- Welcome to The Forestry Forum.
How are things going?
Recent posts
#1
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Homemade sawmill
Last post by RAYAR - Today at 04:51:13 PMReally need some good pics to see your set-up to better understand what needs to be done.
#2
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Small timber bent cabin de...
Last post by coryallenstaats - Today at 04:35:34 PMWonderful! I didn't want to come out of the gate with too much detail and over-impose. But, there's lots more detail to offer.
I am located in the Monadnock mountains of NH at about 1200' elevation. Ground snow load is 80 pounds per square foot.
The 5' oc bent spacing is because my wife doesn't want huge hulking timbers above her head every day. There is a local architect, First Day Cottage, who designs homes that owners can build themselves using 3 sandwiched 2x6's as "timbers" for bents spaced at 3' oc. She liked the feel of the space, but I don't like the look of all the 2bys. So, we've reached a compromise
Also, smaller bents means more likely we can raise 'em without needing a large crane. I have a Kubota tractor, but I'm thinking a telescoping handler will likely be needed for this job.
The 13'x60' floorplan is to stay out of the way of the subsequent main-house build. We have a relatively small buildable area between 2 brooks, wetlands and some steep slopes. We have been delayed with litigation due to a particularly obstructive neighbor, so our nest egg has dwindled due to cost of living increases, legal fees, and rent we didn't plan to be spending. We don't want to take out any loans. So we are building what we can afford to do now.
My crew is me, mostly. But, I do have some hearty friends I can call in as needed. I've got most of the tools I'll need; i.e. sawmill, chainsaws, most typical carpentry tools. What I don't have yet are the special ones like mortise-chainsaw, 12" portable planer or any square cut drills.
We'll be felling, milling and stacking green timbers onsite. Building bents on the floor and hoping to raise once all pieces are ready.
Pier and beam using at least 10" sono tubes, 10'oc under every other bent post. At least, that's my current plan. Currently working on the sills and main floor structure so nothing is set in stone yet.
My wife is a P.E. working as a building envelope consultant out of Boston. She has some colleagues in line to run the calcs on our structural frame, once it's designed, and give us a stamp so we don't make the Building Inspector's head pop.
We know it's a challenge and a lot of work, especially since I'm inexperienced. But, we are not ones to shy away from hard work worth doing. Even with this starter cabin, I'd rather build something that could potentially stand 100years than put up something cheap and easy.
I've been looking to connect with some local timber framers to trade my labor for learning the skills.
Let me know if I've missed any other details or if you'd like to see something else from the sketchup model.
Thanks!
Cory
I am located in the Monadnock mountains of NH at about 1200' elevation. Ground snow load is 80 pounds per square foot.
The 5' oc bent spacing is because my wife doesn't want huge hulking timbers above her head every day. There is a local architect, First Day Cottage, who designs homes that owners can build themselves using 3 sandwiched 2x6's as "timbers" for bents spaced at 3' oc. She liked the feel of the space, but I don't like the look of all the 2bys. So, we've reached a compromise
Also, smaller bents means more likely we can raise 'em without needing a large crane. I have a Kubota tractor, but I'm thinking a telescoping handler will likely be needed for this job.
The 13'x60' floorplan is to stay out of the way of the subsequent main-house build. We have a relatively small buildable area between 2 brooks, wetlands and some steep slopes. We have been delayed with litigation due to a particularly obstructive neighbor, so our nest egg has dwindled due to cost of living increases, legal fees, and rent we didn't plan to be spending. We don't want to take out any loans. So we are building what we can afford to do now.
My crew is me, mostly. But, I do have some hearty friends I can call in as needed. I've got most of the tools I'll need; i.e. sawmill, chainsaws, most typical carpentry tools. What I don't have yet are the special ones like mortise-chainsaw, 12" portable planer or any square cut drills.
We'll be felling, milling and stacking green timbers onsite. Building bents on the floor and hoping to raise once all pieces are ready.
Pier and beam using at least 10" sono tubes, 10'oc under every other bent post. At least, that's my current plan. Currently working on the sills and main floor structure so nothing is set in stone yet.
My wife is a P.E. working as a building envelope consultant out of Boston. She has some colleagues in line to run the calcs on our structural frame, once it's designed, and give us a stamp so we don't make the Building Inspector's head pop.
We know it's a challenge and a lot of work, especially since I'm inexperienced. But, we are not ones to shy away from hard work worth doing. Even with this starter cabin, I'd rather build something that could potentially stand 100years than put up something cheap and easy.
I've been looking to connect with some local timber framers to trade my labor for learning the skills.
Let me know if I've missed any other details or if you'd like to see something else from the sketchup model.
Thanks!
Cory
#3
Forestry and Logging / Re: Prentice TMS-1?
Last post by rusticretreater - Today at 04:03:50 PMBased on what I have seen online, that looks just to be the boom off of a much larger Prentice TMS series Log Loader. It doesn't resemble their stationary booms. In my way of looking at old machinery like this, a complete disassembly/rebuild is needed. All the cylinders need to be rebuilt or replaced, the hydro lines as you indicated and the spool valves are also likely to need some work.
Just putting on new hydro lines and running it sounds like it will be fun, exciting and popping leaks at every dry rotted seal, bushing and bearing.
It looks to be a fun project and $350 won't break the bank. I would try to price everything out(new parts vs rebuilt), but that may not be possible without a shop manual or multiple visits to the machinery.
Here is an image of a similar boom. https://www.proxibid.com/lotinformation/39524213/110-prentice-knuckle-boom
Just putting on new hydro lines and running it sounds like it will be fun, exciting and popping leaks at every dry rotted seal, bushing and bearing.
It looks to be a fun project and $350 won't break the bank. I would try to price everything out(new parts vs rebuilt), but that may not be possible without a shop manual or multiple visits to the machinery.
Here is an image of a similar boom. https://www.proxibid.com/lotinformation/39524213/110-prentice-knuckle-boom
#4
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by caveman - Today at 03:38:32 PMWe've seen some different birds over the past few weeks. While hauling a load of slabs to the burn pile a few weeks ago, I saw a peacock sitting on the fence by the driveway. Saturday, after edging a whack of flitches, John noticed a banded carrier pigeon walking around under the edger, not at all afraid of us. It must have been resting. It was gone a short time later.
John recognized it right away as a carrier pigeon since his granddaddy used to have a bunch of them.
John recognized it right away as a carrier pigeon since his granddaddy used to have a bunch of them.
#5
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Did something dumb today.
Last post by Don P - Today at 03:36:03 PMThe other job is right across the street from the bank clock 
.
. #6
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Whatcha Sawin' 2024 ??
Last post by caveman - Today at 03:31:48 PMQuote from: doc henderson on Today at 11:33:23 AMsome may take offense to the CEO comment. not always a complement in some circles!We may elect him CFO.
#7
General Board / Re: The weather 2024
Last post by SwampDonkey - Today at 03:26:07 PM60°F here for the high. A little breezy this afternoon. No black flies here yet. Looks like cooler weekend, 40's and 50's.
#8
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Small timber bent cabin de...
Last post by Den-Den - Today at 02:56:27 PM"More than strong enough" Even without knowing the loads, it looks really strong.
Will you have straight and square timbers? If not, this is a difficult design. Do you have the skills to cut and assemble these bents? If this will be your first timber frame experience, you have created quite a task.
Will you have straight and square timbers? If not, this is a difficult design. Do you have the skills to cut and assemble these bents? If this will be your first timber frame experience, you have created quite a task.
#9
Forestry and Logging / Prentice TMS-1?
Last post by Maple Fox Farm - Today at 02:50:42 PMHey forestry folks,
I'm looking at an old, tired Prentice TMS-1, at least I think that's what it is (see picture of tag), but when I search, "TMS-1" I can't find anything on the web that looks anything like the machine I'm looking at. I also tried TMS-i. The frame is clearly homemade. Can anyone shed some light on what this thing is and what's good and bad about this model? I'm planning on all new hydraulic lines and adding stabilizer arms (possibly manually deployed). Also, I'm just a weekend warrior, I'm not trying to make money with this, I don't care about a bit of slop and yes, I noticed there might be a rust spot or two starting to form under the paint... I'll get right on that before it spreads...
.
I was going to offer the guy $350 (which is in the ball park of scrap in the northeast) because it needs stabilizer arms, the tires are questionable as are the piston rods and, in my opinion, it needs all new hydraulic lines for safe operation. I also noticed pitting on the piston rods but hopefully it's just in the last few inches of the rod. The rods seem to be retracted as far as possible so there's a chance the pitted part won't contact the seals at full retraction and hopefully there's no pitting on the rest of the rods because they look like they have been retracted for a long time.
The good things I can see so far are that it is low to the ground, (it's always a game between high ground clearance and low center of gravity, but I'd rather hang it up on a rock than flip it), floatation tires that, for now, hold air, and a rack and pinion swing arm as opposed to a chain and sprocket. The grapple looks a little over-sized for the unit but I don't think you could save much more than 50-100 lbs. in steel putting a lighter weight one on and that would cost 5 times more than the rest of the whole machine and would only gain you that much in lift capacity.
Also, the guy said it might weigh 5k lbs. I know it's hard to tell from the picture but I'm thinking 2-3k lbs. max;
right? My tractor weighs about 10k lbs.
So, to summarize:
What is it?
What's good an bad about the model in general?
Is $350 too high or too low?
Is it worth the time and money in the first place?
Thank you for your time,
Trevor
I'm looking at an old, tired Prentice TMS-1, at least I think that's what it is (see picture of tag), but when I search, "TMS-1" I can't find anything on the web that looks anything like the machine I'm looking at. I also tried TMS-i. The frame is clearly homemade. Can anyone shed some light on what this thing is and what's good and bad about this model? I'm planning on all new hydraulic lines and adding stabilizer arms (possibly manually deployed). Also, I'm just a weekend warrior, I'm not trying to make money with this, I don't care about a bit of slop and yes, I noticed there might be a rust spot or two starting to form under the paint... I'll get right on that before it spreads...
. I was going to offer the guy $350 (which is in the ball park of scrap in the northeast) because it needs stabilizer arms, the tires are questionable as are the piston rods and, in my opinion, it needs all new hydraulic lines for safe operation. I also noticed pitting on the piston rods but hopefully it's just in the last few inches of the rod. The rods seem to be retracted as far as possible so there's a chance the pitted part won't contact the seals at full retraction and hopefully there's no pitting on the rest of the rods because they look like they have been retracted for a long time.
The good things I can see so far are that it is low to the ground, (it's always a game between high ground clearance and low center of gravity, but I'd rather hang it up on a rock than flip it), floatation tires that, for now, hold air, and a rack and pinion swing arm as opposed to a chain and sprocket. The grapple looks a little over-sized for the unit but I don't think you could save much more than 50-100 lbs. in steel putting a lighter weight one on and that would cost 5 times more than the rest of the whole machine and would only gain you that much in lift capacity.
Also, the guy said it might weigh 5k lbs. I know it's hard to tell from the picture but I'm thinking 2-3k lbs. max;
right? My tractor weighs about 10k lbs.
So, to summarize:
What is it?
What's good an bad about the model in general?
Is $350 too high or too low?
Is it worth the time and money in the first place?
- I'm thinking $500 or more for hydraulic lines if I fab them myself, $500 for stabilizer arms (I have the steel I just need to install them and possibly add hydraulic cylinders, which I have, and a couple hundred to get it trucked home.
Thank you for your time,
Trevor
#10
Chainsaws / Re: Stihl MS260 rebuild - Mete...
Last post by Keepfixin - Today at 02:40:38 PMOpened up the piston ports, cleaned up the casting marks on cylinder, and also smoothed up exhaust port roughness. Piston lost 1.1 grams with modifications. Wasn't going to but watched tinmans saws on YouTube and everything just seemed like it needed some dressing up then :-). Piston work is experimental but exhaust needed done and also the cooling fins needed cleaned up. Seen a lot of saw cylinders with rough castings in the fins and all that does is lead to sawdust and pitch hanging up and accumulating then possibly a saw overheating.
