first upgrade needed on my woodmizer LT 35 Hydraulic

Durf700 · June 07, 2020, 08:38:52 PM

I guess I spoiled my self with the LT 15 and my leveling jacks I put on it.. because I didn't enjoy setting up the LT 35 with the standard drop leg jacks and that handle that it comes with to pry up on the legs. you pretty much need a third hand on a few of the legs to get them up when they have some side pressure on them.

so today I ordered 1 direct weld jack as a test unit to see if I can modify it shorter and also have it fit in the square tubes that are already on the mill.. If I fail then I will have to bite the bullet and buy them from woodmizer. I didn't pay much attention to the jacks and how they work ... my bad... but I will definitely be coming up with a much easier option like others have done on here as soon as the test jack arrives!

other than that the hydraulics are awesome and the mill ran excellent!!!! it was amazing how quick you can manipulate the logs and also get used to the controls.

samandothers · June 07, 2020, 08:42:54 PM

That is a sharp looking mill. It is in great shape. You did great on that. I look forward to your modifications and adventures.

Southside · June 07, 2020, 08:49:58 PM

@Bandmill Bandit has a post about the quick legs he built, came out very nice and were quite affordable. Worth looking at his setup.

WV Sawmiller · June 07, 2020, 09:28:00 PM

I am embarrassed to admit it but Durf is right. :( The two drive side jacks are awkward to reach and very difficult to raise with much weight on them. I carry an old car bumper jack and use it on occasion for that purpose. Also the blank spot (where there is no pin hole drilled) especially on the front jack is not the world's greatest design. Invariably I unhook and find the jack is a little low and there is no hole for the handle to jack it up. I have to go to the second/idler side jack and lift the front of the mill there till the front is high enough to access the pin hole. I guess I could either drill another hole in this "dead spot" or buy the FAOs but so far I just limp along and live with the current design.

Southside · June 07, 2020, 09:58:52 PM

Run the head to the opposite end before you lower a jack. I do it even with my FAO's on the 70, makes it a lot easier.

Magicman · June 07, 2020, 10:01:38 PM

So you either add a leveling board(s) or dig a hole. Do a neat job and you can replace the sod when you are ready to leave. I sawed for over 10 years with the original outriggers.

YellowHammer · June 07, 2020, 10:25:19 PM

Quote from: Southside on June 07, 2020, 09:58:52 PM
Run the head to the opposite end before you lower a jack. I do it even with my FAO's on the 70, makes it a lot easier.

Just make DanG sure you pin or chain the head, or get it all the way to rest against the stop. Or it can get to rolling and get real ugly, real fast.

Even though I'm stationary, I still have to relevel and shift as needed. After having an LT40 with the pin jacks, and the LT70 with FAO's, there is a big improvement. If I was going to build or retrofit, I probably wouldn't worry about the two outboard jacks by the loader arms.

Southside · June 07, 2020, 11:16:38 PM

Valid point, I run it all the way to one end or the other then set the opposite legs. Usually go back and forth once or twice to get it right. As you said - even stationary, which I pretty much am now too, it becomes necessary now and then to readjust things.

GAB · June 08, 2020, 08:21:42 AM

The shingles I sawed have a 7/16" taper in ~21'' of length. For leg adjustments I place two under legs that are at or above ground level and slide them together as need to tighten the legs when setting up the mill. This has saved me time on numerous occasions.
GAB

jb616 · June 08, 2020, 11:28:40 AM

I put a trailer jack near the front of my LT 30 on the diagonal cross bar. . I have the front low and drop the back legs. Then I jack it up to about level and drop the fronts....This way I don't have to mess with the bar trying to "jack" up the legs. When I am done, i jack up the front to release the pressure and slide the legs up, lower it until pressure is off the back and slide those up as well. Done.

jeepcj779 · June 09, 2020, 01:45:14 PM

Are the fine adjust outriggers even available from Wood-Mizer for the LT-35? They are not available as an option when configuring a new LT-35 on their web site.

Chuck White · June 09, 2020, 03:14:40 PM

I have a friend nearby with an LT35HDG25 and he has FAO's on it.

He ordered them just last year!

Bandmill Bandit · June 09, 2020, 03:18:10 PM

Doing the FAOs the way I did the second time is pretty simple and alot cheaper. It all in the usefull sawmill mods thread. I wouldn't want a mill with out them.

Durf700 · June 09, 2020, 04:13:07 PM

the test jack arrived and fits inside the sleeves that hold the current jacks! 2.5" so I am ordering 5 more and gong to drill 2 holes like you did. one hole for transport and one to drop down the jacks so I dont have to cut them down. I do want to make it so the pin goes in all the way when in use. I think I just need to crank the jack down more and the pin should just pop in all the way as long as I dont use the extra leg extension to much.

I will post some pics when they come in and I get them done.

thanks for the help. the sawmill mods thread was a lot of help!

Bandmill Bandit · June 09, 2020, 10:31:38 PM

Yes Durf that is what I did for the operation hole. I made sure it was up where the jack foot piece would be below the hole enough to let the pin seat properly. So far has worked very well.

Durf700 · June 09, 2020, 11:03:18 PM

I think I will grab some grade 8 washers when I buy the nuts to weld onto the top of the jack so I can use my drill to raise and lower them. I think there is room to weld washers on the front of the jack where the holes are drilled in the jack to act as reinforcement and also a little more for the pin to grab onto.

the jacks I bought have a grease fitting about 2 inches down from the top.. I have to remove it though. will have to put a small screw in the hole or something maybe a piece of gorilla tape so I can access it when I need to grease the jacks.

If anyone else is wanting to do this.. the best deal I found on jacks was on amazon with free shipping:
CURT 28570 Direct-Weld Heavy-Duty Trailer Jack, 8,000 lbs, 15-1/4 Inches Vertical Travel

other than the nuts and washers and probably 3 hours of time.. total should be 420.00 for the jacks with shipping and tax plus maybe 5.00 bucks for nuts and washers. so for 425 I will have a much easier way to set up the mill when I'm on my own. way better than the quote I got yesterday from Woodmizer... 1,600 dollars with tax!

Bandmill Bandit · June 10, 2020, 08:39:38 AM

I just used the handles that came with the jacks except for the very front one as my tool box won't allow the handle to work there. Took that handle off and the ordered jack nuts from the manufacturer and drilled them and then used a split pin so I can disasemble as required when required.

Also with just nuts and no way to lock the jack position they will move during operation. On my front one I use a 1/4 pin with a small tab welded on the top of the jack to lock it in place. pin goes through the split pin into the tab on the jack.

I tried the drill thing but mostly waste of time and I have a good drill.

Still have to move head back and forth. the handles work better and quicker than fiddling with the drill.

I don't recomend the washer idea. Just caused problems and cost me an extra jack.

I ordered my jacks direct from the factory and got them wholesale. All 6 for $350 CDN shipped. 6000lb rating. Top drive. Info is all in the mods thread.

Durf700 · June 10, 2020, 12:32:39 PM

Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on June 10, 2020, 08:39:38 AM
I just used the handles that came with the jacks except for the very front one as my tool box won't allow the handle to work there. Took that handle off and the ordered jack nuts from the manufacturer and drilled them and then used a split pin so I can disasemble as required when required.

Also with just nuts and no way to lock the jack position they will move during operation. On my front one I use a 1/4 pin with a small tab welded on the top of the jack to lock it in place. pin goes through the split pin into the tab on the jack.

I tried the drill thing but mostly waste of time and I have a good drill.

Still have to move head back and forth. the handles work better and quicker than fiddling with the drill.

I don't recomend the washer idea. Just caused problems and cost me an extra jack.

I ordered my jacks direct from the factory and got them wholesale. All 6 for $350 CDN shipped. 6000lb rating. Top drive. Info is all in the mods thread.

so you tried to weld a washer to the jack where you drilled the holes and it didnt work out?
if so good to know.

Rhodemont · June 10, 2020, 01:35:06 PM

I have only moved my mill a couple times since it arrived. The jacks, particularly along the head feed side are awkward to work. The first couple set ups went just fine after figuring how to hold them in place to insert the pry rod. This last time while reaching down to hold one of them it was like playing twister and I fell onto the mill bed. Remember thinking while scrambling to get up there must be a better way. (Should have posted this in "Did a dumb thing today" back when it happen.

Bandmill Bandit · June 11, 2020, 12:26:43 AM

Druff on the washer thing; yes the washer made it just tight enough that the jack would bind it you didn't hold tongue just right and some times you had make sure you fly was properly closed. Just too finicky! The quality of the steel for a 6000lb jack is sufficient to deal with that potential problem and your jacks are 8000lb rated.

If you look at the sawmill mogs thread and look at my 2 middle jack install (the last ones idid for a reason) you will see how i built them out. DO NOT ATTEMPT to do those 2 jacks WITH OUT that build on those 2 jacks. It changes the tipping point and weight to tip the mill by almost 40%.

I had an engineer friend do a CADD mock up for me cause she saw what I was going to do. She told me NOT to proceed till she could run the numbers and show me the mock up. When she showed me animation of the jacks with and with out that angle piece on those 2 jacks I was shocked. It was scary how much difference it makes.

We added 3/4" to the foot plate over what Woodmizer uses just because it was a cheap add and increased the stability by about 10% more and by just adding the angle and extra to the new foot plate to the existing plate that actually added stability as well. Don't remember the numbers on that but it was like 2.5 or 3%

This pic shows my rear jack. You can see how the handle keeps the jack from turning and gives you 3 x 1/4 turn positions to drop the handle to lock the jack in place.

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Durf700 · June 11, 2020, 09:45:46 AM

I wonder if I can cut off the bottom of the factory woodmizer jacks and weld it to the new jack leg to maintain the same angle.. I will have to check it out tomorrow.

thanks for the heads up.. I was just gonna run the new jacks straight down and not worry about that offset.

WV Sawmiller · June 11, 2020, 09:57:55 AM

Be sure to check the operator's manual regarding warnings about welding on the mill. You don't want to do anything to damage the electronics or void the warranty. JAFR.

Durf700 · June 11, 2020, 10:55:45 AM

I can remove the jacks and do the welding off the mill. if you jack it up far enough you can just slide the stock outriggers out the bottom.

Bandmill Bandit · June 11, 2020, 11:33:32 AM

Quote from: Durf700 on June 11, 2020, 09:45:46 AM
I wonder if I can cut off the bottom of the factory woodmizer jacks and weld it to the new jack leg to maintain the same angle.. I will have to check it out tomorrow.

thanks for the heads up.. I was just gonna run the new jacks straight down and not worry about that offset.

It is tempting to use jacks as is, but DONT! Woodmizer know what they are doing!

The angle on those offset feet is 45°. Buy a 6 inch construction triangular square at the lumber yard! You need one in you mill tool box anyway.
It is easier to build em from scratch.

The piece on the table is the new top sleeve of these 2 jacks. Estimated jack capacity after the mods for them is 10,000lbs.

Note the angle cut on the sleeve. It is important to get the jack raised up all the way for transport

FYI
I actually replaced the entire top part of the jack sleeve with category III hitch grade receiver tube. The angle piece is 45° and was 6.25" long if I remember right. I can measure it for you if you like.

YES! I do tend to "over kill" BUT there is no kill, like over kill! I have enough receiver tubing to rebuild the outer sleeve on all my jacks but haven't done it so far. Some day I'll get an itch to do some fab work when I'm bored and the jacks will all get new outer sleeve.

Just cause I can! 8) And I do like the fit better as well. Necessary? NO! Just a project to get me out of the house (wife's hair) in the winter time.

There are only 4 bolts holding each jack mount in place. REMOVE THE ENTIRE mount because it is the safe way to do it and it is easier anyway.

donbj · June 11, 2020, 09:58:17 PM

Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on June 11, 2020, 11:33:32 AMIt is tempting to use jacks as is, but DONT! Woodmizer know what they are doing! The angle on those offset feet is 45°. Buy a 6 inch construction triangular square at the lumber yard! You need one in you mill tool box anyway. It is easier to build em from scratch.

I have the old style straight out riggers. I don't understand what this offset is for. Can you enlighten me?