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pesaventoc, LeeB, ihookem, aigheadish, Guydreads, ladylake, Mooseherder, doc henderson, Jack S, SawyerTed, lurk
Recent posts
#1
General Board / Re: Making it through another ...
Last post by aigheadish - Today at 03:04:23 PMYou've got a bunch of stuff in there, Tom, well done and it looks great! Looks like you may need a mid-trailer table to add a second layer in the future, but I'm proud of you for getting all that in there!
I hope you've got similar weather as us, it's beautiful (though windy) and that the crowd is huge. I'm guessing you've sold a third of your stuff already.
I hope you've got similar weather as us, it's beautiful (though windy) and that the crowd is huge. I'm guessing you've sold a third of your stuff already.
#2
General Woodworking / Re: Watcha Makin'?
Last post by aigheadish - Today at 02:55:06 PMI haven't heard of g flex, I'll look into it, thanks!
I started fresh today and thought about the putter making process a bit more before starting. I went with bubinga again, and I've made huge progress compared to my first attempt.
I wanted to go substantially heavier. The original was 169 grams, and I'm aiming for ~400 grams in the new one. Thusly, I've adjusted the proportion a bit. Below you can see the original size versus the new size, and I'm making the ball grabber cutout shallower (less deep, front to back), giving me more room to jam weight into the front of the putter, you'll see that in a later picture. I aimed for more symmetrical as well but you'll also see that didn't happen. I don't know the right way to really get symmetrical and remove excess wood. My template was a cutout of the shape seen in the drawing, glued to a thin piece of plywood, but I didn't get it cut out perfectly, which didn't help symmetry.
The best thing I thought of, this morning, before I started, was to leave the beginning chunk of wood big and blocky and route out the ball grabbing hole like that. I blocked off the space for the router base to go right where I wanted, about 3/8 deep. That gave me the space to use a pattern trim router bit bearing to guide itself around the open hole. Man, this was a life/time saver. If you recall, on my last attempt, I used the drill press as a router and it was terrifying and not very accurate. This cutout was quite precise and only marginally scary (still getting used to routers!). The mistake I made here, just adding a bit of complication, was that I just eyeballed the template tracing onto the wood. I'd had been much smarter to square up the template to the edge, so it was a little tricky making parallel lines and cuts.
I just got a new, fancy Rikon bandsaw, last weekend, and I put her to some use on this putter head. Man, is it smooth and lovely. I resawed about a half inch off the bottom of the chunk of wood and even though it was maybe 5 or 6 inches thick and the 1/4" blade it still cut through like butter. Already worth the money. I need to spend some more time squaring the bandsaw table to the blade, as the results are off maybe 1/16" from bottom to top of the putter head, but there should be a slight angle to the putter face, so it works out in this instance. I plan to sand out most discrepancies and re-do the face angle anyway. I don't know how anyone has the patience to get good, square tools. My close enough is not good enough.
I've got drum sanding attachments for the drill press, so I've cleaned up the curves to the point we are at below. Next will be the belt sander to square up the bottom and the face. Then I'll drill out a big fat hole in the bottom to chuck about 3/4 of a pound of pennies or something into it for weight. I have fishing weights but I don't think nearly enough.
It's amazing what a previous attempt will teach. I think the original took days to finish and I think this one will be done much, much more safely and only in maybe 10 hours. I could see v3.0 taking 3 hours, knowing what I know now and improving symmetry and the other stuff. Ideally, I'll have this one done by Thursday for my next round of golf.
This is the original and the v2.0.
I started fresh today and thought about the putter making process a bit more before starting. I went with bubinga again, and I've made huge progress compared to my first attempt.
I wanted to go substantially heavier. The original was 169 grams, and I'm aiming for ~400 grams in the new one. Thusly, I've adjusted the proportion a bit. Below you can see the original size versus the new size, and I'm making the ball grabber cutout shallower (less deep, front to back), giving me more room to jam weight into the front of the putter, you'll see that in a later picture. I aimed for more symmetrical as well but you'll also see that didn't happen. I don't know the right way to really get symmetrical and remove excess wood. My template was a cutout of the shape seen in the drawing, glued to a thin piece of plywood, but I didn't get it cut out perfectly, which didn't help symmetry.
The best thing I thought of, this morning, before I started, was to leave the beginning chunk of wood big and blocky and route out the ball grabbing hole like that. I blocked off the space for the router base to go right where I wanted, about 3/8 deep. That gave me the space to use a pattern trim router bit bearing to guide itself around the open hole. Man, this was a life/time saver. If you recall, on my last attempt, I used the drill press as a router and it was terrifying and not very accurate. This cutout was quite precise and only marginally scary (still getting used to routers!). The mistake I made here, just adding a bit of complication, was that I just eyeballed the template tracing onto the wood. I'd had been much smarter to square up the template to the edge, so it was a little tricky making parallel lines and cuts.
I just got a new, fancy Rikon bandsaw, last weekend, and I put her to some use on this putter head. Man, is it smooth and lovely. I resawed about a half inch off the bottom of the chunk of wood and even though it was maybe 5 or 6 inches thick and the 1/4" blade it still cut through like butter. Already worth the money. I need to spend some more time squaring the bandsaw table to the blade, as the results are off maybe 1/16" from bottom to top of the putter head, but there should be a slight angle to the putter face, so it works out in this instance. I plan to sand out most discrepancies and re-do the face angle anyway. I don't know how anyone has the patience to get good, square tools. My close enough is not good enough.
I've got drum sanding attachments for the drill press, so I've cleaned up the curves to the point we are at below. Next will be the belt sander to square up the bottom and the face. Then I'll drill out a big fat hole in the bottom to chuck about 3/4 of a pound of pennies or something into it for weight. I have fishing weights but I don't think nearly enough.
It's amazing what a previous attempt will teach. I think the original took days to finish and I think this one will be done much, much more safely and only in maybe 10 hours. I could see v3.0 taking 3 hours, knowing what I know now and improving symmetry and the other stuff. Ideally, I'll have this one done by Thursday for my next round of golf.
This is the original and the v2.0.
#3
General Board / Re: Making it through another ...
Last post by Old Greenhorn - Today at 01:46:18 PMWell hers I sit in the middle of this show and I have read up on all the recent forum posts and have tim e to post myself. So how do you think it's going? 
#4
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Ride along chair for 2016 ...
Last post by Magicman - Today at 01:33:26 PMQuote from: Peter Drouin on Today at 06:12:54 AMI was going to post a pix of my HOT ROD chairPeter's Seat: LINK
And: LINK
#5
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Ride along chair for 2016 ...
Last post by beenthere - Today at 01:22:37 PMPeter
If the pic is in your gallery, then you can click on it and then scroll down to the next to bottom line. Click that BBcode normal line, it will highlight, and you can copy it and paste it in your post.
Looks like this using a pic from your gallery
If the pic is in your gallery, then you can click on it and then scroll down to the next to bottom line. Click that BBcode normal line, it will highlight, and you can copy it and paste it in your post.
Looks like this using a pic from your gallery
#6
Forestry and Logging / Re: Maintaining the state park...
Last post by beenthere - Today at 01:17:55 PMlivemusic
A new blade for the hackzall should get you back in business.
A new blade for the hackzall should get you back in business.
#7
General Board / Re: Help with a dig pattern.
Last post by Magicman - Today at 01:14:28 PMQuote from: Jeff on Today at 10:30:10 AMSo far, no sign of coming up.OK, I forgets about da Glaciers. PatD's are just coming back from da deer nubbin them off.
#8
General Board / Re: Help with a dig pattern.
Last post by beenthere - Today at 01:12:41 PMI'd like it if the deer loved, or even paid attention, to my hosta plants. I'm trying an experiment to train them by draping a piece of rubber roofing over them with a 5" hole cutout. May work, and may not.
#9
Forestry and Logging / Re: Maintaining the state park...
Last post by barbender - Today at 01:05:38 PMAndries, relating the proper size of Ash pole to a hockey stick is very Canadian of you😂
#10
Sawmills and Milling / Re: OldJarheads Milling Thread...
Last post by OlJarhead - Today at 12:32:48 PMThanks
1. Yes I disconnected the wires to test for continuity.
2. Battery voltage starts around 12.65 off the solar panel and drops to around 12.5 or so.
3. Battery voltage at 11.9-12.x (low) was after starting the engine without the alternator working.
4. When alternator is working (now) the voltage at battery shows 14.79v which is inline with what WM tells me there should be.
The battery is old so it may need to be replaced but at least now, the alternor is charging.
On the light, I agree. It should come on until the alternator starts to charge then go out so that's a little strange and needs further testing.
Cheers!
1. Yes I disconnected the wires to test for continuity.
2. Battery voltage starts around 12.65 off the solar panel and drops to around 12.5 or so.
3. Battery voltage at 11.9-12.x (low) was after starting the engine without the alternator working.
4. When alternator is working (now) the voltage at battery shows 14.79v which is inline with what WM tells me there should be.
The battery is old so it may need to be replaced but at least now, the alternor is charging.
On the light, I agree. It should come on until the alternator starts to charge then go out so that's a little strange and needs further testing.
Cheers!
