correct pulley online either. Probably have to make a run to the New Holland dealership $$$$$:



 



 



 

And I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone that gas and diesel prices are a killer.  Up where I am, diesel is near $6 a gallon, and the non-ethanol gas I use for my mowers etc is near the same...

 

etd66ss

I stand corrected, just paid $6.29/gallon for diesel. The lockdowns and Monopoly money really screwed us.

Durf700

good score on the mill!   I live about 45 minutes south of Barneveld NY.  I actually went there and looked at mills a few months before covid hit.  they were very polite to deal with.  I ended up coming across a used LT 15 with extra track and power feed and snagged it up.  my nephew did purchase the farm boss from them and took delivery last july.  so far he is happy with it.  I did convince him to add a woodmizer manual log turner to it and he is very happy he did.  we added a 3500 # winch and battery to power the log turner and it works great! 

that would be a must for me if I was in your shoes.  you can also make one like myself and a few others on here have done.  if your milling alone its alot easier to turn the log and clamp it if the winch is there to hold the log into position. 

enjoy your mill! 

etd66ss

Quote from: Durf700 on May 22, 2022, 10:27:02 AM
good score on the mill!   I live about 45 minutes south of Barneveld NY.  I actually went there and looked at mills a few months before covid hit.  they were very polite to deal with.  I ended up coming across a used LT 15 with extra track and power feed and snagged it up.  my nephew did purchase the farm boss from them and took delivery last july.  so far he is happy with it.  I did convince him to add a woodmizer manual log turner to it and he is very happy he did.  we added a 3500 # winch and battery to power the log turner and it works great!  

that would be a must for me if I was in your shoes.  you can also make one like myself and a few others on here have done.  if your milling alone its alot easier to turn the log and clamp it if the winch is there to hold the log into position.  

enjoy your mill!
I will be milling alone, so yeah, a log turner is probably going to be one of the first mods for sure.

Thank You Sponsors!