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Anyone have trouble with canterlever head

Started by tazz, October 17, 2011, 08:55:09 PM

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timbuck2

I could echo Tazz's question, have had a Kasco 4 post for 20yrs+ and not hardly any maintenence, saws accurate, but is hand turn and slow 16hp.   Want to upgrade to a  much larger WM or TK.   So my question is how much time do you WM guys put in keeping your mill adjusted etc.?  (TK too since I never ran one)

wwsjr

I spent about 1 hr at 50 hrs operation, maybe 2 1/2 hrs at 250 hrs unless I find a big problem on my WM LT40 Super with remote,debarker, lubemizer. I have mill factory aligned by WM tech on site once a year. If I stick to the 50 hr and 250 hr schedule I seldom make any adjustments in between. I use the mill manual maintenance list with recommended tasks on each interval.

Willie
Retired US Army, Full Time Sawyer since 2001. 2013 LT40HD Super with 25HP 3 Phase, Command Control with Accuset2. ED26 WM Edger, Ford 3930 w/FEL, Prentice Log Loader. Stihl 311, 170 & Logrite Canthooks. WM Million BF Club Member.

Bibbyman

I check the adjustments when I change out the blade guide rollers or head cam bearings.  Other than that, I just twink it now and then when I see something not right.

We were sawing the other day and Mary complained that some boards were coming out a little thinner on one side.  I knew they were and knew why but it wasn't enough to cause a problem sawing 4/4 flooring lumber.  But, since she mentioned it,  I got out my tools and checked the idle side blade guide assembly.  I knew it was pointing the blade down a little.  It gets knocked pretty hard at times running into knots and such on the off side. 

After I made the adjustment, it seemed I could saw a bit faster.  I checked a couple of boards coming off and the resulting cant and they were right on. 

This was just a slight adjustment to the guide roller assembly.  I don't remember the last time I actually had to align anything on the head.  We have over 5,000 hours on this mill.





Here is a picture of how I check the blade level.  This is before adjusting.





This is after adjusting.


Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Dave Shepard

Is that in the Tips and Tricks thread Bibby? That's way easier than moving the head back and forth to measure the ends of the LTBGAT
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Bibbyman

Quote from: Dave Shepard on October 18, 2011, 05:57:32 PM
Is that in the Tips and Tricks thread Bibby? That's way easier than moving the head back and forth to measure the ends of the LTBGAT

Here is a link to that topic..

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,19439.0.html
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

timbuck2

ok, Bibbyman, what ya got there?   A straight edge, and I'm guessing, a little clip to the blade, against the level?   My Kasco goes like this, if the bed is level,( I do it once a year with a transit)  then I just measure blade to bed, both sides.  Adjust guides to fit.   Nice concept tho, I'm trying to figure out if that would help me.  But then again I don't have an accuracy problem, just a slow as death problem, hahahaha.   Serious about up-grade tho' big WM or TK is the ?   Oh yeah I don't move the mill.

Bibbyman

This tool helps check the blade to see if its running level - not how far the blade is above the bed.  For that I just park the head where the blade is over a bunk and measure one side next to the guide and then the other side.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

GF

I built a small jig to hold a straightedge against the blade to level it with the sawmill bed.  Its a piece of square tubing with one of the four side cut out.   I then drilled a hole on top welded a nut over the hole and then inserted a bolt.  Next I cut two slots on each side for the straight edge to slide through.   When you tighten the bolt it will tighten the blade flat against the straightedge.

GF


5quarter

Thats a pretty dull blade there in the illustration...might be time to put on a new one. :D :D

exellent idea, by the way.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

GF

Didnt want to spend the time to draw the teeth.   Actually the blade is spinning so fast you cant see the teeth :)

Brucer

I don't compete on price, I compete on quality. Square timbers, no wane, no wavy surfaces. The cantilever head hasn't given me any problem.

I spend and hour every 50 hours of operation greasing things and checking for loose bolts. Half a day every 100 hours greasing, changing oil & filters, belt tensions, etc. At the start of every season I check the alignment and adjust as needed.

At 1800 hours I had to change a guide roller bearing so I did the complete alignment procedure on the mill. Took me a day, but it was the first time I'd done it.

Look after your mill and it will look after you.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

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