Hello everyone,
I just purchased an Echo CS-590 from my local dealer this past week. I've been reading a bit on this forum and it sounds like this saw has a pretty high resistance muffler so many folks have done a "muffler mod" to make it flow better. I also read something about the saw running lean in stock form, I didn't catch if that was lean at certain RPMs or throughout the operating range.
Anyhow, I will be cutting around 4-6 cords per year of firewood. I needs a decent saw that cuts fast enough but more than anything I want a saw that is as bulletproof and reliable as possible. The 5 year warranty and the generally positive comments about the CS-590 definately influenced my decision.
So, back to this lean thing. Is the CS-590, as it is right out of the box, in its most reliable form? The lean comments concern me as I've seen what snowmobile engines do when run too lean. Should I be making any adjustments before I start using this new saw or should I be good to go just like it is? Again, if I sacrifice a little cutting speed for more reliablility I will take that trade!!
Thanks in advance for any shared thoughts.
Chad
Lean or not, no one can tell you in advance! There is a trend to lean out the saws now a days in classic two stroke engines. But how your saw is who knows?
What do I do? I pull the limiters off of all my new saws and readjust, even if I find out they were correct after all.
Further to be honest, I seldom modify my mufflers because, even if I cut a little more than you, I am seldom in such a hurry to finish. And although the cutting speed differences are definately there, cutting the wood is overall the shortest part in firewood processing. Further having a sharp chain and good cutting technique will further influence your speed much more than a faster chainsaw.
7
On any new saw except the auto tune ones (not perfect either from what I've read) pull the caps and tune. On the low turn it in until it hesitates when you pull the throttle then back out until it accelerates good. On the high turn it out until the engine slows down quite a bit when held wide open for a second or 2, then find a big log or block and gradually turn it back in until it cuts the fastest, not revs the fastest. If you get too lean it will bog easy when you push on the saw some, make sure to use a sharp chain. The reason to open the high up quite a bit when you start tuning is the rev limiter will fool you into thinking it's real rich when it's actually lean. My last new Echo CS500 was tuned good when I bought it from a dealer, maybe a good dealer that actually pulled the caps and tuned it. Steve
More "hearsay"! ::)
Not a single failure of the Autotune has ever been proven to happen - it is about people not caring to read the important part of the manual, and a few bad carbs (happens to any saw model now and then - but people tend to blame the AT when the saw has it).
The Echo 590 is the cheapest 60cc alternative (of 3) from a rather substandard brand, so don't expect too much of it! ;)
Opening up the muffler isn't just about improving cutting speed, it also reduces engine temperature, this obviously increases engine life. On the CS-590 I believe simply opening up the deflector will improve flow a bit.
http://youtu.be/pahXpy6Pbms
Most two cycle OPE engines are coming tuned lean from the factory these days. Contrary to what ST said, I've ran a few AT saws that needed a little help as well, mostly on the low speed end. I don't care if it's the carb's fault or not, as the carb is part of the AT system and it still needed work. When it comes to the CS-590 I found mine to be lean on both the high and low side. I removed the limiters and opened both needles about 1/4 of a turn counterclockwise. That's not an exact tuning, but it's in the ballpark if you don't know exactly what you're doing.
http://youtu.be/A6pdV-SxWl0
Quote from: SawTroll on June 01, 2014, 07:14:23 AM
More and "hearsay"! ::)
Not a single failure of the Autotune has ever been proven to hapen - it is about people not caring to read the important part of the manual, and a few bad carbs (happens to any saw model now and then - but people tend to blame the AT when the saw has it).
So your allowed to use hearsay about saws and I'm not. Steve
U work for a swedish saw company ST? :-) let the guy enjoy his new toy. What did your dealer tell u about the carb setting something funbaker?
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on June 01, 2014, 03:34:57 PM
U work for a swedish saw company ST? :-) let the guy enjoy his new toy. What did your dealer tell u about the carb setting something funbaker?
That's just ST being himself, no harm done.
Who cares what the dealer said, they're normally wrong anyway.
Sounds like you trust dealers about as much as me, good ones are few and far apart. Steve
I am just curious what the dealer said if he asked them.
I guess I didn't specifically ask my dealer about carb adjustments when I bought the saw. I was very clear with him when I asked him if the saw was, completely, all ready to go....simply put 50:1 gas and bar oil in and go cut and he said yes. He actually said they would fill it up with gas and bar oil in the back and it would be completely ready to go. I wish I would have asked him if they make any adjustments to the carbs normally or if they just send the saws out with the factory settings. Maybe I'll stop by and have that discussion just to find out. The dealer I purchased the saw from also carries Husquvarna saws, and although he seemed somewhat knowledgable, I'm pretty confident some of you folks know the ins and outs of the CS-590 model better than him. I was more picking his brain on reliability and trying to get a feel from him which saw he thought was better, the Echo CS-590 or the Husky 455 rancher. Don't worry Husky lovers, he did suggest an XP series Husky saw. I'd love one but I'm just a common guy so price always has to be factored in. He did state that they never, or very rarely see any of the Echo saws come back (as in broken or warranty issues). However, he also mentioned they sell many more Husky Rancher series saws than Echos so you'd expect to see more of them come back for repairs.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
A Echo CS590 is miles ahead of a 455 Rancher in everything. Steve
Troll,
A guy buys a new saw and you just have to rain on his parade. The 562xp is a better saw, but it is also 2x the money of a 590tw. If I used a saw all day, everyday, I would want your husky, but if I only had to put up 5 cord a year, I would prefer the Echo because I could put my money elsewhere.
Sometimes the best saw for you, isn't the best saw for me. Please try to respect that.
Dave
Chad, you're saw will likely run okay as is. The issue is long tern durability and performance. A really good dealer will in fact start the saw, warm it up and tune the carb by ear and with a tachometer. This however takes time and knowledge, which many dealers and their employes often lack. It's a good sign your dealer started the saw and made sure it ran.
Have fun with the saw, keep the chain sharp and fuel fresh.
Andyshine,
Thanks for the videos of the muffler mod and the carb tuning limiter cap removal/mod. I'm no carb/engine guru so pardon my simple simon questions but I don't want to botch any tuning I do on my brand new saw. To make sure I understand correctly. Under (or maybe behind is the better word) the limiter caps is an adjustment screw and the cap is Echo's way of simply not letting you get at the adjustment screw, correct? Next, you mention the Lo side adjustment and Hi side adjustment. From watching the video it looks like one adjustment screw is on the air intake side of the saw and the other is forward of that (toward the chain of the saw). which is the lo side adjustment and which is the hi side adjustment? Lastly, the lo side adjustment affects the fuel/air ratio in the low rpm/low throttle position range and the hi adjustment affects the ratio at full throttle (or mid to full throttle)?
When I bought my CS-590 the dealer told me to run 2 tanks of fuel through it and bring it back and he would check it. When I took it back he asked if wanted to come back to the shop to see how he checked it, and of course I did. He first warmed it up for a couple of minutes then pulled out a meter (made by echo) that tells the RPMs when revved up. I can't remember the number we were looking for, but it was right where it was supposed to be. He told me if the saw was too lean the RPMs would show it. He told me I could bring it back as often as I wanted to have it checked. (I figured once a year would be good)
Also while I was there he had me fill out a warranty card. Since I had it checked out, if anything goes wrong it will be covered.
They wouldn't give a 5 year warranty if the saw wasn't a good one or they wouldn't make any money. You've got a great saw, be safe and have fun.
Chainsaws really run only in three modes: idle, off-idle accelerating and WOT. Their carbs' crudity reflect the simplicity of their "operating envelope". The bad things happen, quickly, if mixture is too lean @WOT under load. Not really much leaner than optimum, but POOF!
Looking at the two mixture needles, the L is always closer to the cylinder than the H.
When the H is adjusted right, engine rpm under load will be maxed, as will be the power output, and engine durability. (Also, it's not a bad idea to feed it a bit more oil in the mix too, like 40:1 vice 50:1.)
When H is optimum, engine will 2-stroke at best-power rpm @WOT under load; lighten load a bit and it will start to 4-stroke. Many vids on YouTube on those indicators. You might quiz dealer about his understanding of how to adjust H mixture. If he says "by tach" only, he's a lazy incompetent hack. Such adjustment is only adequate for finding the ballpark, nothing to crow about, though that's common.
There are lots of stories out there about how dealers waltz around warranty coverage. Certainly not only Echo dealers. Not many ethical dealers anyhow, so don't trust them with anything much, certainly not for 5 years.
Quote from: funbaker10 on June 01, 2014, 10:26:37 PM
Andyshine,
Thanks for the videos of the muffler mod and the carb tuning limiter cap removal/mod. I'm no carb/engine guru so pardon my simple simon questions but I don't want to botch any tuning I do on my brand new saw. To make sure I understand correctly. Under (or maybe behind is the better word) the limiter caps is an adjustment screw and the cap is Echo's way of simply not letting you get at the adjustment screw, correct? Next, you mention the Lo side adjustment and Hi side adjustment. From watching the video it looks like one adjustment screw is on the air intake side of the saw and the other is forward of that (toward the chain of the saw). which is the lo side adjustment and which is the hi side adjustment? Lastly, the lo side adjustment affects the fuel/air ratio in the low rpm/low throttle position range and the hi adjustment affects the ratio at full throttle (or mid to full throttle)?
I totally understand not wanting to mess up your new saw. The plastic caps are there to prevent the needles from moving more than one turn. This keeps the saw emissions compliant, which in most cases means too lean. Many manufactures use this method to prevent the needles from turning 360. The H screw is one closest to the air filter, the one closest to the intake boot is the L screw. The black grommet with the screwdriver holes, is also marked H, L and LA.
These carbs work correctly in two positions, idle and full throttle, nothing in between. The low speed screw effects the mixture at idle, and provides fuel for a smooth and quick transition from idle to full throttle. Yes the High screw provides the bulk of fuel at full throttle. However both needles provide fuel at both idle and full throttle to some extent. So when you make a radical change to one needle, the other will need adjustment as well. The LA screw simply adjusts the throttle position. Changes in air densities effects how much fuel the saw will require as well.
If you decide to remove the caps, I can walk you the tuning process. Make sure you read the manual that came with the saw, it has good information for someone new to chainsaws.
It sure is a bit frustrating that a the saws can't leave the factory in the properly tuned condiiton. If anything, you would think the factory would error on the side of tuning them conservatively rich as opposed to cutting edge (or actually too) lean. The only two reasons I could see doing that would be 1) environmental regs/emmissions requirements require the cutting edge lean setting, or 2) they would be happy if your saw scores a piston/cylinder after a few years (preferably soon after warranty expires) so you are forced to buy a new saw! If it's enviromental regs driven, how silly as burning down and replacing saws due to excessively lean conditions is anything but environmentally friendly (think of all the embedded energy/pollution that already went into manufacturing the saw). Also, it really makes you wonder how safe your autotune saw is. Is there any adjustment you can make to the autotune setting to make it conservatively safe (rich) vs lean? Any reason to believe the autotune system doesn't target the same cutting edge lean condition the standard saws seem to come with? Is there any manual adjustment a person can make to make the autotune more conservative instead of cutting edge lean?
It sure sounds like I need to tear into my saw a bit to, at a minimum, get the limiter caps off and ensure the tuning is good.
Thanks for all the feedback thus far. Happy cutting.
Chad
It's all about emissions. The problem isn't the tuning from the factory, that's a guessing game really. You see it's impossible to tune the carb at the factory for the environment the saw will be used in. Air densities constantly change do to temperature fluctuations or elevation. The issue is you have to delete the limiters on the needles before you can properly tune the carb. Back in the day all you needed to tune the engine was a small screwdriver. Learning how to tune your handheld equipment is a must IMHO.
Most AT saws burn cleaner to begin with, do to advancements in 2 cycle engine design. Plus the tune will always be spot on, never too rich or lean. The AT saws I've ran, did very well.
Quote1) environmental regs/emmissions requirements require the cutting edge lean setting
And per the announcements yesterday, it is about to get worse.
Until EPA realizes (which they won't) that they are the cause of our economy going further into the dumps, we will spiral down further and faster. IMO
Cutting emmisions in half but burning twice as much, does little to nothing to reduce carbon footprint. IMO
Weather or not we like anything the EPA does, historically the economy grows when new environmental laws are passed. Anytime you push new technology and innovation, you put people to work. At the same time the big companies hate this because they have to invest in R&D and hire more people. Which in reality is a good thing overall, but they don't to see that. We need to get rid of the lobbyists that push special interests like farm subsidies, AKA Ethanol, yet attack the little guys, like ope manufactures instead.
Anyway let's get back on tract here. Deleting the limiters is very easy on the 590. Maybe I'll make a video on tuning.
Well said Andy, thanks.
Moved to general thread. Didn't want to highjack this one.
Made a quick video on carb tuning. I'll edit tonight and put the video on YouTube, it will take some time so please be patient.
I would really love to see a good video on what your talking about.
Thanks in advance!!
Well here's the video I made last evening. I tried my best to explain how to properly set the low and high speed carb circuits. The first video doesn't really depict how to tune the H speed circuit in the wood, so I'll attach an older video I made depicting that. When tuning the high, you want to hear slight 4 stroking, or rough sound under light load, than under load that sound should clear up and smooth out. I'm not the best at explaining my knowledge, so any and all questions are welcome, I'll do my best to answer them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjb9_UIgSdY&list=UUDzYN6LbndM64YHQp_JOb4Q&feature=share
http://youtu.be/ulY5sU4axFQ
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.
Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.
Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?
Four stroking is the result of the two cycle engine getting too much fuel, and not igniting or completely burning all of the fuel each cycle. When you put the engine under load, the combustion temperature goes up and the fuel gets burned properly each cycle. We want to hear a little four cycling without load or light load. When milling or running a new saw, you want to hear more four cycling than normal.
Thanks for the video. Did you do a MM before you tuned the cs-590?
Quote from: jargo432 on June 05, 2014, 12:00:53 AM
Thanks for the video. Did you do a MM before you tuned the cs-590?
I started the saw and ran before I did a MM, just to make sure it was good to go. Before I port a saw I like to run at least a tank of fuel through it, again just to make sure it doesn't have any issues. The saw in the video has some time on it, I'm quite impressed with how it runs. The CS-590 is the best value on the market right now. At one time you could pick up a Dolmar 7900 for around $550, now that was a bargain.
I have one of the $550 Dolmar 7900 saws. Steve
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.
Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?
On YouTube search "2-stroke tuning" "2-stroking" or "4-stroking". You get the idea. Audio will communicate it much better than description, like "singing" vs "asthmatic".
Quote from: CTYank on June 05, 2014, 06:54:56 AM
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.
Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?
On YouTube search "2-stroke tuning" "2-stroking" or "4-stroking". You get the idea. Audio will communicate it much better than description, like "singing" vs "asthmatic".
Correct. In the video I posted you can hear the difference quite easily.
Thanks again for the video. I have one more question ???
You said that you lean it out on the low side. I'm confused, doesn't that rob it of gas/lubricant when it's at idle?
Quote from: jargo432 on June 06, 2014, 01:53:14 AM
Thanks again for the video. I have one more question ???
You said that you lean it out on the low side. I'm confused, doesn't that rob it of gas/lubricant when it's at idle?
When you set the low, you lean the needle it out until the saw almost stalls, then you back it out 1/4 of a turn and check for proper acceleration. If there is any hesitation back the needle out another 1/4 of a turn and repeat. Running the saw too lean for a little while doesn't hurt anything whatsoever, especially at idle. When you achieve quick acceleration without any hesitation, the engine is now getting enough fuel at idle. If the low is set too lean, acceleration will not be quick and smooth.
I hope my answer helps. Again feel free to ask more questions if needed.
I thought I'd start off by adjusting my old Poulan 3314 for practice before I went at the CS-590. I found out I need a splined adjustment tool. Well, I've been looking for the last 30 minutes online and all I can find is one made for the Poulan weedeater. Part #530035560.
Does anyone know if this is the same one used for the Poulan 3314 or where I can get one for my saw?
Thanks
Best place to find them is on Ebay. The one for your saw is the splined driver and it's universal, so you don't have to buy the one from Poulan. I myself use a dermal with a small cutting wheel, to cut a slot in the needles, so you can use a regular carb screwdriver.
Question for those that have bought a 590 and used it for awhile. For the money would you buy it again. I have been struggling with my 029 cutting some bigger hardmaple etc and it is taking me a long time just to get the tree on the ground.
How do you think the 590 would handle a 24" bar with a skip tooth chain. Last maple I cut was 36" at the butt and I have trouble keeping the saw cut the same around on the back cuts resulting in having to keep sawing more than I should. Also the saw is pulling to one side slightly and that makes it even harder to keep on the same plane. It took me 2.25 tanks of gas just to get the tree on the ground.
I could only lay it one way with it's lean and not damage surrounding younger trees I want to save. Right across the skid trail so now a lot of limbing and brush moving. Course that has nothing to do with the saw. But with that much limbing it sure feels good to pick up my little 170 and cut the small stuff.
If your saw is pulling to one side, you've got a chain sharpening problem and/or a worn bar. Check to see if your bar rails need truing up and deburring, and try a brand new chain. If that solves the problem, you can go back and resharpen the original chain and see if you can get it to cut straight.
Agree with John.
Not the saw, but appears it is a chain filing problem, a bar problem, and possibly even an operator problem.
;)
Does not sound like a different saw brand or model will help.
Further the 290 is very choked at the exhaust compared to the orignal 029 muffler. So it might help to reopen the exhaust to original size (= about the size of the cylinder opening, donot exeed) and retune the carb.
7
Thanks guys. I'm just thinking a few more CC's of power plus a saw that is not 14 years old. Put a new bar on it and helped just a little. Could be the angles I am sharpening to. Use a Harbor Freight grinder after about every three filings or a good rocking. I know it is not that accurate but the chains will cut like a son of a gun after sharpening with it.
BTW the saw is an 029. And people may laugh when I say I pull my 170 out to do light limbing but if I use it as much as can for that it gives me a little more time in the evening before my arms feel like they are going to revolt on me.
A CS590 will have a LOT more power than a 029 or MS290, not even close. Steve
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 08, 2014, 01:37:06 PM
Could be the angles I am sharpening to. Use a Harbor Freight grinder after about every three filings or a good rocking. I know it is not that accurate but the chains will cut like a son of a gun after sharpening with it.
You may be running in to one of the limitations on your Harbor Freight grinder. I don't use a grinder, but from my reading here and on some other sites, it seems some of the less expensive grinders are not very rigid, and end up sharpening the left handed cutters slightly differently than the right handed ones. They can also be more prone to flexing as they grind, causing other variations. The chain will be sharp, but one side can end up different from the other. If it's just a couple of individual teeth that are affected, you my never notice. If it's one whole side, you might see the problem you describe.
With care and special attention, you can get good results with a less expensive grinder, it just takes a bit more work and finesse. Somewhere in my reading, I saw something about someone modifying a cheap grinder with shims or washers to take out some of this slop, but I can't remember the details. Perhaps someone else on her remembers...
Yes I read the article I think you are refering to. I had to do with the clamp to tighten when you come down to sharpen chain. The grinder has some flex just because the way it is made. CHEAP. But for general firewood I think it would be ok. Some of the crookedness is operator error I'm sure. Then combined with the grinder could multiply it. Different angles mean different down pressure. Need to pick-up a new chain and try.
Just think I need a little more umph when cutting a 36" hard maple than the 029 can provide in a reasonable time. Money is tight but so is time. Would love to have an autotune saw but can't swing it now.
luvmexfood Understand either this is an operator problem or your chains aren't up to par. If you focus your time and effort on learning how to properly sharpen a chain, your efficiency will drastically improve. People when it comes to cutting, a proper chain is more important than the saw itself. Now get that through your thick heads!! lol.
For sure run sharp chains that cut straight but with sharp chains that cut straight a Echo Cs590 will cut way faster than a 029 or Ms290 as they don't have very good power for a 56cc saw. The 029 was better due to a more open muffler but the MS290 would be the same with a opened up muff. My 50cc Echo saws outcut good running Stihl 029 or MS290 saws by quite a bit so the CS590 should be WAY ahead in cutting speed. Steve
I also am looking at the CS-590 for a second saw with a little more power and will be following this thread to see users opinions of it. Luvmexfood I have a MS-290 that seemed a little underpowered and I replaced the bar and chain with the Baileys narrow kerf set and it helped a lot for firewood cutting.
Guess thats the main gist of my question. Would you buy it again.
Was in a nearby Echo dealer, the only one sort of close, and he only had one Echo saw on the shelf. Course I guess it's a slow time for chainsaw sell and he normally stocks nothing larger than the 590.
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 08, 2014, 08:27:50 PM
Guess thats the main gist of my question. Would you buy it again.
Was in a nearby Echo dealer, the only one sort of close, and he only had one Echo saw on the shelf. Course I guess it's a slow time for chainsaw sell and he normally stocks nothing larger than the 590.
The 590 is an awesome saw at an even better price. I didn't buy my 590 to really keep it, I just wanted to see what it's all about, as I have 20 or so other saws anyway. After using it some, I'm actually going to keep it.
If you guys are interested, I've been thinking about making a quick video explaining some very basic chain sharpening methods for firewood cutters.
If you guys are interested, I've been thinking about making a quick video explaining some very basic chain sharpening methods for firewood cutters.
That sounds good to me. And would help out alot of other members that have questions on how to file and not to file a chain. It's not hard to do,just takes practice and someone really has to show you how to do it.
Well, I finally got a chance to do some cutting with my Echo 590 I purchased back in June. I had started it a couple times but yesterday was the first time I cut with it. I had been a bit paranoid about the potentially lean carb settings coming from the factory that several folks had mentioned.
So first, to clarify a couple things. Andyshine77 had a video showing how to remove the carb adjustment limiter caps. Is my understanding correct that the screw was used simply to thread into the plastic limiter as a means to grab onto and pull out the limiter? That's what I did and then with a utility knife I cut off the two tabs on each limiter and pushed the plastic limiter back over the adjustment screw. That said, is there any reason to put the red plastic limiter cap back on or can a guy simply leave it off for easy access to the adjustment screw? I then adjusted the high adjustment a good 1/4 turn out (counterclockwise...I hope). The saw fired up nicely, idled nice, and I went out and did my cutting. I'm not too confident in my ability to hear when it's too rich or just right though. When I squeeze it wide open at no load (bar/chain in the air) how do I know if it is hitting the rev limiter or "4 stroking"?
The saw cut great. The only saw I've got much experience with beside this one is an old 1970 Homelite my dad had. That was a pretty small saw. The difference, as expected, was night and day. Plenty of power for me and it idled great when set down to move stuff in prep for next cut.
When I finished I adjusted the high out another 1/4 turn and will see how that works next time, hopefully tomorrow. Is there any big downside to running too rich? Obviously spot on is best but better too rich than too lean.
Happy cutting.
Err on the side of slightly too rich. That runs both slightly cooler and has a little more oil in the system, so nothing bad happens.
Ian
Quote from: ladylake on June 08, 2014, 01:57:27 PM
A CS590 will have a LOT more power than a 029 or MS290, not even close. Steve
CS590 specs are 3.0 kW/4.1 hp, and then the hp of the 029/290 are known to be "weak", because of a less than efficient "power-band".....
Given that you're not positive about how well it is running and whether it is "4 stroking" or not an easy way to check your settings is to pull and look at the spark plug. If it's grey/white then it's too lean and needs more fuel. If it's black or carboned or shows wet fuel then it's too rich. And lastly, if (hopefully) all is well the plug will be a nice brown color. If so you're good to go. And you are correct about counterclockwise being more rich, clockwise is more lean. Glad you like the new saw. :)
The good thing about the 590 and some other saws. Is the fact the carb is designed to provide somewhere in the neighborhood of 80% of the required fuel, even with the high needle seated , so it's unlikely that your saw is tuned too lean. I have a carb tuning video which explains what to listen for. And yes you can get an idea of the tune by looking at the plug, but that's not an exact science, and has many variables.
Yes, it certainly not precise by any means. But for the average person trying to get it right but not sure they know what they're looking or listening for its a good way to know where you are at...roughly. ::) There are variables regardless of your technique to get it set though. To hear 4 stroking for yourself check out Madsen's site.
http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm
Thanks to everyone for all the advice/tips. I will do some heavy cutting, get it good and warmed up, shut it down and pull the plug next time I take the saw out. Does anyone know for sure whether the CS590 has a rev limiter? Do most or any chainsaws have rev limiters? I also plan on turning the high screw out (CCW) a bit more to see if what I'm hearing (pulsing for lack of a better term) at WOT/no load gets more pronounced. If there is no rev limiter then what I'm hearing must be "four stroking". If there is a rev limiter then I wouldn't expect the pulsing sound to change much.
Definitely loving the saw so far though. If it keeps running like it is for many years to come I will be all smiles.
As far as I know all modern saws are rev limited, so it is often better to err on the rich side of the carb settings. But the vid of Andyshine77 is a good start.
Good luck!
7
Quote from: 7sleeper on September 14, 2014, 03:25:57 AM
As far as I know all modern saws are rev limited, so it is often better to err on the rich side of the carb settings. But the vid of Andyshine77 is a good start.
Good luck!
7
A lot of them surely have, but I believe
all is an exaggregation - but then what is
modern? :)